Robbie 2B

Duratec HE has exhausts on correct side for a 2B, chain driven cams, all alloy wet liner, 145 bhp without fettling and best of all its not a Ford design. However, if push comes to shove its looks as if it will have to be a Zetec. Anyone want to add anything? Robbie

I am looking for a Duratec HE 2.0 engine to replace the leaded Pinto in my 2B. As my post asking if anyone wanted to sell one got zero replies I am having to look at other sources. One company which advertises on Ebay is Mondeo Spares of Stoke on Trent. They are offering a HE 2.0 with all ancillaries for £700 inclusive of VAT. Questions asked: i/ Is it only me who thinks this is expensive? ii/ Has anyone used Mondeo Spares and with what results? iii/ Apart from the normall 'Parts R us' and '247 spares', can anyone advise a scrapyard/spares/parts company which has Duratec HE engines? Thanks in anticipation Robbie

Please delete - computer error

All Due to the 2.0 Pinto in my 2 B having an unleaded head, cutting out when cornering and general lack of grunt it is to be changed for a Duratec. For the last few weeks I have been checking with my local scrap yards, LJC and Bridges, it would appear that the proper Duratec HE engines are few and far between. Does anyonce know of a scrap yard, engine builder or other RHOCAR member who has one of these engines available at a sensible price? I know that they are advertised on Ebay but either they go for silly money or get snapped up before the bidding stops. I am based in Surrey but would be willing to travel to pick up a 'good un'. Many thanks Robbie

As you live in Swansea, Pickup Spares may be your best bet. Their yard is out near the new stadium. Hope it helps Robbie 2B

Last year I was with Sureterm Direct and added my son James, then 21, to the policy for the last six months so that he could share the driving to Le Mans etc. This incured an addition fee of £127.24 - £35 for Sureterm Direct and £92.24 for the underwriter (Highway Insurance). This year I am with Graham Sykes Insurance (KGM) and tried to do the same. As the lad is now 22 I was hoping the cost may have been less. However, Graham Sykes have quoted me an additional premium of £1,308! There are a multitude of companies advertising on the internet stating that they provide cover between 1 - 28 days. Has any one got experience of trying to obtain short term insurance for their Robin Hood and if so at what cost? Many thanks in anticipation for your assistance Robbie 2B

Does anyone know if and where you can get replacement rubber strips for the straight type wiper blades as sold by Europa Spares (GWB 195). The end of the rubber has split and with the MOT coming up they should be replaced. As replacement blades are £8.66 plus VAT each with postage on top of that, I feel that that is a lot of money for two 8 inch strips of rubber. Any assistance would be appreciated. Robbie 2B

"Mark it up as an 8 Donny"

I have at present one of the cheap pancake filters, cost me £5 from the RHOCAR stand at the Stoneleigh show a few years back, could this be the reason why the car does not pick up smoothly when flooring the throttle in first gear? Due to this thread I have started to looking at and costing the fitting of a shallow replacement foam type filter, £12 for the base plate and £32 for the foam. After Jim's response about fitting a deep as possible filter, one point I would like clarification on is if the foam filter touches the bonnet wont the bonnet act like the top cover of a pancake filter and thus restrict the air flow? Is it worth looking at fitting a shallow plenum on to the carb and a remote conical air filter? Comments or views please Robbie

Just to complete the tale. I got a 3.62 differential from Bridges last Saturday, (£45 already removed from car). When it finally stopped raining I changed the diffs over on Friday night. Have now been for a number of runs (30 plus mile) and the problem appears to have gone!! One thing I did notice was when I had the prop shaft out there was a small square of curved plate (40 mm by 50 mm) which had been spot welded near to one end of the prop shaft. I take it that this was Robin Hood's method of balancing the prop shaft. At least it shows that the prop shaft had been on a balancing machine. Thanks for all the interest and responses. Robbie PS That Hamilton boy did well!

After a weekend of investigation, head scratching, pulling the prop shaft out, head scratching, checking and greasing the UJ's, head scratching and re-assembly the fault is still evident. All bets are now with the differential being the defective item. Yes I realise that a series of gears, running in an oil filled enclosure, should be the last thing that fails but all other suspect items have been given a clean bill of health. If anyone local has an unwanted standard differential sitting around in their garage, beer tokens and collection are available. Original was from a 2 litre carb sierra sapphire. If not, it will be a trip to Bridges at the weekend. Thanks for everyone's help. Best regards Robbie

Thanks to all who have replied. Took the drive shafts out tonight - both solid no backlash at all. Tested them by dangling splined end in soft jawed vice and trying to turned hub - no play at all. The metal can enclosure, surrounding the inboard CV joint, does rotate by about 7 degrees, this being independent of the joint itself. Checked the differential oil level - as per the book 10 mm below the level plug. No noticeable metal filing attached to the level plug's magnetic centre pin. Put wheels back on and tried it whilst on axle stands - clunking problem still event especially when in reverse and dipping the clutch. Too dark and wet to do any more tonight, will try a pin-point the problem when under car tomorrow. Best regards Robbie

Dan Thanks for starting the alarm bells. The prop shaft and UJs are fine, no noticeable play between the gearbox output shaft and input to the differential. The backlash appears to be at the inboard CV joints. If the prop shaft is held solid then backlash occurs on each drive shaft's CV 'can' adjacent to the differential. (See photo, CV 'can' shown painted blue) If the drive shaft is held solid then the inboard CV 'can' can be twisted by about 7 - 10 degrees. Again, if the drive shaft is held solid and the road wheel is turned there is no noticable play in the outboard CV joint. From the above is it more likely that the inboard CV joints have gone and the differential is OK? Any ideas? Best regards Robbie

