churchy

.thank you fellow hoodys , I think I will just put up with it as its not a big problem that's what I love about being in the club, help is only a friendly chat away Thank you everybody and hopefully see you all in the summer at some of the shows cheers andy.

Hi, just rebuild my engine, 2 litre pinto with 32/36 carb with a cable choke which is new and running off mechanical pump from engine, timing is set correct and co on carb is set correct as well. The problem I have is when car has been standing for more than a .day i t does not start straight away and takes time to start and a few pumps of the accelerator, to me I think it may be lack of fuel but then when running the car performs perfect also once started for the rest of the day the car starts straight away. .I'm running a two pipe fuel system with a return back to the tank, could you change to a single pipe, could it be mechanical pump not supply ing enough fuel and how to check or is it that the fuel is draining back to the tank and how do I stop this, .any suggestions welcome or is this a common fault that I will have to live with

Thank you guys, once again invaluable information, very helpful, cheers Andy

Hi all, just renewed all my front ball joints, anti roll bar bushes,lower arm components, drag link joints and track rod ends on my sierra S7 with inboard coil overs and come the 1st april the car will be on the road, The first thing will be to get the tracking set up and i did not know the settings for this or do i tell the garage it is the same as the standard sierra setting. can anyone help me with this question before i wear my tyres out, cheers Andy

Hi, I fitted smith flight dials which had the same sensor but the only problem is if where you are sensing moves at all under load from the. engine then it will not sense or worse take out the sensor, which happened to me so I fitted the same unit as David Murray showed that fits onto the old cable drive point from the gearbox and have never looked back the speedo reading is accurate and don't have to worry about making a bracket or catching the sensor, hope this helps, good luck andy

hi mower man,am interested in tie bar conversion and. what improvement it makes, at the moment I have a anti roll bar which is in two separate pieces it is cut each side just after the bushes underneath the car and each side is separate

thank you, everybody for your help, that is just what i need and that is why the RHOC and this forum is all about, everybody is so friendly and always willing to help, once again thankyou

thanks anyway pete, also when i have read my topic back i only need two ball joints/rod ends, what are they and where possible would i be able to get two

Hi all, this winter i am going to change all the bushes and ball joints on my front suspension as they are getting a little bit tired, all the items look standard sierra items, front suspension lower arm component, anti roll bar, the only ball joint im not certain about is the upper joint that come's off the top off the hub, this would be where the shock absorber sits but in my case i have a upside down cup with a ball joint just like a track rod end joint. can anyone help and tell me where i can get two items, my car is a 1995 S7 sierra based robin hood with inboard suspension. thanks for looking and hopefully in pointing me in the right direction Andy

If you need it picking up then just let me know, either by fourm or ping me a text on 07894783559, cheers Andy

Hi :-) Andy, I live in Peterborough and have not got a problem with picking up the diff and holding on to it Until the other chap is delivering hot tubs in Peterborough as I live in werrington only 4 miles away from city centre, I work around Peterborough and if the gentleman telephones me 30 minutes before collection I can be at home ready for him, if that helps you, cheers Andy

Thanks everybody, i have no mesh in the front grill just a number 7, i am running with no t/stat in the engine and i have got what i call a shark finn grill either side of my bonnet, the rad, hoses and engine block are not blocked as i have checked these, the rad is 450,430,35mm and sits at a 45/55 degree angle in the nose cone and i have blocked off as much air from passing around the rad as possible in the nose cone, before i had done all of this the car just was overheating within 4 miles at any speed, now she will run all day at 70mph but if i am driving hard the temp will rise to 95+ at which point i let there cool down which does take it time but the temp does dropt back to 80c, i think but i may be wrong is that the air is passing over and not going through the rad, so i was thinking of fitting a rad that will sit upright in the nose cone and fill almost the cone as well as ducting the air into the rad, does anybody agree or am i barking up the wrong tree, i am happy to run as she is this summer as i just want to enjoy her and the hard driving i can live with, this will be a winter project but am just hoping i am going in the right direction. Any advice would be very welcome. Cheers Andy

hi everybody, had a great day at newark kit car show today and have decided to replace my existing radiator with a vw polo rad that will sit uprigth in the nose cone but i am wondering which polo rad i should use, i.e. from which vw model. If you read my forum i have had overheating problems, this i have almost solved the car runs lovely at a steady 80c if you do not rev her too hard otherwise this will rise and keep rising untill i reduce the rev's back down and then the temp reduces back to 80, i shall run her this summer as she is because i just want to enjoy there and this is not an problem to me, then i will change the radiator set up when she is laid up in the winter. So i am just wondering which rad to look out for and start my winter collection of parts off. Any help and advice will be gratefully received Cheers Andy

