Bob Tucker

Also check that you have a GOOD earth from the chassis to the engine.

Hi Delta 2, Tiger have a build factory in Plumstead, South London. I'm sure they'd show you around if you ask nicely.

Robbie, Theres a water pipe that feeds from the top of the water pump. It goes into the heater (if fitted) then into the carb autochoke(if fitted) then back into the manifold, and into the head via a rectangular port smack bang in the centre of the head between the 4 inlet ports. If youve blocked off the water pump thermostat bypass & the rectangular hole into the head, that will account for it overheating, & if your port gaskets are faulty, then it will let the water back out of the trumpets. My Weber manifold has a short tube screwed into the flange, where the pipe goes. Take a look at some of the engine build pictures for more details. HTH Bob

Hi Kevin, the diff you need for accelaration is the 3.92. For some odd reason t was fitted to some 2.0 injection models. BUT if you plan on long distance motorway trips it gets pretty wearing. at 70 MPH with a 5 speed box its doing abut 3200 revs. The 3.62 at 70 is doing aout 2700. Check the VIN plate or the tag on one of the diff bolts to confirm the ratio. Theres a series of codes which was on one of the sites (cant remember where) Most other models of 1,8 & 2 litre had the 3.62 diff. I dont know about the 1.6. HTH Bob.

Well done John.... Its a great feeling driving it home after an SVA pass isn't it? Hope to meet up with you again, & the car, at some of the shows.. Donington perhaps? Bob Tucker

Hi Ian, No. Both ends of the spring have stayed put over 2000 miles. I kept the rubber spring caps which seat in the McP struts. You could drill a hole in the cup & A frame & fit a tie wrap or jubilee clip to keep the spring away from the halfshaft.

Theres also (there should be!) a non return valve in the pipe.....

Hi Ian, I had this problem on one side with standard Sierra springs & shockers. The solution (Honestly!) was to whack the spring away from the drive shaft with a big mallet. Theres some play in the McP cup at the top & lots in the A frame, theres now about 3/4 inch gap. . I painted the drive shaft to check, & no more scuff marks. Cheers, Bob the Basher

Reminds me of a time long past when I ran a Lambretta (I also ran several 650 BSAs) so dont call me a mod... The Lambretta was stripped of all bodywork & I took the girlfriend to see her brother, a trip of about 30 miles. After about 2 miles we spluttered to a halt, got off, looked around, found nothing, but it started again after a bit of persuasion. Another few miles, same again, then repeated every few miles till we arrived an hour late. When we went indoors, the girlfriend shrieked....one leg of her flared trousers had a dozen dirty, oily, petrol smelling circles....the leg next to the open carb intake, which had repeatedly sucked her trousers in & choked the engine. She got her own back by marrying me....

There have been cases of cloning, especially with the London congestion charging. Spot a similar car, type & colour, get a set of plates made up & they get the ticket, not you. That's why its such a pain getting new plates made up now, but all in a good cause.

When SVA first came out, the price of old Duttons shot through the roof. Anyone guess why? Yep, already registered Duttons suddenly began to look like other more recent 7s. A quick notification of engine change to DVLA, put the Dutton VIN and number plate on your new car & who's any the wiser when you scrap the Dutton & sell the parts on?. Definitely illegal tho....

Hi Graham, I do indeed live near Bromley & I avoid it whenever possible because of traffic problems any day of the week. But I have got hold of an exhibitors ticket and intend to get there early on Sunday weather permitting. The only advice I can offer is that there is a back entrance to the park in Hayes Lane which is less well known, but you are still stuck with J4 M25 then A21 to get anywhere near Bromley anyway. You can get closer coming via Biggin Hill, (M25 J6 then A25) but its pretty roundabout & you'd have to work out your own route. Hope to see some of you there. Cheers, Bob. The following may help a bit.... http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?cli...=true&advanced=

