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Hi Alan I hope to be there, its been a while, hope you are feeling better after your illness. Kind regards Harry

Thanks. I'll dig out the spring clamps and I'll stick loads of WD40 on the and see if I can turn the lock nuts, should I be putting the adjuster and lock nuts back in the other way round? . I've attached some more pics if it helps identify it properly.

Looks like a RH shock. It is assembled withe the main adjuster nut the wrong side of the lock nut. Lock nut should be toward the load, main nut away from load. You should be able to wind the adjuster nuts far enough down to release all compression in the spring provided that it is not all rusted solid.

In 50 years of driving I've never found it ever necessary, TBH I think they are a contraption from hell, they should be banned or only ever issued to somebody after an extensive training course.

Without an image showing the top & the bottom, I think it's a good answer

It looks like a coil-over, so I would normally say that you don't need to compress the spring ............. but it doesn't look like a "normal" coil-over so it might be a RH "special" in which case it might be prudent to play safe ! Sorry for not being very specific but, hopefully, somebody else will recognise it and be able to give a definite answer. Steve

Might be a bit of a silly question but do I need to compress these strings to take the shock assembly off the car? And whist I am at it should I upgrade anything? Thanks

Time to restart our monthly meetings after the Christmas layoff, hoping you are all well and looking forward to meeting up again.

One of the very rare occasions I used the rear fog light. But good to meet up and the ride home was great in the sunshine. Just got to clean all the mud etc off

Lovely day out and meet up. The run this morning was a bit rough as it was very cold and misty (and I got trapped behind a lorry carrying hay for 5 miles, shedding his load at every bump in the road so my car is full of pieces of hay) but after lunch the sun came out and it was a lovely ride back (45 mins each way for me). It was especially good for me as my car has been off the road for a month and I fixed her only yesterday. (Couldn't start her, eventually traced to a failed ignition coil) Now I have to spend another 45 mins cleaning off the mud

Hi Steve Thanks for your reply I checked their catalogue as well, I mailed them direct last night but as yet have had no reply. I will post any replies from them on this post kind regards Harry

Hi Harry, I can't fully make out what's on the end there but it doesn't seem to match anything in their current catalogue - have you tried contacting them directly? They're normally quite helpful. http://www.newman-cams.com/ Good luck, Steve

The sender units changed a bit over the years and a bit by trim level spec of the car up to the major change with EFI units. Mostly this was things like having more than the basic spec to having fuel low light, MPG display etc. The basic fuel guage function remained the same and the other bits can probably be ignored.

Could I please have some advice on the correct one to choose, on having the new fuel lines added and flushing the tank the chap I was completing with found it had a leak at the sender unit, I have found varying priced items from £80 to £400 for what looks like the same part, could anyone point me in the right direction as this is last part for the car to go in for MOT

Completed a new wiring set up for most auxiliary parts Fuel tank was full of sludge, so removed and flushed through, new fuel pipes fitted as the originals have started to perish, bearings changed and boots are new……and i think it’s now ready for the MOT, other than a fuel sender replacement

Due to the larger seats I’ve moved the handbrake further forward and added an extension plate in

Sealed it all and now seats and harnesses going in back tomorrow ready to go for mot shortly after finding a new fuel sender

Purchased a complete floor from gbs but had to cut it up to fit and so that I didn’t have to take the sides off, we cut it and slid under sides and re fixed it all up nice, I also added the strengthening plate whilst there so that it’s nice a sturdy and hopefully will really improve the chassis

So I had to go down the route of taking the whole floor out

So a complete mare with the seat mounting in the car, a complete “opening a can of worms” situation, albeit needed…. So the seats I wanted to have both on runners, which needed some new holes. However upon cleaning back what started as sheet metal with a few holes in the floor, turned quickly into holes with a few bits of metal in it.

Hi Can anyone help me with the ID of this camshaft, it has NEWMAN CAMSHAFTS cast into the body of camshaft. Regards Harry

Hi Can anyone help me with the ID of this camshaft, it has NEWMAN CAMSHAFTS cast into the body of camshaft. Regards Harry

Your description of your Vauxhall Minibus's alternator connections sounds accurate. The frame ground is the first attachment, fastened to the engine with bolts. The alternator's output to the battery is located at the second, big terminal with a ring. To excite the alternator and control the charging current, the third component is the thin brown wire that delivers battery power to the field coils. Usually, a relay or voltage regulator receives this. Potential uses for the fourth connector include a warning light or voltage detection. Consult your car's handbook or a professional for further information.

FREE to a good home !! Mirror extensions used for IVA when presenting a car without windscreen. Lifts the mirrors high enough for the rear mirror checks. Just pm you address. First to reply will receive. ( will post before the end of week ).

Hi, I just came across this posting while looking for alternator connection details for my Vauxhall Minibus. My alternator has four connections - One being through the frame, which is bolted to the engine. The second connection is the big one with a ring terminal - this is the alternator OUTPUT to the battery. The third connection would be equivalent to your thin brown wire - it should feed the battery voltage directly to the field coils of the alternator to excite the unit and regulate the charging current. This is usually fed from a relay, or a contact on the ignition switch, to prevent battery drain when everything is switched off. The final connection should go to a lamp on the dashboard, to show that the alternator is active. This always confuses people, as the lamp acts as a warning that there is NO OUTPUT from the alternator, so it only lights when the ignition is 'ON', but the engine is NOT turning. These last two connections go through an unmarked connector on the back of my alternator, so I can't identify the correct one to cut. My problem is that I bought a 'Calcium' battery from Halfords, who recommend it for my vehicle, but they don't warn you that they need a higher charging voltage than the old Lead-Acid type. I want to add a series diode to alter the sensing voltage, so my battery gets a full charge, and it need to go in-line with the sensing wire. Hope you got your car sorted - all the best, Graham.