knights_templar

the brackets alone can't cost £200. that must include the alternator. I'm sure brackets would be available separately

Hi Type 9 needs two mods to bell housing and a change in release arm pivot. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11598108/type%209/2boxes.jpg http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11598108/type%209/type%20nine%20trim%20%281%29.jpg are pics I hurriedly put together for another member, a short while back PM if you need anything else or detail is unclear regards

depends what you are plunging it into. If it plug into your loom the temptation would be to keep the plugs and drill a bigger hole. Or cut the plug off pass the wire through a small hole and reconnect in engine compartment. or change the plugs for terminals, although this always looks messy. four pin plus and sockets are available at different sizes. regards

could just buy one already done. try GBS regards

just noted gaiter on track rod end nut cover on headlight nut looks really nice build regards again

From your pics radius on lower part of dash front suspension, sharp edges, nut covers. Wiring in engine bay, runs, armour, security Regards

sound like volt drop. If engine turns ok when there is no load, eg plugs out. it would indicate nothing is jamming the engine. so we can assume work in bell housing is OK If you have tried another battery, and a starter with same outcome, we should exclude these for the moment. The only thing left are the connections between the battery, starter motor and return through the chassis to the battery. Starter draws more current under load, any poor connection will reduce the power to the starter. As you would have removed the feed and earth wires, to get the engine out, these are the first suspects. if you are sure of the earth's, recheck the live feed. Just a tip, poor connections can get very warm.

Check with GBS, they do backing plates, and filters. If carbs are fitted to non GBS manifold you may have to buy a blank, filter holes etc already cut and cut the mounts to suit your set-up. Regards

Seat belt mountings are 7/16 UNF, NOT metric. A legacy from the original seat belt fittings from the 1960's. Bolts supplied with belts should fit. Regards

Hi Am a little surprised you are not aware that Zetec standard inlet does not fit, GBS are pretty good at explaining the options when they sell engines. GBS advise Jenvey or AT throttles, but have a new Pelham chamber, that re-uses many of the Ford parts. Contact Richard at GBS, the set-up has been on the the rolling road, and looks very good for the money. Regards

original car was made by Robin Hood, now Great British sports cars. Have a look at their parts web site. http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/catagory.php?cat=22 Please note, you will need access to a good welder. Regards

Hi not familiar with "crate". which engine is it? Have merged emerald into Zetec loom before. if it helps. Regards

Hi Ring Richard at GBS. 01623 860990 they made the kit, so should know Regards

Hi Avoiding the above "discussion". You need to have the chassis number stamped into the chassis, or stamped on a plate, welded to the chassis, AND on a manufacturers plate which also shows model, manufacturing year, axle weights etc. this only needs riveting As its a Robin hood, get the manufacturers plate from GBS, they will stamp it for you for a small charge. They can also stamp you a piece of steel that you can have welded on. It must be on the off side of the vehicle. The number on the plate? You can use the original chassis number from the log book. the vehicle then becomes the old vehicle with a new body and you should be able to get the old plate, if still available, or a Q plate. Going for a new chassis will mean its a new vehicle, and I suspect may get complicated. Engine, emissions etc. V.O.S.A only deals with the testing, it's the D.V.L.A that makes the decisions, have a look at, http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/BuyingAndSellingAVehicle/ImportingAndExportingAVehicle/DG_177879 All the forms are available from there as are details of what you have to do. Regards Simon

Hi It is not possible to say the power you will get, or not, with out considering other factors that effect engine performance. the old saying "you don't get something for nothing" does apply. some info I have found. http://ford-force.forumotion.com/t49-zetec-camshaft-identification note the changing of more than cams to get a little more power, and the effect else where. some info as to what you are doing, http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm you may also have to look at compression ratio, induction, exhaust etc to get any meaningful results. Only way of testing is rolling road. A lot of advice is available on the Internet, but always be suspicious. Ford have a very large budget for their research and development. they are probably going to get it right. that does not mean you can't get a few bhp here or there, but there will be a cost somewhere, and it will be a FEW bhp. regards

Hi David There are a couple of moulds out there. If you have to strain to get the nose around the top wishbone mounts, trim the nose around them. some fit and hide the brackets, some don't. Either way is ok, but remember, if bracket is exposed it will need edge trimming for IVA

Hi Jamie rad with filler neck is a tight fit, but should clear top and bottom, without touching the nose. if it is, it may be the fitting of the rad itself. Info is not clear, but rad fits into rad brackets not on top. If you require details, you know where to get me. Regards Simon

keep the injection, if you can. The only problem may be induction in zero. but you have it so you may as well try it and see if you require any mods. Just be methodical when taking it apart. label, diagrams etc. Don't forget, IVA, and emissions. With injection you may be able to get a new plate, other criteria met. With bike carbs?

one or two. which Smiths clocks are they? I can do the digital, but for analogue you may have to use Mark B's advice Regards

With the two centre compressions low, it is most likely a head gasket. Take the head off and inspect, would guess you will find blow hole between 2 and 3.

before we get to any advice. what engine? what are you feeding, carbs, fuel injection................? is it a constant flow system? All have a bearing as to what and where you place any pump or pumps. example Standard Zero with Jenvey or AT throttle bodies requires a lift pump to feed the system, and a high pressure pump as near the engine as possible, taking its supply from a swirl pot, again as near the engine as possible and a fuel pressure regulator. A pinto mechanical pump will be able to feed all carb types, inc bike carbs if you really have to. So a bit more information would help Regards

goggled for above and found this http://nw.rhocar.org/ESC2.htm any use? regards

Hi have noted some items that you will need to do. I have tried to PM the list but it says you are unable to recive any more messages. Will try again later, or PM me with your email, and I will send direct. Regards

Have you contacted GBS yet as per PM. I understand it may be of benefit to you. regards

Job is quite straight forward, Is it GBS cover? I've fitted a fair few of them. I ask as theirs isn't leather, and fitting may differ. Simon