Hi Jim, The side screens can just be "wangled" under the roll bar, and fit between the rear cross braces. The bottom sits on the boot lid & the top sits on the headrests. They cant get out of the sides, or the back. You can use bungees to stop them flapping. I've just done about 800 miles to LeMans, Loire valley & an airshow in Paris over the last 2 weeks. They stayed in place no problem at some silly speeds. Bob (now pronounced "Berb")

Hi Guys, I used two small but very bright LEDs which fit into the steering column shroud. They are run from the dash wiring to the instrument pod indicator light. Best of all, the standard wiring seems to switch +ve & -ve depending on right or left, & the LEDs only work one way round. So I have both a left & right indicator light. Cheers Bob, (non-Leccy)

I got a length of 19.2 MM water pipe from Halfords. It comes in rolls so its already curved to roughly dash shape. Slit it as required, put double sided sticky tape on the dashboard edge & push it on. If necessary put edge trim on the dash first to stick the tape to. I passed SVA at Gillingham that way. Bob

Just to add to Mick's reply, Bob (the other one) can also polish them for you and drill the two fixing holes...dunno the cost. But you can use 800 then 1000 or 1200 wet & dry lubricated with Brasso or similar followed by Solvol Autosol to get a mirror finish. Or buy a polishing kit at the shows... Theres a piccy of my pillars on the Yahoo Photos site as follows.... http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/robin...rc=gr%26.view=t Cheers, Bob T.

You need a Type 9 gearbox, where reverse is left & forward. I think some Grannys had the MT 75 box, where reverse is right & back. They are physically bigger, can be fitted but require some major mods. Stick with a Type 9 for (relative!!) simplicity. Bob.

I didnt fancy drilling holes into the side panels, so I made up an L shaped bracket which goes under the car & bolts to the square chassis plate, then goes vertical about 1 inch away from the body side, then two Mini bobbins to the silencer bracket. Bob

Hi John, to add a few things to our previous emails re DGAS setups.... I have a single fuel pipe (no return) and use a Filter King combined filter & pressure regulator. Bob.

The bigger motor factors carry them....I paid £3 for one recently.

Also worth checking out the yellow cam gear on the clutch pedal. If youve lost a tooth you wont be getting full travel. Bob

OK I'll own up too... I just replaced the noisy RHE exhaust with a quiet baffled one made in real stainless. It looked so good I left off my patented Woolies Washing Basket. Then I went to Sainsburys wearing shorts, posed a bit, stuck my leg on the new silencer, hopped about a bit, spent an hour in casualty last night, then fitted the Woolies Washing Basket back on today partly to cover up the burnt skin left on it. Say after me....baffled silencers get MUCH hotter than absorption boxes Bob

The trick with the V5 is to get the Sierra registered in your name, complete the SORN forms, advising Swansea of an engine change in the Sierra. Keep the V5 even after you scrap the Sierra. Take it along to SVA, they'll keep it when you register the Hood, and give you an unissued age related number, ie donor had an F reg, you get an F reg, but not the same one. Cheers, Bob

Hi Doh... A 2B is fine as a fun car for track days etc, but it is quite a bit heavier than many other 7s. If you're talking about serious competitive track use, I'd suggest leaving the 2B. Comparative weights are 710 kilos for my bare bones 2b, no screen, no heater at SVA, against Caterhams from 450-550. I'd imagine Westfields Tigers & others can also boast similar weights. But if you want a good solid road car the 2B is a winner. Just something to be aware of. HTH Bob.

Hi Jim, I took SVA at Gillingham & accompanied two others on their tests. One tester (Geoff ) insisted on seeing a V5 to check engine age. Another one, Dave, accepted a letter from Ford Technical confirming the origin and manufacture date of a particular engine no. If you cant prduce one or the other they will use current emmissions levels & a Pinto cant get anywhere near them. Make sure you take some proof with you......can you get the V5 back? Apart from that the testers are really helpful & explain why things have failed, and detail what they would expect to see before passing the car. Good Luck!!! Bob