Tickover

It's only about an hour away for me so if I can get mine motor running without over heating before I'd love to join you lot

I am aiming to make sure the air passes through the rad and not around it. Why paint the bay black?

Sorry should have said in the original.. I've replaced the water pump and there was no thermostat in it so put one in with a 2mm drilled hole..

Hi all My S3a lights to get hot quickly and over heats. It has an electric fan that is operated by a switch on the dash. I'm thinking about replacing the rad as the car had been sat for a number of years before I got it sorted. The core has cool spots when the car is up to temp. So one question is what one should I get to there isn't a lot of space.. It has no header, expansion tank or overflow bottle. I'm looking at putting an overflow bottle in but reading a few threads on here I'm wondering if some of my issues could be air locks as the rad cap is lower than some or the water system.. it has a heater which I'm looking at taking out at some point and the Weber carb that uses the water to operate the choke. Do I need to look at putting in a header tank up high? Any suggestions on this setup?

Hi lindzie Did you find a replacement radiator? If so where from ? Graham

I'm looking to replace my rad as well on my S3a. I want to move it forward, if I can 8nto the nose cone to add more liquid into the system and add a header tank... has anyone else done this?

that could explain that. With the timing being out a bit would the contribute to overheating? I'm guessing the crap in the rad wouldn't help. I'd better get a cam belt kit ordered up @IanS thanks

Evening all! Question for the pinto engine gurus... been a long time since I done work like this on a motor. So In the process of replacing the water pump and flushing out the system overheated on a small run and turns out No thermostat in the engine.. took rad out and flushed that out with the hose and this came out... any ideas? So then thought I'll do a belt change and when I put the crank pulley to TDC the cam pulley wouldn't line up with the mark on the head so has my belt slipped and knocked my timing out? Any advice on how to fix these issues? I'd it just a case of new belt and move the cam pulley into correct position? Starts and runs okay only been on one run and overheated and it wasn't a poky as expected..

How did you get on with this issue? Have you sorted it out yet?

Well after all the worries.. Good news! my hood past it's MOT today with advisory for... just tyres! After standing for so long I didn't expect that.. The down side is it overheated extremely quickly, so need to address that asap before I can enjoy it (have ordered a water pump) also didn't seem as quick as I was expecting it to be

Brill, Thanks @Peter Bell that's what i though and hoping it was. but with it being gone 830pm i was reluctant to give it a good Walloping, i have the haynes manual but it just said take drum off so i was getting frustrated and posted Any one give any light on whether the cable adjuster id broken or not

Hi guys.. booked in for an MOT moved car, pulled handbrake on and something slipped so I'm guessing cable gone attached pic of what looks like broken adjuster?, or something in the drum gone?. Any info on the hand brake cable be welcome So I've gone to take the drum off and it's not that easy.. I've wacked it with the copper mallet (but it's a bit late to really Welly it) and nothing. Does this nut need to come off to take the drum off? When I apply a little leverage it looks like the center nut and spacer are holding it on? Thanks.. just want to get it MOTd and drive it

It's not that they refused to do it more they didn't want to do it. I asked if happy to do it being a kit car and that was thier response

Ive never liked the idea of a Q plate until you say emissions are visual LOL , how come you got a Q plate? I'm new to all this kit car stuff and loving it but its a big learning curve.

if they take a blind eye to to something that's only a bonus to you, as long as its not dangerous