Jump to content

Robbie 2B

Area Secretary
  • Posts

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Robbie 2B

  1. Leon Never got to Dorchester venue due to the flooding in South Devon. Will therefore reschedule the "Dorset" meet for later this month. Propose to have the following meet down your neck of the woods. Best regards Robbie
  2. Hi All A few of the Southwest area members have responded positively to having a meet up this coming Sunday 17 September 2023. The weather in Devon/Dorset region also looks promising. Would there be interest from any neighbouring members to attend? The following location is proposed: Date, time & venue: Sunday 17 September 2023, 12:00, meet up at the Trumpet Major, Alington Ave, Dorchester DT1 2AB. After a bite to eat a run through to the beach at Bowlease Cove could be an option. Anyone else interested let me know or just turn up. Regards Robbie SW Area Sec.
  3. Hi All After sending this out to the members in the South Western region I thought that other areas and community users may be interested. The following meetings are proposed. 1. Date: Sunday 11 June 2023, Time: 12:00, Location: The Windmill Inn, 58 Nore Road, Portishead BS20 6JZ After a bite to eat a run through to Clevedon would be on the agenda. If you want to come along in your tin-top feel free. 2. The Powderham Classic Car gathering is taking place on the 8th & 9th July 2023 at Powderham Castle near Exeter. RHOCaR have been given the opportunity to have a stand at the gathering. For Car Clubs there will be a cost of £17.00 for each vehicle which includes the driver and one passenger. There is also space allocated for a Car Club gazebo. Camping is available on site for Friday & Saturday night, this would have a cost of £40 per pitch. For people not camping the Car Club entry and exit gate will be shut on both days from 10.30 am to 4.30 pm. The event is run by volunteers from the Crash Box & Classic Car Club. Further information can be found on their website: https://historic-vehicle-gathering.info/ Please note that the cost of £17 for car, driver and passenger is significantly less than the entrant fee of £13 per person for each day or £20 weekend pass per person. If anyone is interested in attending as an exhibitor you could let me know and I will include them when I complete and submit the application form. If this could be done prior to 2 June 2023 it would be ideal.. I will complete and submit the form. 3. A further meeting, to take place after the summer holidays, will be posted. This possibly being in the Dorset region to give people in that part of the southwest region a chance to attend. Best regards Robbie (SW Area Sec.)
  4. Yes it is on, will be at the Cat & Fiddle from 12:00.
  5. All are welcome at a Southwest area meet on Saturday 24 September 2022. Location; the Cat & Fiddle in Clyst St Mary which is situated on the A3052 east of Exeter (EX5 1DP). From 12:00 and if there is interest, and the weather is kind, an afternoon run into Sidmouth may be on the cards. All are welcome in car or tin-top. Robbie
  6. Hi John I was at the Powderham Castle historic car show near Exeter on 9 July and was surprised to see a 2B alongside the multitude of other classics. For next year I will try and see if there is any interest of having a group of RHOCaR members attend. I am sure that a group of Hillman Minx's can be easily out-trumped. Regards Robbie
  7. Hi to all, its been a while since my last post. Lock-down modification have started with gearbox swap underway. Due to the location of the Duratec engine being fixed, installing a Mazda MX5 NC (N7) gearbox puts the gear lever location in line with the dash panel. The Mazda MX5 NB gearbox positions the gear lever correctly as the lever is an extra 90 mm away from the bell housing flange. Has anyone changed over the tail part of the gearbox between a NC and NB gearbox or know if it is possible? Any advice gratefully received. Many thanks in advance Robbie
  8. Tim Many thanks for the wishbone and cups of tea. Wire brush and paint now needed. You have got me thinking - supercharged Duratec? Having found this it looks interesting. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=156816 Thanks again Robbie
  9. Tim Many thanks for the reply - Postage problem noted. Any chance of collecting one from Duxford? By car, this Sunday is good for me. After work on a weekday I could make it by train, is Whittlesford Parkway near? PM me details of the best time to suit you Many thanks Robbie
  10. I did a Duratec convesion on my 2B a couple of years ago. Have kept the Ford Mondeo set up with standard inlet manifold Ford 'Blackrock' ECU. Kept the Type 9 gearbox but changed to a hydraulic clutch. Had to mod the prop' shaft and gearlever linkage but engine fits within the bull bar provided you use a shorten sump. If you want a bit more info or photos pm me your email. Good luck Robbie
