All Activity

Hello, Got myself a Robin Hood 2B. Going to modernize the whole car and want to put a 1.6 Eco boost engine in it with a mk3 mx5 gearbox and lsd. Has anyone done something like this. Not interested in doing a Duratec etc Thanks Daniel

OOH ECK! I don't think you're going to be able to use that pulley again ! One suggestion is an angle grinder with a cutting disc, cut through the pulley in line with the crankshaft, (along the keyway is the thinnest bit). When you're nearly through, support the pulley securely, put a chisel in the cut and hit it (hard). Hopefully the pulley will split and you can then pull it off. If that doesn't shift it put another cut in the pulley on the opposite side. Good luck, Steve

Hi all I've removed my engine from my car and stripped it down ready for new pistons and a rebuild. I'm struggling with removing the outer pulley on the crankshaft. I've used pulleys, heated it and soaked in oil all to no success, in doing so ive now snapped the outer of pulley off and was looking for suggestions on how to remove the rest ? Has anyone manged this before Many thanks Rory

I've got a pair of original 2b top wishbones if thats what you mean.

Sorry sold

Do you still have the wet weather gear? Would it fit a sub-k?

I've reluctantly decided to sell my much loved Robin Hood EXMO as at my age and with some health issues I need something with doors. The car is refusing to start at the moment despite all my efforts but I have not got the time or expert knowledge to sort it. It's been stood idle for the last 6 or 7 months and I need the garage space. the car is in good condition with no problems apart from not starting. The engine is a professionally re-built 2lt ford Pinto (205 block) with a Kent cams FR 32 fast road cam with Bosch modified distributor to match the cam, Kent adjustable cam pulley, twin Dellorto DHLA 40 carbs, lightened and balanced flywheel, 4/2/1 exhaust manifold and all new coil ,distributer cap, plug leads and plugs, fresh oil and filter. I've recently built and fitted a new dash and new instruments. The tyres are reasonably good Yokohama A539s on ford alloy rims. This would be a good project for anyone wanting a low cost project for anyone with a little more time and knowledge than myself. It has an MOT until April 24. I'm looking at around £1250 for it which is far les than the cost of the many tuning and modifying parts alone which are on the car and have done less than 1000 miles apart from the second hand carbs. Anyone interested can message me on the club site. I have pictures if required which I can send via mobile phone. Russell Flemming RHOCAR member.

Hi All, Anyone fancy a trip through the famous Blackpool illuminations and a bag of chips and a chat? We did one last year but in December, dry but cold and we just caught the chippy before it shut!!! It would be a last minute 'ish' notice to fit in with the weather maybe a Monday or Wednesday in October. Last time we met at 7.30pm at B&Q Blackpool drove through the lights, didn't stop to take a photo by the tower (will rectify that this year!!!) and had some chips (may need to find an open one before the trip) Let me know Darrell

Details of my annual road trip to Wales is in my blog (with video at the end): https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2023/09/another-year-another-wales.html

I used ITG sock filters on bike carbs. They were tested on a rolling road and made no loss in performance.

Thanks Steve! The cable is still free to move in its casing as I have the exhausts wrapped in heat absorbing wrap. The cable can be released and the yellow quadrant moved ok

P S will see you all there Allan

Hi Harry whats up are you water soluble Best regards tongue in cheek Allan.

Yes, you have to stretch them over the trumpets - go gently, it's easy to get too enthusiastic and rip them. Don't ask how I know !!! They come in a variety of sizes and I would recommend going for the longest you can fit in between carb and side panel. As long as they were kept clean I didn't find any noticeable difference in performance.

The cam marking is an indicator and you may not necessarily get them exact. Also if the head has been skimmed it will put it out, if you really want to get it right use a vernier pulley and set it up correctly.

Perfect cheers mate I'm guessing they just slot over the trumpets, I'm aware I might need to adjust carbs a little to allow for the slight air restriction

I used to have foam filters on mine - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352081220887 Steve

The sierra clutch pedal mechanism should self adjust the cable, cutting the tube would at best do nothing, at worst it might stuff it altogether. If you lift the clutch pedal the mechanism should release the ratchet on the yellow quadrant and you should be able to move the quadrant by hand - this is how you release the tension to change the cable. By doing this you can see if it is being pulled by the pedal and can take any tension off the cable. Are you sure that the clutch cable is OK, or has it melted where it passes by the exhausts ? This is a common problem which causes the cable to stick in the outer and then it doesn't release the clutch properly. Steve

Hi all, On releasing the clutch pedal fully, the 2B+ TRIES to pull forward slightly then does nothing and doesn’t move. It feels like a bit more clutch cable travel being released would let the car start travelling forward maybe. I’m considering cutting off/shortening the clutch cable tube on the top of the pedal box(about 1” long, circled in photo). Has anyone tried this as a cure/had similar problem during their build?? Thanks folks

I will be there with the car weather permitting too lol

Hi guys me again, one of the 1st things I would like to do when the car arrives is look into the carb filters (or lack of) as you can see in the pics, there's no filtration of any kind on the carbs, my question is can I get filters to slide over the ram pipes or is it better to take the ram pipes off and fit filter? Or is it better to leave as it is? I know years ago a few layers of the misses tights would have sufficed buy I want to do this one properly lol

I don't mind a bit of rewiring, from the sound of it there's a fair bit of wiring to sort on the car already, I'm sure it could be done with a bit of time and patience, I have plenty of time but not a lot of patience lol

Aim dashboards are probably the best around

After a lot of messing around, checking timing, changing cylinder head, changing plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizi cap...I've finally found the source of my engine running problem. Frustratingly, after all that, it was just a blocked fuel filter on the carb. I've got a weber 32/36 and beneath the carb there is a 19mm brass nut, underneath the nut there is a small filter, which was full of black detritus. Never realised there was a filter there...now I do, cleaned and she now starts and idles just fine, hallelujah! Just in time for summer, oh bugger. At last, the upgrade to 2.0 and stage 3 head is complete, only took me a year.