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Mike G

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Everything posted by Mike G

  1. Having just sold my Exmo to a guy living in Norwich, I thought it might be a good idea to promote the club to him. Can anyone tell me about the nearest regular meeting in the Norwich area, and I will pass the info on to the guy? Cheers Mike G
  2. Hi guys Sold the Exmo, and bought a Marlin - sorry my allegiance has slipped. Still a member of RHOCAR though! The new car has a Cortina Pinto 2000 with a 'leaded' head (squirt a Castrol super goo into petrol tank on each fill-up). The previous owner fitted a carb from a 3 litre Granada, and I think a Piper camshaft (don't know what model or stage of tune). It also has a bolt-on Mobelec 130 electronic ignition package if that rings any bells with anyone. The problem I want to fix is that the engine sometimes 'runs on' for 5 seconds on so when I turn it off. No obvious cause. Spark plugs look sooty if anything, and no symptons of overheating. Any ideas guys? Cheers Mike G
  3. I have now sold the car to an honest guy from Norwich. Cheers Mike G
  4. Post-script - I thought I had sold the car to someone overseas by e-mail transaction, which turned out to be a scam!! The so-called deal was to accept a cheque for twice the selling price, and pass on the extra dosh to a 'Shipping Company' supposedly to transport the car by ship. The cheque is duff/stolen, and by the time you or your bank realise the money in your bank account is as good as Monopoly, you could be well out of pocket, and the scammer is long-gone! Fortunately for me, I spotted the Met Police's web-site dealing with this and a lot more rip-offs. SO MY EXMO IS STILL FOR SALE. CONTACT ME TO VIEW & TEST-DRIVE IN HERTFORDSHIRE Cheers Mike G
  5. Still in process of seling my Exmo. Potential buyer asked was it possible to fit power steering to my car. He has frozen shoulder problems, and while he loved the car, the amount of effort required to steer at slow speeds was putting him off. Looking in Haynes editions of both Cortina & Sierra shows the pump and multiple pulley arrangement. So it is technically possible, but is there room and are there any serious problems? Anybody tried it? Cheers Mike G
  6. Thanks for the tip. Have just checked out e-Bay and was surprised to see a selection of possibles. Don't know whether mine is cable or electrically operated until I get home. Certainly seems a cheaper alternative than buying a new dial or getting it re-calibrated. Cheers Mike G
  7. I've got a 6 cylinder rev-counter that ideally should show the revs for a 4 cylinder. Is it just a matter of getting a replacement dial to make it read 4 cylinder revs, and if so - who sells them? or does it need something more technical to be done? Cheers Mike G
  8. I have advertised my car in loads of Internet sites, village corner shop window, office noticeboard, magazines - you name it! Getting lots of enquiries but no cash offers as yet. Would prefer to sell it to a hood enthusiast, so come on guys who wants to make me an offer? Car comes complete with 3 month's MOT and 10 month's Road Tax. Cheers Mike G
  9. ROBIN HOOD EXMO Have loads of fun this Summer and buy my EXMO. New project means my pride & joy needs to be sold, with 4 month's MOT remaining. Everything works, goes and sounds great!!! Built around 1997, based on D-reg Ford Sierra 1600cc Pinto engine & 5-speed gearbox (both reconditioned), independent rear suspension and other Ford mechanicals. Mostly in store for 3 out of first 5 years, travelling only 125 miles in the hands of first owner (supported by MOT certificates). Purchased by me (second owner) in 2002, and since carried out the following improvements:- 1) Fitted Cobra factory seats 2) Fitted 2 new 4-point racing-type harnesses (seat-belts) 3) Fully carpeted the interior 4) Fitted new Caterham sidescreens 5) Fitted ‘Surry’ hood 6) Fitted tonneau cover 7) Improved security and fitting of bonnet, together with stainless steel side-vents Total refurbishment of original twin-choke Weber carburettor, together with conversion to manual choke, plus improvement to air filter arrangements 9) Fitted Alloy wheels & Michelin tyres 10) Constructed lockable boot area (padded & lined) 11) Refurbished brakes, replaced front flexible pipes together with a new front calliper 12) Replaced radiator with larger capacity version, and re-fitted into nosecone 13) Replaced original engine-driven fan with new large diameter electric version (with adjustable thermostat) 14) Fitted new dashboard of burr-maple walnut (replica), with Smith replicas gauges - speedo, rev counter, clock, oil pressure/water temperature/fuel gauges, and warning lights (see photo) 15) Fitted new silencer and pipe ex. Custom Chrome Ltd 16) Insulated exhaust manifold and pipes with heat-insulating bandage 17) Lined bonnet and engine compartment with noise insulation material 18) Replace original anti-roll bar with tie-bars, to improve suspension and handling 19) Replaced factory fuel tank with new polycarbonate version 20) Fitted unique hand-made stainless-steel nosecone grill (see photo) 21) Fitted new windscreen, and raised its position 22) Fitted reconditioned alternator 23) Fitted new petrol pump 24) Fitted new Mountney wooden steering wheel 25) Fitted new tyre to spare-wheel, with PVC cover 26) Replaced loads of odds & ends, including: wooden gear knob, mirrors, arm-rests, latest factory badge on nosecone Colour scheme is Stainless Steel with red fibreglass wings and nosecone. New seats and boot area in black PVC, with dark blue carpetting. All invoices available from Day 1 of original build. Current mileage has just topped 5,400ml (travelling around 1,000ml per year in my ownership) Car can be viewed in Hertfordshire SG4 8EQ Contact me for loads of photos PRICE £3,750 o.ono.
  10. Mike G

