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Everything posted by danny_samb

  1. So the warning lamp now works but still no flash. The stalks are d90bg
  2. Ok thanks for your help that gives me a few things to try. I wired the earth warning lamps piggy backed off each other so I suspect the fault might be with the wire from the headlamps.
  3. If I turn the lights on the clock the stalk into main beam the bulb pattern changes so I guess it works but no lamp lit on the dash. If no lights on and I go to flash the main beam nothing. No lamp on the dash lit or the lights don't flash. Should there be a relay as can't here it click when I pull the stalk
  4. Thanks I'll have a look. How will I know if it should be a live or earth to the stalks. I have warning lamps and gauge not an instrument cluster. All the other lamps work apart from the full beam
  5. I'm sure it's a Vicky green. I think if you put full beam on with the lights on then the light pattern changes so I'm guessing it's on. Bit the full beam light on dash doesn't illuminate
  6. Hi all. Had the dash out my car and now the full beam flash doesn't work, all the lights work. But if I pull the stalk to flash the headlights nothing. Any ideas
  7. I'll have to take a look. It looks like the coilover mount has a couple holes drilled in to adjust the height so shouldn't need to drill anymore. I'll see how far out the camber is once done.
  8. That's gave me something to look at. If measured the front and the rear chassis height. The front is 7 inch and the rear is 8.25 inch so deffinatley need to slide the coilover mount into the roll bar more as it's just over an inch from being all the way in. I would say I have an arch gap from the top of the tyre of about 6-7 inch so needs dropping a fair amount
  9. Sorry to hijack the post. On my 2b the coilover mount is not all the way into the roll bar tube it's out by an inch. This could be why I got such a big arch gap. Also how high have people got the coilovers set. I think mine are at a really long length so maybe needing winding in a couple of turns
  10. I wrapped my car last year, just make sure the car is really clean and no grease. Was quiet awkward around the bonnet vents just used a hair dryer to get it to shape and slit along the vents. Just went straight over the top of the rivets and rubbed something tight around the rivet which then cut the vinyl perfect around the rivet.
  11. Does anyone have any measurements of the rear arches. The front and back edge from the ground. Also the side of the chassis just to see what mine is compared to a few others
  12. I think it's just going to have to be the case of unbolt 1 arch and have a mess around with the positioning, looks like a monster truck at the minute on the rear end
  13. How easy is it to lower the rear arches, mine have about 30 bolts on the inside holding them to the body. So I'm guessing non on them would line up. I might look into superspec arches
  14. Hi all i have a 2b with coilovers, there's a massive arch gap on the rear, I thought about dropping the arches but looks a lot of work. I then noticed the coilover mounting tubes are sticking out the roll bar about 2 inch. Could I slide it further into the roll bar then get Presto less arch gap
  15. I would go 38mm, the hose will have enough flex to get it on, less chance of a leak if it's tight.
  16. If the weather is nice then usually about 9pm, they have a burger van and ice cream van, indoor bar that serves drinks with a live singer.
  17. I can't make this Wednesday, but I attend most during the year. It's a good selection of cars providing the weather is nice.
  18. Wrapped my car myself. Would upload a picture but can't manage to for some reason. Just take your time, plenty of heat and a good squeegy. Transforms the car and if you don't like it after a while can easily change to another colour
  19. Have you got any pictures of the arches lower down, or the process of lowering them. Thanks
  20. Hi all I have a robin hood 2b, I don't like the massive arch gap at the rear, I don't want wind the coilovers down as I won't have any travel then. What I'm thinking is lowering the rear arch's down, I know I'll probably have to chop some out the middle and join back together, has anybody already done this that could give some advice Thanks
  21. Hi all I have a 2b with Sierra doc engine fitted. Standard Sierra loom. I'm after what wire goes where on the alternator. There is 3 poles on the alternator. The wires I have are thick red I'm guessing battery. 2 brown wires into 1 ring terminal. But taped to the red wire is a thin black wire that looks like goes to the same pole as red wire. If done a test on the wire to try find out where they go, put both wires give a reading at the battery light. The alternator was removed last week. But before I had chance to label the wires a friend had removed them. It looked like the brown wire went to the b+ and the thick red went to w or d bit surely that can't be right?
  22. Well guys today went to have a look at the car, turned the ignition on and hear the fuel pump prime. Turn the key another click and it springs into life. Tried it half a dozen more times and all good. So not entirely sure what's happened but it seems to have cured itself, so I best make sure the rac membership is up to date when I take it out lol
  23. Ye mine looks completely different. The original builder used a standard fuse/relay box. There is a relay that has fuel wrote on it, so I'm guessing that's the 1 I need haha, I'll do some detective work at the weekend. I'll pull the relay and test if getting 12v to the relay. If I am then I'm guessing the relay is faulty as not getting 12v at the pump.
  24. Have you got a link or part number for the relay I would need. Where would the crash switch be located. On a quick look there is nothing obvious
  25. Not sure how you test a relay. I'm pretty sure it's the relay for the fuel pump that's not working. As here the ticking and the click when ignition turned on from the ecu. But the fuel pump is doing nothing. A big 0 on the mutlI meter. I'll have a look at the cut off switch but it's jus been sat on the drive. Did find a blown fuse so replaced that and it's not blown again. I'm pretty sure the fuel pump came on the 1st time tried ignition, so I'm wondering if the relay was stuck so blew the fuse and now nothing
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