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RedTrev last won the day on August 3

RedTrev had the most liked content!

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About RedTrev

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    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 10/11/1962

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    2B Plus
  • Full name
    Trevor Davies

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  1. It's worth considering the point that Ian is making here. I experienced this with a 1380 tuned Mini (many) years ago. Try retarding the ignition timing or, alternatively, crank with the ignition electrically disconnected. If the engine turns freely with no ignition, you'll know it's ignition timing causing the issue.
  2. Hi, you can check here: https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-manufacture-dates.html Assuming you have a Ford engine, it was built Sept 1988.
  3. Battery charging condition tell tale is optional according to IVA manual section 33. Even the symbol and colour suggested in table A are for guidance only, but alternatives should not cause confusion to the driver.
  4. I'm following this thread with interest... ...a question: is there a good reason why none of the inlet manifolds I've seen include a flange (or maybe 4 separate flanges) to bolt the original carb-to-head rubbers to (and negate the need for the slippery silicon hoses)? Is it purely cost, or some technical reason?
  5. Are you staying there until Thursday Rich?
  6. What a fabulously concise write-up on bike carbs, Kevin; was a riveting read. Got me thinking about getting some for my Pinto.
  7. Might pop over, all being well
  8. Glad you got it fixed Rich. Solidified grease was a problem for old wind up gramophones too, I've got an HMV model 145 (1929-1933) which needs a bit of tlc to the motor due to solid grease. The NSM City II jukebox I've got (seen in boozers across the county in the 80s) has been reliable over the 20 years I've had it, just needing the speaker cone surrounds replacing on the 2 x 10" woofers about 4 years ago, as the original ones dried and disintegrated. The system plays the records vertically, with the mechanism moving along a rack to the records, rather than the records moving to the m
  9. Rock-Ola of the late 50s certainly took the style of American cars of the era, ... did they package-protect for a V8?
  10. Your circuit looks ok for a points ignition system. If you're using the motorcraft module then it needs to be connected. Here's my circuit when I ran with the module, before changing to Megajolt: 6 wires to the module: B = Black to +12v ignition N = Brown to ground BR = Black/Red to Inductive trigger GY = Green/Yellow to Inductive trigger BG = Black/Green to cranking signal G = Green to coil neg My rev counter is not a Smith's RVI, so is wired differently to yours, but the module wire functions are the same. Your brake lig
  11. Thanks for the help with the wiring of the tacho.  I have commented on the forum and sent the wiring diagram, but, I still have a couple of issues.

    I think you probably think the link id dead as you have been so helpfull.

    The tach needle is moving, but violently up and down.

    I have not connected a wire to the module as there are eight and I am not sure which is which.  Would that cause the needle to bounce?  Also, weirly the brake lihhts come od when the tacho is wired like this.  Any thoughts please.

    1. RedTrev


      Hi Nick and Neil,

      Sorry, I have not had chance to look at the threads on the forum with any time to reply. I'm a little confused though.... are you still running with ignition points or is the Motorcraft module actually wired in and working ok with your engine?

      If you have not connected the wire from the coil negative terminal to the module, where is it connected to?

      We'll get there 👍




    2. RedTrev


      If you have the module all wired in and working, then adding the rev counter should be quite easy. It would be better if I could talk to you. Is there a number I could call you on? If you're ok with this, when is a good time? It would be good if I could see the car, but I don't think I could do a day trip to Plymouth from Coventry 🤣

    3. NickandNeil


      Sorry Red Trev, I have had grandkids turned up unexpectedly. My mobile number is 07711224848. You can ring anytime.  Thank you.

  12. Be sure the existing wire feeding +12v to the + teminal on the coil is removed (else no current will flow through the tacho and it will show no reading). The only wire connecting to the + coil terminal should be the one from the tacho (the green wire in my picture in the post above). And don't forget to ground the case of the tacho (the black wire in the picture). Then, if your engine runs but the tacho still doesn't show a reading, swap the two wires on the bullet connectors, so the circuit is then like this:
  13. (Ignore the wire colours btw)
  14. If the +12v ignition feed that goes to your coil is fed through the tacho as per the circuit diagram (on page 14), then it should still work. The electronic ignition module, that you have shown, replaces the points, but you still have a coil with LT wiring.
  15. That's right, your tacho will sense the voltage change at the coil neg, as the points open and close.This earlier tacho (it looks like "RVI" hiding underneath the tacho needle in the photo) uses the current in the ignition LT circuit to drive it.
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