    Petrol Freeze-up

    The water-vapour freeze-up makes more sense - probably as a result of contrast between cold & hot surfaces. I've bandaged up the exhaust manifold and pipes, so there isn't a lot of heat coming from that area anymore. To offset hot-weather problems under the bonnet, I also arranged trunking to suck cold air in front of the rad straight to the air filter. Helps to stop over-heating in Summer, but does no good I suspect at this time of year (although judging from my biking days, the engine probably prefers the cold air intake). Think I will pursue my copper pipe idea. Should be a fairly cheap solution if it works! Thanks guys for your help Cheers Mike G
  11. Mike G

    Petrol Freeze-up

    I got rid of the auto-choke when I had the carb rebuilt years ago. When the engine starts to misfire, it doesn't matter what I do with the manual choke knob (excuse the expression!), the misfire continues with lots of smoke out of the silencer until the engine eventually dies. Trying to re-start immediately is a waste of time and battery power. This has happened three times over the past few years, and only occurs when the air temps are below say 6 degrees, and the car has travelled only 2 miles. Parking up for a few minutes (no choice as the engine is dead), I believe the accumulated heat under the bonnet, even after 2 miles, is enough to thaw out whatever area has caused the fuel to 'freeze up'. The engine then starts OK, and will run for the remainder of the journey without a hitch. A possible safe cure I have in mind, is to coil some micro-bore copper tubing inside the air filter, and plumb it into the heater circuit. Advantages are that there will be no electrical element or whatever to ignite fumes, and only works when my feet are cold and I therefore need the heater 'on'. Cheers Mike G
  12. Mike G

    Petrol Freeze-up

    Now that the decent weather is back, and the mornings look brighter, I was tempted to take my Exmo to work. Air temp was in the low single figures centigrade. Car started no trouble, but about 2 miles down the road engine spluttered and eventually ground to a halt in the most inconvenient piece of road. Diagnosed petrol freeze-up (or failure to atomise). With the engine heat and two minutes of going nowhere, the car restarted and did the remaining 20 miles without a problem. This has happened in the past twice before under the same weather conditions. The engine is 1600cc Pinto with twin-choke Weber, with none of the Winter gubbins to suck heat off exhaust (- that's bandaged up, so most of the heat goes out the silencer). I was thinking a small 12 volt element or a headlamp bulb installed in the air filter might provide sufficient heat to overcome this. Anyone sorted this one out? Cheers Mike G
  13. Mike G

    Popping Exhaust

    Thanks Guys It's all a bit of a puzzle! When I replaced the beancan that RH supplied, that rattled with loose baffles and sounded fairly naff, the Custom Chrome one was a real treat, nice sound when accelerating and a constant subdued roar on the overrun. Then after more than 2,000 miles of use, not sure if the regular noise got any louder but on the overrun it gradually got more unacceptable with the popping and gurgling. Driving downhill with very slight pressure on accelerator pedal mostly stopped this, but meant that I ended up going too fast at the bottom! The engine runs a treat, and once the carb is full (drains back during non-use), it re-starts instantly every time - hot or cold, and tickover is reliable and even at about 1000rpm. Fuel consumption is worse than our 2 tin-tops, but then 19 year old technology and aero-dynamics of a brick probably account for most of this. With a 5-speed gearbox, it accelerates up to about 60mph fairly quickly, but after that it tails off, and the typical top speed is probably 75mph @ about 3500 rpm. Can't guarantee the speedo or rev-counter's accuracy, although I suspect the gearing is fairly low. I suppose to improve performance and mpg I could take it to a Rolling Road outfit, who might re-jet it and improve the carb side of things. But this will possibly still not effect a cure, and answer the question as to what happened to cause the change of exhaust overrun 'noise' in the first place? All answers on a postcard to........................ Cheers Mike G
  14. Mike G

