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I checked the screws holding my hood popers in for length before fitting the glass. I ground about 1/8 inch off the tip to make sure the screw ended in the rubber sealing strip and not the glass. The aluminimum channel realy does not have a lot of allowance for shorter glass im my opinion.

I cut a stack of ply wood 1 sheet at a time to fit the outside of the scuttle and bolted them together with a couple of lengthe of 10mm stud iron. Large hammer into the inside of the bracket so that the hammer marks did not show. PS the ply was free from work.

Papier-mâché is far superior for this type of repair and can be lacquered in a very convincing way. Forget welding as this can burn you whilst Papier-mâché is applied cold and thus very safe. Gaffer tape is ugly and tends to stand out for all to see. Come on steamer do the right thing

I remember Big Jim, who worked for the highways agency for a time, saying that the had a running bet on the first time any of them attended a motorway breakdown where a can of goo had worked. If the tyre goes at speed it is so wreked by the time you stop that nothing will revive it. A slow puncture that you find the next day might be diferent.

The 2 front ones are split off the same part of the MC and so which goes to which front caliper is a matter of easiest pipe routing.

switch should come on just above thermostat fully open. There will be some hysterysis so it will switch off about 5 degrees lower. I have mine set at 95

demon tweeks are based in Wrexham North Wales. Midland wheel suplies south of Rugby would be nearer if they still do seats

Have had new stats fail within a few months, often they turn out to be made in India. There appear to be a lot of rubish parts out there. Only use Quinton Hazell or genuine OEM ones now.

left handed drills are very usefull for drilling bolts out as they often end up also removing the thredded bits as well. Just wish that they were easier to obtain as just about every drill I have seen these days spins both ways.

copper grease normally prevents corrosion sticking the wheel on if it is over all mating surfaces. An other way to break the wheel free is to loosen the wheel bolts about 1/2 turn and drive the car at low speed (10mph) whilst turning the stearing wheel lock to lock, breaks the wheel free very fast but do not drive very far or you will damage the wheel. Clean the new disc to hub mateing surfaces (both of them) before fitting the new disc I have seen numerous problems caused by very small amounts of dirt trapped between disc and hub.

Chapter and verse might follow if I remember, but probably wont.

Sounds like the normal sierra master cylinder. The 2 outlets to the front are in place of a T so the same pressure all round. This master cylinder internally is in 2 parts so that a single hydraulic leek still leaves you with some brakes, either both front OR both back. The split in braking force is given by the relative piston area in the calipers / wheel slave cylinders. Normally the front are significantly larger.

the angle of the taper is what counts 0 45 90? ( pure camber / half and half/ pure toe) But as the angle of the pivot for the trailing arm is approx 30 degrees there will always be bump steer from the back, ford deliberatly designed it this way. The BMW Z axle also operates this way. In a PURE back axle the rear wheels track inside the front wheels whilst turning and the front wheels take a greater side load ( due to the bigger diameter circle they take) and this leads to understeer in the limit (BAD) haveing some rear steer due to roll ( the inside wheel is lightly loaded and just skids) evens out the side load and makes a safer car. The cheep modified mini dampers that became zimerides could not control the rear end as they were designed for a rear suspension where the trailing arm pivot was across the car and there was no rear roll steer.

Just to state the obvious. The alternator also needs a return path in order to work properly. Check for volts between the alernator body and the battery negative should be 0V. I have known the alternator mounting to the engine haveing problems due to rust etc.

Our cars do not have doors. If they have doors they must have burst proof locks. Side screens on the other hand.......................

you can tell between type 9 and mt75 by where reverse is. Type 9 is push down then hard left and forward. MT75 is lift guard and back from 5th. incidently the mt75 was the first mass production box with syncromesh on reverse.

I also have the 32/36 DGAV. When I got the complete engine it did not run very well so I stripped and cleaned the carb and replaced the float neadle and fitted new gaskets. The engine was improved but still was off on idle. Removing the inlet manifold revealed a leaking gasket so i cleaned up the head and manifold mating surfaces and fitted a new gasket. Idle problems solved but still cutting out at high power, replaced the mechanical fuel pump and problems solved. The car has run like this for over 60,000 miles since.

I use cut down ford wiper arms with a sierra wiper cut in half bolted to each arm. I have used a screwdriver to open out the spring as they were perssing to hard on the screen.

Rad hot at top and cold at bottom is rad and thermostat working. Thermostat controls flow to keep engine hot, so with coolish air temps the water getting to the bottom of the rad will be cool to cold. at lower power the thermostat will be almost closed and restrict water flow through the rad so that by the water gets to the bottom it is cold. Dont forget that the rad will be sized to still work in death valley at the hottest day of the year whilst towing a couple of tonne trailer up a 1 in 4 hill.

Ford do a three way heater control valve for the first KA. It is electrically operated but will work as a simple switch with 12V or no volts. It eithersends the water round the heater or it just acts as a recirculate path to heat the inlet manifold. Other ford cars may also use a similar system

You will need a pipe diameter adaptor each way 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch. As long as there is flow this will not have further effect or cause problems.

Check that the plugs into the stearing colum switches are not loose. They come in from the froun of the car and should lock in. Fairly easily seen with the cowl removed.

Fit the little plastic cam that ford fitted to the shaft to do this.

you can fit a pinto to anything

http://www.europaspares.com/interior-parts/instruments-gauges.html first one that came to mind