theduck

I've not been looking forward to making the brake and fuel hardlines I have to say, and I wasn't wrong! Despite that, so far so good, the they've come out looking nice, though I haven't pressure tested the plumbing yet so it could still be a disaster!

Most likely over the weekend of the second May bank holiday again, so looking at the calendar for next year that would be 29th-31st May

Most of the hardwork is done, so will definitely be re-arranged. At least by then I'll stand a chance of having the Prefect on the road...

NC generation MX5 gearbox would seem the sensible choice of gearbox for a duratec build

@LezLezLez, if you have the v5 for the donor car, and the engine number matches, I would expect when you register post-iva that you will get an age related plate. You can also prove engine age based in the engine number and the guide in the burton catalogue, and this is suitable for IVA. @blue it would be possible to get a new registration using a pinto engine as your one refurbished item, but you would be talking in the refion of £4.5k to buy a brand new type 9 gearbox and sierra diff (based on quaife prices) and it simply wouldnt be worth spending that much money on those parts unless you are putting a pretty special pinto in front of it, and unless you are a bit weird like me and just like to prove what the old lump of iron can do, you'd be better putting that money towards a more modern engine.

In this video we modify parts to make them work on the 1958 Ford Prefect 100e Pinto Turbo Project Car. First up is the compressor housing of our new turbo which needs a boost take off for the wastegate, then we take the cleanest completely original Ford Pinto EFI fuel rail we have ever seen, and cut it up! Talking of cutting things up, we cut up the steering column support too! In the end though, we make everything better and the car is getting closer to the point where we take it all apart again...

Thats right, I'll be honest, I dont completely understand how that works, and I have the MG Register to thank for the answer on how to make it work as I copied their recommended wiring for an indicator warning buzzer - https://www.mgb-register.org/louder-audible-warning-indicators/ It does mean that the warning light flashes at the opposite time to the indicator flashing, but can live with that for a nice neat wiring solution.

Didnt realise the ME had vss configuration, thats a nice extra.

They are normally based on the W20 variant of MR2 (Second generation)

Also dont think you require 19a 627/1 just put n/a for parts that dont have serial numbers.

4W and 4X only apply to class R applications, which this wont be, as it will be class A. 8.1 doesnt apply, they are for LPG, CNG or Hydrogen gas powered vehicles.

^^ Thats a very good point.

My solution would be to fit a weber 32/36 with manual choke, not only does it solve your problem but you'd get a nice power increase too

In this video the main focus is getting the wiring finished! To that end, we set about installing our megasquirt ecu in to the 1958 Prefect 100e Pinto Turbo Project Car. It's a setup we used previously on the kit car build, but the looms a mess, but not because we did a bad job last time, oh no, we were smart, we knew it was going to be pulled out and go into something else, so what we did was extend our brand new loom so when we pulled it it out we still had a completely new loom to work with on the new car, and it was totally worth it! We also get a little bit of plumbing done while we are at it, and the car is really coming together well. ALSO, I will be doing a Q&A video in the coming weeks, so if you have any questions you want me to answer in that, just let me know

This type of launch control does help if you spend time working out what the ideal launch RPM is, and obviously can adjust it for different conditions etc. Though its main benefit is setting it up in such a way that you can build boost on the line in turbocharged cars.

As above auto off isnt required

Can't say I have ever heard of type 1 and type 2 doors. As far as i know all original robin hood roofs and doors were the same across the particular model, and would most likely fit any other robin hood model too.

Making a wiring loom from scratch is hard work and takes a lot of planning, but it will be totally worth it when it is all done! As well as working on the wiring I install new switch panel and centre console, some of my intellitronix gauges and my pidash.

Agree with Dan, reckon current routing is fine.

Yep

haha, well I help with running the website, and like others who still around, still like kit cars and have made a lot of friends through the club. Plus in part my kit car lives on in my current car as I re-used a lot of bits from it in the new one.

That we moved on? Or that we are still lurking?

There are even a few of us still lurking having moved on from kit cars

With the extended lock down, and the fact that I am due to be isolating until after this event due to being classed as at risk, I am cancelling my hotel today and will look to re-arrange this when the world is a safer, saner place. If others want to keep their reservations and make a call nearer the time, I will happily provide route details etc still.

Robin Hoods tend to be heavy, 700+kg is the norm which adds to some of the derision. They can be excellent cars, but a featherweight trackday special they are not.