brumster

Unless you're planning to go mental on the engine tuning, or just want the induction hammer of the TB's, I'd stick with a conventional plenum. Easier to duct cool air to, less faff and I could believe the claim that the torque is better (although you can probably improve this with tuning the trumpet lengths on the TBs). Put it like this, I could think of better things to spend £600 on for sure. But if you're in it for a 200bhp+ lump in the long term, then TBs make more sense. Probably with an airbox - so even more expense

Nosecone and rear arches sold & gone. Also added the front dampers in case they're of use to anyone.

Looks a shed load better

My first impression was "cadence braking you numpty!" but there was a suggestion on the original youtube clip that the throttle stuck open and... if you listen... it does sound like it stays quite "loud" under braking. I wonder if he stamped on two pedals at once or the throttle did indeed jam wide open? Reminds me of , and not in a good way. Competing myself, this sort of stuff scares me silly

I'll be there too. Sans Hood now, it's officially off the road and days are numbered. Sans Pug too; that's missing an exhaust system - I'll tell you the story on club night Got some arches to bring for unclechief too...

No worries. It is a mod certainly worth doing for Exmo owners, I'll admit (we had to do it out of necessity of clearing the K-Series sump, but in reality it was worth doing even if the sump wasn't an issue).

Tie bar kit was commissioned by Dave Andrews back in the day; the outer brackets fabricated by a prototyping shop where my old man worked and the inner just some pieces of angle. I'm sorting out photos right now and will get them uploaded to Picasa... https://picasaweb.google.com/112513769957404714981/ExmoBreaking?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCKaE883R7ZT2Cg&feat=directlink

You have PM

I've honestly no idea - maybe someone else knows?

This week I'll be stripping down the Exmo for donor parts for my Zero build. Most of the bits, as you can imagine, I'm keeping but I figure some bits may be of interest to others. Prices are ONO, and all plus shipping. Front swept-style arches (Oxford Blue) £20/pair Rear two-piece wide arches (Oxford Blue) with stainless protector panels £20/pair Nosecone + grille (Oxford Blue) £15 Bonnet, stainless, w/louvres, dinted in top - useful for steel/louvres maybe? £10 Rollover bar, original £30 Windscreen, frame and black side supports £40 Front tie bar kit £20 Light set (headlamps, front indicators, rear clusters, reverse, fog) £20 Rear sierra subframe, arms, springs (note nothing else - no hubs, shafts, etc) £10 Stainless steel tub - for scrap, spare steel, etc. *NO VIN, NO V5* £100 ETB mechanical speedo, 80mm, white on black, geared for Type 9, with cable £40 ETB rev counter, 80mm, white on black, coil pack driven, can include homemade converter to run off ECU £40 Oil pressure gauge, with sender, white on black 52mm £15 Water temperature gauge, with sender, white on black 52mm £15 Fuel level gauge, white on black 52mm no sender, unknown calibration but does not work straight with Ford sender £15 Exmo fuel tank - includes brazed compartment for fuel injection (no need for swirl pot) £40 Front dampers £10/pair Sierra quick rack (2.8 turns) inc arms £50 Items located in Brum obviously edit : Pics slowly being added to :- https://picasaweb.go...feat=directlink

Discussed recently. Other option is juse a switch from something modern that automatically turns off the fog light when the lights are turned off (dial-type switch with a "pull" for the fog light - many make it impossible to turn it off without pushing the button back in, or it latches back in automatically).

Sounds good

Doesn't look too bad a day here, sunny although it's wet on the ground from last night. Hood is no longer insured or MOTd hopefully you won't all snub me if I bring the Peugeot; the engine is freshly rebuilt and I need to put a few miles on it so I'll probably bring that

Duck, I have an offer for you (pursuant to a time that's mutually good). I'll provide the tow barge and trailer, and run you over to Aldon in Dudley for a day. If they can't sort it, seriously, no-one can

Ultimately, Zach, given where you live you should get the car down to Chris at Centre Gravity. What he doesn't know about chassis setup isn't worth knowing, he can advise and tune as you want the car to be, and certainly tell you where it is now and what it needs to be to drive the way you want it. Not cheap, probably around the £200-250 for a full measurement and setup (depends on how easy the Zero is to adjust really) but a full setup by someone like this (rather than, say, Kwikfit!) is worth it.

