brumster

So on page 6, someone put me out of my misery, am I right in thinking that's Paddy Fitch (ex-GTM) in the background behind Richard's Lambo?

I agree, but the K has kind of had it's day really. It's a cracking engine, and it's unfortunately fallen foul of lots of internet misinformation and Rover re-selling it to others who inappropriately re-packaged it (plus a few quality control issues around the head), but it can be perfectly reliable. And powerful too. But, unless you had a cheap supply on one, it doesn't really make much sense to choose it over some of the newer powerplants like the Duratec, Sigma, or Ecotec lumps. So despite having one, I'm realistic enough to not recommend it - it doesn't have enough "plus-es" to warrant the extra effort/grief.

We went from a 2.1 Pinto to a 1600 K-Series. An odd choice, maybe, but we wanted to move to something modern that would "just start and go" - more power wasn't the main concern, but more of that in a sec. The Pinto was about 130bhp; the K in standard form should be around 109! Bar the obvious engine, we had to source an appropriate bellhousing to mate it to the Type 9, appropriate clutch, modified (lengthened) propshaft, custom exhaust manifold, fuel injection related changes (like high pressure pump, piping, regulator, modified fuel tank), caterham engine mounts and a wiring loom. We also ended up doing a number of other things at the same time, some unrelated (moved to throttle bodies, an aftermarket Emerald ECU, tie bar conversion up front, different radiator setup, OBP pedal box, custom hoses, custom clutch cable) so it would be unfair to suggest all these were needed as well - but some of them made the conversion easier if a little more expensive (the pedal box, for example, freed up a lot of room in the engine bay to avoid induction system meeting vacuum servo!). I've also got the cams/valves/followers/springs to take it up to ~180bhp with the appropriate head work, but these are still in the boxes/wrappers Yep, very happy with it, car feels properly modernised. Undoubtedly easier ways than a K-Series, mind you, but we wanted to be different (this was back in '99). I'd go Duratec now. Certainly wouldn't miss putting a big lump of pig-iron in the front though If you think ~150bhp will be enough for you over the years, the Pinto option will get you there quicker, easier and cheaper as the guys have said above. If you want more, I'd invest in the engine swap now (Zetec/Duratec must be the obvious choice, but don't be put off by something different if you don't mind the challenges of a few more 'custom' parts).

I'm slowly documenting the home-made loom I made up based on a Wurth TRM. When I get it done I'll post up on here for others, but it might be a while :-S !!

Done the same here - when we built the car we had 3pt's in it but it hardly warrants it now, so I put intertia reels in it - just pulled them out of a scrapped 206. The inner mount, for the latch, was re-used. The outer mount at the seat bottom, for the end of the belt, I made a thick steel loop welded onto a flat metal plate which could then be double-bolted through the floor with appropriate spreader plate on the other side. The top mount was already in place on the (cosmetic) RH roll-over hoop, and the intertia reel mount just bolted through the monocoque in the side sections of the rear boot space - keeping their orientation as per the 206 (ie. upright). Just ensure any of the mounting points are suitably solid enough - if you're bolting through sheet metal make sure you put generous 3mm spreader plates on the other side so they're not going to pull straight through if they're called upon :-S !!

The spacers were part of the original supplied parts. To be honest, the whole setup is just wrong - you'll find the top washer was just the right diameter to sit on the inner race of the bearing. But the bearing is a radial-load type, not axial-load which is what it is being subjected to in this instance. Fitting a larger washer may spead the load a little more but won't address the bearing issue (mine was already distorting after only a few thousand miles). I have replaced these with a taper roller bearing as part of my recent rebuild - I did obtain and consider some flat thrust bearings but was concerned about them staying located/ingress of *bleep*e so went half-way house! As long as you've spread the load across a wider section of the buttress I think you'll be better off. Bearings-wise it just might mean you swapping them out a little more regularly as they collapse!

Got any pics? Depends how far the cracks have progressed - I'd make a call on whether to just weld a plate underneath it if there's enough non-cracked metal left, or whether it needs plate sandwiching on top and underneath. If you don't have access to a welder, the latter might be more useful (still located with some smaller-gauge nuts and bolts, of course - I'm not suggesting the plates are left 'free').