Hi, i have already wrapped my exhuast and have two shark vents as i call them,one each side to release hot air,. i have been in the garage all day today and have sorted the problem out,it was that most of the cool fresh air entering the nose cone was taking the easiled route and not flowing through the radiator but around it, so i have boxed the nose cone around the radiator so that all the cool fresh air entering has to go through the radiator, took the car out today and she ran at 75 to 85 depending on the speed and traffic. i would like to thank all of you for your advise and imformation which lead me in the right diection and to solve my problem,it is great to know that there is always someone out there to leand a solution and help, once again thank you everybody and what a great owners club it is, i hope to meet some of you at the newark kit car show, Cheers Andy

hi, yes the gauges are new and the sender unit is the correct one for the dials, they are smith fligth dials and i am sure they are registering the corrct temp

Hi, can anybody help me, i have an S7 and this is the second season i have run her, the first season i did not have a temp gauge and the radiator was old and leaking so i have no idea what she was running temp wise. This winter i fitted new smith flight dials, a new radiator ( size 440mmx 460mmx35mm) i flushed out the block with clean fresh water and fitted this rad at about 30 degrees to get it into the nose cone but the rad is still the highest point, there is no t/stat fitted and an electric fan that is operated by a switch on the dash,the water pump spins freely and you can see i sligth ripple of the water when you spin the pump by hand thro the radiator cap opening, there is no header tank just an overflow tank that should blow and such as the rad cap opens, this is new and operates at 13 lbs,all this is fitted to a 2 litre pinto. When i run the car after about 10/15 miles the temp gauge rises and keeps rising to 80 and then slower to 100/105 at which time i switch the engine off, if i let her idle the temp will fall to about 80 and this is with the fan running all the time. Can anyone help me, is the rad too small, any advise will be greatfully received. Cheers Andy

THANKYOU NIGEL, I LEARN SOMETHING NEW EACH DAY AND AM AMAZED HOW GOOD THIS FORUM IS, THANKS AGAIN

HI, EVERYBODY, MY REAR DIFF IS MAKING ONE HELL OF A NOISE AND WILL REQUIRE CHANGING BUT HOW CAN I FIND OUT THE DRIVE RATIO THE DONOR CAR IS A SIERRA 2 LITRE WHICH WAS MADE IN 1983, THE GEARBOX IS A 5 SPEED WITH THE FIFTH GEAR BEING AN OVERDRIVE IF THIS HELPS THERE WAS A TAG ON THE REAR DIFF WITH SOME NUMBERS ON IT BUT IT MEANS NONTHING TO ME, ON THIS TAG WAS TWO ROWS OF NUMBERS TOP ROW 3BG4006 LC BOTTOM ROW A338 3F 15 CAN ANYONE HELP ME OR POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION CHEERS ANDY

hi, i fitted my speed sensor for the speedo picking up the face of the bolts on the rear prop as it joins the diff with a sturdy bracket attached to the under side of the bodywork, just like nigels picture, then it was a simple task of adjusting the sensor to the biggest gap with the LED sensing which is 2mm as they say then a drive to calibrate the speedo which is so easy. thanks again for all your help everybody. Cheers Andy. P.S. i am a happy boy as the car is out and about on the road as it should be putting the biggest smile on my face and the best thing fun i have had with my cloths on?

thanks for that florin metal works and i think that i will try nigels set up first and see how i get on, i will let you know how i get on when the weather improves as well as my sore throat and tried legs allow me, thanks for all your inputs, most gratefully received and hope to meet up with some of you over the summer months

thanks guys, the replys have been really helpfull and also to nigel as a picture paints a thousand words, this is the first time i have used the forums and have been overwhelmed with the response and the friendleness of everybody. i shall be using this again, once again thanks for all your help. Andy

thanks for that pete, i think this may be the way i shall go, andy

Hi, can anyone help me, I have a robin hood S7, just installed new dash with smith fligth dails. The speedo inductive sensor needs to be 2mm away from whatever it is going to sense and i have ran the cable to the rear of the car and cannot get back to the gearbox now as i have installed a new interoir, so it must sense at the rear, has anybody got any ideas on where to mount the sensor and what it can sense, please help as this is the last part to fit after a 6 month total strip down and rebuild and i am itching to get out and about in her,thanks