Jez Morton

What's the setup on the car, Sierra springs and dampers or coil covers? The ride height on my old S7 was fine with std Sierra springs. It might be set up to give correct camber, this changes with ride height I had to use camber wedges on mine to correct too much camber.

When I had my S7 with standard Sierra springs and shocks I added towing/caravan spring assisters in the the rear springs and this stopped it grounding. This would be a quick cheap fix but I doubt you'll get them nowadays.

When you say hot, do you mean overheating? When first set mine up I used standard thermostat 92degrees and an 96degree fan switch in top hose which kicked in at 100degrees (there's small a difference between block and hose?). In 30 degree weather the car was boiling hot but not overheating, but I would get nervous stuck in queues. I changed to an 82 degree thermostat and an 88 degree fan switch this keeps the under bonnet temps down, it runs at 80deg when cruising and rarely gets above 95degs if stuck in traffic.

I did similar but welded in a curved section of steel pipe, went from having to dribble fuel in to full speed fill. I also found the flange was to close the the end of the pipe so it leaked, fixed it by adding 1mm washer of nitrile rubber to the cap seal.

Found a pic of my setup.

I'm using standard rad cap expansion tank isn't pressurised. It's the same way capris and Cortinas where plumbed.

I use a Capri expansion tank connected to the overflow under the radiator cap. You need it to catch the water wet as it expands due to heat, when it cools the coolant gets drawn back into the rad.

I managed to move std alt down with some 6 or 8mm plate, i used the original bracket bolt holes to mount plate and drilled for standard alt bracket further down. I also had to add a new adjuster fixing point off the plate. Alternater does get closer to steering rack but mine never touches it.

To take advantage of the cheaper 12month price, I tax mine in installments then sorn when I'm done for the year after 6 or 7 months. You need to sorn before the month starts then payments stop and if you've paid for the month you sorn you get a refund. Its not saving much money but does make taxing more flexible.

I've cancelled at Horseshoe, as we're not allowed in to wales yet.

Halfords aerosol brake cleaner worked great for me.

No it doesn't, had to change mine when I swapped to 5 speed in old kit.

The readings are in the attached (thanks Stu). Mine was okay until it got hot, then the resistance would jump to 400k plus

It's in the middle of the inlet manifold you'll need to remove the strengthening plate first, its got two wires coming off it which are part of the injection loom.

I had a issue on my pinto efi, kept getting high tick over changed everything checked everything. It was the coolant temp sensor. Probably the cheapest part to change, but I had to buy long 25mm socket to get it out.

I had similar popping with twin 40's, would pop every time I turned it off. Was impressive at night could see a blue flame shoot out the exhaust. Turns out it was over rich and a tune up sorted it. Sounds like something might be sticking in your carb.

Me and Andy are booked into the Horseshoe.

I've used Tayna to replace my old sierra battery, the square terminals are getting scarce and they had them on Ebay at a good price with decent warranty. Best bit, there was an additional discount code to use in the Ebay advert. Came within a day or two for less than 40quid.

They are something odd, 1.95 or 2inch. If you replace go for 1.9 it's a closer size if space is tight. 13open 10 closed is what most replace with as it's a standard length, the zimmers I had were 12.5 open which matches caterham shock lengths?

Can you add me to the list.

I'd try swapping blue and black if its backwards the voltage could be dropping when it should rise which may confuse the ECU.

Wonder if the carvery will run out of meat again?

I followed this to shorten my sump, it takes 3.5litres to fill up to max mark. Standard capacity is 3.6 I believe. 12 years on the road and no probs.

Thats pretty much the same as my setup, swirl pot in tank(but on left side), pump prefilter, high pressue filter (near engine), return to tank but directed to pot to help avoid fuel starvation when low(pot on left?). If you touch the hose and it splutters, could be a hose issue, changing the hose should be quick and cheap.

Personally I wouldn't use preinsultated terminals, they are not as strong or reliable as a professional F crimp.