Jump to content

Mike G

Community user
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Mike G

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 10/31/1944

Previous Fields

  • Car type
  • Full name
    Mike Gouldsborough

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kimpton, Herts
  • Interests
    DIY, car mechanics, gardening (limited)
  1. Having just sold my Exmo to a guy living in Norwich, I thought it might be a good idea to promote the club to him. Can anyone tell me about the nearest regular meeting in the Norwich area, and I will pass the info on to the guy? Cheers Mike G
  2. Hi guys Sold the Exmo, and bought a Marlin - sorry my allegiance has slipped. Still a member of RHOCAR though! The new car has a Cortina Pinto 2000 with a 'leaded' head (squirt a Castrol super goo into petrol tank on each fill-up). The previous owner fitted a carb from a 3 litre Granada, and I think a Piper camshaft (don't know what model or stage of tune). It also has a bolt-on Mobelec 130 electronic ignition package if that rings any bells with anyone. The problem I want to fix is that the engine sometimes 'runs on' for 5 seconds on so when I turn it off. No obvious cause. Spark plugs look sooty if anything, and no symptons of overheating. Any ideas guys? Cheers Mike G
  3. I have now sold the car to an honest guy from Norwich. Cheers Mike G
  4. Post-script - I thought I had sold the car to someone overseas by e-mail transaction, which turned out to be a scam!! The so-called deal was to accept a cheque for twice the selling price, and pass on the extra dosh to a 'Shipping Company' supposedly to transport the car by ship. The cheque is duff/stolen, and by the time you or your bank realise the money in your bank account is as good as Monopoly, you could be well out of pocket, and the scammer is long-gone! Fortunately for me, I spotted the Met Police's web-site dealing with this and a lot more rip-offs. SO MY EXMO IS STILL FOR SALE. CONTACT ME TO VIEW & TEST-DRIVE IN HERTFORDSHIRE Cheers Mike G
  5. Still in process of seling my Exmo. Potential buyer asked was it possible to fit power steering to my car. He has frozen shoulder problems, and while he loved the car, the amount of effort required to steer at slow speeds was putting him off. Looking in Haynes editions of both Cortina & Sierra shows the pump and multiple pulley arrangement. So it is technically possible, but is there room and are there any serious problems? Anybody tried it? Cheers Mike G
  6. Thanks for the tip. Have just checked out e-Bay and was surprised to see a selection of possibles. Don't know whether mine is cable or electrically operated until I get home. Certainly seems a cheaper alternative than buying a new dial or getting it re-calibrated. Cheers Mike G
  7. I've got a 6 cylinder rev-counter that ideally should show the revs for a 4 cylinder. Is it just a matter of getting a replacement dial to make it read 4 cylinder revs, and if so - who sells them? or does it need something more technical to be done? Cheers Mike G
  8. I have advertised my car in loads of Internet sites, village corner shop window, office noticeboard, magazines - you name it! Getting lots of enquiries but no cash offers as yet. Would prefer to sell it to a hood enthusiast, so come on guys who wants to make me an offer? Car comes complete with 3 month's MOT and 10 month's Road Tax. Cheers Mike G
  9. ROBIN HOOD EXMO Have loads of fun this Summer and buy my EXMO. New project means my pride & joy needs to be sold, with 4 month's MOT remaining. Everything works, goes and sounds great!!! Built around 1997, based on D-reg Ford Sierra 1600cc Pinto engine & 5-speed gearbox (both reconditioned), independent rear suspension and other Ford mechanicals. Mostly in store for 3 out of first 5 years, travelling only 125 miles in the hands of first owner (supported by MOT certificates). Purchased by me (second owner) in 2002, and since carried out the following improvements:- 1) Fitted Cobra factory seats 2) Fitted 2 new 4-point racing-type harnesses (seat-belts) 3) Fully carpeted the interior 4) Fitted new Caterham sidescreens 5) Fitted ‘Surry’ hood 6) Fitted tonneau cover 7) Improved security and fitting of bonnet, together with stainless steel side-vents Total refurbishment of original twin-choke Weber carburettor, together with conversion to manual choke, plus improvement to air filter arrangements 9) Fitted Alloy wheels & Michelin tyres 10) Constructed lockable boot area (padded & lined) 11) Refurbished brakes, replaced front flexible pipes together with a new front calliper 12) Replaced radiator with larger capacity version, and re-fitted into nosecone 13) Replaced original engine-driven fan with new large diameter electric version (with adjustable thermostat) 14) Fitted new dashboard of burr-maple walnut (replica), with Smith replicas gauges - speedo, rev counter, clock, oil pressure/water temperature/fuel gauges, and warning lights (see photo) 15) Fitted new silencer and pipe ex. Custom Chrome Ltd 16) Insulated exhaust manifold and pipes with heat-insulating bandage 17) Lined bonnet and engine compartment with noise insulation material 18) Replace original anti-roll bar with tie-bars, to improve suspension and handling 19) Replaced factory fuel tank with new polycarbonate version 20) Fitted unique hand-made stainless-steel nosecone grill (see photo) 21) Fitted new windscreen, and raised its position 22) Fitted reconditioned alternator 23) Fitted new petrol pump 24) Fitted new Mountney wooden steering wheel 25) Fitted new tyre to spare-wheel, with PVC cover 26) Replaced loads of odds & ends, including: wooden gear knob, mirrors, arm-rests, latest factory badge on nosecone Colour scheme is Stainless Steel with red fibreglass wings and nosecone. New seats and boot area in black PVC, with dark blue carpetting. All invoices available from Day 1 of original build. Current mileage has just topped 5,400ml (travelling around 1,000ml per year in my ownership) Car can be viewed in Hertfordshire SG4 8EQ Contact me for loads of photos PRICE £3,750 o.ono.
  10. Mike G

