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About matvic

  • Birthday 11/01/1971

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  • Full name
    Matt Vickery

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    North Wales

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Getting there Builder

Getting there Builder (3/5)



  1. I was happy at that price, as it was a non-runner.
  2. I know... Tried fuel, spark, air, timing, compression....all ok. I am no mechanic and haven't got time to figure it out.
  3. It's an auction on eBay, just highlighting it here, not selling here. Happy to put it in another forum if needed.
  4. Listing on eBay at http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252475097953 Starting price on eBay at £1995
  5. Yep, got 14V. I think there is a new problem now. It appears a the spark plugs are all sparking every time with a strong spark on the one it is supposed to spark. Hard to describe - spark, spark, SPARK, spark, spark, spark, SPARK, spark - that would be no3 over 4 revolutions. Won't start at all. I assume the current is spreading (don't know how) so there is not enough in the strong spark. All help appreciated.
  6. Put the old coil on and am getting different voltages! New Coil (5.6ohms) = 12v ignition on, 9v whilst starting, 6v at tickover, 9v at 3000rpm Old coil (1.6ohms) = 12v ignition on, 10v whilst starting, 12v at tickover, 12v at 3000rpm. Neither will start it from cold, but both will start it hot. Looked at Haynes and the two leads are for 1.3 and 1.6, I had a 1.6, changed the engine, but nothing else. However, it has worked fine for the last two years.
  7. OK, recharged the battery overnight and ran a 12v to the +ve coil and it dropped about 4v during (15v - 11v), but wouldn't start, I then used the rag method to start it, and the coil is at 9v at 3000rpm. I am now thinking I need a ballast coil. I checked the resistance of the new coil, about 5 ohms. The old coil I took off is 1.6 ohms. Again does this indicate a ballast coil? What is the effect of having a non ballast coil if I should have a ballast one? The two wires from the +ve coil are green and green with a black stripe. Ignition is a Bosch ford electronic dizzy from a Sierra, but the engine is a RS2000 (1973) Thanks for your help, I am learning loads
  8. Thanks for this, I have tested and it drops to 9v whilst still trying to start. I thought I had an non-ballast system and can't see a ballast resistor. I think I have put a non-ballast coil in. There is something on the wire to the +ve of the coil, but I was told it was a capacitor to smooth the signal to reduce any interference for radios etc. Currently I have removed this and wired directly to the coil. There are two wires going to the +ve of the coil...implying ballast? Have just tested again, with the ignition on the +ve is 12v. When trying to start it drops to 9v. This seems to be the wrong way round? Fuel is fine, I can see it going in,
  9. Nothing to compare with, it's a yellow/white spark, should it be bluer?
  10. Yep, have tried leaving it, cleaning the plugs, it doesn't even pop or splutter.
  11. Manual pump, but I still couldn't start it with lots of pumping/no pumping/spraying cold start/spraying petrol directly in etc
  12. It has an automatic choke and the butterflies are closed when cold and open when hot, seems to function ok.
  13. After months of not being able to start the engine, despite fuel, spark, air and timing all OK (Pinto 2.0 with DGAV Webers), it started yesterday by holding a rag over the air intake to the carb. Battery has died due to the number of times I have tried to start the car. Today with a new battery, same thing. Car won't start, but as soon as I put a rag over the air intake it started fine. Once it has been running for a few in minutes it then starts fine every time, while it is hot. Any ideas why or what to do? Thanks
  14. until
    More info at: http://www.cheshireautopromotions.co.uk/classic.php
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