On the drive back from Le Mans it became evident that all was not well with the drive to the rear wheels. The initial take up of the clutch resulted in a noticeable clunk and it became harder and harder to pull away smoothly. Get home mode stepped in - max 65, no swift acceleration, etc. Car now on axle stands and the drive shaft and differential have been examined. The drive from the gearbox to the differential appears all OK, UJs in good nick and no noticeable play. However, both drive shafts have a considerable amount of backlash. Thus they can be turned a considerable amount in different directions before 'metal to metal' contact is met. Can anyone provide information on what the allowable backlash should be? The Haynes manual is very limited with information. Prior to going to Le Mans it was noticed that the differential started to make a noise on the over-run. This occurred when the throttle was closed at around 30 and the car was 'freewheeling' in fourth gear. Was this the start of the problem which I missed? Any help, advice or if available maximum allowable backlash reading would be appreciated. Best regards Robbie PS Big thanks to Sir Chris for organising the campsite etc, sterling job - put my name down for next year please.

Reason for stating this was: When taking my 2B for its SVA (Gillingham) I had cable tied the sender unit supply and earth wires to the fuel pipes to get them from the chassis to the top of the fuel tank (45 litre type). I was informed by the examiner that this was a failable item and this was noted. Luckily there was sufficient slack to let me re-route the cable on the outer (3 o'clock) side of the chassis rail using cable ties with the fuel lines, fitted using 'P clips' rivited to the chassis, remained on the inside (9 o'clock). 10 minutes later he was happy and the item removed from his sheet. As I said - its a tip and the last thing you want to do is tell the examiner how to 'interpret' the SVA manual. Robbie

Tip Do not be tempted to clip the fuel tank sender unit wires to the fuel out or return pipes - this is a failable item. Wiring and fuel pipes must be kept apart. Robbie

Kim I have used FordPart UK to trace a seal kit for a brake master cylinder - see my previous post on this item. They came up trumps however I got some of the seals I wanted at the local scrappy so did not order. The email enquiry feature at their web site worked well. Details are as follows: Hello Mr Sillars. Thankyou for your Enquiry. Here is the information requested: Sierra 2.0-Brake Master Cylinder Repair Kit (Girling) Part Number: 6118163 Retail Price: £22.10 You Pay: £19.89 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Postage & Packing Parcel Force UK 2Day Service £5.00 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Prices subject to VAT @ 17.5% -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Total Cost: £29.25 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you wish to order the parts please do so via the secure link below. https://miva.cedant.com/fordpartsuk/paymentinfo.htm Alternatively if you would rather fax your order please do so: ÉFax Number: 01980 625141 (Phone: 01980 676061 trevor@fordpartsuk.com Your Order ref is: FPUK**** I hope this is of help Best Regards Trevor www.fordpartsuk.com Robbie

Due to sitting in a two hour traffic jam getting to the Le Mans campsite the rubber seals between the reservoir and master cylinder 'fried' and started to leak brake fluid. After getting to the camp site the problem was temporally solved with a top up of fluid and two cable ties to hold the reservoir against the master cylinder. Got home without losing another drop. Went to Ford this morning to get a couple of replacement seals only to be told that I need to buy the complete servo unit and they would need the original chassis number (this is with the "technician" looking at the original master cylinder and servo unit.) Approximate cost - £280!!! Question is, does anyone known where to get the rubber seal? PS - As a Le Mans virgin can I just say thanks for all the invaluable help and advice given and also a big thanks to the organisers - Chris, Bill, and all the other people who helped Robbie

Many thanks Chris Nuf said Robbie

I have just looked on the Le Mans 'Official Website'. The pdf ticket brochure states that the deadline for ordering tickets is Monday 08 May. Can anyone help with the following: 1. Is this the case or can you pick up a general admision ticket from the 'Welcome Area' when you arrive at Le Mans? 2. Do they do discounted tickets for students - having ID card etc.? 3. It also appears that if you buy a block of twenty tickets you get a discount, 53 compaired to 60 Euros, if this is the case can we get tickets through the club? Thanks Robbie (Washed the polo shirt again today - still a damn awful colour!!)

Don't be put off, Delting is a great friendly show and the weather can be nice, this was last year. See you there!! Robbie

Many thanks for the responses. I have attached a pitures of the sidescreen - a picture being worth a thousand words etc. I have now checked the clear plastic sheet which was sold to me a 'Perspex'. It is "Ariel Clear Polystyrene" is this any good or should I use polycarbonate? Thanks again Robbie

I have cracked the drivers side sidescreen - yes it was my fault trying to leap out of the car at the local Argos car park. All I can say is the Perspex must be really brittle when it is cold. Having got a replacement half sheet of Perspex and a fine toothed jig saw blade I am about to try and replace it. The question is what glue/sealant do you use and what method is used? RH in their blurb state that the sidescreens are 'welded'. It is assumed that it is heat welding. If so can I use an iron just to heat the black rubbery stuff in the seam of the material after replacing the roughened Perspex? Any comments and preferably some guidance gratefully received Thanks Robbie

Just booked the ferry - £54 for me and James. 11:15 out on the 15 June 21:00 return on the 19 June I wonder if I'll have to pay for the camp site this time?!! Robbie

Took the car for its MOT check today - £44 well spent. One of the points found was that the front discs have warped. The tester did a long series of brake tests and in the end let the car pass. However he said that this is normally a fail item and I need to change the discs. So three questions: 1. Has anyone else had this problem with the RH supplied discs? 2. Could this problem be due to another fault making the discs run out-of-align? 3. When replacing the discs should you put motor factor standard replacements or go for the all singing 'performance' discs? I find it very easy to lock the front wheels with the RH discs now on the car especially in the wet(basic Yokos being used). Comments appreciated Robbie