steve in stockport

is it using coils on the plug?

If it is it may be that coil is breaking down, easy enough to check just move the 'suspect' coil to another cylinder as you would with a spark plug and see if the fault moves cylinder.

Just found a PDF by AP Racing but can copy it into here.

It says with bias/balance bar systems that a front and a rear wheel should be bled simultaneously so that both cylinders stroke equally to avoid overloading one side of the balance bar.

So a three man job, one on pedal and one on the front wheel and one on the back.

Google bleeding brakes with balance bar for the full PDF and it's on page 5 of 6

Isn't there a specific procedure to bleed bias brakes, ie slacken bleed one side, slacken bleed other side then set the bias? Might be talking rubbish though.

Is it still running the twin master cylinders and balance bar that Dave fitted? Might be the balance bar not sitting quite right after bleeding as I remember it was a bit tight for space in that area and possible for the bar to get snagged

Double post so removed

Fire it up again and then pull plug 3 and have a look at ithe and see whether it's wet or dry. I reckon it'll be dry as it's not getting any fuel and you've probably got a blocked main jet or stuck float/blocked needle valve on carb 3

That was Simon's car not long ago and has had a couple of owners and a bit of a checkered history just recently, read the link below

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=44423&hl=simon&do=findComment&comment=361268

I researched al this last year prior to selling my 2B and the best caliper to get seemed to me to be the Fiesta ST150 as the carriers were a direct bolt on swap with M10 bolts so no need to drill out the mounting holes. Just about all the other calipers are M12 as above unless you can get hold of some 2wd Cosworth items.

I actually advertised the ST carriers on here after selling up, but there was no interest so put them in the scrap bin at the tip.

After last year you might be best just to apply for individual exhibitors passes and agree a time and location to meet prior to entry then you will still end up together and won't upset the organisers if the weather sees a few off and leaves an empty club stand.

Just do it!

Had a 280bhp/300lb torque Z20LET in my 2B before selling it last year, Kerry has a Z20LET putting out pretty much the same power in his and there are several others with cossies and V8 engines around the 300bhp mark without any problems.

Obviously you'll need to sort braking and suspension to match the power output

Instead of keep setting up new emails and logins PM Perdy and ask her for the club PayPal email address, pay the fee and once she has the payment she can ask Rob to alter your forum status.

PS this isn't a route all potential members should take as the membership tab usually works in 99.9% of cases.

Quick shift, C spanner and mazda caliper hangers sold via Facebook.

There appear to be different fees for different caterories of items on ebay.

The fees for motors list the following:

Listing a car for sale is £10 for an auction ad

Buy it now £2.99

Reserve price £7.99 - so in effect £21 per each of Pete's ads, total of £63

Or there are the standard reserve price fees which are 4% of the reserve price, which in Pete's case was £3000 so a fee of £120 per ad. Doesn't say whether these fees only apply when the item sells, probably not as that's how they make their money. Also doesn't make it clear whether the motors fees are independant of or additional to the standard fees.

Good luck with trying to get it sorted. Anything that I list on ebay I usually list with a start price of what I'd be happy with as a minimum and anything above that is a bonus, also avoids the reserve price fees.

Centre parcs, the oxo tower and some hair removal cream should just about do it!

I was lucky Pete, the buyer is on my friends list.

Is your Facebook profile private or public? If you make your whole profile public then anybody can see your posts, other than that you're relying on people sharing it for you.

Mine was advertised on cars and classics too, plenty of hits but no interest but it is free so worth a punt

Cheers guys and thanks for the comments.

Car was sold through the magic of facebook for £5.5k which I'm more than happy with. I reckon I've put about £9k into the car over the years, so that gives me 11 years of driving 'pleasure', good times, great experiences, great memories and great friends for £3.5k or in real terms less than a pound a day.

Ken, the top was my own creation, if you're interested I can make templates of the panels before it goes then you can try and get one made up.

I've got to get a couple of flags back to Phil for the EOSB and it's so tempting to give it one final run out, but we all know what would probably happen so she'll stay tucked up in the garage until she goes on the trailer.

Not sure yet Rob, hopefully something that Laura will actually get into and enjoy without the need for sedatives or alcohol!

Provisionally sold pending payment then off to spend it's days ripping up the roads of southern France

Some more photos

Thanks for looking.

Built by me over two years between 2003 and 2005 from Sierra Ghia donor, SVA passed and first registered September 2005.