    Petrol Freeze-up

    The water-vapour freeze-up makes more sense - probably as a result of contrast between cold & hot surfaces. I've bandaged up the exhaust manifold and pipes, so there isn't a lot of heat coming from that area anymore. To offset hot-weather problems under the bonnet, I also arranged trunking to suck cold air in front of the rad straight to the air filter. Helps to stop over-heating in Summer, but does no good I suspect at this time of year (although judging from my biking days, the engine probably prefers the cold air intake). Think I will pursue my copper pipe idea. Should be a fairly cheap solution if it works! Thanks guys for your help Cheers Mike G
  11. Mike G

    Petrol Freeze-up

    I got rid of the auto-choke when I had the carb rebuilt years ago. When the engine starts to misfire, it doesn't matter what I do with the manual choke knob (excuse the expression!), the misfire continues with lots of smoke out of the silencer until the engine eventually dies. Trying to re-start immediately is a waste of time and battery power. This has happened three times over the past few years, and only occurs when the air temps are below say 6 degrees, and the car has travelled only 2 miles. Parking up for a few minutes (no choice as the engine is dead), I believe the accumulated heat under the bonnet, even after 2 miles, is enough to thaw out whatever area has caused the fuel to 'freeze up'. The engine then starts OK, and will run for the remainder of the journey without a hitch. A possible safe cure I have in mind, is to coil some micro-bore copper tubing inside the air filter, and plumb it into the heater circuit. Advantages are that there will be no electrical element or whatever to ignite fumes, and only works when my feet are cold and I therefore need the heater 'on'. Cheers Mike G
  12. Mike G

    Petrol Freeze-up

    Now that the decent weather is back, and the mornings look brighter, I was tempted to take my Exmo to work. Air temp was in the low single figures centigrade. Car started no trouble, but about 2 miles down the road engine spluttered and eventually ground to a halt in the most inconvenient piece of road. Diagnosed petrol freeze-up (or failure to atomise). With the engine heat and two minutes of going nowhere, the car restarted and did the remaining 20 miles without a problem. This has happened in the past twice before under the same weather conditions. The engine is 1600cc Pinto with twin-choke Weber, with none of the Winter gubbins to suck heat off exhaust (- that's bandaged up, so most of the heat goes out the silencer). I was thinking a small 12 volt element or a headlamp bulb installed in the air filter might provide sufficient heat to overcome this. Anyone sorted this one out? Cheers Mike G
  13. Mike G

