IanS

A couple of thoughts.

1 oil level a bit high or windage plate missing in the sump leading to frothing of the oil so there is air in the oil and this limits oil pump as it is now pumping oil and air. Have you got the standard sump or has it been modified?

2 oil not draining back to the sump and sitting on top of the cylinder head. take cover off and check that drain holes are clear.

Do not forget that the float displaces fuel in order to float (Archimedes principle) so with the float in the fuel the level will be higher.

Rust in the head.

How far can in can you push a 7mm drill? Is it far enough to take the new sender?

If so you could use a 8mm drill bit turned by hand to clear the *bleep* out.

Yes rears should be able to lock, Have you got a limiting valve in the rears?

Front brakes should always lock first. IVA fail if rears lock first.

One front wheel locking before the other can be due to corner weight problems.

The spring platforms are I assume adjustable.

It can be that one diagonal takes more weight than the other diagonal so the weight on each front wheel is different.

Is there any chance that this is a 6V or 24V alternator?

If not then it looks to be bust.

I appear to have a pass out, fingers crossed that the car starts.

LEDs for cars use 12V.

Polatity can be an issue.

Fuse box would be my next check. A lot of cars have 4 fuses for the headlights Left Main, Left Dip, Right Main & Right Dip.

If you do not know which fuse systematicaly remove one at a time to check if blown put good fuse back and check the next one.

this might help

Most alternators use light to give early charging at engine start but most will self start charging when engine revs hit about 2000 rpm. Once charging the alternator only drops out when stopped.

Some folk want something diferent when they build

Starter solonoid is low current and will not need a relay.

Alternator main output is normally permently connected to the battery, it has 3 phase rectifiers (diodes) installed which stop the alternator discharging the battery when stopped. Second wire is to the bulb in the dash.

Normally a relay (70A?) from the ignition switch powers the live line of the most of the fuses, side lights and hazard lights have to work with ignition off and are the exception.

It does not matter which way the alternator power line runs main relay-battery or battery-main relay, the one that uses least cable is normally chosen.

Unless I am mistaken that is a zimeride (did I spell that right?) which were a robin hood modification of shock fitted to rubber suspension minis (British Leyland version not BMW version)

Why there is a double spring fitted I dont know but it appears strange.

As for sliding pillar I understand that they were stripped out of the doner front struts, I think that there are Utube 2B build videos showing how to do this allong with all the rest of the build. Richard S certainly did everything he could to keep build costs down.

Ian

The 2B is large for a severn inspired car.

I suspect that the panels will end up not fitting, if you have a 2B then check things like rear panel width against equinox panels.

Weather permitting I am with you.

Look up the MOT history on the gov.uk website.

This will give you milage going back several years.

I have forgotten when leaded was phased out but 20 years ago is the right ball park.

If the engine is still running after all this time then valve seat regression is not a problem.

My 2l pinto has an early head that ford says needs leaded petrol, I decided to see what happened and just ran it on unleaded 70,000 miles later it still runs.

When you say heater I take it to be a standard car heater where the waste head from the engine is transfered to the car through a small water radiator and a fan so 2 to 5 amps depending on fan speed.

Lighting 5 amps for each headlight bulb plus 2 amps for everything else less if you have LED bulbs. so 12A.

Everything else you mention less than 5A. total.

So before electrical heated seats 20 to 25A max.

Electrical heated seats are about 10A per seat though some have a higher initial setting for quick heatup but would only be at that setting for short times unless you live in siberia. 10A gives 120W try touching an old 100W bulb in your house after only a short time you get burnt.

So I recon that 40A just about does you at night on a cold rainy day.

You are moving back nearer me, I hope to make it.

Ian

Darrell, thanks for the info. Yes thats us showing an nice gentle run out.

If the pump works why replace it?

I am sticking to E5.

Thought that I better check some other factors.

Ethanol has a petrol equivilency of 1.5. What does this mean? To totaly replace petrol you need to pass 1.5 times as much ethanol in order to keep stoichiometric combustion i.e. burning all the oxygen passing through the engine and is so doing providing almost 1.5 times the power.

This is the reason that older cars cannot run on E10 or higher fuels without remaping the injector settings or rejetting the carb.

More modern cars use the lambda sensor to track the ethanol content and make adjustments on the fly.

Copper pipe is not compatible with ethanol, you get away with E5 or E10 but when higher E numbers appear replaceing with ethanol safe pipe will be needed so check for suitability when buying. The injectors should be good. The corrosion is caused by the water content in the fuel, ethanol absorbs water from the air and the combination atacks some rubbers and copper alloys.

The best way to limit water in fuel is to run the car so the water is consumed by the engine burning the petrol before to much water is absorbed.

Looks as though it is the same pump as you already have but without its anti vibration rubber jacket.

I think that you should be OK without it. Later pumps dont pulse as much.