Bob Tucker

I had one of the first Sierras to come off the line as a company car. Constant misfire at 85 mph in top. I asked Ford to check every month for the first 6 months I had it, and at every service afterwards, but they "couldnt replicate the fault" I got used to getting to 85, felt the misfire, lifted off a bit and cruised at about 75 - 80. 3 years later the car went to my local non-ford garage & asked them to check the misfire. 2 days later, I was driving home from work very late around 11pm, pretty tired, on the A2 & was surprised to see blue flashing lights behind me. They informed me I had been clocked for 2 miles at 106. The garage had replaced the HT leads & fixed the misfire without telling me. 3 months ban. Same car, couldnt get 1st or 2nd with a cold engine. Ford changed the clutch quadrant, the clutch cable, the clutch plate & cover plate. No better. Eventually they changed the sporty short gear lever for a 2 ft long monstrosity.....but it worked.

Just double check which model you have. They came in a variety of specs. You need max 5psi, preferably 4psi. Or check with a pressure gauge.

I used a cube facet with twin 40s without a regulator. But I had to replace it with a cylindrical Facet, that put out too much pressure, so I fitted a Filter King, and set the pressure to 5lbs which seems OK.

That looks really good.

I wish I'd seen that before I wrecked the first 2 sides !!! It also answers your question about the rear axle being in the way. https://nw.rhocar.org/side_panels.htm https://nw.rhocar.org/

Thats good news. Just one word of advice/warning. The stainless side panels can easily buckle if they are not fitted correctly. The key seems to be to space out the panel from the side chassis rail top and bottom immediately in front of the the seat area, so it is dead straight, not at all curved. Research it more on the website, my memory wont stretch back 20 years, but i do remember having to buy 2 replacement side panels!!!

Also try A-plan, they have consistently come up with good prices for me. Wonderful looking car by the way...! Even if it does sound like a Luftwaffe fighter....or two.

Kent's FR32 and Piper's 285 are a good choice for either an unmodified or warmed over engine. The twin 40s will make the most of the cam, but it will work well provided you have a decent carb, eg Weber 32/36. Personally I wouldnt buy a used cam. You have no idea how used/abused it has been. The camshaft has to be removed from the back of the head, meaning taking the head off, so you need new bolts and gaskets anyway.

Just measure from the top of the piston to the top of the gudgeon pin/ wrist pin/ little end (name depends on your age/location!) So long as they are all the same you "should" be ok. Go with Ians recommendations. I dont recall my Pinto measurements. Ive recently been building engines with 4.6 inch bores (598 cu in, 10 litres) so my ring gaps wont help you.

I'd go back to your machine shop. You need the +0.50 rings. Im surprised the correct rings werent included with the pistons. You need to gap all new rings anyway. Check Youtube for how to do it.

If you need one rear panel and 2 side panels isnt that £360 inc. vat? (120+90+90) + 20%vat (£60)

My typing is getting slower......maybe im getting old... Also the 400mm measurement is from the widest part of the car, ie the REAR wings, not the front.

https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/930247/individual-vehicle-approval-inspection-manual-passenger-vehicles.pdf https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass/individual-vehicle-approval-iva-for-cars-help-to-get-a-pass#headlampaim

The front indicators need to be visible from certain angles. The westfield site used to list them, but they are no longer there. Best bet is to search out a downloadable IVA manual....they do exist. PISTONHEADS is a good resource. Also if you check almost any picture of a 7 type car you'll see the front indicators have to be extended on stalks to meet the requirements.

A small amount of toe-in can also help self-centreing if you cant increase caster.

The pinto is a non interference engine. If the cam belt snaps, the pistons wont hit the valves at any rotation. Check the pistons for any valve cutouts (cant remember my old pinto details), and see how far the pistons are below the deck block. Also dont forget the thickness of the head gasket. There are tips on youtube

Ive got a diy plywood boot lid, covered in vinyl, with a lock like this where the tongue goes under the edge of the body panel, and above the upper chassis tube. It should be possible to do summat similar on the zero chassis/body. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/camlocks/1929654?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Security_%26_Ironmongery_Whoop-_-Camlocks_Whoop+(2)-_-1929654&matchtype=&pla-529537852232&gclid=Cj0KCQjwit_8BRCoARIsAIx3Rj66eeBTztBkyn-sZrV1kJQ9le2Zsiok42uHQC3LZLIvukZQSFbpe7YaApfOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=25524

The 38 DGAS is a very good carb on a warm pinto. Problem is they are mostly 30+ years old so the brass bushings on the butterfly rods can be worn and cause air leaks. There lots of info out there, eg.... http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=97348

If the joint is OK you can just replace the rubber boot without removing the joint. Check the sizes against your ball joint. These fitted the Astra ball joints on my 2B. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Advantage-Universal-Neoprene-Cover-Boots/dp/B08374ZNVT/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=track+rod+ball+joint+boots&qid=1602789988&quartzVehicle=845-901&replacementKeywords=rod+ball+joint+boots&sr=8-10

Hiya, the vernier cams only adjust the timing of the camshafts, not the ignition timing. Be very careful if they are set up wrong. They could cause the valves to hit the pistons. Get them set to the figure given by the cam supplier. 16 degrees at idle is too far advanced. I dont know the exact figure but 10 degrees is about right, give or take 2. The ECU will control ignition advance from idle to max advance. Sorry, I dont know how the MBE sets idle timing. I'd recommend a rolling road session to get it all set up correctly.

How about some kind of friction hinge that stays where its put? https://www.google.com/search?q=small+friction+hinge&newwindow=1&client=avg&hl=en&sxsrf=ALeKk03cz_OWFA3PoSWuUsn2Mgt9dY_S-g:1602415888876&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiz2dquuKzsAhVIXMAKHaIrD1sQ_AUoAnoECDMQBA&biw=1280&bih=578

Rally design carry a good selection, but why not try Dampertech if you have already dealt with them? https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=1153

If possible moving the seat back a little will help.

What pedal system do you have? Do you have a return spring on the pedal?. The calipers themselves wont have enough back pressure to return the pedal.