    Popping Exhaust

    Hi guys A while ago, I inserted a topic on this subject and received a bunch of replies which was all very helpful. The likely cause of the noisy 'popping & gurgling' on the overun (downhill with foot off accelerator pedal) I concluded was the silencer, i.e. the packing had blown out! Custom Chrome have checked over the silencer and reckon that it has the same amount as when new. They might try to squeeze some more in, but they suggested I look at the fuel side of things. My engine is a 1600cc Pinto, only done 5,000 miles since recon, has a recon 28/30 Weber carb, manual choke, and no obvious gas leaks. I believe all tappet clearances are correct. Big puzzle as to why the problem reared its ugly head over last 500 miles or so. Perfectly OK before that. Anybody got any fresh ideas? Cheers Mike G
  15. In a mad moment a year or two ago, I trekked over to Caterham's at Dartford, and bought a pair of sidescreens - arm & leg job at around £100 each, but well-made. The thing I liked was that they fitted very well at the windscreen end, and the hinges were well-engineered as well. The problem I didn't quite realise until I got them home was that the screens are a shade too short from front to back, and the bulges could have been longer as well. Makes sense when looking at a Caterham, as they are shorter cars than RH ones. Anyway, in true Hoodie tradition, I made up a pair of triangles to finish off the shape at the rear end (where on a Caterham it fits around the wings). I made these of domestic lino tiles (the sticky ones that you remove the backing paper), sticking 2 together per sidescreen. After cutting the triangular shapes roughly to size, I stuck on vinyl sheet (bought from John Lewis - fairly good match to Caterham's stuff). The raw edges I stuck on U-shaped black plastic edging from Woolies. The finished oversized articles I bolted onto the screens with tiny bolts/aero nuts. With a bit of juggling, I fitted the Caterhams hinges without any bother, drilling the necessary holes and using the tiny bolts Caterham supply with the screens. With the screens in place, I trimmed off the surplus lino tiles/vinyl triangles until I was happy that they looked OK and screens opened/closed OK. As a belt & braces, I keep the screens in the closed position with some straps and press-studs, plus tonneau fasteners of the type where you turn part of the fitting through 90 degrees. The end-product has worked well, and nothing has fallen off. Unless you knew, I don't think you would realise the screens came from Caterham. I was lucky that the John Lewis vinyl more or less matched their design, so the bolt-on shapes don't scream as bodge-ups! Cheers Mike G
  16. Mike G

    Hot Engine

    I think I have followed the same ideas as suggested in your replies, thanks guys. I have RH slots in the bonnet, plus I fitted fairly large boat-type slots in both sides of bonnet also. I was unsure whether to do the same with the lower areas either side of the engine, as this might weaken the structure. Another idea that crossed my mind is to fabricate or obtain some large diameter flexible trunking, to fit between the front-opening in the nosecone and the electric fan/rad. Anyone got any ideas on this? At present, I have merely blocked off all escape routes for air around the outside edge of the rad. I junked the original pulley-driven fan in favour of a good scrappy electric one on an adjustable thermostat. Maybe I should consider either fitting a second fan on the other side of the rad, with a manual switch to be operated when I am bothered about the temperature gauge reading. OR I noticed in e-bay that some fans are 2-speeds. OR go for an expensive high-efficiency one (last resort!). Cheers Mike G
  17. Mike G

    Speedo Cable

    I had my first cable break after 100 miles, having inheritted the problem form the original builder. On inspecting the cable run, I was not surprised that the cable had died as it was bent a very tight 90 degrees on leaving the gearbox. I resolved this on my Exmo by cutting a 100mm square hatch in the side of the transmission tunnel (and eventually covering hole with a 125mm square patch held on with self-tappers, with a slot on one side to accommodate cable). The cable was original Sierra type, which to make the run sweeter, and use up the spare length, I looped it on the floor through 270 degrees before it disappeared under the dash to the speedo. The carper covers most of it. This mod has now done 4000 miles+. Cheers Mike
  18. Mike G

    Hot Engine

    Hi Guys Now that winter is looming up and air temperatures are dropping, my Exmo is still running hot enough to get the electric fan to stay ON most of the time. While the temperature on the gauge is not going into warp-drive, usually around 190-195 degrees F, I am concerned that this appears to leave nothing in reserve for occasions of queuing in traffic for long periods. The fan is connected to an adjustable thermostat, so I can juggle the switch-on point. The radiator is a fairly new Sierra type, and was built with double internal tubing. However, to fit it in the nosecone, I had to slant it back at around 60 degrees instead of vertical. Also, the stainless suspension cross-member at the front probably blocks off some of the incoming air. I have surrounded the edges of the rad with rubber matting, so 99% of the incoming air should be getting to it. The secondhand fan seems to shift a fair amount of heat, but perhaps I should bite the bullet and buy a new GT one! Anyone got ideas on a good source? Also, any ideas on an electronic temperature gauge to double-check on my dashboard capillary one? Cheers Mike G
  19. Mike G

