Bob Tucker

Hi Chris, I had the same problem & fitted some D shaped hollow rubber tube to the top of the windscreen frame. Works a treat. Bob.

Guys, Bob at RS Jigtec can supply stainless pillars. Price is about £25 I think? www.rsjigtec.com Bob

Hiya John, I run a 2.0, FR32 cam & big inlet valve head. I had a DGAS set up on a rolling road & the final sizes were... 2B settings 2.3 V6 settings 3.0 GT Capri Main 155 135 145 Air corrector 185 185 185 Emulsion tube f50 f50 f50 pump jet 70 55 70 needle valve 2.5 ?? 2.5 idle jet 45 50 45 For lower states of tune, I'd come down on the main jet say 142 or 145 These may not be perfect, but they'll get you up & running. HTH Bob

Chris, thanks for sharing! so in the spirit of admitted idiocy, try this... A good example... Does anyone recall seeing a program on F1 when our Damon wor nowt burra lad? They sat him in a bare F1 tub, on a big plastic bag, which came up his back & filled it with expanding foam to give them the shape for his seat. A not so good example..... I built a boat once, from a bare fibreglass hull, fitted it out inside with hardwood ribs & formers & an inner skin of marine ply (very expensive stuff!!). Cafefully glued with Cascamite & brass screws, it took 9 months, including 6 coats of yacht varnish, & rubbing down. A work of art..a thing of beauty... To add bouyancy, (anyone ahead of me here?) we then filled the side cavities with mixed foam ingredients, after carefully estimating what it would expand to... Guessed it yet? Yup, we sat horrified as the foam expanded from the rear of the boat, along the side skin, pushing off the inner (very expensive) skin as it worked its way forward, popping all the brass screws as it went. Also, the foam is very very sticky. It took 3 weeks to clean it off the fibreglass, the skin was ruined (bin job) and the formers had to be cut out & replaced because the screws had to match the other side & there were broken brass screws or big 'oles where they had to go. The only place for foam is on a Cappucino... Bob

Hi Dave, Cant make out which panel it is, but if it's stainless, forget it. Any attempt will make it look much worse. Either live with it or replace the panel...if it's a side panel it's £75! (But take a look at the large number of 2Bs with union jack flags just where a ding may be hidden!) If its mild steel, place a heavy flat object (club hammer head etc) behind it & tap it carefully around the ding as well as the ding itself. Make sure that any remaining dent is inward, then use filler, soapy water & successively finer grades of wet & dry before priming & spraying. Most Haynes manuals have a short pictorial guide which is really useful. Or watch "A car is re-born" where Mark drops an Oxy cylinder on his E type's new rear wing!! Or your local library. Hope something here helps..If you end up buying a new panel, just think how usefull all that stainless steel will be for patching up holes, lining the boot interior, making up P clips etc. Just dont ask how I know..... Bob T.

There is another way you know.... I cut off 3" from the roll bar to fit the demon RHE coilovers.... which turned out to be:-- too long too soft (springs) no absorbtion (shocker) ...... So I reverted to standard rear springs & new std shockers, but now the rollbar was too short. I couldn't get same size tube, so I carefully ground off the spring seat from the McP strut, which sat about 2/3 of the way along it, & re-welded it about 1" from the end of the strut. It also meant that the spring was loose at full droop, so I made up new shocker top brackets which raised the upper eye, effectively shortening the shocker & keeping the spring firmly in place at full droop. Works a treat. I'll post a pic on the YAHOO site later today. http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/robin...case.yahoo.com/ Bob T.

Dont forget that skimming the head will bu**er the cam timing. You will need a vernier (adjustable) cam pulley. Any tuner can supply them, Vulcan, Burton or Rally Design are good start points. Bob.

Hi Trevor, I give Euro engines the thumbs up. I already had a recon short engine, but got a stage 2 head & FR32 cam from them. They fitted the cam & set the clearances at no extra charge. The car goes like stink now with twin 40s. From memory, I think I dealt with Mark. Bob Tucker.

Hi Paul, the requirement is that the springs are still firmly located with the rear suspension at full droop. I had to make up a new top bracket for the standard Sierra shocker otherwise the spring was loose. They checked this point carefully at SVA. Bob.

Guys, the base sizes for the DGV & the DGAS are the same. They are different from all other Sierra fit Webers, which are smaller. The good news is that the DGV was fitted to early Sierras, Late Cortinas & Capris which had Pinto engines. Ask at your scrappy for a big base Weber manifold for a Pinto. The manifold will have takeoff points for all the connections you need just take the fittings off your existing mainifold & fit in place of the blanking plugs in the DGV manifold. The operating linkage will need a little thought & ingenuity, but easily done. The transformation with a DGAS will amaze you, but it certainly isnt up to twin 40s, but you can get 30mpg plus rather than 16 if pushing hard with twin 40s!!! Go for it! Bob T.