Ex-GTM'er myself so had to offer how are you finding the Libra?

I'm in MK twice a week and can get them back to SE Birmingham easily enough sounds like you're sorted but if it helps in any way....

Ok, took a while for the other driveshaft to come in, but it arrived this week. Just to close the topic off, there was nothing complicated about the changeover - 7" diff goes straight in, then I just sourced the later drum-braked spec shafts with the large inboard stubs, and they've gone straight in. Diff - £44 off ebay Shafts £80 and £95 non-exchange (£20 surcharge for not giving them any shafts back) Seals £10 Makes the car a little more sprightly - have to make the most of the 118bhp I've got

Yup, but I remember seeing it (is it the one where he kinda needs to straddle the lines to avoid going into the back of someone as he rounds the corner)?

No problems, sounds excellent. Let me know - like I said, no rush, project for the winter really so as and when. Cheers!

That both halves, laid up with gelcoat+2 layers minimum? They're basically moulds taken off the original Sierra cowling? Do they mount up same as the original? If so, go on then... postage sounds a bit steep but I'll let you off ;-). Can zap cash to you to avoid PayPal charges though - good old t'internet banking Drop me a PM as and when. edit: Actually, just seen the pics on your website... ;-)

Oh no mega rush - and best confirm a price with me first !!

I could do with one of those, let me know when the batch is ready!

Just realised I will be on ToT duty with the little'un first, so may not be there for 7...

Shall pop along, but unlikely to be in the Hood - still waiting on a driveshaft only been 3 weeks now! Let's face it, if the weather is anything like the last two days, it's unlikely anyway - I'd never thaw out in time for last orders.

Nuclear FTW....

Pretty impressive that Nick did it in 1966 though!

I'm glad I'm not the only one who was unimpressed by the space jump thing - I was keeping my head down as it seemed the sun shone from his arse over the past few days, and I'm known for being a miserable bugger so figured I was in the minority. 6000ft, 120,000ft, what's the difference apart from lack of air and a higher speed?! Jump, fall, open parachute, land. Granted there's some skill in controlling the direction of your body but I suspect any long-standing freefaller has plenty of experience in that area. Still, you wouldn't get me doing it so I guess a fair chunk of credit is due! I'll get back to being a miserable git... <mumble mumble>....

I could measure mine later but being an Exmo I don't think they'd necessarily be relevant/accurate

I use these guys, although I appreciate they're not local for you, they're cheaper than Think on braided brake lines (although I do use Think quite a lot) :- http://www.nuneatonhose.co.uk/ Beauty of Nuneaton is they'll do swaged lines to any spec you give them. They're a bit iffy with reuseable fittings because of H&S implications, but they can get them if you want them (they stock a small selection). Think are very good though, great customer service.

Can't say I like the look of the ETB; my choice would be the SPA dash system, but then there is considerable price difference - the ETB is certainly cheap (but looks it). I like the dials of the SPA system, coupled with the features such as the warning lights and analogue speedo. When you think of all the sensors you get with it, it's not actually bad money. Certainly would pick it over a Stack, that's for sure. I really prefer an analgoue tacho, but to be honest my ideal dash display would be a single rev counter, a digital speedo somewhere within it to remain legal, and then no other 'gauges' - just a flourescent/OLED display that remains configurable to display temperatures, pressures or fuel levels. For example, only highlight stuff to me when I need to know (ie. low fuel, low oil pressure, high water temperature) but otherwise allow me to cycle the display with a wheel-mounted button - bit like a modern trip computer as fitted to most new cars these days. Suffice to say I have a very long-term electronics project to make the above but the progress on it is so bad, snails have long since overtaken it (lapped it, even).

You can get cheapy ones on ebay that look that Pacet copies, but I'll tell you now, they do NOT shift air anything like the real thing. having said that, I've got one on the Hood (a £30 jobbie off ebay) and it does the job - but the proper £100 Pacet affairs are night and day difference. You pays your money and all that....

Well that's way easier than expected so far - sourced a new (well, recon) LH shaft for £79 and it's straight in, no issues. The RH one is on order and will be another week, but I'm guessing all is looking well.