Correctly registered on V5 as Robin Hood.

Vauxhall Z20LET 2.0 litre 16 valve turbocharged engine, mapped by Bailey Performance, running a sensible and safe 12lbs of boost and producing 278bhp and 295 lb/ft torque.

Z20LEH/VXR turbo and bosch blue fuel injectors.

Management by Emerald K6 ECU.

Innovate MTX – L wideband lambda sensor and gauge.

3 core alloy radiator and revotec 10” fan, large alloy intercooler, oil cooler.

High and low pressure fuel pumps and alloy swirl pot.

3” stainless exhaust with 700mm x 150mm repackable silencer.

ETB 80mm speedo and tacho, 52mm fuel, temperature and volts gauges, black bezels with white faces and red needles, TIM boost gauge, black bezel and white face.

Black Cobra Roadster 7 seats with red piping.

5 speed type 9 gearbox.

3.62 diff, motorway cruising speed is just over 3000rpm, also have 3.9 diff if needed for quicker acceleration.

Gaz coilover shock absorbers all round.

Sierra disc and drum, non-servo brakes, Mintex 1144 front pads, Westfield tandem master cylinder.

Full set of unmarked Robin Hood alloy wheels, 195/50/15 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo tyres.

Half hood which converts to a full roof by the addition of a zip in panel and sidescreens/doors.

Mild steel chassis with stainless steel body panels, red GRP and black carbon fibre effect wrapped scoop on the nose cone all in good order, front wishbones, roll bar and rear suspension might benefit from a coat of paint if you’re so inclined.

12.5 months MOT until September 13^th 2017

I built this car over a two year period around a Sierra donor and a pinto power unit, after three years on the road this was swapped for a Vauxhall 20XE red top engine. Three years ago in 2013 I changed the power unit again to the Z20LET turbo engine from Vauxhall. This was changed again for another engine after a tuner managed to melt a piston on a rolling road session. The new engine had covered less than 5000 miles in a Zafira GSi prior to a fire destroying the interior of the car and has been in the 2B since early 2014. During the course of this engine swap the car the wiring was also updated with a new fuse box and relay box and a new engine bay loom created to run the engine and fuel system, as well as chopping the alligator bonnet to provide a fixed scuttle and hinged bonnet.

Over the eleven years it has been on the road the car has covered over 43,500 miles and taken me on at least one excursion to the continent each year without any major issues – the wiper motor did fall into the wife’s lap one rainy day in France, but that’s about it.

Advertising for sale as I’m not using the car as much as I used to do, only covered 2,500 miles since last MOT and also the Mrs won’t go out in it any more as it scares her since the latest engine change making weekend trips out together a thing of the past.

So if you’re looking for a fast, scary, reliable, well-built kit car, one of only a handful to feature the Z20LET engine, that will return 30 mpg around town and 35 mpg cruising, one you can just drive, enjoy and add a bit of bling to if you wish, then this could be the car for you.

Price £5250.00 but will consider sensible offers

Tel 07944 615999 or message me, will be advertising elsewhere over the weekend, thanks

Is that a partial rewrite of the ecu or do you mean partial rewire?

If it's rewrite you may need a new/second hand ecu, that part number comes back as for a c20xe calibra or a 2.0 vectra from 93-95.

If it's rewire you probably need to check connections, power and earth's.

An aftermarket ecu is going to be at least £400 if you go that route

Is this any use to you Ken, new old stock throttle body with tps for a scorpio DOHC

Link

Bosh blue injectors from Astra VXR in mine, good for well over 300bhp before they start nearing their limit.

Sytec 3 bar high pressure pump mounted under the boot floor near the tank. I think it's rated for 225 litres/hour but can't remember now, could be l/min?

Original VXR fuel rail and manifold pressure controlled pressure regulator

8mm fuel lines.

I know antb was using a subaru impreza in tank pump on his cossie powered 2B which is another option.

So you have the original fan switch and an after market switch. Chances are the original switch is goosed and rather than find a replacement someone fitted the after market one.

Decide what temperature you want the fan to come on at, decide which of the switches you're going to replace and then find a switch with the temp range you require in the thread size you need.

90/92 on and 87/85 off is about the range you need. Have a look at intermotor for switches.

Then wire up with a relay. I like the option of the fan working without ignition in case of heat soak so have wired the relay with two permanent positive supplies and a switched earth via the fan switch, not to everybody's taste but it works and there's no battery drain.