    Popping Exhaust

    Thanks Guys It's all a bit of a puzzle! When I replaced the beancan that RH supplied, that rattled with loose baffles and sounded fairly naff, the Custom Chrome one was a real treat, nice sound when accelerating and a constant subdued roar on the overrun. Then after more than 2,000 miles of use, not sure if the regular noise got any louder but on the overrun it gradually got more unacceptable with the popping and gurgling. Driving downhill with very slight pressure on accelerator pedal mostly stopped this, but meant that I ended up going too fast at the bottom! The engine runs a treat, and once the carb is full (drains back during non-use), it re-starts instantly every time - hot or cold, and tickover is reliable and even at about 1000rpm. Fuel consumption is worse than our 2 tin-tops, but then 19 year old technology and aero-dynamics of a brick probably account for most of this. With a 5-speed gearbox, it accelerates up to about 60mph fairly quickly, but after that it tails off, and the typical top speed is probably 75mph @ about 3500 rpm. Can't guarantee the speedo or rev-counter's accuracy, although I suspect the gearing is fairly low. I suppose to improve performance and mpg I could take it to a Rolling Road outfit, who might re-jet it and improve the carb side of things. But this will possibly still not effect a cure, and answer the question as to what happened to cause the change of exhaust overrun 'noise' in the first place? All answers on a postcard to........................ Cheers Mike G
  14. Mike G

    Popping Exhaust

    Hi guys A while ago, I inserted a topic on this subject and received a bunch of replies which was all very helpful. The likely cause of the noisy 'popping & gurgling' on the overun (downhill with foot off accelerator pedal) I concluded was the silencer, i.e. the packing had blown out! Custom Chrome have checked over the silencer and reckon that it has the same amount as when new. They might try to squeeze some more in, but they suggested I look at the fuel side of things. My engine is a 1600cc Pinto, only done 5,000 miles since recon, has a recon 28/30 Weber carb, manual choke, and no obvious gas leaks. I believe all tappet clearances are correct. Big puzzle as to why the problem reared its ugly head over last 500 miles or so. Perfectly OK before that. Anybody got any fresh ideas? Cheers Mike G
  15. In a mad moment a year or two ago, I trekked over to Caterham's at Dartford, and bought a pair of sidescreens - arm & leg job at around £100 each, but well-made. The thing I liked was that they fitted very well at the windscreen end, and the hinges were well-engineered as well. The problem I didn't quite realise until I got them home was that the screens are a shade too short from front to back, and the bulges could have been longer as well. Makes sense when looking at a Caterham, as they are shorter cars than RH ones. Anyway, in true Hoodie tradition, I made up a pair of triangles to finish off the shape at the rear end (where on a Caterham it fits around the wings). I made these of domestic lino tiles (the sticky ones that you remove the backing paper), sticking 2 together per sidescreen. After cutting the triangular shapes roughly to size, I stuck on vinyl sheet (bought from John Lewis - fairly good match to Caterham's stuff). The raw edges I stuck on U-shaped black plastic edging from Woolies. The finished oversized articles I bolted onto the screens with tiny bolts/aero nuts. With a bit of juggling, I fitted the Caterhams hinges without any bother, drilling the necessary holes and using the tiny bolts Caterham supply with the screens. With the screens in place, I trimmed off the surplus lino tiles/vinyl triangles until I was happy that they looked OK and screens opened/closed OK. As a belt & braces, I keep the screens in the closed position with some straps and press-studs, plus tonneau fasteners of the type where you turn part of the fitting through 90 degrees. The end-product has worked well, and nothing has fallen off. Unless you knew, I don't think you would realise the screens came from Caterham. I was lucky that the John Lewis vinyl more or less matched their design, so the bolt-on shapes don't scream as bodge-ups! Cheers Mike G
  • Create New...