theduck

Sounds like a good result. You can add rack stops like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steering-rack-lock-stops-for-Kit-car-Locost-Robin-Hood-Haynes-Roadster/181157243041?hash=item2a2dd028a1:g:K6IAAOSwQPdfOkQv

Time to remove the decals from the Prefect!

When I did my IVA we set my headlight alignment during the test

IVA Manual is available to download here - https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iva-manual-for-vehicle-category-m1 The old westfield images - keep in mind, i think these were removed as the measurements stated are out of date, so do cross reference the manual linked above

The car is fitted with removable Sparco steering wheel. I have been told it will need to be replaced with the genuine Sierra wheel or at least a padded wheel for the IVA. Could someone confirm if this is the case please? The answer to this is, it depends. I passed IVA with an aftermarket wheel fitted, others have failed. Some edge trim should be enough to keep most testers happy. Also, do I need to fit side repeaters and have the front indicators on the nose cone? Currently the indicators are just behind the nose cone. There are specific measurements for positions and angles of visibility for indicators, worth consulting the IVA manual for these. You will require side repeaters though and these are best on the outside of the cycle wings as the visibility requirement is actually to the rear.

Had a bit of a break but back working on the prefect and so back with the videos. Probably won’t be a video every week but will post them as and when they are ready, and on that note, here is the next one.

Than being wired up backwards and being run all the time will have been doing worse than nothing, it will have prevented airflow through the rad when driving.

On my s7 I had the radiator in front of the inboard suspension. You have to lean the radiator back to make it fit but it will be far more efficient like that as airflow will be less blocked and you will have far more room for a decent fan.

Spal fans are great and come in a range of sizes, both diameters and depths. They also have a massive range of flow rates, worth paying close attention to the specs and getting the highest flowing one you can in a size that fits, because amazingly the price differences between a low flowing one and a high flowing one are negligible. Also when it comes to buying a fan I can highly recommend airconco, there website has all the information you need to make a decision on which fan and they are very well priced https://shop.airconcoparts.co.uk/epages/es117975.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es117975_shop/Categories/SPAL_Fan_Section/Axial_Fans_12v

If running in free air at 50 on a cool day it is still getting warm, then there is a larger issue than the fan. The fan should really only come on in traffic and (if suitable sized) should provide enough airflow to cool the temps back down. To answer your questions: A small fan can still have impressive flow, but that does sound small. If polarity is reversed the fan could be fighting the flow coming into the engine bay - this could be part of the problem. Expansion tank should be necessary. Have you got a heater plumbed in? or if no heater, does the heater connector on the manifold route back to the water pump? Is the thermostat opening correctly? if it is stuck closed you wont get adequate flow through the radiator to cool the engine. Have you got a louvered bonnet? or any other ways for hot air to escape? Under bonnet temps can be a big factor in causing overheating issues.

Poly bush is far cheaper than power flex and offer a range of hardness outers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290900707196 Inner https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233735627205

The bit of angle under the floor is probably there to stop the floor from cracking...

Another recommendation for Brands Hatch Performance. Get most of my pinto bits from them

Sad news indeed, thoughts with Johns family.

Hi, I assume you didnt build the car originally? Do you know if the builder used a GBS supplied loom? Its possible to buy other off the shelf looms, or of course they could have scratch built it.

This is the type I am referring to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/42mm-HIGH-FLOW-ALLOY-SPORT-RACE-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-HONDA-CIVIC-EG-EK-EH-EJ-92-00/392056051672?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACivic&hash=item5b485c97d8:g:qFwAAOSwsnBfQ6r~

I've had good success with the ebay honda civic alloy rads. They do them 32mm inlets and outlets too.

Only if they make car modification illegal, Bob. They'll stop us building cars at all long before that though.

As above leave it off for test

I didnt rate the stuff I had from accuspark, and never understood why people want to remove the vac advance. Powerspark one I used was good though, and keeps the vac advance https://simonbbc.com/ford-pinto-ohc-type-distributor/

Newer "oem" ones are 1.4kw. Think this is the one I ended up with https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-0-FORD-PINTO-LIGHTWEIGHT-UPRATED-STARTER-MOTOR-LRS00543-LRS00109-LRS00110/273796747058?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Have you got any jump leads? Use these to add extra grounds between engine and chassis and / or gear box and chassis. Quick way to tell if you need to improve the grounding.

Without trying to teach you to suck eggs, but given that the ECU lost the map, I'd suggest giving Emerald a call today, it might be a symptom of another issue and they are best place to guide you on that.

Yuasa NP17-12I are a good alternative to the oddysey pc680 and similar. They can be bough for less than £50 and appear to be an identical battery. I have fitted one to the Prefect and Steve Walford uses them in all his race cars.