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Fitting New Style Cycle Wing Brackets


Guest Twoscoops

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Guest Twoscoops

I picked up my 2B in May this year and I was wondering if anyone could pass on any tips with regards to fitting the brackets on the dummy McPherson struts (I've got the coilovers).

 

Which way do they go round?

What are the extra two 'snap off tabs' used for on the brackets?

Do I fit the dummy struts right into the hub so the brackets are pinched tight?

 

Thanks in advance....

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Which way do they go round?

 

The angled section of tube faces the front of the car. When you cut the multi-bend tube you get two 90 degree bends which go at the front onto this "angled up" part of the bracket, and you get 2 pieces with two bends in each which are handed and go towards the rear.

 

What are the extra two 'snap off tabs' used for on the brackets?

 

Snap them off, put the main part of the bracket under the dummy strut, and then put the two "snap off" bits from the remaining tabs onto the pinch bolt of the hub, one at the front, and one at the rear. Then with it all lined up drill and bolt the tabs together. The best setting I could find was with the front part of the brackets parallel to the wheel, and the rear part with about 1/4 inch gap from the tyre. Cut the multibend tube and the collars and play with them before you fix the bracket to the hub. The tab on the outer side of the bracket is bent down slightly and bolted to the hub too.

 

Do I fit the dummy struts right into the hub so the brackets are pinched tight?

 

Yes in the first instance, but I then lifted mine slightly for a couple of reasons ... neither reason relates to the cycle wing brackets. Firstly I wanted to lift the upper wishbone slightly to give me more clearance around the coilover. Secondly, lifting the dummy strut makes the top wishbone closer to horizontal, which means it moves the top of the wheel in as the hub rises under load. If it's horizontal or almost horizontal with the weight on the car then you will get the wheel tipping in at the top when you corner, which is how double wishbones are designed to work.

 

Hop that lot helps. There's photos of it all at various points on my web page.

 

Ant

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Guest TerryBarry

The dummy struts fit with the thinner end facing the wheel

The "extra" brackets go under the pinch bolt ( You'll need a longer bolt and a nut)

and bolt to the two "ears" on the main support.

I've fitted my dummy struts as low as they go and thus they clamp the bracket as well.

I've also put a spacer between the other tab (outboard side) and the Sierra swivel hub as the metal did not want to bend enough to bring the two into direct contact.

However others have mounted the dummy struts higher up out of the swivel and there has been recent comment re' rotating the dummy strut to alter the castor angle.

Here a pic - unfortunately its all painted gloss black

Terry

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Guest TerryBarry

Yes ( Just )

It's possible to get a couple of cigarette papers in there when the wheels are clear of the ground.

I don't think (hope) that adjusting the coil overs to increase ground clearance will alter this :unsure:

I've drilled the RS recommended hole in the swivel hub for the locking bolt that goes through the dummy strut but not drilled into the strut until I'm certain of the positioning.

Also, whilst I had the lower wishbones off to fit infill panels, I made and fitted two locking pegs to prevent possible rotation of the lower ball joints. The peg is made from 6mm steel and secured with two M5 setscrews and nylocks.

Terry

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Guest TerryBarry

Ant,

As you might imagine the one on the other side is at a different angle - the cut-outs are in a different orientation.

I don't think that the bottom ball joint should rotate - but that plate should prevent it.

Royalty payments on the design could be negotiated should we meet up at a bar,

But considering the number of ideas I've pinched off builder's websites (and cars) I would probably end up severely out of pocket.

Terry

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