Engine

Periodically there are questions regarding oil levels and shortened sumps. There is no difference in the levels as the low/high mark on the dipstick is relevant to the block/ sump face not the sump capacity. What can throw the measurements off is the dipstick and tube combinations, there are several sizes, on the Pintos, 2 more common than others. It's the dipstick tube combination that should not be swapped around. I am swapping engines and have 2 dipstick/tube variants and have taken measurements and photos for our communal knowledge. Pinto dipstick Critical measurement is from bottom of dipstick tube to minimum mark Short tube 24.8cm Min mark to tube 14.7 M…

Found this on another site thought it might be useful to someone it seems very comprehensive and plenty of piccy's D http://www.mk3supra....236-dgav-carb/

after some confusion by test stations as to what kit cars should be tested to, I've been out and got "Chapter & verse" See here!

Engine is a 2.0Efi, but the water holes in the gasket (size and number off) do not match up with the cylinder block or head. Local motor factor is adamant this is right gasket for this pinto but am not entirely convinced and would like to "Ask the audience"

Hi All, I have just bought a GBS Zero GT with a 2.0 blacktop and slowly getting through what it needs (I will start a project thread at some point). Main issue I am having is the serpentine belt is catching on the block. The set up is from GBS so I assume it should work without any issues but its as tight as it will go and its still catching on the block, squealing and leaving a bit of residue behind. Has something been set up wrong? There doesn't seem to be any adjustability in the bracket for the tensioner, or alternator. Is it a case of removing some material off the block its catching on? Any help would be great. https://postimg.cc/gallery/…

Hi I have a 91-93 DOHC Sierra engine, bolted to a Type 9 gearbox with a Pinto flywheel. The starter motor fitted is a Lucas 54244866 with the solenoid at the top. It’s right on the manifold and it’s knackered the starter. I need one with the solenoid at the bottom and was just wondering if anyone could recommend the correct one to fit. thanks

Hi All, Tonight i was working on my 2B, doing some of those many final jobs before i put her back on the road. It’s been laid up for 7 years. I started her up a couple of weeks ago just to make sure all was okay and she ticked over nicely. I thought I’d get her out of the garage tonight and turn her around to give better access to the side i have work to do on. The engine cranked for about 15 seconds, sounding normal but not firing and then suddenly the engine cranking speed sped up. I probably cranked it for another 15 seconds before i thought it really didn’t sound right. I lifted the bonnet and saw that the timing belt had snapped and only the bottom of…

Hi all, My kit car is powered by a gen1 Hayabusa and not cranking. The normal starting procedure (as it is based on a motorbike) is turn ignition on with the key and the dash lights up. Turn on the engine kill switch and the fuel pump primes, check it is in neutral the.ln press the starter button and the starter motor turns the engine and fires up. Now, everything is as it should be except the last part - when I press the starter button nothing happens. If I connect the output of the starter relay straight to the battery, the starter runs and the engine fires up so I know the starter motor is working and the battery is good. If I put a multimete…

Hi all, Over the winter I spent some time working on my Robin Hood 2B, mainly focusing on the cooling system. Originally, I replaced the old Ford Sierra radiator with a cheap aftermarket one I found online. After rerouting all the hoses and getting everything fitted, we quickly discovered it had a major leak… not worth repairing considering the cost and quality. So, back to square one. In the end, we sourced a radiator from a Subaru Justy II (1995). We grabbed the radiator along with some hoses and reworked the whole setup again. I’ll admit the welding work wasn’t exactly professional, but after chasing down a few small leaks here and there, everything…

I bought a gazelle kit car and it has the 2.0 pinto I’ve tried everything with it and it only wants to fire after I let off the starter i changed the timing belt and couldn’t find exactly what my tdc was so I took a compression reading while I knew it was close and moved it one notch clockwise to achieve maximum compression of 120 psi on all cylinders i ended up having a spark issue and had to spend $300 on a new distributor and coil from pertonix and got the cam gear lined up with its dot on head and installed it it was running before the new distributor but suddenly stopped and lost spark and now will no longer start at all even with starting fluid …

Wired up my ECU, Dash and engine harness yesterday, all ready for a first start. However, unable to get the engine to fire despite fuel pumps and everything appearing to work. The ECU turns on at Switch position one and shows 7.4v, which increases to 12.4v once the ECU relay kicks in at switch position 2. All the fuel pumps whirr into life. However, when I crank the engine the ECU indicator light goes from red to off and the ECU appears to reset/disconnect. The unit is connected to a factory loom and earths directly through this to the chassis. I'm suspecting the power feeds in to the engine harness are not good enough and it browns out when attempting…

Hi all, I need to replace the brushes on my 2b starter motor but I can't find the part number anywhere on it. Can anyone of you guru's help me out please. Engine is a pinto 2.0 (1986) I'm happy soldering new ones into the holder (which it looks like I'll need to do) but want to make sure I order the right ones. I think it's a Bosch starter but not 100%. Cheers

Hi , first of all thx for let me join this gorup, I'm from Spain and a happy recent owner of a tiger cat but wit a strange noise. I'll describe the situation: ford pinto engine with kent cams rl31 valve clearence 0,25inlet 0,30 exhaust and vernier pulley turbosport with -3º. the video is with engine at 80º water 60ºoil. Please can anybody help me pointing in a good direction.

