Pete Mar

Sorry Gents, been away for a few days so could not respond. Thanks for the info, looks like Side deflectors with a half door seems to be a good option along with a large deflector. Cheers Pete

Hi all, I am thinking of fitting windscreen side wind deflectors to my car but want to get your opinion on there effectiveness. How much will they reduce buffeting in comparison to say fitting side doors. Cheers Pete

Cheers Gents, Plenty of things to try this weekend.

Might be wheel bearing but I fitted new ones 300 miles ago. I am assuming it is rear brakes as it is affected by me pulling up the handbrake. Cheers Pete

Thanks both. Unfortunately I have both cleaned the drums up and put a leading edge on the shoes.

Gent's, a little advice please. I am having real issues with a very loud Squeak for the drum breaks on the rear of my Zero. I have had them apart and put copper grease in all the right places, give them a good rough up and cleaned the dust out Etc. I have also put a leading edge on the Shoes. Is there anything more I can do? I am wondering if it is the shoes them selves that is the problem maybe very hard material Etc, do any of your gents have a make that you use and recommend? The car has done just over 300 miles since I got it passed the IVA and got it on the road. Cheers Pete

Top job and just in time for the good weather!

Cheers for the feedback gents. Given me a few more bits to look at. Pete

I have the pressure switch and the lights are not stuck on so I guess that means it is not pressure in the system. I am going to have to take a real close look at the calipers and the pads I guess,all seemed to be inline though. Cheers Pete

Hi Ian, Not sure on the master cyclinder piston, I will take a look later tonight, I did take the calipers off and they seemed fine. I did push them out and give them a little wipe over with copper grease just to be sure though. Cheers Pete

Morning all, Managed to get the old girl out for her first proper outing at the weekend and I noticed that the breaks seem to be binding front and rear to the point that they will hold the car on a slight hill, this seems to get worce when warm. I have drum rear breaks and the fronts are 4 pot Wilwood callipers on unvented discs, all brand new. I have tried the following: 1. Adjusting the break peddle so that there is plenty of space between the peddle stop and the rod bushing the piston in the master cylinder so this is not putting pressure on the system. 2.I have adjusted the rears to make sure these are not tying up on the auto adjusters. 3.I have also measured the callipers to make sure they are centred on the disc and they are The breaks work fine and pull the car up very well, just seem to have these binding issues. Anyone come across this before? Cheer Pete

Are you using the standard ECU or an after market unit?

My system was off a 2.0L.

My break cyclinder are on the front of the back plate and not on the top. It was impossible for me to line up the back plate with the wholes in the hub carrier when the back plate had the cyclinders at the top. I guess if you put the carriers on the other side you will en dup with the cycinders at the back but I saw no advantage to that. My car drives and stops well and past the IVA last month. I'd be interested if anyone has found a way to fit t he back plate in the normal way. I guess you could drill new holes. Pete

I used alcantara on my dash and centre console. Picked it up on a stand at Stoneleigh.

I'm sure that stat is mounted backward in this unit, I can't see that it will be able to control the temperature as intended. It must be allowing the engine to get hotter than intended before opening.

Congratulations on the pass. Another Zero on the road very shortly.

I was very happy with my loom and they were very helpful when I got stuck with the wiring of the column controls. I did not realise that there was three different until for the sierra, the big problem was I had late model controls that are negative switched, a bit of advice and all the fues poping was solved. If your also going to solder connectors then I would advise getting a gas soldering iron if you don't have one, heat up fast and no wire to worry about.

I used a rapid fit loom in my zero build,Great product. The instructions were hand written and that worried me to start with but they were very good. I chose to supply and fit all the plugs and connectors for my loom as it saved quite a bit on the price of the loom and I also wanted to solder and shirk wrap all the connectors and not just crimp them, this will help prevent future issues. Most people hate the electrical part of the build but I actually enjoyed fitting all the plugs and connectors and routing the cabling, the loom was very easy to work with. Good product at a good price.

First thing I would try is adjusting the cluch cable. If it's a bit loose then you can get problems getting into revers and from revers into first.

Picked one up from Maplins over Christmas. Still need to test it but should do the job I think.

Cheers Gent's. I'm hoping it don't take so long to get a reg number that I get a 64 plate! Really looking forward to getting her out on the road but a few jobs left to do while the ran continues to fall. 1. Fit proper steering wheel, get shot of that poxy Sierra one. 2. Fit Screen, wipers and doors. 3. Fit rear diffuser. 4. Remove indicator extensions 5. Hide keys so the wife can't find them! Pete

I am very pleased to say that my Zero GT past the IVA today. Very Very happy boy! I would like to say a big thank to all on this site. Your help and assistance though the build has been invaluable in getting the job done. Looking forward to seeing some of you up at Stoneleigh and on the road. Cheers Pete

I had the same issue as I also had the later switch gear. I did the conversion to switched neutral, not hard to do but takes a bit of time.

That's very helpful. I have a way forward. Cheers Pete