LOL. They are quite cool things but I wouldn't pretend they have massive applications in our field. They are an expensive alternative to a fusebox and relay board. Think of them as a computer-controlled set of relays. You buy them for a number of channels (however many suit your needs - how many circuits do you want to switch). All the on/off logic is defined in computer configuration - there is no hard wiring config. You have a set of input wires, and a set of outputs. In the simplest configuration, you would program the unit so that when an input wire changes state, the corresponding output wire changes state also. So a simple on/off toggle. Now obviously that's very low-end and if you was just going to set up 3 circuits that all do that, there's little need for a PDM. But the power comes when you want to define logic based on multiple inputs. For example, a fog light output that will only toggle if the dip beams are on. Or a wash/wipe cycle that will turn on the motor circuit for the wipers as well as the pump. Or a fuel pump feed that will only run the pump for a limited period of time without seeing an engine crank signal. The other benefits of the PDM is it's solid state, so very resistant to harsh environments, and there are no fuses to blow - it monitors voltage, current and temperature and will automatically reset circuits as needed (it can even retry them a number of times before permanently 'tripping' and disabling the circuit). Main uses are in motorsport really, but if you were feeling flush it would make wiring up a kit a piece of piss, provided you were savvy with a laptop and basic logic principles. I made a video for another forum which doesn't really explain much but if it interests you :-

Will have to browse Farnells ma-hoo-sive catalogue again some time picking a tran/'fet from their search criteria always feels like a lucky dip to me! There's some cool things you can do with a high-end PDM like MoTeC's but we're probably going to veer a little off base here... I've got mine tapped into the CAN bus so I monitor water temperature off the ECU and switch the cooling fan accordingly. I can also do speed-sensitive wipers, for example. You're right though, I think the only limitation is the number of circuits you can switch/monitor, and your imagination. Or just borrow a high-end Merc S-class and take notes, I imagine .

I quite like the idea of a set of boards made up, but I'd be tempted to go a little step further and make a programmable microcontroller control unit than can do a few circuits as well as just the fog light. Future proof things a little. Think of it as a "mini-PDM", a bit more cost effective and less user-customiseable. Would probably have to identify some decent switching transistors and/or power relays depending on what circuit ratings you wanted to switch (anyone know what 'proper' PDMs use inside them to switch high-load 20A circuits for example? They're too compact to be out-and-out conventional relays). You could incorporate a lights-on warning buzzer as well as fog light cancellation. Intermittent, variable wipe. Auto wipe on wash. Additional clearance wipe a few seconds after a wash. Indicator buzzer. Probably other things too but I can't think of many with so few a set of circuits as we have on a Hood

I shall pop along in a vehicle of some sort but it might not be the Hood

Will be away on a short break so will miss this one Exmo's MOT has expired so it's unlikely it will see the road again before being ripped apart next month

Same thing here, not in the Hood but another noisy car I have. Good source for buzzers (and other electronics stuff) :- http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/sensors.html

Putting the diode in I suspect just turns it into an "alternator" failure warning lamp, rather than the dual function of an "alternator or battery" warning lamp. So it will work when the potential difference flows in the appropriate direction of the diode - in this case I assume it's when the alternator output drops below that of the battery, and current flows from battery back to alternator. But with the diode, it won't light if the alternator voltage is greater than the battery voltage (ie. stuffed regulators). The other thing is that typically LED's need just over 2v PD before they even consider lighting - and their intensity doesn't vary quite so linearly above that, and then they pop when over-volted.... whereas with a 12v bulb, you at least get some analogue indication (via brightness) of how bad the potential difference is So not to worry about having the diode in there; just turns the lamp into a one-way warning, if you like.

Agreed completely with Florin. Depends where you're tapping off - if it's after the resistor you might find the voltage drop across the bulb means the LED doesn't even light. So effectively we're saying wire it 'direct' to the alternator. I think without seeing a wiring diagram!

Atherstone!? You're about 2 miles away from me I didn't get a manual, you got a VHS video tape with basic instructions. I can try and dig it out for you, hopefully I've kept it somewhere I'm sure. Alternatively come to the area meet and you can take a look over my Exmo if you want. Cheers, Dan

One word of caution on the vid; what he doesn't talk about is effective ducting of the air into that angled radiator. By his rationale, tilting the rad 90 degrees would make for all the surface area for cooling but with minimal drag because the rad is horizontal! But of course, that's daft, because the air coming in wouldn't be directed onto the square face of the rad. I pretty sure some analysis would show that as you tilt the radiator from the vertical, at some point the cooling efficiency seriously drops off IF you're not forcing air to go through it. So by that I mean, if you've got gaps above and around your rad, the air will flow OVER the surface of the angled rad and over the top of rad, rather than through it. The ducting idea goes for all rads really, even vertical ones, but just be aware tilting one in your nosecone but leaving ma-hoo-sive gaps around the side won't do it any favours. Probably stating the obvious, but you never know ....