All Activity

Time for one more meet before we have a rest for Xmas. Plan is to visit the Harvest Barn Cafe (https://harvestbarn.co.uk/) on Tuesday 29th. It's just outside Peterborough (PE7 3DR) so it's a nice run out for the East of England members. I will probably have to book a table so if anyone wants to join us let please let me know by Monday lunchtime so I know the numbers. Al

There used to be a pinned notice on this site for improving the rear axle location on these models

YEEEEHHHHHHH SOLVED, its the second photos my car exactly, a s7 cortina subframe kit, Many many thanks for your help Alan, Great help

Aww, i recon you could be right??? thanks for your help DanDan62.

HI Alan, I will be there.

my apologies for being late to the party, but is this vehicle still for sale?

It's sold.

£4730. So I guess the owner pocketed about £4500 after charges. Bearing in mind the time of year I think that was a reasonable price. I've always said that a fully registered, MOT'd Superspec in good condition should fetch around £5000, so I was close.

Hi and welcome. The reference to 1980 will be the date the donor car was first registered.

Hi did you sell the weather gear or is it still available Thanks

See You There

No, but I might be interested in one of your NS hubs if you can find an OS one to replace it! There are a number of ‘old stock’ RH/OS hub housings on eBay from the same seller, albeit ABS type (and note he also has 4x4 type that are different too). Chris

Have a look here: https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm

Hello all, Does anyone have a o/s/f hub from an early Ford Sierra they don't want? Mine seems to have two N/S ones and no ABS. Thanks Neil. PS I am in Oxfordshire

HI i recently won a bid for this Robin Hood on ebay. I have no idea what kit it is? Its an early one for sure, reg doc says it was constructed in 1980 ?. It has a 2l pinto engine mated to a 4 speed capri box, to a live [ Escort ] back axle. It appears to use a cortina crossmember bolted to the body tub and is modified [ cut off ] at the front of the antiroll bar mounting points. This sticks out the body slightly at the front [ but has been hid with spotlights] Rather unsightly and questionable engineering, Iv only found two fairly heavy big bolts holding the subframe on so far, and a few wee 10mm bolts at the top mounting point, but typical Robin Hood engineering [ Iv built an Exmo back in the day]. Can any members shed some light on what kit it is?

Did anyone see how much the super spec went for that was auctioned last week ?

This will probably be the last meeting of the year, so looking forward to seeing you all at the Church Mouse, Chester Moor, DH23RJ. Hopefully we might get some dry weather as I hope to give the kit a run out.

Lovely Car Mate! think i have this around as i am in Ashford

Thanks for the info Ian, still getting used to the site!

Incidently this post should be in Chassis not lightweight. The robin hood lightweight was a short lived aluminium mono kit, thankfully long discontinued.

Thanks Ian. it might - I might have to buy or get made some longer plates for the lift as not long enough as standard but there’s always a way?

At the back the rear subframe is good as it has a large spreader plate bolted on top of the floor. At the front I have always used the inboard mounting points of the track control arms, I am unsure if your jack system will work for points that far apart. I once saw a MOT tester jack my car from the rear anti roll bar mounts and cringed but no harm was done.

I have just bought an Exmo and about to Jack it up to change fluids etc and have a pair of lifts I usually use but not looking promising for jacking points…..anyone have any advice? I really like using these lifts as they get the car full off the ground safely and level to help with draining fluids, etc. I have attached photo of the situation.

Its important to set the castor equally each side, or you will have a permanent pull to one side. It may even be worth shortening the crush tubes and infilling with a spacer front or back, if possible ,to move the top wishbone backwards or forwards. These chassis were never set up very accurately, so you have to resort to adjusting out any inaccuracies. Dont worry about trying to set up the coilovers identically (see above!) More important is identical ride heights, once the car is on its wheels, or better still setting corner weights once the car is finished. HTH

No spacers within the rectangular box section cross members at the front - I am using non standard poly bushes and corresponding crush tubes that are well matched to the width of the box section. The rear (open) cross members are more challenging on my chassis with definitely a few mm difference in longitudinal position of the upper angle section between both sides. There is a correspondingly different thickness spacer on the rear side of the upper wishbone rear mount to compensate. Even so, the measured castor angle of the two front hubs is also a couple of degrees different between sides.