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About deano266

  • Birthday 06/26/1989

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  1. @alanricheythe car has come back and I can confirm the 'superspec rattle' is no more. The mechanic said it was the spigot bearing as when he placed it in when determing the fit he could see it moving (as there was no bearing) along with all the scoring on the shaft and the bushing. Once placed in with a bearing there was very little to no movement and span cleanly in the bearing. I would definitely recommend doing it but due to the way the engine and gearbox come out I would only do it when gearbox is coming off anyway
  2. Yeah I tried but they couldn't find it on the system And the rimmerbros one didn't go over the splines properly. Fortunately I went to a local clutch place and he had a Ford spline 215mm clutch so got that. In terms of the release bearing I asked the mechanic and he said it was clipped in as he had to unclip it out. He is going to modify the arm slightly to accommodate the mt75 release bearing from kitspares as we can get them easily
  3. Okay, the pressure plate is from a rover 420 however the clutch material is where I'm struggling now. The original was a borg and beck 53131 and struggling to find what that came out of. Searching for the exedy mzk 2100 I can't determine what that is from either
  4. this is what happened to the clutch
  5. the reason the metallic rattle happens is due to the play in the shaft that goes in to the bushing. The shaft has a bit of slop in the gearbox, so as it is rotating its hitting and making that noise (or thats at least what he thinks it is). When the bearing is in place we will most definitely find out. In terms of release bearing i have got a proper mt75 release bearing so should be clipped in properly now
  6. Well good and bad news. So bad news first. My clutch was smashed to pieces and looked like it had exploded. Good news is it can be fixed and the mechanic seems sure he can sort the rattle. He said with the mt75 needle roller it's too small for the gap in the brass bushing, however with some epoxy or metal putty he can place the needle roller in secure it with that in the bushing and this should stop the rattle. He did note its not advisable but its the best solution in a bad fitting hole. He did mention that if the resin fails then it will most likely rattle still and go to the back of the bushing causing no damage so its worth a punt
  7. well i spoke to someone at GBS today and good news gentlemen, they still have clutch parts for the rover t series non turbo, they also noted that they still have loads of parts left for superspecs but not just on the website
  8. @alanrichey can you not use the clutch plate from the URB10009 0215 or does it need to be the EXEDY MZK2100 for the release bearing
  9. If we was to get this done at a garage how much would we roughly be looking at?
  10. @alanricheyclutch cable is all in one piece but there is absolutely no movement from the top of the clutch pedal, however whilst I'm at it the cable will be changed so that it's not something I ever have to think about. I'll get on it and have a look. Hopefully a friendly garage will help me out in lifting it up and out to drop the gearbox out. I will update on how things go and if I can get rid of the rattle that would be amazing
  11. Hi all, took the superspec to be a wedding car and it decided that this was a good idea to get stuck in gear. I can change gear when sat still, however once the engine is running fat chance of that happening. The clutch pedal won't even press more than inch even if I put all my weight on it. Sooooo, the question is what is the clutch from and how much do we reckon its going to cost?
  12. To be fair there are alot of noises when the clutch pedal is out (normal for superspec) so it does become very hard to hear them. The only noise thst is new is when I'm trying to move and you can hear everything shaking
  13. Coming home today after a nice drive and some spirited driving my superspec was very violently jumping and shaking the car in 1st gear and when reversing into the garage it was jerki g back and forth making it harder to control at slow speed. When driving gently the car goes into gear smoothly but when accelerating to motorway speeds the car takes an absolute age to go in to gear if chooses to go in. What could be causing this. It's the rover engine mated to a Ford gearbox
  14. I have wired in my lambda sensor as per Andys drawings. I have the shielded wire going from lambda to the main loom. On Andys drawing it is joined shielding to shielding part. Could I not just take the new shielded wire and connect it to earth or does it need to be connected back to the ecu?
  15. Hi guys. Am I right in thinking that if I connect the shielding from the join to the chassis earth that would be the same as connecting to the shielding
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