gr8nomad

Need to know basis...

2b cruising, you are a very naughty boy! Jelleyhead, I found a scoop at carbonmods - http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Products/Carbon-Fibre-Kit-Car-Bonnet-Scoop__CMBSCLG01.aspx It certainly solved the problem when my Honda engine stuck through the bonnet. It needs some sika flex to old it down. At the front, where the greatest protrusion is, it gives about 60mm extra clearance. Good luck

But they are a good idea. I have them and I am sure they help people see you coming (and believe me Ozzie drivers need all the help they can get!).

Ooooh, you are all very naughty boys!

Thanks 2b cruising. I have a heat shield that is very effective at doing that, but the issue is the hot air swirls up into the cockpit, just as water does when it is raining. I am guessing that you would be able to relate to that

Hello Whiz, Really like the detail in your car. Puts my Zero Gt to shame. Can you tell me where you got the tonneau and side sections from. I have a S2000 engine in mine and the exhaust exits to the right, needless to say, things get dammed hot in our summer, and I was hoping the side sections would deflect some of the exhaust heat. Cheers Geoff

Hi Dendeel, yes there are certainly times when you feel that you are out there with no help, but as CMA points out the norm is to go and visit them. That gets results, but not an option for folk in the colonies... at least you do not get reminded about the ships and thieves and rascals all the time! Knights_templar has given you the links, but it did occur to me that you may not have established an account on the Kit Spares site and so may not be able to order the right item without an account. I must say I have never had any trouble actually ordering items on the site, and the delivery time has been excellent. Good luck.

Folks, I have the same m/c (from Kit spares) and it is now weeping from the plunger end. I have searched the entire globe for a repair kit to no avail, the closest I got was brakeparts.co.uk but the repair kit is out of stock and out of production and to really kick a bloke when he is down - they do not ship to Australia...something about ships and thieves.... I am running the standard Sierra calipers front and back in my Zero. Can anyone suggest an alternative m/c or where I can get a repair kit. Any suggestions gratefully received.

Hi sparkybagnal, I would ask 2 questions - 1) why do you not want to get a tank made to fit by GBS, and 2) what engine are you running? Whilst I have tremendous respect for Shaft's experience and wisdom, will a high pressure pump at the rear of the car give adequate pressure in the fuel rail 2 metres away? A swirl pot in the engine bay is not that big a deal, but I have to admit that 2 fuel pumps is a pain in the R's. Really like your radiator, and once again I hope it was made to compliment your engine,; good price too even at the current exchange rate

For what it is worth, I had much the same issue (although I do not have a servo system) and despite putting gallons of brake fluid through the system in an attempt get a proper pedal, it was all fail. I was bleeding the lines with a compressor driven bleeder and manually - all to no avail. Take this as you will, but I have a tilt trailer to transport the car while it is still in the build stage and after a fouple of "on and offs" the trailer - lo and behold I got a good pedal. I believe the problem was an air lock somewhere in the line to the rear (yes rear), and putting the car on and off the trailer put enought angle (about 35deg) on the line to shift the air lock. I'm in Oz otherwise I would offer to lend you the trailer. My car is now finished and has passed the brake test with flying colours. Geoff

Problem solved. Somehow the auto elec that did the initial work had made the earth wire on the headlight switch cluster into an active wire.

Sorry folks, I have been away for a couple of days. Snowy, can I ask if swapping the earth and active on the relay will fix it? b3nny, yes with the ignition on, I have dipped beam and high beam but it will not flash.

Hi floks, I have a problem with my main beam flash function and seek the guidance of the masters of the black art. My lights all work as they should with the ignition off, but when I turn the ignition on, I loose the flash function. Is this a problem with the live and earth on the relay being the wrong way around? Your help would be appreciated. Cheers Geoff

I have a similar problem and seek the guidance of the masters of the black art. My lights all work as they should with the ignition off, but when I turn the ignition on, I loose the flash function. Is this a problem with the live and earth on the relay being the wrong way around? Your help would be appreciated.

Now that is really close to what I am experiencing. I have put over 2 lts of fluid through the system but have been getting bubbles all the time. It did occur to me that it was getting in somewhere around the nipple i.e where the tubing was connect to it, but it just defied logic - the bubbles are definitely coming out of the nipple. I tried my compressor vacumn kit on it again this afternoon but without any result - it barely sucked any fluid through at all. Air getting in around the threads would explain that. Thanks Ed(?). Is grease the best solution?