Hi Phil, Yep, Richard's little helper can be used successfully on the bottom tub & the side wings of the Recaros....just pad it with softwood before attacking it. Be careful about removing the plastic caps. The seat belt will run past the metal remains & chafe if you're not careful. Not only an SVA fail, but potentially life threatening. PS....the exhaust wrap has disappeared in the gloomy recesses of my garage, so I still have it. I'll dig it out when I get back from holiday & email you off group. Cheers, Bob.

Hi Chris, a couple of things to remember..... Keep the donor's V5....dont tell DVLA the Sierra is scrapped until after you get the 2B SVA'd. Get the Sierra registered in your name, but make sure you declare SORN at the same time. When you decide which engine you are going to use, tell DVLA that you have changed the engine in the SIERRA, and give them the new engine no. You'll get a new V5 back which makes SVA & registration a bit easier. Welcome to Loony Land! Bob.

One major area which often gets forgotten is the lower part of the nosecone. Fit an ally plate under the rack mounting plates, back to the radiator, and forward to the lower nose cone. Bob.

My money's on the Phantom Vortex....gorgeous! Bit out of my financial league though, but prettier than any Ferrari or Lambo I've ever seen, with Honda mechanics whatsmore! I did like the Trakstar, having seen the chassis in its very early days, but I'd stick with a Zetec & try & get a lower bonnet line, but that might be difficult. Enviously, Bob.

Be Careful about fitting a Honda VTEC.....I have heard they rotate anti-clockwise. That will give you one forward & 5 reverse gears . The K series is a common fit to a Sierra box (even Caterham managed to do it!) But other suppliers also offer cheaper bellhousings. Cheapest way out for 130bhp would be a mildy tuned 2 litre Pinto. Stick with a DGV or preferably a DGAS for reasonable economy & reliability. Check Dave Andrews site for the How To...

Guys, These things are being built in large numbers right now..... to power model jet aircraft. Some loony has already put one on a bike, another one on a go-kart. They use the turbine blade from a turbocharger, then add a hand turned compressor blade, and a combustion chamber. A 5" diameter jet produces over 30 pounds of thrust, at 120,000 rpm and will fly a seven foot wingspan jet model at 230mph......all on diesel fuel. A kit of parts is available at £999 Inc VAT..... Here's one a friend (John Barber) made earlier.... pretty big download, but sounds good. http://www.bumpygreen.co.uk/frames.htm Here's some more general info.... http://www.gtba.cnuce.cnr.it/ Enjoy! Bob.

Cheapest I found was Rally Design. They do a High Pressure, a High Volume, or a HP & HV combined. WWW.RALDES.CO.UK Cheers Bob.

Not as brave as the guy in the hairy Golf GTI who tried taking it on....& failed. His face was a picture. It may be a big ugly duckling, but 168 BHP with FWD is real fun especially with traction control turned off. I love street sleepers!!

Boggie, If you're thinking of travelling that far, try SANSPEED in Bexleyheath too. They're a family owned company been in the tuning business for years. Ask for Peter Sansom (the owner) or his son Graham They are Weber agents, they build & run their own rally cars, and they have a rolling road. They did a great job on my Hood (DGAS carb'd then) & chipping my C5. http://www.sanspeed.co.uk/Default.asp Cheers, Bob

Hi Greg? I wanted to add my son to my insurance, as a thank you for helping me build it. None of the usual companies would insure him at 19. The only company I found who would insure him at 20 yrs old was Graham Sykes with Sabre insurance. Costta Lotta Munney tho'.... But his 20th birthday was on May 5th last year, so he drove us from Kent to Stoneleigh, in the B, in the sunshine, on his birthday. The grin on his face was worth every penny !!! Good luck with it.. Bob

Sorry Daz, we didnt get as far as price....I'm still out of work so I couldnt take on any major upgrades until I am back on the treadmill. Give em a call on Monday....Nice people....!

A P clip selftapped into the cycle wing bracket got me thru SVA. Cheers, Bob.

Not the best picture ever, but it gives some idea.... On the Yahoo 2B groups site, Photos, BT's b. http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/robin...rc=gr%26.view=t Cheers, Bob

If you have O level origami, you can fiddle the side screens under the roll bar on a 2B where they are held in place by the diagonal tubes, and rest against the seat headrests. They can't blow out sideways or backwards, but you can also hold them in place with bungees for extra security. Bob.

Guys I have just been offered a Toyota 1600 twin cam engine with cams from RAW Engineering. I can't afford to buy & fit it at the moment but if anyone else is interested, just call S. Pearson on 01384-6366355 (Birmingham area) Cheers, Bob