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Miked5, I’m running a Haltech Ecu and had to run the LP pump via a wire to HP pump even though using GBS loom. Just use the wire in the loom and run it to the hp pump. Works fine.

If you have a LP pump, you must have a swirl pot, no? Or is that built into the tank on a Mazda? (I have a Ford). I can't hear my LP pump either, except when low on fuel and it starts struggling. The Emerald ECU only runs the pumps for a few seconds if you just put the ignition on and then switches them off if it does not detect any attempt to start the engine. Maybe your ECU does the same, so by the time you go to measure the voltage, the pump is already off, hence 0v? If the engine is starting and running, the LP pump must be working otherwise how is petrol getting to the swirl pot? Can

The new starter motor arrived and it has done the trick. Crank sand starts perfectly. In saying this my original starter motor was probably ok as it turned out to be timing issue..... would like to thank everyone for the advice.

Should the low pressure pump run continuously when ign on and engine is running? Could I splice into the wires that go to the high pressure pump? So both will run together

Yes factory Mazda loom so there is a spiders nest behind the dash Is emerald an aftermarket ecu? I still have the Mazda one. It is a blue with red stripe wire currently going the the pump and ground which goes to the chassis but when reading with a multimeter I get 0 volts No it was already built when I purchased it, he said he paid someone to do the wiring side of things.

Hi, I assume you didnt build the car originally? Do you know if the builder used a GBS supplied loom? Its possible to buy other off the shelf looms, or of course they could have scratch built it.

Are you running the factory wiring loom ? the low pressure pump is run by the emerald ecu on the factory loom BUT the wire for it comes from the ENGINE loom plug and just needs to be put to earth it will then come on with the key I have the wiring dia somewhere and will let you know the colour

Had my Mazda zero a few days now and realised it never fires first time round, normally 2nd or 3rd time. I can here the high pressure pump whining when I put ignition on but nothing from low pressure pump. Ive had a multimeter on it and I'm ready 0 volts to the pump, the question is does anybody know where the power to the pump is fed from before I have to rip everything apart to trace the wires? For example which fuse or pins etc. Is there a wiring diagram I can get from GBS which will help me? Mike

This is the type I am referring to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/42mm-HIGH-FLOW-ALLOY-SPORT-RACE-RADIATOR-RAD-FOR-HONDA-CIVIC-EG-EK-EH-EJ-92-00/392056051672?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda|Model%3ACivic&hash=item5b485c97d8:g:qFwAAOSwsnBfQ6r~

If you think the s/steel panels could do with being replaced or refitted walk away --- you will end up with a chassis FULL of holes & some will run into old ones so wont take a fixing --- every thing else should be fixable but at what cost --- you need to be happy with the build --- end to end & top to bottom if your engineer skills are not well developed. ( can be just good use of the hammer provided the blow hits true.)

I think Nelmo's advice is very sensible. Given the price Zero's have been going for recently (as evidenced on this forum), I'm not sure I'd personally pay £5k for any Robin Hood, but that's a general statement. Problem is you can get well built examples, and complete snotters, in *any* brand, so I'd focus on a quality build for your first kit car. My first kit back in the 90's was a GTM Rossa built by an engineer much respected by his peers, and I *still* ended up rebuilding it and still saw some 'surprising' quality of work on it so as with purchasing any car, buyer beware.

hi just got mine on the road after buying in bits, tears of joy and pain along the way but worth it,mine is a mk2 so if you are a big lad you will find it a very tight fit 2b are wider so try to have a look at different models my wife likes mine apart from messing her hair up see you are in Boston i live in kings lynn you are welcome to come over and have a look, please ask any questions you have on here as the club members are very helpful ,my membership was the best money i have spent

Hi Nick, welcome to the club! Before you buy anything, please consider your experience and what you want from the car. Kit cars are great fun, they can be fast and they are very back-to-basics. However, they are mostly built by amateurs and while some of us are aircraft engineers and will do a very good job, kit cars are generally unreliable and will need you to get your hands dirty at some point (unless you can afford to take it to a garage every time it breaks). They are also noisy and uncomfortable - your wife/partner will almost certainly NOT want to go in it very often unless th

Wowsers!!! Yup, that is a bargain for something so new - well done! Enjoy...

Hi Nick, welcome to the club. I bought my 2B over 10 years ago and it still makes me smile every time I drive it. It's not the best kit car in the world, in fact it's not the best 2B in the UK but it's still great fun. I think there are a few members in your area and, if you can, get a look at a few of their cars. You'll see that Robin Hoods are all slightly different - you make it the way that you want it. Keep watching the website - I'm sure there'll be other members replying to you. Steve

£6600 - new to kit cars but most that I saw for sale were 8k+ for finished articles. Looking forward to attending some local meets once covid calms down

hi could you give me the size please as very tight fit in mine

Hi, I have just joined as I’m looking to buy my1st kit car, would a Robin Hood be a good 1st choice, looking for advice, seen a few in good condition for around £5k, not many about in my neck of the woods, any hints on finding a reasonable one would be much appreciated, thanks in advance,

Hi Mark. Welcome to the club I might have one up on the location your car looks very nice and look forward to get the chance to see it soon. Regards Allan

Hi Mike i will be nearest to you i would think, i am in penrith area. Not a good time to be meeting up at the moment with all this going on, but keep in touch we will meet up and have a run out . All the best happy tinkering. Andrew.

You could put a Zero on the road for £15k, no problem at all. Obviously it massively depends on how much you're willing to concede with 2nd hand/recon, if you want everything brand new then it will be more of a squeeze, but it massively depends on spec of components and so forth. I could spout numbers from my Zero build from 2 years ago but it's of dubious value, since I'm so far off what is considered 'standard'. Rover K-Series, lots of tuning, non-standard suspension/gauges/wiring/seats, caterham gearbox, etc. it wouldn't really help you

Thanks for the reply David...

I built mine in 2012 and I think I was around £15K all in but I did get GBS to do some work for me. I think it should be do-able for that kind of money for the Gen 2 version with some sensible purchases. They have made a lot of changes since I built mine and I am tempted to build another. Problem would be having to sell my current car and I am not sure I could part with it!

Welcome to the club - good looking car - what sort of price, may I ask?

I've had good success with the ebay honda civic alloy rads. They do them 32mm inlets and outlets too.