brumster
RHOCaR Member
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Posts posted by brumster
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I'd probably get some one-off front hubs machined and get the whole front-end geometry sorted.
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2 hours ago, painter said:
Hell, I don't think I want to climb down there with a cleaning cloth, let alone a welding rig! I had thought of packing out the pedal with an aluminium spacer (rubber coated of course) however not too sure how this would suit the MOT lads. It appears there is no threaded portion of the push rod then?
<laughs> I kinda meant removing the pedal to do it
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Assuming you're happy with it in all aspects other than where the pedal sits, if it's all standard probably the easiest thing to do is part-cut the pedal, bend it out to the position you want, then weld two plates back onto the sides to put the strength back in...
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I can vouch for this guy
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Yeah if left on for years this stuff comes off horrible. Agreed on the acetone/brake cleaner approach but if you're going to paint the panel give it a really good clean afterwards!
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Unless we're talking track car, I'd say windscreen all day every day....
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28 minutes ago, MarkBzero said:
Playing around with the ECU a ME100 and discovered it has a launch control function. Spoken the manufacturer and it appears to be straight forward a dash switch, clutch switch and resistor to 5v reference.
Two questions;
Has anyone else got launch control on their car, does it work effectively?
Will it be OK with standard diff or do you need an LSD diff?
I had this function on a ECU. On the basis it uses no wheel speed sensors, it will be a fairly rudimentary rpm-hold type function. Arm it, clutch depressed activates an rpm-hold so you just bury the throttle and it holds rpm. Pop the clutch and it managed the amount of power released.
You can hear/see it at the start of this video
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2 hours ago, Ashley_Stehr said:
Thanks. I note they are currently out of stock but will see if I can get one. Is there any way of knowing if this is the right one for the column that I have? I believe it is from a Sierra so suggests it is correct. Is anyone aware of anywhere else I could buy one of these?
I'm 99% sure you'll be fine. My car had the old-style flat key barrel originally (1985 model year) and when I built the Zero I bought the new lock style with the more modern Ford key, as per the kit spares link, and it fitted into the steering column no problem. So I think (fingers crossed) they're the same across the model years, they just changed the barrel key fitment, if my experience was anything to go by...
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You can get replacement new ones....
https://www.kitspares.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=681
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The problem on the Exmo is you can't expose the centre tunnel as it's a welded monocoque
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Your other option is down the central tunnel but your challenge is getting in there to pin it in place at regular intervals.
There is nothing in the IVA regs preventing you from routing the pipework internally that I can see. Obviously it needs to be safe, secure, avoid any fouling or rubbing, etc.
Happy to stand corrected if someone believes otherwise but I just skim-read the IVA document and couldn't see anything specific about it?
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Red fibreglass was/is notorious for this; GTMs used to suffer this badly and red was a very popular colour in them. I'm sure it was down to something used as the pigment, that made it the worst colour for being affected by UV rays. Back in the 90's I used a special polish that was supposed to minimise this (a boat polish) on my GTM and it kept it pretty well for several years.
Mind you this is all bit "after the horse has bolted" for you, sorry
!
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This layout gives way better clearing of screen for the driver, it gets up nicely on the right-hand edge (as the driver sees). I spent a long time carefully trialling and positioning the blades to work out where the holes would go (my car wasn't pre-drilled, thankfully). I was so thankful of these at the Wales weekend the other year - they really made the whole weekend so more "pleasure" than "pain" :). Standard Defender wiper motor in terms of sweep angle/gear.
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I had a muckaround with that! Quite cool
still turned out more expensive than the epoxy (for mine at least) but at least you could have some cool patterns!
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Here you go! CL reference is the tab on the back of the dashboard/scuttle. All measurements are mm.
One thing I would say is remember there's a certain amount of adjustment in the wiper blade (for me at least) they can be varied in length and bent (and they needed it!)
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I'll do it tomorrow for you
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We had an Exmo with a rolling-road confirmed 130bhp Pinto. On a 4 speed box it did 0-60 in just under 7 seconds, measured with a proper acceleration timer that RHOCaR had (done at a Curborough track day, hot day, dry, good conditions and good launch). So, I'm afraid, if you're dreaming of a sub-5 second performance, dream on
People's definitions of fast are different. Even my current Zero (180ish bhp, a whole load lighter and with a proper 6 speed gearbox) I do not consider "fast".
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Ah ok yeah, they're a bit cheaper....!
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At £36 per sq/m I'd politely disagree!
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I put resincoat epoxy on mine which is fantastic BUT...
i) I had the luxury of having put down fresh concrete so I know it was clean
ii) it's hard work cleaning the dust off the floor beforehand
ii) it is hard work spreading it on quick enough before it sets
I recommend it but you'd need a clean floor beforehand... you can get big surface-grinder style polishers that can take a layer of concrete off but then it's get even more expensive
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!
still turned out more expensive than the epoxy (for mine at least) but at least you could have some cool patterns!
ST170 crankshaft main bearing torque
in Engine
Posted
Your main end bolts are typically much bigger though, plus they're not getting flung around at several thousand rpm
I would just suspect the loading on the rods is higher than the crank caps, but that's just my FingerInTheAir-o-meter working rather than anything quantifiably backed up by science 