Bob Tucker

have a look at extending your steering column. The triangular shaft that fits inside the the upper part of the steering column can be slid out a little way It is a tight fit though. Certainly enough to clear the 18mm dash, which would be better than 9mm.

"I keep getting a difference of opinion on it. " Welcome to Robin Hood ownership!! Thats what makes them so interesting....they are all different. Get along to a meet up once we can do that, and you'll see just how many variations there are. There are quite a few very good build blogs on this site. Take the time to do a few searches, & see what others have done.

Take a close look at the picture of the chassis in the video. Its a very early one with parallel centre support bars. Yours is a later one with splayed support bars. Trust us! They are all different. Yours is a close approximation to mine. Once the dash and the bonnet are on you cant see the top chassis rail, or any gaps. Fit the bonnet as it stands. When you get to it, fit the dash with a rubber strip on top of it, right up to the bonnet. Fit a reinforcing bar under the back lip of the bonnet. Dont sweat it.....it will work.

Cant recommend anyone unfortunately, but another blinds company to avoid for exactly the same reason as yours is BLINDSDIRECT.

Dont forget that moving the dummy strut upwards will also increase any positive camber because its at an angle in the hub. My wishbone conversion has "ears" welded to the dummy struts. They fit inside the slit in the hub, and are drilled so the bolt goes through it as a positive lock in case the bolt comes loose.

Still cant post phone pics...theyre too big. Ill see if I can find a camera! I had to fit a reinforcing bar under the bonnet. I just used 1/8 x 1inch mild steel bar fixed with No more Nails. Still there after 20 years.

Just double checked mine as its stripped down to fit a recon Redtop. The dash protrudes exactly one inch above the dash chassis tube at the top and at the side its 1/2 inch at the top tapering down to zero at the cockpit side. I'll try to post pics.

thats correct. It allows the alligator bonnet to open. The dashboard fills most of the gap, and a rubber seal (from the Sierra) attaches to the top of the dash and fills the rest. HTH

depends on what else you have done to the engine, but a good start for an otherwise standard engine is a Kent FR32, or a Piper 285. But they will work better with twin carbs, and modified head.

I reckon you may struggle. Ask whoever you bought the car from, or try Wolfrace UK direct and send them that picture.

The timing from a standard cam pulley is not likely to be the best all round setting. My experience having vernier pulleys on a redtop is that once when the timing slipped on the inlet cam it became retarded. The engine was totally flat. It did'nt misfire, but it had lost lots of power. Once I had reset it, the engine became more cammy, lots more grunt. Its an interference engine so I didnt experiment any more. From the rolling road sessions I have had on several cars, the operators will always swing the cam pulley a little way in each direction, to find the best setting. Generally a little advanced from standard will get more top end power at the expense of some lower torque, and the pinto is a non interference engine, so its safe to play a bit.

Hi Peter, the E6 is a 5 speed type 9 box. It has modified gears and is uprated to handle higher HP & torque. I bought mine 8 years ago, so prices will have changed since then. Their current specs and prices are on the link I posted.

Injectors jammed open?

An uprated 1st gear is a very good idea. I have a BGH E6 gearbox, & its one of the best changes I made to the car. http://www.bghgeartech.co.uk/ They also supply gear kits to your spec. Well worth a call, they are serious kit car modifying guys, not just a business. The owner designed the 6 speed Caterham box.

Lift the panel up if you can otherwise your fixing method will show on the outside of the car. If your screws/rivets are at the top of the tube your boot covering will mask it. Ive shrunk my pics as far as possible but it wont let me post them. Sorry.

The red line is right now. The semi circle cutout needs to be central in the tight 180 degree bend. Maca's video above helps a bit.

I'm out in the garage tomorrow, ill try to take some pics and save thousands of misleading words!

Hi James, in case you havent got the laughable videos, one of our members, Ivan, took the time to upload them to youtube, the first one is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoXGacMEi-E&list=PL9qrNZjmGh8M7oESfvvuf3bIBqoyvnsen&index=16 You can follow the others from it. Somewhere there is an index, but I cant find it. Your red line is correct at the top, but your red line and the return should stay parallel to the side of the panel. I used a length of scaffold pole, clamped the edge to it and rolled it round the pole right back on itself. The bigger curve can be bent by hand carefully. The side panels can easily be bent wrongly resulting in an ugly crescent shaped dimple. The key seems to be to pack out the bottom and/or top of the panel above or below the chassis rails so it is stretched exactly flat from bottom to top. If it is allowed to bow, it will distort when you try to bend the top inwards. More info here..especially under build tips. https://nw.rhocar.org/ HTH Bob

Hi, this group is probably the best source of building advice for any kitcars. The club has been running for decades, and we will have come across any problem you are likely to find. Being in Ashford, you will be able to use Gillingham IVA station. They are one of the best. They will offer advice over the phone while you build, and they are prepared to tell you exactly what to do to fix anything they need to fail during the test. What model of RH have you bought?

These may help..... https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1605&products_id=11857 Run a search on here for "cycle wings" plenty of hints & tips.

According to Burtons, the head needs machining to fit new guides. To be honest any good machining shop will be able to do it. You could even buy your own guides & get them to fit them. But make sure they are worn enough to justify it. I dont know of any pintos that have needed to be done. Usually replacing the oil seals will stop any smoking. What symptoms has the engine got to make you believe they need replacing?? https://www.burtonpower.com/valve-guide-cast-iron-inlet-exhaust-fp380.html

Well done....it will be well worth the struggle.

Port and starboard Bob.....easy for a pilot of a jumbo jet, but model aircraft are much more difficult. For example, if its upside down and coming towards you... The elevator is reversed, the ailerons are reversed, and the rudder is reversed. If its right side up coming towards you, elevator is normal, rudder and ailerons are both reversed. If its upside down going away, elevator is reversed, ailerons are normal, rudder is reversed. Port and starboard are minor considerations trying to get a 70 year old brain working all that out in milliseconds. Thats why I build so many..

Is that standing in front of it? or driving it?