knights_templar

same question as theduck, WHAT are you looking for, and I will ask my lad where he thinks they/it may be. worked at a dealer, now a specialist in VAG

Morning Nigel The Emerald uses this plug https://www.dropbox.com/s/96v5i6zt8q1aoso/ecu%20plug.jpg?dl=0 And these terminals https://www.dropbox.com/s/3v7mk107j69n0fn/ter.jpg?dl=0 Which are available separately The terminals are released by lifting a catch in pin slot of the block have had to replace them, wires can be pulled out with a lot of handling, but often damage is caused by probing, safer to probe from the wire side if you absolutely have to.

there may be a slight change in pattern but I don't think it is significant. The "misfire" we have assumed, is due to a lean mixture, this would be borne out as the increase in fuel pressure has reduced or stopped the problem. The Zetec setup that Craig has is one of the simplest. The TPS tells the ECU the throttle position, the ECU looks at its map and fires the injector to give a set quantity of fuel for that throttle position. If the map was constructed using 3 bar fuel pressure, increasing the fuel pressure will allow more fuel for the same injector firing. The unknown here is the quantity of air entering the engine for a given TPS signal. You can calibrate it but that only tells the ECU the start and stop position, if you have the throttles to far open when you do the basic calibration then you have more air than the ECU will Know about. Which is why, I believe, the problem can be corrected by "setting" the start of the map. Could be wrong, but its a lot easier than other suggestions. RR will of course be best, and will have to be done with the map likely to have been supplied with those throttles.

You do not want to be running that system at that pressure. you are not correcting the fault, just disguising it.

rules changed not to long ago, cant give you a date. Robin hood plate does not now comply. Richard is right, they will accept manufacturers name and the VIN number, other detail can be provided but it must be in a certain order, and should be in boxes. but like much of the test it is the testers interpretation of the manual, on the day that matters.

think you will find the angle of the panel is different between Zero and 2b Nelmo, Magh is right the mount and the reflector is normally cut into on the Zero version, you have used trim to fill the gap.

so owning SR. what are you qualifications, engineering, mechanical, design?

not advisable

Craig, The GBS maps were done on STANDARD Ford injectors, the 310cc in the comments field comes from the base map that Dave at Emerald modified into the GBS maps. As long as the injectors are standard Zetec 2.0 ltr the map is fine. As brumster says, increasing the pressure overcomes a lean mixture, but there are other reasons for a lean mixture, and I suspect the throttles are not aligned with the map. Setting this is a much cheaper remedy, than changing injectors. I suspect also that the map comment also give the map as being for Jenveys, am I right?

Still think its TPS and/or map alignment. two coil packs with same fault, possible I suppose.

Found the earlier spyda that way Tim, but the later one worked on both the cars I fitted one on. can't speak for all of them of course, just the two I have fitted.

Spyder

Sorry you are still having problems Craig, but I must caution. That vehicle ran perfectly, on very poor wiring. It would appear to me, following some of this story, on here and elsewhere, that your problems started when some mods were carried out, is this correct? The Zetec is known for fouling plugs, have you changed them? The TPS wiring is a known problem, if you have followed the GBS wiring scheduled it should be right, but there are versions depending on TPS. The ATR use a production TPS that can distort when tightened, you must check the TPS output in the ECU, It should move smoothly, without any jumps from 0 to 100 %. It is important that you calibrate the map to the throttles. The map, what ever map, assumes that 0% throttle is giving a known amount of air to the cylinders, if 0% is out then the whole map is out, this can be "trimmed" with the Emerald. and the trim can point to what is wrong. You have ATR, which map do you have? A RR may be the solution, but a knowledgeable person may achieve the same with the right map and a bit of time with the car. You may indeed have some or all of the problems that are noted above by contributors, but if I can help, you do know my email.

as above, which map are you running?

there is a problem, see post

Thats not a Zero, possibly MK from headlight mounts, any other ideas?

You MUST have a engine timing kit for that engine, and if it is that far out I would have a compression tester to hand for after the timing is correct

Could this be of help ? https://www.dropbox.com/s/ogy44daeicsbvg7/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf?dl=0 Might not be for your carbs but in principle, there may be something.

yes it can, but if you are illuminating the switch with the side light switch there should be a clear difference with the Fog light on.

I would check fuel level, they are prone to the float valve sticking especially if they have been stood long enough for the fuel to evaporate away from the float bowls, the residue sticks the valves, causing a higher float level and with the cold start enrichment, basically a fuel tap, they just over fuel.

Was he using the right usb to serial adaptor, the emerald requires the CTS line to be active to program, although you can read the ECU information and do some live adjustments, you will have problems writing to the ECU without it, and many of the USB to serial adaptors do not have it. A computer fitted with a serial port is best, but the adaptor sold by Emerald has always worked for me. Careful of the connection cable though, because it can get damaged internally.

to break this down logically, it fires on brake cleaner, which takes very little igniting, bypassing carbs, and it runs on the old 40's but not on the new carbs. It can have fuel at the plugs, but to much is as bad as to little, and it isn't as though the webber does not have a reputation for flooding.

shows the difference in interpretation of the test manual.

January 1982 You will need the Ford list, or a letter from Ford showing your engine number.

I believe the Exmo used a Ford donor, in which case there are two code letters at the beginning of the number that denote the age of the engine. There is also a list of engine codes related to month and year of first use with Ford credentials that the testers will accept. Nottingham had the list in the back of their manual. BUT, the engine number must be original, any changes or signs of alteration will negate the proof and you will be asked to meet current emission standards.