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elgey7

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About elgey7

  • Rank
    Getting there Builder
  • Birthday 09/11/1949

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    2B - SS - Wishbone - Pinto 2ltr.
  • Full name
    Colin Elgey

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ayrshire Scotland
  1. Thanks guys I thought it was odd the fact that they were offset as per the front. I don't supose it matters so long as i bolt them centered. How did you guys overcome the 20mm center hole in the arm? re the price They coat me £15 the pair When I converted my fronts some time ago I made them & welded them up myself. Not that impressed with the GBS ones they need washers/spacers.
  2. Help please, Anybody got a pic of the RH bottom coilover bracket showing it fitted to a 2b? I just got a pair orf brackets from GBS to fit my new GAZ coil overs and the brackets are offset - which way round? By the way the reason I am replacing them is cos one of my zimmerides snapped on the road - very scary! SNapped clean off by the bottom pin - oil every where! Be warned all still using them. Colin
  3. elgey7

    Hydraulic Clutch

    These are concentric hydraulic bearings. They are a good solution and are available for type9 boxes. However they are quite expensive & you need the box out to fit them. I'm looking for a simple hydraulic alternative to my cable. Someone out there must have had a go an hydraulic slave cylinder conversion? thanks Colin
  4. Looking for some advice re Hydraulic clutch conversions to Pinto / Typ9 box. Has anyone out there done this? What's the best way? I was thinking of fitting a Wilwood pull type slave cylinder in place of the cable. I read on somewhere that Dredd was trying to do this? I also believe that the rally boys sometimes use a clutch conversion kit from PeFab (I think) which uses a standard type cylinder. The problem here is that the bellhousing needs removed to be drilled. Can anybody help Many thanks Colin 2b+ Scotland.
  5. Simon many thanks for your set up process. I found a major problem last night which would explain a lot. I was concerned when i fitted the carbs about the type of o ring seals I received. The seals I got with the carbs were the plastic spacer type with the seperate o rings. When I fitted them the o rings looked a bit on the large size but I got them in OK. Last night I took the carbs off the manifold and as I did I found the o rings to now be 25% bigger in diameter as they fell out. These must have been made of crap since they had swollen dramatically with the fuel. Everyone of them was the same they felt like jelly to touch!!! Luckily since I was concerned about these to start with I ordered a set of the molded to metal type which looked like a pair of specs. I fitted these and bingo. No more inlet popping at light throttle. I need to reset the idle mix screws now so your information is timely. A lesson for other members here - watch out for cheap non fuel resistant o rings! Even though they may be supplied new with carbs. Thanks again. Colin
  6. Update - Thanks for all the advice so far. I now have fixed: the Exhaust leaks, Re packed my box, Vac leaks, Balanced the throttles, set the idle mix screws and now modyfied the disti mech advance curve per the NW club. I am just about there. I have zero exhaust popping on the overrun (better than it was with my DGAS) Power is much better than I expected. Economy is down a little but nowhere near as much as I was led to believe. So I'm happy - well not quite ! I have the odd random inlet spit back poping when doing 30 at around 1500 when just lightly touching the throttle. I'm pretty sure the idle mix screws are OK now. As anyone anthing to suggest that might cure this? All I am reading suggests too lean at but I don't think this is the case. If it is too lean why does this cause spitting back? By the way do not set DCOE 45 152 carbs per most instruction you read on the web. The idle mix screws need to be out 3.5 turns as a starting point not as the older carbs which start at 1.5. This issue caused me big problems until I found an american web site which gave the correct procedure and starting point for adjusting 152's. Choke 36, Main 145, Air Correctors 185 (were 155), Emulsions F16, Idle 50f9 Thanks again Colin
  7. Shane I have fitted one to my 2b I got fed up with the floor one & did't want to loose the space in the centre console. It came of a Jag xj6. I used a single short handbrake cable to the underside & made a mechanical linkage to connect to the existing cable. I did try a citreon 2cv one but its a very course ratchet. I also had to modify the Jag handle by turning it about 90deg. Hope this helps. Colin
  8. elgey7

    Any Ideas?

    Another common reason for the voltage stability issue is caused by 1 of the 6 rectifying diodes in the alternator being short circuit. This has the effect of not fully rectifying the 3 phase AC of the Stator to DC. The end result is an AC (or neg pulse) on top of your DC. this could not hell out of your tacho - more pulses! Mick is correct the normal regulated alternator voltage is commonly 14.2 if 1 diode has gone you will not reach this value. Regards Colin
  9. Many thanks for all the information It's funny how another day always lets you look at problems differently and sometimes better. I went into the garage tonight and started again! I instantly realised that the throttle linkage rod was pulling on the butterflies especially on the front set. I released it & re-balanced the back & front. This meant it was a simple case of the front to throttles not being fully closed. Hence when I was taking my foot off it was still letting air/fuel in, the result - exhaust popping. The differnce was amazing and the popping has gone. (or should I say no different than with the old DGAS). The car drives so much better I had a big smile on my face tonight. Once again thanks for the advice. There is a lesson here - I don't know how many times I read ' make sure the throttles are closed & balanced' Simon thank you - I am still very interested to get the set up info you have, including the timing curves. Regards Colin
  10. elgey7

    Any Ideas?

    A seized or tight water pump would explain all your problems. Colin
  11. I just spent my hard earned cash on twin weber 45's 152's for my pinto which has been running on a DGAS. I am having the normal problems - setting the idle mix, exhaust popping, balance etc. I am getting there, slowly, but my question is: do I run vacuum or not? It is an injection head with a std inj cam. I believe the static (idle) timing is to be 12 deg (vac disconnected) & the max advance to be 35deg @ 3500. Does this mean that the static timing with vacuum on at idle would be 12+the 15 of vac = 27deg? I am correct or missing something? What's the advice - use the std vac distributor or get (or mod) a new curve without vac? Also does repacking the exhaust help reduce the overrun popping? Jim - I've read your many posts about keeping away from Twin Webers on a pinto I feel like a victim. However I hope you can help me resolve my problems. Thanks Colin
  12. elgey7

    Servo Removal

    Thanks for the replies everyone, however my master cylinder is not the same fixing as the servo. The MC bolt pitch is smaller & too close to drill additonal holes. Looks like I'll need to make a plate or get a MC with diference bolt hole layout. Somebody must have done this. My MC is a standard Sierra, have you something different. I don't like the idea of drilling new holes so close to the existing ones. It would also mean bending the pedal box to get the 10mm holes to match the MC. I ordered the rod from Tiger and would like to go ahead & remove the servo. Thanks & Regards Colin
  13. elgey7

    Servo Removal

    Can anyone show me pictures of how they mounted the master cylinder after removal of the servo? The master cylinder mounting holes are just off the servo mounting holes. It looks like it needs some sort of plate making. Can anyone share how they did this? regards Colin
  14. Another Hood rolls out of the production line. Colin
  15. elgey7

    Pinto Heater Pipe.

    If you run a Pinto without a heater can you blank off the heater pipe at the manifold and water pump ends instead of looping it ? Does anyone run their's like this? Would it cause any cooling problems? I don't see the point of having a length of heater pipe doing nothing! Thanks Colin
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