  11. Alan Did you ever get a driver's side wishbone? I am after the passenger side one for my 2B. If Tim or Rob have come across them then I would be interested Tokens for beer and postage readily available. Thanks for looking Robbie
  12. Thanks to Al Milton replacement glass collected and ready to be installed! Hope that the bucket and spade run went well. Thanks again Robbie
  13. Thanks for all the replies. It would appear that a laminate replacement is the preferred option. Al, if you have an original one going spare how much do you want for it? At least I can use this as a template. Please sent me a PM. Thanks again. Robbie
  14. I am after a windscreen glass for my 2B after original one shattered today. If you have one can you please confirm cost and location to allow collection. Many thanks Robbie
  15. Thanks for the posts. Concur with the thinking about using the original sensor. The problem is with how will the sensor picking up or generate a suitable signal? Mk3 Mondeo's use the transverse 75 gearbox with the sensor pick up wheel located on the differential output shaft. A Type 9 gearbox does not have this ability nor a location for the sensor. The option of fixing a suitable crenelated wheel to a drive shaft and fixing the sensor to the differential chassis housing would appear to be the best mechanical option. My knowledge of electronics is based around twin valve super-het transmitters so unless I can get a plug and play unit this method is not an option. Thanks again for your time and efforts. Robbie
  16. Simon Thanks for the reply. The original Mondeo VSS is a pulse type, a serrated disc on the drive shaft activates a sensor, which is magnetised, fitted through the differential casing. The one fitted is from a Ford Ka which is a rotating magnet driven by the Type 9 gearbox speedo drive, photos attached. The possibility of fitting an ABS sensor to the rear wheels is the next option to explore if a sensor driven from the gearbox is not possible. Where any Sierra's fitted with rear drums and ABS? Any other options to explore? Robbie
  17. Finally got the car back on the road with the Duratec HE just about fettled. One of the problems still to overcome is that the speedo is indicating a little on the low side. As I have used the Mondeo instrument cluster the speedo requires a signal from a vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I have used a sensor from a Ford Ka and fitted this to the Type 9 gearbox using an adapter. The signal from the sensor goes via the ECU to the speedo. The system works fine but an indicated 15 mph is way over 30 mph. Looking at pass posts there was a discussion that a 'sequencer' was available which can alter the speed sensor's output. Can any guidance be given on i/ Do different mechanically driven VSS give different signal outputs? ii/ Are 'sequencers' available and if they are where from? Any help gratefully received. Best regards Robbie
  18. Longborder Thanks for the reply. One added advantage of using the Ford PCM is that I have also wired in the OBD II port so can plug in a ELM 327 cable and using a laptop get a print out and reset any faults as well as reseting the MIL light. Will post some photos if interested. Robbie
  19. Well I said I would keep you posted. I know its been a few weeks since my last post but I have been busy with the Ford TIS, solder iron and shrink sleeve and its paid off - its finally runs!!! After connecting up the PCM (ECU), instrument cluster (IC) and generic control module (GCM) the PATS lights finally went out and it started first time! Next job is to weed out all the unrequired interconnects to see what is actually needed and what can be cropped. There are a few items which now need to be dealt with such as the door ajar light showing on the IC, where to locate the drivers door lock and do I actualy need the controls for the sunroof. So it is possible to take a Duratec HE straight out of a Mk 3 Mondeo and get it to work in a kit car using just the original Ford parts. the Robin Hood philosophy can continue! Using the original inlet manifold, fuel pump, PCM, key and transceiver it can be done. Dead chuffed Robbie
  20. Oliver Its not at the moment. The mechanical aspects are a doddle the electrics, using the original Ford loom, inlet manifold sensors and ECU is a nightmare. I have now tried another ECU (same code and part number), key and transceiver and still no joy. The dreaded 2.2 flash is still happening. If you go for the conversion it would be easier to go down the route of throttle bodies, return fuel rail and after market ECU. I have ordered a diagnostic cable so will try and cobble together a 16 pin ISO plug to see if their are any fault codes recorded in the original ECU. The next and possibly final option is to fit a Mondeo instrument cluster - yet another trip to Bridges. Will keep you posted on the outcome. Robbie
