Bob Tucker

Its an absoluter PI55ER isnt it? I'm in the same boat, but I'm waiting to see if its delayed before I get rid of the car. Me & my son put heart and soul into building it, and it will be devastating to have to part with it. But I'm also looking at "legal loopholes," given I only live about 1.5 miles inside the M25....

All the right numbers, but not necessarily in the right order....

All the identification letters are capitals, so as its not a D, I'd say it has to be a P so 2.0 unleaded.

https://rimmerbros.com/ItemFiles/Manuals/Kent Cams Fitting and Timing Instructions.pdf

Bars on the brain eh Keith?

Looks and sounds like a great trip, Neil. I cant wait to set off for France in early July, but I am dreading ULEZ expansion as mine doesn't comply.

I expect its just a typo, but its 2 - 3 PSI not bar. Youll blow your carbs apart at 45 PSI!.

This should help... https://nw.rhocar.org/

If there is no resistance to the pedal (does it go all the way to the floor?) theres probably still air in the rear lines or cylinders. The only way I can properly bleed my rear brakes(2B) is to jack the rear of the car as high as possible, otherwise I cant pump out the air in the pipe running from front to back. Pumping just moves the bubble backwards and forwards in the line. Leave it jacked up for an hour or two to get the bubble to the rear. I'd suggest getting a hard pedal without the engine running first, than investigate the air hiss. HTH

I had one car that was simultaneously the best and worst car. It was a Vauxhall FB VX 4/90. Very plush interior, leather seats, velour trim on all doors, stunning paint in creamy white with a red flash along both sides. It was a 1964 model I bought in 1968. It went like stink. 90 bhp back then was a lot. Twin solex carbs, ally head, larger valves than standard, 4 branch exhaust, all standard from the factory. BUT it was based on the standard Victor that had a column change. So they fitted a convoluted linkage to a floor mounted gear lever. Bushings wore out, linkages came undone, rods broke, always at the most inconvenient time leaving you stuck in gear. Including driving to Cornwall on honeymoon. The clutch was a similar design, all rods and linkages that had the same issues. My old mans welding gear never got so much use. It was so close to being a brilliant car, but it let me down so often, I only kept it for a year.

The tread has to be covered when looking directly downwards. Its not a problem if the sidewall bulges a little. Are the wheels youre using 38mm offset (standard)? you can get wheels that are 25mm offset, ie 13mm further in. Maybe you can borrow some for the IVA? Post up a picture so we can take a look.

The axle itself isnt symmetrical to allow the propshaft to be central. The 2 driveshafts are different lengths, but the chassis design should allow for this. Unfortunately, the 2B chassis design and assembly were sometimes a bit "flexible". This is an issue that a few members have spotted in the past. Try a search on the forums. Unfortunately there isnt much you can do about it.

A bad earth could easily cause all the above faults. So start with the cheap and easy fixes. Run a new earth cable from battery terminal directly to the engine block. A jumper cable will do. Also excessive ignition advance can stop the engine turning over. Retard it just a bit if the new earth doesnt solve it.

I think the nickel colooured bracket will bolt to the top of the carb and the outer cable will fit to that. You may also need a hollow bolt with 2 nuts that adjusts the length of the outer cable. Ask webcon if they have an instruction sheet they can send you.

Undo the nut on the end of the spindle, remove the bracket with the slot. Replace it with the bracket that has the quadrant. I cant see from the picture where the outer cable is clamped, but it should be clear once you have it in front of you.

Its important to set the castor equally each side, or you will have a permanent pull to one side. It may even be worth shortening the crush tubes and infilling with a spacer front or back, if possible ,to move the top wishbone backwards or forwards. These chassis were never set up very accurately, so you have to resort to adjusting out any inaccuracies. Dont worry about trying to set up the coilovers identically (see above!) More important is identical ride heights, once the car is on its wheels, or better still setting corner weights once the car is finished. HTH

Are there any spacers/washers between the wishbone bushes and the rectangular chassis cross tubes?

Try to identify the gauge. Most companies will sell you a replacement sender for their gauges. The standard oil pressure switch is just that, either on or off. It switches off at a set pressure, usually 7-10 psi. Try to keep the oil pressure light, its an attention grabber if it comes on while youre driving, while you may miss the gauge dropping to 0 psi! Most engines have a spare tapping where you can fit the oil pressure sender, otherwise just use a T piece.

On my 2B I made a false floor from 3/4 ply and glued carpet on top.....dainty size 7s!

Paul, I agree about the FR32. My engine had bigger inlet valves, ports reshaped to get rid of the inlet hump, twin 40s with 36mm chokes, and the FR32. Its probably a good cam for the Sierra's extra weight, but the Hood could easily have sacrificed a bit of torque in favour of BHP, maybe the FR33, although that states 7500 rpm.

Neil, thats right. The surrey top ended up being 5 separate sections.

Its not polycarbonate (solid) sheet. I used flexible translucent plastic sheet from somewhere like toolstation or screwfix. Sort of thing you can use for tent groundsheets, or vapour barrier.

I got a sail maker to help with my surrey top. His top tip is to mock it up using sections made of clear plastic sheet ducktaped together so you can see fitting locations etc underneath. It made it much easier to get an accurate mockup.

This guy knows what hes doing, this is a good summary of tuning a pinto. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/20136-puma-race-engines-ford-pinto-tuning-guide/