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No, definitely not. The Tyco relays I know were made in the EU

Yup, that's the sort of thing (although not sure exactly which ones I need) - so are those on that TE site any different to the multitude on eBay? Or are they all made in the same Chinese factory with a different label stuck on them?

What type of relay(s) are you after? If it's the "inch square" type (aka "mini relay" and "power relay F4") 4 pin, normally-open, drop me a pm. Like these: https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=V23134-X0000-A001&DocType=DS&DocLang=English

Tight wad here is still using relays which came from the Sierra donor of '89/90 vintage. The only new one is flasher relay as have mostly LED indicators.

Use the Ford relay on Florin without frequency of sweep control & it works fine -- ( all other wiper kit is Mini ) would suggest the relay is not bridging the park section on the wiper motor.

Already got my ticket

Thanks all. Looking at pictures of replacement switches it's clear the middle has dropped out of mine so I've ordered a new one. Hopefully problem solved then.

So wired in the wiper motor yesterday. Am using ford paddles, original ford relay, mini r&P motor, CBS fuse box. Everything works fine except for the Intermittent, which shift slightly and just stop. When turned off they return to park. Fast and slow work beautifully. Have opened the relay and seems in good nick, and clicks over when bench tested, but that is teh extent of my testing HAs anyone had anything similar? I'm throwing this out to all before I buy a new relay - have been somewhat spend-thrifty of late.....

if it's on the ford gear box I think its a straight switch wth a rubber friction fit - should just pushon

It should just push back on. Polarity dose not matter so it can go either way. Make sure terminals and the pins in the plug are clean. As a test put a jumper wire in across the terminals in the plug "make sure ignition is on!" and reversing lights should come on if not no point fitting it until you find the problem. Tony

Is there any known brand of relay considered to be better quality than others? I'm normally Mr Miser on everything but relays seem pretty cheap anyway and I'd rather pay a few quid more for something that may be better.

Hi. I noticed that the reverse light plug has come unplugged and was hanging down under the car. I can only just get at the socket from beside the gear lever. Does this plug just push in? I did the best at full finger stretch but lights aren't working. Does the plug have to go in a certain way? Thanks in advance.

I've just now wired in my mini wiper motor to the CBS module with a ford relay and paddles. Largely successful, except the intermittent only moves a smidge - I need to find if this is a motor contact fault. I was so glad I kept the old FB, as that had the correct relay - the CBS only has a fuse and relies on a straight switch for the wipers looking at ford colour wires, the Bk/V going from the switch to the motor should be spliced in as the feed from channel 20 on teh CBS.

I have just booked for camping.....

I wouldn't be surprised if I got my years mixed up - I don't know what day it is half the time ! I was expecting to see some mention of it in their calendar though. I hope it's on, and if so I'll hopefully make it, probably on the Saturday.

As Kerry said, I can't see anything on the Santa Pod website saying this is cancelled. Other events on the same day is normal, Kitfest isn't a stand alone event. Trevor Harmer who is involved with organising the event posted an update regarding ticket sales yesterday on our Facebook page here https://www.facebook.com/groups/514980222217443/permalink/1330575303991260/ Until we hear anything definitive to the contrary, it looks to be on.

Just checked, kitfest is on, I think you had looked at 2020.

Thanks Steve

Hi Tony, I fancied a run out to this but I've just had a look on the Santa Pod website and it shows the Kitfest as suspended with different shows now on the 19th and 20th June. Probably best to check again in a week or two as things seem to change daily at the moment. Steve

Watching and listening again to the vid, the clicking is obviously the starter relay cutting in and out and sometimes holding, at which point the motor turns but slowly. Two things happen when the solenoid is energised, the solenoid pulls an arm that pivots to push the starter dog and engage it with the flywheel cogs, at the same time it closes an electrical switch that connects the battery to the motor. The switch has to make a good enough contact to pass the high current needed by the motor. So a possible cause of the problem is low voltage/current in the circuit that powers the solenoid, so

For the moment I have used solid pipe. But will look into getting a flexi hose for it.

How did you connect the trailing arm hard line to the caliper flexi hose? I'm currently making some brackets to fit to the bearing housing, but wondered if you found a better way. I would have welded something onto the arm, had I realised I needed one before I painted it!

I’ll try thick plastic and duct tape…… only thing I can do to get it home, thanks for the advice Bob

Thanks use both for the advice

Sorry to dig this old thread up, but I'm in a bit of a mess. I disconnected my arb assuming I could run it without any Arb or tie bar at all... clear movement with the lower arm, so I need to refit or go ahead (quickly) with a tie bar. I only MOTd the car in Thursday after buying and rebuilding, so I'm regretting removing the ARB and destroying the bush at the same time. Anyway, what's the quickest and easiest way to get setup with a tie bar? Is anyone selling a kit that I can bolt together? I have no machining tools or skill to make much myself.. Advice needed! Thank