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    Phil Dickinson

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    Harrogate, North Yorkshire

phil_d's Achievements


Builder (2/5)



  1. I bought this engine back in July as a spare, but I no longer need it. Listed on ebay if anyone is interested. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ford-pinto-engine-1-8-185-block-shortened-sump-kit-car-Robin-Hood?item=160885513696&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2252236656156665367 No reserve and curently only at £2.84!!!!! finishes Tuesday
  2. Car went for a MoT this week and passed thankfully. However, the tester did comment that the car was significantly down on power. As far as I know my S7 has a standard 2.0L pinto, out of a 1984 Sierra. One of his suggestions was to check the cam timing. As the cam has a vernier pulley he suggested it may have a performance cam and it may need adjusting. So I took of the cover this morning and took a look for any identiciaftion marks on the cam. All I can see is the FORD logo and the number H55 on the body of the cam and stamped onto the end it looks like 55T88, but its not that well stamped. Any help appreciated. Phil
  3. For a general guide to bolt torque, try http://roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/Screw_loads.htm I tend to use Roymech as a good reference for loads of general mechanical engineering data. If you want to play with the numbers a bit more, here is another:http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx Phil
  4. Thanks for the advice, the kit seems expensive so I will try locking it open. -theduck: I guess your carb will be worth more than the conversion kit??
  5. Can anyone suggest a good source of a manual choke conversion for a 32/36 Weber. I am having issues with the automatic choke, so would rather convert to manual. If anyone has made their own conversion and has photos to share that would be useful, or I can buy a kit. Cheers Phil
  6. Just finish getting the old silicone sealant out of my tank and fitted a new sender unit and gasket. Thought it might be worth fitting an inline filter and 12V fuel pump. The pump seems simple enough just one red and one black lead, but I don't know where to take the 12V supply from, any suggestions? Phil
  7. What material should be used to seal the sender unit? Would a cork gasket be ok or a non-silicone based sealant? Phil
  8. Baz Funny you should say that, I did think the sealant around the sender unit was poor. Elephant snot is a good description and the floating debris in the tank could well be the same. Looks like a good clean is required. Phil
  9. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will start with the fuel system and if that doesn't sort it continue with the ignition system. It did seem to give a good regular spark when I pulled the lead off the distributor and check it against the block. Thanks Phil
  10. After using my S7 most days this week for work it has developed a problem. It feels like it is running out of fuel, which is possible as the gauge is broken. So I filled it up, got about 1 mile from the garage and it died on me. It would crank over and sometimes the engine would tick over, but if I tried to put on any revs it just died again. Fortunately a fellow Hood owner was passing and helped my push it off the A59 onto a side road. I tried letting it cool down (as ity was very warm yesterday) but no different. I evently got it towed home checked that the fuel pump was pumping and that seemed ok. I did notice a split in the fuel pipe where it was attached to the carb, so I cut the pipe and retightened the clip. This seemed to help and it was ticking over nicely and would rev up ok. So I took it out for another spin, this time got about 400 yards along the road and it died again! Any suggestions what to look at next. When I took the float out of the tank to check it, I did notice alot of crap in the bottom of the tank. I cleaned the filter in the tank, but it is possible that the carb could need a clean?
  11. Andy Did you get the gearknob made to your own design/description or is this something that was being made already and you bought one? I have a stainless steel version on mine and it feels good and is very secure. I appreciate aluminium is lighter and much easier to turn, but it may oxidise over time and will scratch much easier that stainless. If anyone is interested I can produce a batch in either aluminium or stainless. The cost will depend on how many are in the batch (I'd need to do some sums), but the price to members would be very reasonable.
  12. phil_d

    Cycle Wing Stays

    Thanks for the pictures. I have picked up a couple of sets from Adrian to try out, but at this stage the more design info I can get the better. Glad to hear you had a good trip! Phil
  13. phil_d

    Cycle Wing Stays

    I'd be interested in trying both of those, are you around at the weekend I could call over and collect. Phil
  14. phil_d

    Cycle Wing Stays

    Any details will be appreciated, if I can't buy some then I will have a go at making some.
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