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ditto, that's what I am trying not to have to do lol but if I cannot get it to work that be my option too.

I am finding your description a just little confusing. By "compression struts" do you mean tie bars that can be adjusted, as opposed to the ARB that can't be adjusted.

Thats very clever, an elegant solution. One more factor to add into the considerations, the volatility of the fuel. Presumably the carb was designed before the days of E10 or E5 fuels, when there were usually two octane levels available, regular and super. The timing for a fuel that burns slowly woluld (I think) need to be more advanced than for a fast burning fuel. I guess that its important to keep using the same quality of fuel as you do all this experimenting.

try the above

GENUINE BRAND NEW FORD SIERRA PINTO SOHC CARBURETTOR FUEL VAPOUR TRAP | eBay try this...

I'd love to see your end result

Thanks bud, I feel your pain! I was trying to do this on the cheap so I decided to stick with the rear drums… I should have spend £450 and do the rear disc conversion… live and learn…

Hope you get it sorted I having a issue with escort rear drums at minute with them binding on passenger side after replacing everything on them. I also had to hunt down new handbrake bracket for mine. I could not buy one new had to get some 2nd hand ones.

Yesterday I had some time and implemented the above mentioned idea to measure the timing at the camshaft instead of at the crankshaft as usual. As already mentioned above, the crankshaft and camshaft turn 2:1. So you have to attach two scales at the camshaft, 180 degrees apart and the scale is only half as large / precise since two degrees turn at the crankshaft mean only one degree turn at the camshaft. So I created myself a scale with powerpoint. There you can draw a line and then have it turned by a defined number of degrees. I then set the crankshaft to TDC twice and attached the two scales at the respective camshaft positions. A test showed that it works great. See pictures

Hi all I hope to be with you all on Tuesday, Just getting used to being part of a crowd. Its good to see so many members turn up. Take care Allan

I just found this… https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/braking/brake-shoes/quinton-hazell-brake-shoes-bs615k1-detail It looks like it will work…

Well, that’s where my confusion is… I got some drum brakes and they have no attachments… other kits have only the handbrake and others only the auto adjuster … haven’t found one that has everything… might have to buy 3 different shoe kits to make 1 working! On the bright side, I will have 2 spare pair of shoes so I will be sorted for the next 300,000 miles!

Don't most of those parts come attached to the brake shoes?

I have a Robin Hood S7 ( 2 lt Pinto from a Sierra) which starts then cuts out, will always fire on easy start. I think it's the fuel vapour separator ,any suggestions where I can source one.

Thanks for the explanation. I attached the VA to see how the engine reacts after verifying my static timing to be at 10 degrees. And yes, the engine does run better, although it does not decrease my rich mixture issue. The vacuum advance causes the timing to forward to something around 20 degrees at idle. Is that an acceptable value? Above 12 degrees OT I can only guess the values as my crankshaft belt wheel only has 3 notches of 4 degrees each. And there is pactically no space between the front of the engine and the radiator fan which makes it impossible to add notches or get in there with a marker. In the web I found a picture with a scale at the camshaft wheel. At least, that is a lot easier to access. But since the camshaft turns at only half the speed of the crankshaft, it takes 2 scales (180 degrees apart) and a 2 degrees change on the crankshaft means only one degree on the camshaft wheel. I plan to try that option and see if it works.

I am selling the winter kit that came with the recently acquired Cat E1. The doors are in very good condition and have no rips in the fabric or the screens. The full hood, needs some attention, it needs to be cleaned as it has white stains and it has a small fabric rip on the driver side close to where the door meets the roof. Screens are in good condition without any rips, they just need some cleaning. Brand new this winter kit costs around £600 directly from ERA (tiger racing). I am selling this for £350 I can post it for free within mainland UK. You can pickup from Redhill, Surrey. PayPal payment is preferred or cash on collection. Any questions please let me know. Thanasis

Hello I am having a real nightmare with my Tiger Cat E1, specifically with the rear drum brakes. Left side is complete, however the right side is missing everything! The only thing in the drum is the cylinder! I am not sure what the previous owner have done to it… is there any way you can guide me or share a parts list of what is required? springs screws and other nuts and bobs are available online, however, I can’t seem to find replacement parts for the handbrake cable lever as well as the automatic adjustment mechanism. I have attached some photos of the complete left side kit, and two photos of the missing parts ( handbrake bar, auto tension adjustment mechanism), hopefully someone has come across something like this before. thank you in advance, Thanasis

Next Wednesday 31st, 6pm onwards, Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Nr Stonebridge, Coventry, CV7 7HL. Generally they're trying to kick us out just after 930pm so if you're coming, don't leave it too late. Also, if you want to eat, book beforehand as they don't normally let people just rock up and eat. Entrance to the pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island. Everyone welcome. See you there.

As you have 2 issues based around gauges, then it could be the dash, so before dropping the tank, I would locate the temp sender in the engine bay & short out the wire to ground. With your ignition on your temp gauge should read HOT!! If you can locate the fuel sender wire grounding that out should make the gauge show FULL! If neither of these happen, fault the dash first.

https://nw.rhocar.org/buildtips/tiebars.htm Are these what you have Dave Andrews had more details but his site http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/

So the compression struts are something either made up by the builder , or perhpas off the shelf Sierra Compression struts. Interesting, just assumed maybee RH had it as a upgrade/option . Rob

The Exmo front suspension was always Sierra track control arms, sierra ARB and sierra steering rack with sierra uprights. It used custom struts of unknown origin with Robin Hood adjustable spring seats. At the back there was the option of standard sierra rear springs and shock OR an adjustable RM adapted mini rear shock modified to coil over.

The few pictures I have seen of the EXMO use the standard sierra ARB up front, yet mine has compression struts. Was there a revision or has this been done off piste by the original builder. It has the long rear shox which I may or may not think about doing something with. Cheers Rob

Yeah, I would put in an inspection hatch.... The car is fairly well built by the Original owner who IIRC had done a couple of prior builds. Rob

Further to the fuel sender. The top of the tank can be reached by removing the boot lining. How to line the boot was left to the imagination of the builder so every one will be different.