  21. The conversion is completed but I am having no joy getting the thing to run. Fuel pump is operating, priming the fuel rail and stopping. All relays are energising but the engine will not turm over. All connects have been checked and double checked and the starter motor works fine when fed directly from the batery. It seems that the ECU (Central Junction Box) does not appear to be giving the correct signals. After the rapid LED flashes a PATS fault of 2 times 2 flashes is being indicated through the attached LED. Its a long shot, but does anyone know what a 2.2 fault means on a Mk 3 Mondeo? On a Transit it is stated to be a ROM error - no ECU ID stored (duff ECU) Before I go for a replacement ECU does anyone have one with a chipped key for temporary lone or sale? Has anyone have this problem before with a Zetec conversion. Any help or advice gratefully recieved. Robbie
  22. Chooch What I thought would take 3 months tops is still ongoing, abet with light at the end of the tunnel! One plus point is that the Duratec will fit into a 2B without any modifications or welding to the chassis. The minus are far greater with new bell housing, propshaft, engine mounts, sump, flywheel, clutch, etc. being required. I have just finished doing the modifications to the RH fuel tank to allow the fitting of a Mondeo fuel pump complete with regulator and 'swirl pot'. I have tried to keep to the Robin Hood philosophy of using as much of the Mondeo as possible, so have reused the engine wiring loom, ECU, inlet manifold and ancillaries such as alternator. Once I have got the thing going and back on the road I may try and do a bit of a build diary for the magazine if there is interest. As for power, there are rose tinted glasses figures and realistic figures: Best case: Duratec original output 145 BHP; removal of catalyst - plus 10; straight through 4 to 1 exhaust - plus 10; high flow air filter - plus 5; removal of power steering pump and A/C compressor - plus 10. TOTAL = 180 BHP Reaalistic: Duratec with 76,000 miles 125 BHP; removal of catalyst - plus 5; straight through 4 to 1 exhaust - plus 5; high flow air filter - 0; removal of power steering and A/C compressor - 0. TOTAL 135 BHP Will post further details once it is running - hopefully by end of the month. Robbie
  23. All The Pinto is out and the Duratec is fitted in its original configuration and the majority of the mechanical modifications completed. The next big hurdle is the wiring. To reduce costs, I want to use the original Ford ECC-V ECU from the Mondeo. I have the Mondeo engine loom, chipped key and transponder loop but no wiring diagrams or ECU pin out chart. I also have the clock module, which included the LED to indicate ECU operation and fault codes. This I propose to fit in the dash. Has anyone fitted a Duratec HE using the original Ford ECU? Does anyone have a wiring diagram (2001 Mondeo) and pin out chart for the ECU? (ECU has the name "RAID") Any guidance gratefully received. Thanks in anticipation Robbie
  24. Thanks for the replies. I have been following Flak Monkey's build diary and his previous posts on the Lolocost forum - all good information but it would appear that he has access to complete workshop faclites!! Current problem is were to get hold of the correct diameter solid flywheel (298 mm o/d). As far as I can work out, the flywheel from a Focus ST 150 is slightly smaller and a different starter motor would be required. Flak Monkey's cure is to mill a couple of mm off the starter motor housing. Its an option but would take a long time with just a file. I am hoping to do the same with the thermostat housing on the Duratec. The concept is to try and keep the engine as standard as possible and to reuse the Ford ECU. Yes I did get a chipped key and induction loop with the ECU. Any more comments gladly received. Robbie
  25. All Firstly, don't call me surely! If you have followed my previous posts; 'Duratec Wanted' and 'Replacement Engine' you will gather what this post is about. Having got the Pinto out (thanks to Stephen Wright's hoist) and tried the Duratec, bell housing and Type 9 gearbox in its place, there appears to be a number of anomalies which need to be resolved. If anyone has done this conversion can they provide any guidance and part numbers on or for the following: i/ Is there an alternative solid flywheel to the Mondeo's dual mass one? ii/ The Rally Design bell housing uses a hydraulic clutch. The guidance from the Lolocost site to obtain a release bearing actuator from an early 2.5 litre Mondeo provide wrong as it does not fit over the input shaft casing (33.6 mm dia) on the Type 9 gearbox. Does anyone known which is the correct release bearing actuator to use? iii/ It would appear that the engine will sit forward of the Pinto's location and the prop shaft will need extending by about 110 mm. Is this the case with other conversions? iv/ Has anyone fabricated or bought engine supports for a Duretec in a 2B? Sorry to bother you all but hopefully someone will know. If not, then this may be of use to other members who are considering this conversion in the future. Many thanks Robbie
×
×
  • Create New...