bullfist

Busy Sunday morning, can get to Thruxton 12.00-12.15. Or meet for lunch somewhere nearby (book beforehand?). -Steve (+val)

Plenty of options. Interestingly carparts4less.co.uk is Eurocarparts (at cheaper prices) - probably because there is less choice and it's all home delivery. Allegedly parts bought from carparts4less can be taken back to a Eurocarparts store. -steve

Do we have a part number for the belt? (click/link?) Looked at mine last night and it's just the same. Drove it 36miles to work this morning, will I get home again? As I guess these are original items probably over ten years old - has anyone looked at the timing belt under the cover too see it's state? -steve

Sorry, we're away this weekend. -steve

Brake fluid reservoir holder - two types, bend to shape. Master cylinder/servo sits in scuttle, but RH mounted the reservoir in the engine bay and piped the fluid to master cyl. My IVA tester didn't like this (so remounted reservoir on master cyl. with hole cut in scuttle for access). Note in engine bay, your chassis inner tubing has been cut and removed at the front. Also at back I have vertical downwards tubing almost at the two corners (with brackets for fuel tank) - cannot see these in your latest photo.

Anywhere east of Salisbury would be ideal if you're looking to change venue. Just read your other post - Great Bedwyn is fine. -steve

Two please Bob. Arrival time will depend on Friday traffic past Stonehenge (and satnav's detour ability). -Steve (+Val)

For the records, clutch cable is Fiat 5966204 (=QCC1303, =GCC2226)

+1 for wearing clutch cable at the pedal end (biting into the nylon bush). If you want it, when I had to replace mine, I somehow managed to find out the Fiat part number (ducato cable). I'll have a look when I'm home. -steve

You could eliminate the basics first - you need three things to run an engine: fuel, air, ignition - once you've confirmed all these are good then it must be the MEMs. 1. Fuel. With engine at idle, check return fuel flow is constantly good. Return is low pressure - maybe add some clear piping in to see fuel being returned (any other ideas?). 2. Ignition. Many years ago an AA guy disconnected one of the HT leads and held close to engine block so could see healthy spark when engine cranked over. 3. Air. I guess check for no blockages. This post started with: "I've changed the fuel pump". So I guess you had the same problem before you changed the pump? Is problem now better or worse? -steve

Put a multi-meter across the fuel pump terminals and take lots of readings (e.g. before starting, once started, when warm, when in reverse, when need to start with full throttle etc.). Might quickly point to an electrical supply problem to the pump.

First thought is no tank ventilation - you're creating a vacuum in the tank as you use fuel. But if there is a slight leak, this would probably contradict that idea.

Yes, sump guard is a must these days with so many pot-holes and speed-ramps. I made mine from 2mm stainless.

1 kilo of coal for 20p - where's that from?

Had this on a tin-top - it was muck in the tank.

Mine flies off if I look sideways

I use the radiator switch (bottom RH). Works, but I do have to watch the temperature reach 100C willing the the fan to cut in (e.g. when coming off motorway and queueing on the slip road). Dash-board temp. sensor is at top of engine block, so there will be a delay before radiator gets hot enough. Conclusion: it works but it may not be the best position for it. I also found that when my switch started leaking, the plastic holder had broken, so fabricated a new one from alu and all is good. -steve

Put 9" wipers on mine - good coverage. Doors help muffle some of the sound. Buts doors and roof is painfully noisy. -steve

Googling "Banner batteries reliability" doesn't return much to support what Halfords guy said. However, it might have been the guy's trickle charger, see: www.powerstream.com/SLA.htm under "Overnight Charging, Unregulated Transformer-Based Chargers" -steve

http://www.amta.org.au/pages/Exploding.petrol.stations

When I built my kit, I had to shorten the handbrake cable, I googled many ways, but in the end I brazed (silver soldered) it - and learnt a new skill. (Cut cable and drill out eyelet to take new cable end). Cable still good after more than eight years. If you can solder electrically then silver-soldering is similar but hotter (I used map gas and map blowtorch), so you will burn your fingers at some point. -steve

No starters 2 x Roast beef Thanks, -steve

Remember buying a set of masonry bits from a major supplier that (I think) were sourced from India. A anticipated vigorous piece of masonry drilling put a right-angle bend in the bit!

+2 please Bob. Steve (+Val)

Daughter got me the distance meter and IR thermometer - I'm impressed. Now use the laser dot on the IR to annoy the cat!