knights_templar

you feel you need a cup holder? I would consider if you need a high performance sports car.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ilk94wicgli40xu/vicki_green_pinto_wiring_loom.pdf?dl=0

At block connector under the wing. green violet to + of high level Black to - of high level

This was a common miss interpretation of the manual, that came about when I was taking cars for IVA. The ministry added note 4, and immediately it was interpreted, that you had to have auto off rear fog lights. Auto off for rear fog lights was not required back then, and I can see nothing that makes it a requirement now. The manual says 4. The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit (see alternatives in Notes 3 and 4). Notes 3 and 4, the one that mentions auto off, are alternatives, so you can have them if you wish, but not required. If you feel you must have it, you can achieve the effect with a couple of relays from the donor, you don't need to spend £35 on a fancy box.

I should claim copy right infringement.

Hi Does the scuttle have the pre cut holes for the screen brackets? If So https://www.dropbox.com/s/wctjey9hf0d7guj/2013-02-06 15.44.52.jpg?dl=0 Get kit https://www.dropbox.com/s/30ar21imqpzqxyc/EXTWPS2_IMG_2681.jpg?dl=0 Fit kit https://www.dropbox.com/s/45gsnuy1ev66d9e/IMG_5849.JPG?dl=0 Sorry, still looking for measurement to cut tube, think they are in the manual somewhere Mod wiper arms https://www.dropbox.com/s/dl8pm4g7rv757q7/wiper arm build.docx?dl=0 Shout if you need anything else Regards

Careful with engine mounts, I have seen to MT75 bell housings crack where the gearbox and or engine mounts have been changed for a different mount to the Zero standard. I would talk to Richard

I'm surprised they kept it open so long, I was really the only one interested in it, can not remember any input from others accept Ruth. I did start a google groups as backup, but Groups died a while back, and life has just got in the way, less time available for long explanations on the forum, and the questions dried to a trickle anyway. I still have all the info, but after nearly four years, it's not going to be that up to date, although it appears to have taken most of that time, and nearly two years, whilst I was there, for the "new" Zero to appear so maybe not that far out of date. I rarely do Facebook it's a horrible platform for long text entry, but all the stuff is on Mega and Dropbox, not in any sort of order, but its all there including the manaul, procedure write ups diagrams etc, could link to files I suppose, perhaps someone with more time than me, could volunteer to collate the information and make it more builder friendly, and if they feel something is missing or needs revision, I could add, alter etc. Anyone interested?

The make of the tool matters less than using the right tool for the right task, and possible the ability to use them. Seen some huge tool boxes with lots of shinny spanners, but they are of no use if the biggest spanner is the owner. Just my opinion of course, but 47 year in the motor trade, does have an effect on you

yes that is fine

Have you changed the fork pivot?

Some flight gauges had a damper issue, I understand its a circuit in the guage, and can be adjusted. Problem is getting into the guage is destructive, but Smiths (CAV) did do a few FOC, have a word with them, may depend on where you got them and how long you have had them

it transforms the car

Finding two loose bolts would make me a little concerned. Did they have any other lock system, although obviously ineffective, such as spring or star washers? IVA requires locking devices on on all nuts and bolts unless thread lock is used and the bolt marked as such. Would a spanner check be prudent?, as you did not build the car, although in the builders defence there are bits on the car that have a tendency to have "issues". For example the Mazda rear hub to the lower rear wishbone, if you find that loose, come back to me, it may not just be a case of re tightening.

If you havent I would also put some large flat washers on the bolts before going through the chassis plate, may be considered belt and braces but the more you support the plate the better. I think you will be safe to use the speed sensor in its current position.

That should sort the speedo, but If the diff is moving, other problems will develop. The diff hangs on bolts from the cross member under the boot floor, but a lot acceleration and overrun forces are taken by the two bolts to the right of the diff front casing. On the donor vehicle these bolt held the diff to the torque beam that ran from a mount at the back of the gearbox, making the diff and gearbox one unit. The zero uses a plate on the chassis, to hold the nose of the diff, but it must be fitted with two HT bolts through the original torque beam bolt holes. the diff should fit flush with the chassis bracket, some have dowels that can stop the diff fitting flush, these need removing, bolts should be fitted with body washers. If this is not done the chassis bracket can flex allowing the diff drive flange to lift on acceleration and drop on deceleration.

your speedo sensor should be mounted above the diff/prop flange, if it isn't that's your problem, if it is the diff is moving. You can use the pulse from the gearbox pickup if it is electronic, you just need to know the number of pulses per revolution to program the speedo head

I suspect your diff is moving, it will continue to take out sensors, and possibly do damage to the chassis and or diff unless you secure it. changing to GPS or gearbox sensor will stop the speedo issue, but you have the makings of a greater problem.

If they are standard bushes the tubes are only mild steel, and can rust if not greased well. and yes they will then act like files. You can replace like for like with GBS ones, or there is another alternative, but not cheap, but they use stainless steel tubes, I can help with the price if you are interested, because that is what do now. PM me

my thoughts to, how have they failed?

Yes you do cut it. depends on the sump you are using as to how mutch. Use only the GBS engine and gearbox mounts. https://mega.nz/#!3hZRkKIS!Gy1Ov7Ab7JyGGunwS-9DNQpWRxRNf9B6wBNoGQWIeJI https://mega.nz/#!2sY1WCoY!OIdckCfGHBJxcAOdwav_D4ngr3kh299RDfMYMEpGirs Sorry the pictures are at different orientations.

You need to know the manual, because th testers have their own interpritation 4. The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit (see alternatives in Notes 3 and 4). That is the rule, the alternatives are in notes 3 and 4 note 4 says Note 4: Either of the following scenarios will also be considered acceptable:  The rear fog lamp(s) may continue to operate until the position lamps are switched off, and the rear fog lamp(s) must then remain off until deliberately switched on again or,  An audible warning, additional to the mandatory telltale light, must be activated if the ignition is switched off or the ignition key is withdrawn and the driver's door is opened, whether the lamps in (RS4) are on or off, whilst the rear fog lamp switch is in the "on" position. but it is only an alternative if you do not comply to main item 4. Challange it, they are obliged to give a reason for fail, so why does it not meet item 4.

You can fit it but it is not neccesary for IVA Just that the rear fog only works on dip beam and there is a warning light to show its on

From memory, which I conceed is failing, 13021, assuming you are picking up on the prop bolts. It will not be exact. just lift and chock the vehicle safly and run it up through the gears to 70 mph, reading should be steady. IVA tester always set the ones I took, during test.

Plugs fire in pairs, 1-4 and 2-3, the same as the injectors, so the 3-4 combination getting warm, it is unlikly to be either. But its worth checking the plugs are working, move plugs 1-2 to 3-4, if the fault dosent move, swap the plug leads at the coil pack, 1-4 and 2-3. if the same cylinder warm up, reasonable to conclude that ignition is not the problem, however the Zetec is prone for glazing plugs, so try another set. Ignition timing, one sensor on the Zetec, the Emerald/GBS does not use the cam sensor, it has to have the right config file in the ECU to understand the sensor pulses, but it is firing two differnet ignition circuits, 1-4 and 2-3, it is right or pretty close Fuel, needed of course, but if you are using brake cleaner as the fuel it should still fire on all four, not just 3 and 4 but what ever the fuel, you need air, and the throttles are paired 1-2, and 3-4, so are they all open to the same point? ATR are not factory set. Just a theory, prehaps someone can review for errors in the thought process?