knights_templar

unfortunately I have never seen a map for IVA. have you asked your supplier? most go for performance when they go to a rolling road, not emissions. you can adjust fuelling with the engine running, but you will need a three or four gas analyser in the exhaust, the same type as the test station have. The exact settings you need will depend on the registration plate you are aiming for. New plate will require Tick-over CO < 0.30 HC < 200 2500 – 3000 RPM CO < 0.20 HC < 200 Lambda 0.997 – 1.030 The numbers in the map have no relationship to the figures above, all you can do is adjust, wait a few seconds for the tester to react and see what you have. As you can see the tolerance is fine, which means you would normally run with a lambda probe in closed loop as all current vehicle do. Alternatively the emerald will take a wide band Lambda set-up, and adjust itself, to a point. it's not cheap and requires some set-up. but its what I use, less messing at test. One booked in tomorrow. S

Simple answer is you can't,.......unless you have some very expensive kit. However, you can get close. first a few questions Which map are you using? Have you calibrated the TPS? Have you balanced the throttle bodies? Which fuel pressure regulator do you have? Exact pressure would be good. Are you running with a Lambda sensor? If so which one, wide or narrow? Are you looking for performance, economy, IVA, All three? From your post Colour of plugs are an indicator of what was happening when you last switched off, but unlike carburettors, fuel injection can vary the mixtures and timing at any point throughout the load, engine speed, air temperature, coolant temperature and even altimeter range. All controlled by the ECU map. And that's a very basic explanation. The colour of the manifold indicates heat. 1&4 are on the outside so are likely to run slightly cooler, again of no use as an indicator. With the above we can probable get it smother and road going, but a rolling road session is the ONLY way to be exact. Even then you will require more than one map. Performance maps are not good on economy, and you can forget IVA and MOT on a new registration. Which is the reason the Emerald can run with up to three Maps. Simon

Not sure why you would want to take control out of the hands of the emerald. You can adjust the fan control temperature in software and it looks after itself. However if you still prefer an override, the emerald provides an earth to the fan relay to switch it on, therefore simply provide a switched earth to the fan relay terminal that goes to pin6 of the emerald. As in philshelton dia.

you haven't indicated how you are checking the clearances. performance cams profiles may mean that the clearance gap must be checked at different point to the standard. I would try setting the gap to that advised by Kent, then turning the cam a small distance ether way to see if the gap increases. If you find the position with the greater gap, set it there. It is not advisable to run with clearance smaller than that advised by the manufacturer. Valves heads can become overheated and burn out. Pinto's are renown for for oil feed problems to the cam, although, if I remember Kent come with a new oil rail.

you will have to mod that quite a lot, but all the basic circuits are there. attachment to the Zetec engine loom is possible, but you will have to do some doctoring. Really comes down to how happy are you with electrics.

Hi the diagram is missing the link to the indicators. Add the wires from terminal 10 and 1 from the diagram above. that should work Regards

As promised, had a word with Nottingham test station re seat and belt adjustment. It appears that the is no stated position to test the adjustment of the belts, just the opinion of the tester as to the most likely position of the seat in normal use. "In the opinion of the tester at the time of testing" This will mean that different testers may take a different view, Their advise is to lock the seat adjusters for the test, or put a stop in to reduce seat movement. so maybe it is a good idea not to fix the runners until after the test :-)

As with other posts we will need a little more info to help as there are a number of options re looms, gauges etc.

Hi to reply in order 1/ The calliper connection and chassis mount all that are required. With careful positioning of the flex in the chassis mount it is possible for the suspension to move freely without the flex contacting either body or suspension, which is what the IVA tester is looking for. If you have problems, or need another routing than the norm, just clip with a tie rap with a rubber spacer. (as per MikeD's pic) 2/ Chassis numbers must be 17 digits long, they can be made up, but must be unique to your vehicle. you can use your name, age, model, pets name or combination, as long as its 17 long. it must appear on your chassis plate, along with axle weights, build date etc, AND on the chassis itself, either stamped in the metal or in a plate WELDED to it. 3/ How old is your kit? the mounting changed over the last few months. the earlier one used a vertical bracket on the exhaust, which used two bobbins to mount to the side of the body. the later has a horizontal mount, and uses one bobbin to mount to a bracket that in turn is mounted under the side of the body, so no holes in your panels. 4/ The alloy seat rails have a tendency to bind when tightened down, usually caused by the seat mounting points. however if they move freely when bolted to the seat it must be the fitting to the floor, try to space them away from the carpet. The later steel type do not have any such problems. On my many visits to the Nottingham IVA I have never seen the adjustment checked at full forward position, only full rearward. Will have to ask testers when they are open tomorrow. it is allowable to add extension plates to the mounts, provided they are up to the job. If you are able to correct the above, make sure the belts will still adjust. nice new belts stored in damp garages, or rained on whilst driving or transported to IVA, will jam. Not in a position today to provide any pics, but if you need anything further I will try to help. Regards

Hi Kit is available from GBS, pre drilled and bent, but is not for the faint hearted. significant bits of the chassis have to be removed and replaced. removing is easy, any 9" grinder will do it. replacing has a lot to do with your vehicle. 2b chassis are "similar". so some care must be taken to get the new bits positioned right if you don't want it turned into a crab. Then is just a case of GOOD welding, and refit. I've done three. The mod makes the car A LOT better, but I must sympathise with Tazzman1 view. have you seen the new wide zero? Regards

Zero chassis gearbox mount is pre drilled and shaped to fit the gearbox rubber mounting. just place mount onto plate, note the amount you need to trim to get it to seat correctly, when it seats mark where the holes are, remove and drill. no need to fit engine/gearbox. however, some early mountings have a lip that can catch the bottom of the gearbox and I would advise cutting either the lip or the web on the gearbox. stops transmission knock. mount has now been re designed.

E numbers on screen are important, however no screen will pass unless you have a demister fitted. Best to present without screen. Just cover wiper spindles, if fitted, and disconnect washer pump, stops tester getting a face full if they press the button by accident, tend to be picky if upset.

bracket on engine is similar to the used by GBS. Pedal end requires 'U' bracket to stop stress on cable. Pedal will have long travel, but will work. second return spring is advised.

there are two types of cooling system, one with a pressurised header tank, the other, non pressurised normally called an expansion tank. standard Zero uses an expansion tank, which can be fitted anywhere convenient. The system is kept under pressure by the rad cap, any excess expansion leaks past the cap into the tank, and is sucked back when the system cools. If you check with GBS, you will find they fit a small tank along side the left engine mounting, way below the filler/pressure caps.

those are the colours supplied with the headlight, and do not match the loom colours. you will also need a fourth wire for the side light. A kit is available from GBS. A cost but much easier. If you are going for IVA, make sure there is a second insulation on the wiring and it goes through the headlight bolt.