Thanks folks. I have a compressor powered vacumn bleed kit, but it did not seem to be doing the job. Bit gentle on the suction, and lots of minute bubbles in the bleed line that did not seem to make sense. I will have another go using the vacumn.

Pardon my stupidity, but I do not understand how/why a new master cylinder would need bleeding separately. I would have expected that bleeding at the calipers would clear any air in both the MC and lines. I guess I am just frustrated as I have bled my lines every which way, and am reluctant to undo the connections to the MC. I am already doing laps in the spilt fluid...:-( The MC is the "new Ford Sierra Brake Master Cylinders have 3 outlets, 2 to the front brakes and 1 to the rear brakes". It shouldn't be this hard!

Thanks Shaft, Richard and Grim. It is all good advice that I will follow. Must admit that the M10's did look a bit big for the job - not to mention the hole in the chassis Grim! Shaft, I am a little intrigued by your comment about setting the steering column, It doesn't appear to me to have any room for adjustment. I would like it a little further out from the dash panel, but cannot see how to achieve that in the column, which is why I was querying moving the dash forward. BTW, I have your build blog bookmarked, and it has been a great source of enlightenment for me thus far. Richard, just to clarify, I should be looking for the bonnet to overlap/sit on top of the scuttle by about 2 cm? Yes, mine is a GT or wide body' as it was known when I purchased it. Many thanks again, and I love the time zone thing. I can ask a question and as I sleep on it, answers are there when I wake up Geoff

Hi Tom, I am going with M10 rivnuts to hold the scuttle sides to the chassis; used M6 along the front. Probably a bit of over-kill on the side, but I fugure it is going the be the area of most stress. I have a question for you and the rest of the community - what is the set-back from the rear edge of the scuttle to the dashboard? I have put the former in at the depth of the tabs i.e about 30 mm, but I now find that the (pre-cut) hole for the steering column and switch stalks does not fit. What has everyone else done - before I go cutting large chunks out? Geoff

G'day Tom, I share your concern/pain. I am fitting the scuttle at the moment but I have found that the rivnut holes in the flange on the firewall did in fact match up and the vertical plane matched the back of the chassis cross member - give or take... It seems at times that offering the piece up for the tird or forth time seems to make the difference. It is a real pity that there is no difinitive answer on the GBS/Kitspare website, but there you go. I found the various build blogs/diaries to be most helpful. I am planning to put the battery tray on top og the flange ( mainly because I think it will look neater) but there is nothing anywhere to suggest this s the right or wrong way. What I would say is that you need to take into consideration the fitment of the pedal box as well , and I an not sure how the battery tray on top of the firewall flange and under the pedal box flange will look in my build. Having given you my 6 penn'th worth, I have to commend you for being out in the garage in the weather that you are having at the moment. I find it much easier to think in the 30+ degrees we are having BTW, if you think this part is difficult, wait til you get to the electrics!! Geoff

I have just checked WB - still in bulid stage and they are located 130mm to the rear and 40 mm above the seat belt mount. That put it just a whisker in front of the seat back panel. This is pretty much as Lowlife reported above, and there would be every reason to suspect that the access hole has been covered by carpet of the like. Hope that helps. gr8nomad - from down under.

Hi bolton1966, XR6 ute eh, hmmm bet you don't have anything quite like that over there... but you do have a great kit car market. What engine have you put in the zero? I will give some thought as to how to fill your friend's suitcase. Cheers Geoff

Apologies Simon, the meaning of your note got lost in the translation from English to Orstralyun. Would be happy to have a look at your next 'batch'. Mick, I will mention it next time I contact the guy in Sydney. March/April will be a good time to visit Sydney. Cheers Geoff

Hi mower man, your spring or mine? I am in Melbourne, so it is unlikely that we will catch up, unless you are in the mood for a 1000 km drive for the day There is however a nice car just out of Sydney that is being built (and should definitely be on the road by then). It is a zetec engined Zero (not WB/GT). I would be happy to put you in touch with the builder if you wish. He is an ex pom (30+ years ago) and also has a Merlin that he built here in 1992. Simon, thanks for the offer, but I do not need any new poo - and besides I can get any quantity I like from the factory (ex VAT of course). Geoff

I am also interested in this subject as my WB Zero kit did not include a steering column shroud. Living in Australia means that Sierra bits are more rare than rocking horse poo, so any suggestions regarding alternatives (no, not for rocking horse poo) would be great. Cheers Geoff