I've been chasing this problem all summer since the car was complete and now it's really starting to pi55 me off because I'm at a loss now!! What seems to be happening is every now and then the engine just cuts out for less than a second and then fires up again. It can be whilst driving (which is really annoying as it's like hitting the brakes for a second but it's unpredictable) or whilst stationary. On 2 occasions now it's not fired back up again and I've pulled up on the side of the road only to find nothing obvious and the car starts up again on the key. I've eliminated all mechanical possibilities I can think of such as fuel supply etc...and I'm sure this is…

Evening all, Day 2 owner here…. I have a Robin Hood 2b with 1.6l ford pinto engine. Thanks to the previous posts I have found where the engine number is stamped and to me it looks like it is a 1988 engine (stamp JA78006) but when looking on button power they don’t have a cambelt for that age so now wondering if I have got it wrong? Can anyone please confirm that I have read the code right and it is that year before I start searching for the wrong parts. Picture below. Thanks in advance Zack

Where should I attach the vacuum line for the fuel Regulator? Advice seems to be I should retain this, but unsure if I should port to the plenum or the air filter side of the throttle body.

Hi all, Just finished a rolling road session yesterday at Northampton motorsport, very happy with their work, however, the torque curve wasn't great at lower revs and didn't pick up until roughly 4k rpm. The guy running the session suggested that the exhaust manifold was small in bore size and also primary pipes too short, which was the most likely cause of lack of low rev torque. Can anyone suggest a good pinto manifold option that will fit into an exmo? Modifying the chassis side panel isn't a problem if need be, but space is limited around the engine mount and steering column. Thanks, Lew

My new exhaust arrived safely today. Sadly it doesn't fit my series 3 but it is sold for a 2B. It touches the top chassis rail and is about 2 inches short of bolting up to the head. Local exhaust shop should be able to do minor mods to fit it. I'm amazed that it should fit a 2B which I would have thought was wider than a series 3. Nigel

Hi fellow enthusiasts. I have recently purchased and embarked on a rebuild of an S7. The engine sump has been damaged around the sump plug - minor leak (very low ride height) and I need to replace it. Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the sump with the engine in-situ?. Any advice greatly appreciated. Many thanks Glenn

Hi, Just after a few thoughts on running a rebuilt pinto in, I have a fully rebuilt 205 block pinto, with crank regrind, new bottom ends n main bearings, new oil pump,rebored & honed with new pistons n rings, block decked, ported & polished head with new valves,springs, followers & a Kent FR32 cam fitted with new bearings plus all new gaskets,seals,core plugs,water pump etc etc and I am running it on valvoline VR1 oil. What sort of mileage should I be running before changing oil & filter? and pushing a bit harder say 5k rpm (I keep engine to below 3500 rpm at min) cheers

So, the Supercat decided to put me through the wringer recently, and I thought I’d share the saga for anyone who fancies a laugh at my expense (or needs reminding that kit car ownership is equal parts joy and punishment). It started small. Just a stumble at 4k. Nothing major, just enough to make me frown and mutter “probably carb needles.” Left it for a bit, but it got worse. Even had one “specialist” tell me to ditch the bike carbs and Megajolt and go back to Webers and a mechanical dizzy — because obviously when modern ignition throws a wobbly, the answer is 1970s technology. Right… Then came the backfires. And not polite little pops, oh no. Proper artillery f…

Does anyone know what pitch these are. The bolts that attach the starter to the engine. I know they're M10 and I think 30mm Ta Andi

Hi, I bought a GARBI 7 30 months ago, the car in a Robin Hood Mk2 monocoque with in board front suspension with a 2 l Pinto engine fitted with 2 Weber 40IDF 70. The chassis was bought by a spanish company near Barcelona in 2005 which was assembling the car and registered it in Spain. The problem is the company failed few years after so all the registration datas were lost. I spent the first year to take away all the donor wiring as it was full of bad connections. I took away all the fiitings in the boot of the car , spaekers, pieces of wood etc abd installed an electric pump insteadof the mechanic one. I Tried to pass the ITV (equivalent to IVA) and failes …

Hi all, I've purchased a food 'kit' van and will be refurbishing it over the next year or so. First stop is the engine . . . . it's a 2 litre pinto. I'm new to this but hope to put the engine together and get the help of a mechanic towards the end as it seems theres loads out there on pinto's . .. First question. The seller fitted a reconditioned engine with new weber carbs and inlet manifold. I have 3 hose unions on the inlet manifold. Can anyone advise me why they are there? where they should be going? can't make any sense of them. Struggling to upload an image due to the zie, but here is a link to which inlet is fitted. https://www.ebay.…

my 2L pinto is on 32/36 std carb which i don't think is doing the engine justice performance wise what would you think my best option is fitting bike carbs, if so which ones, or is there a better carb i can fit on my std inlet manifold, twin 45s are out of my price range unless i can find some cheap , not going to do track days would just like better acceleration