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You're having a laugh aren't you? It's an advert from 2011.

Do you still have the manifold and how much cheers

I would have one or two.

Dave never made them due to an issue with rights but Kit spares /GBS do sell the later Robin Hood Union badges but they don't list the earlier yellow and green archer badges. https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/all/gen-1

Hi Dave, I am after 2 nose cone metal badges for my 1986 Robin Hood. Are you able to supply them and send them over to Melbourne Australia?

Hi Vic It is yes give me a ring on 07933463471 Thanks Tez

https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/forum/59-magazine-digital-copies

It's just a matter of trial and error but I also found it very hard initially. My shocks had 20 clicks from one end to the other. After some attempts, I eventually settled on 6 clicks up from softest at the front and 5 at the rear.

Amazingly, I do Amazingly, I do. However, it would be easier to find the sub-forum which has the old magazines posted. I cannot find that sub-forum myself - maybe someone knows where it is? You need the Spring 2020 and Summer 2020 magazine. If you cannot find it on the forum, let me know your email address and I'll send them over.

Thanks mate, my turn to get the choccy biscuits in next time I see you 😄

Another cracking day, lovely to meet new people with the same interest. As you can see we spent a lot of time comparing engines. Personally I was pleased to see three Superspecs together. Looking forward to the next one.

Two on their way to Foz, 3 pairs left.

Yes please Richy, I'll have a couple. It seems a shame to chuck them and I'm guaranteed to need one if I haven't got any 😀

I still have these available. @Foz do you still want one / two?

I've finally managed to resize some pictures, so here we go

Sorry, I probably didn't write it up propperly. But that is exactly what I did. 1) Remove the vacuum hose 2) set the timing by ear (turn the dizzy back and forth) to the sweet spot 3) check the timing result with the strobo light (=20 degrees without vacuum). 4) then re-attached the vacuum hose and checked the total timing advance when reving: No substancial change (within <2 degrees) in idle when vacuum is attached. At mid to high rpm I got a max of about 46-48 degrees. With that I hear no pinging or such.. But to be safe, I went back to the 16 degrees idle advance, which gives me a max advance including vacuum of about 42-44 degrees. Concerning the (too) big floating chamber valve I mentioned above: I changed that back an hour ago to the 200 size valve that was originally in the DGV. First impression from around the block says that it didn't change much. But it takes a bigger tour to really check that.

Tbh the first thing you have done wrong is check the timing with dizzy vacuum still attached, usually the timing would be @12 degrees before tdc , That’s at the start get the engine to normal running temp then disconnect the vac pipe from the dizzy check the timing with no vac pipe on move the timing to zero degrees , then reattach your vac pipe to the dizzy and it should be correct when you throttle up the timing will move up to accommodate the request for more fuel and air , also running rich will only over a period of time burn out ,plugs, valves, and piston crowns.

With rising costs and the end of the season it causes people to be more cautious.

Unfortunately I will be at a lorry meet in Nottingham.

Is this still for sale?

Evening all. Have recently finished a Haynes Locost which I am currently working to get it through the IVA test. First time on the road, I was very disappointed with it. Suspension was rock solid and it was bouncing all over the place Suspect spring rates completely wrong. Can anyone suggest rates for comfortable road use please. Running Gaz shocks with 8 inch springs. Mike

Thanks. I have a lambda gauge built into my dash to see the mixture in real time when driving (a gadget I no longer want to miss). So I can do my own field tests by driving around the block... :-) When holding speed, the mixture is at a perfect AFR 14 and that works at all rpm. Only when I push down the pedal, the mixture turns rich (AFR 11-12) and stays there as long as I accellerate. The slower I accellerate and the less I push down the pedal the richer it gets. The moment I stop accellerating, mixture goes back to normal. A smaller main jet would fix that but it would also make my holding mixture too lean. So that is not an option. And the air correction jet is only active at higher rpm, where the rich mixture issue is actually less than at lower rpm. There is a thing that came to my mind today: A year or two ago, I my engine choked when accelerating because the floating chamber basically fell dry. I then drilled an extra hole into the floater valve to increase the fuel flow when it opens before I found that by fuel pump was broken. That extra hole might actually be the cause. I will check if an original valve changes anything. If that's not it, I will (have to) cope with it. Too rich is better than too lean. And holding mixture is fine anyway. Without the lambda gauge I wouldn't even know that the mixture is too rich :-)