sj-bradley

I don't use a google account or at least the google home page always says "sign in" which I never do. I always have the Rhocar site on a pinned tab, usually signed out (although with this trouble, it sometimes says signed in again after a refresh some hours later) So I have to sign out, then go to the settings page in chrome, find the cookies left behind and delete them in order to stay signed out. I have now found an extension "Disable Cookies" which I will try with this site. Thanks, Simon.

It must be down to the cookies that Chrome stores on my machine. If I logout and remember to clear all rhocar cookies from the settings page, I don't have the problem. It's only if I forget to clear these cookies I find this problem. Is there a way to clear these cookies on logout or will I have to find a way to block them permanently? Thanks, Simon.

After deliberately signing out, shutting the computer down and coming back after some hours, I find my account is SIGNED IN AGAIN even though I did not do this. Can some one please fix this security loophole? I have to sign out, then go and find the cookies that this site left behind and delete all of those. Why does this site need to keep cookies anyway? It is only this site that I have problems with. Imagine a bank site which does this So can some one please fix this? Thanks, Simon.

This is still happening. I "know" I signed out last night, yet when I restarted this morning, I find that I am STILL signed in. Why is this happening? Simon.

Yes, I should be there as well. I look forward to catching up with you all. Simon.

I liked the http://www.banggood.com/Mountain-Bike-Bicycle-Turbine-Motorcycle-Sound-Exhaust-Pipe-p-976575.html I remember you used to use some old plastic between the spokes to do the same thing Simon.

As the sender is the only moving part, have you checked the resistance of the sender at both limits of travel? Sounds like the sender has failed open circuit. It should range from almost zero ohms (empty) to about 200 ohms (full). If this has failed open, then the gauge will always read full. Simon.

If it's not plugged into the sender and still reads full, it sounds like it's got a faulty earth inside somewhere. Simon.

Hey, that's pretty good. It even showed up the history of the fails (and they must have been fixed) for the car. Showed mine as having two new rear shocks which I didn't know about. (edit - not the kit. That showed up fine. I meant the tin top) Very useful. Thanks, Simon.

Actually, no, it only show the expected voltages that you should see. It doesn't tell me what the actual resistance value of the pot should be. A potentiometer is commonly used as a voltage divider which produces a value between the supply (in this case 5 volts) and ground (0 volts). So the values listed are what you expect, but a pot of 5k or 50k would produce the same effect. What matters is, is the pot "stiff" enough compared to the input impedance of the ECU? and also not too low to draw excessive current. Tricky subject this electrickery ... Simon.

That's not entirely critical. With the three pins on the potentiometer, the wiper is tapping off a voltage which the ECU will be reading, not a current. So a 5k ohm or 10k ohm pot will do the same job. You don't want it too low (which will draw too much current from the supply) or too high (noise on the signal will become dominant) but I think anything from 5k to 20k would be fine. It does depend in the input impedance of the ECU though which is not normally known. Simon.

I've found that if you MOT in the month before the expiry date, the MOT runs FROM the expiry date to the next due date. That's what's happened in the past anyway. As I noticed in one of the previous posts "... in order to preserve the anniversary date ..." , or in other words, you DO get a full 12 months MOT if you test in the preceding month and it passes. If it doesn't pass, you still have the remainder of the MOT to drive it to a place of repair. It's only if the MOT has expired that problems arise. That's how it seemed to happen when my MOTs have been due to now anyway. Simon.

You can use the settings you see in my screenshot. I adjusted the initial injector prime time and that cured the cold start problem. This only occurs on the initial start of the engine and only injects that extra bit of fuel before the engine starts turning. It is not used once the engine has turned more than one turn. It should suit you too. (must type faster ... ) Simon.

That's the same problem I had until I adjusted these settings. The original settings were far too short and I found these from the example that emerald give themselves. So I combined GBS's map with these settings and it worked very well. Simon.

The initial injector prime is equivalent to a choke start up. Adds more fuel on initial start up. The cranking enrichment is a decreasing amount of fuel extra until final smooth running. Hope that helps? Simon.

If you do drill and plug it, make sure that the expansion coefficient of the metal you use for the plug is not greater than the cast iron or else it will be like ice cracking rocks open And if it expands less than the hole it will creep and drop through unless you only half tap the hole. (but I think Grandma and eggs comes to mind somehow ... ) Simon.

Like this one ? Simon.

That's actually a clever trick. Others would try starting with just the key or the button and get nothing. Having to do both at once is a simple anti theft device. (May not stop them for long if they realise this though) Simon.

Was the temperature gauge really mounted upside down originally - or did you do that to see if anyone spotted it ? Simon.

Could you post the picture please? I don't get CKC so a copy of the pic would be nice. Simon.

I still sometimes come across this problem if I forget to delete the cookies in chrome after signing out. After an indeterminate time, I can find that refreshing the page shows me a logged in again. Is there a way to make the cookies self destruct on signing out? Thanks, Simon.

There are a list of major parts that can be classed as reconditioned in the DVLA rules. I bundled gearbox and diff under the word "Transmission" and that was accepted. (Don't mention them individually though) I believe you also need the V5 from the donor and proof that all the major parts came from that (E.g. engine number matches for one). Photo evidence helps. Since the steering rack doesn't have serial numbers that are used, I think it would be hard for DVLA to prove it didn't come from the donor (unless of course that rack was the wrong type and could never have come from it) DVLA should have sent out the "amateur builder's pack" which should have all the relevant forms in it too. It's been a while sine I did this so I may have forgotten something ... Simon.

You may "think" you haven't touched wires, but did you move any nearby wires? I'd check the vicinity where you replaced fuel lines and see if you have caught any by accident. It can happen. Simon.

I had similar problems to begin with until I realised that the rubber seal was missing just under the cap / top of raceline water rail. After making one up, the problem was sorted. I mixed the antifreeze / water off the car and just filled up with the mix, 50/50 but couldn't tell you how much of each. Simon.