    Backfire

    Peter You may have seen in a question I put on the site a few weeks back that my Exmo exhaust is becoming louder, with some very audible burbling/crackling noises on the overun. The conclusion appeared to be that the packing in my Custom Chrome silencer had probably been blown out over the 3 years or so of use. Not a good testimonial for the product. The decay may have been speeded up by me covering the pipes with bandage, and making the exhaust gases even hotter! I plan to send the unit back to CC over the winter and get it re-packed at a cost of £25 I think their quote was. I have checked the usual problem areas such as weak mixture and leaks, but didn't find anything wrong there. Cheers Mike G
  20. I persevered with the original s/steel RH tank for ages, and concluded that the pong was coming from where the sender was attached to the tank. The RH arrangement was rubbish, with 4 little threaded studs brazed around the flimsy hole in the top of the tank. It didn't matter what I did to improve the seal, gaskets, goo, you name it, the smell was always there! The previous owner of my Exmo obviously had the same problem, which he tried to resolve by squeezing in black goo everwhere. In my ownership, this resulted in me breaking down on an journey , which after being towed home I discovered was due to a seaweed-like substance in the bottom of the tank being sucked up the pick-up pipe and blocking it. It wasn't seaweed but the blank gunge matey had liberally used! Message: don't use substances not intended to be near petrol. Finally, I junked the s/s tank and fitted a 'plastic' one from N F Auto Developments, and the smell went away! The original Sierra sender fits in the same sort of hole (but more solid), using self-tapping screws and a thick cork gasket. It's been in service for over 2 years, with no pong or leaks evident. Cheers Mike G
  21. Hiya guys Just read the exchanges of ideas, and was pleasantly surprised to see my name appear as the originator of bearing/bush idea. I can vouch for this way of overcoming all of the shortcomings of the RH rubber grommet system. I have now had the bearing on the car for 2-3 years, with no trouble whatsoever, and costing only a tenner it was far less than any other mod I have done to the car. It changed an unsafe dodgy MOT failure, with loads of slack and rattling, into something akin to the rigidity of mass-production cars. Fitting the bearing to my already-completed car required some serious acrobatics to enlargen the hole through the bulkhead, which I managed with stitch-drilling and filing. I had already taken out the driver's seat, and of course the steeering column, which offered me some extra working space. However, on one occasion I had to get my wife to yank me by the legs from under the dash, as I got stuck doing a sort of hand-stand to access the bulkhead!! Some of the filing was possible from the engine side, but working space was even worse there. At the same time as doing this mod I was rebuilding my dash, so I took the opportunity of cutting away some metal to allow the steering column to be raised at the driver's end. This permitted a decent size of steering wheel to be fitted, instead of the little tea-plate sized thing that came with the car. Both old & new were Mountneys, so it was easy to swap over as they both used the same bosses. Cheers Mike Gouldsborough
  22. Thanks Andy It was good that your ideas matched those I have gained from past motors. Thanks for the notes. As this is my first ever Ford engine, I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't some quirky arrangement that would catch me out. The bit that Haynes doesn't make crystal clear is the actual line scribed on the pulley to use with the timing light. There is a selection of lines on mine, which might take some figuring out. First step I think will be to polish all the crap of the pulley, suss out the correct line, and use Tippex on it. Cheers Mike G
  23. Hi Guys I have never had the need to check whether the ignition timing on my Pinto was spot-on, as the engine runs a treat. However, with the popping and gurgling from the silencer on the over-run, advice from some club members is to check whether the ignition is retarded, as well as re-pack the silencer etc etc. My only daily gripe is that the engine runs out of steam at 70mph+, especially up motorway gradients. Aerodynamics of a brick doesn't help that, coupled with 19 year old technology! The engine is a 1600cc Pinto ex D-reg Sierra, with original Weber twin-choke carb, in an Exmo body. Everything is in reconned condition, and engine uses hardly any oil. My Haynes manual is not too helpful, offering a few ideas:- that I could have one of two types of crankshaft pulley with different marks scribed. Also, I should disconnect the vacuum pipe and plug it. I thought clamping the pipe might be better. I didn't want to disturb the present setting until I had a practical procedure to follow. Couldn't find anything in the club archives, so has anyone got any guidance notes to offer? I have an old-style neon timing light, so would the first step be to get a modern replacement? Cheers Mike G
  24. As a follow-up to my previous note, I checked out Aqua-Marine (shown in RHOCAR Parts), who operate under various names within trade circles only. To cut a long story short, they referred me onto this company:- http://www.mailspeedmarine.com who is a retail outlet selling allsorts of marvellous boat stuff. They also do a good range of ventilators as well! Cheers Mike G
  25. Thanks Mitch I thought I had checked out all of these suppliers, but missed Aqua Marine. I am in the process of checking a few details with them, and will insert a follow-up if successful. Cheers Mike G
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