cb750

Mine's the same design as that one. I think it's based on the VW Polo. Being an aluminium radiator I was told by the supplier (Radtec) to mount it on flexible rubber bobbin mounts and to only use the old style antifreeze with it. Apparently they have had failures at the matrix joints with the newer antifreezes

I run a facet red top pump. You can hear it when you switch the ignition on and goes quieter when the carb float bowls have filled but you can still hear it humming before starting the engine. I wait until the pump goes quieter before starting so that I know that the carbs have the correct level fuel and the engine starts first time. I was told by a supplier that the early red and silver top pumps would switch off completely when back pressure was sufficient but I don't know if that's correct.

I'm using these J & R driveshafts. If this is the same design as the ones that I bought, they are too large in diameter to pass though the hole in the swinging arm using the normal installation method. After discussions with the owner of J & R I had to take the outer joint off, put that into the hub from the inside, put the rest of the shaft into the diff and reconnect the joint. There's just enough room to do this. The owner said that he originally designed these for Westfields which don't have the hole size problem. let us know how you get on.

https://www.boggbros.com/

Hi Duck, I'm interested in the pinto front oil seal carrier (the bit you can't identify) can you let me know how much you would want to post it please. I can pay you by PayPal or cheque. Rob

I had exactly the same thing when I bought my car. Although it ran fine at low revs and gave no indication that there was a problem, it struggled to get passed 2500 rpm. Checked it over and found the following: Valve clearances closed up with 2 cylinders having no clearance. Spark plugs had never been changed, 1 had the tip missing and 2 had a ball of carbon on the end Timing out of spec ignition leads breaking down I was amazed it ran at all! SO before you start pulling things apart I would recommend carrying out a full service and then go from there

Can you post a picture up so I can see what you are looking at as my 3A does not use extensions.

That's a slightly different one to the map shown on the Stoneleigh website. 73 is shown only as a small area on that one

If it is block 73 then that looks to be small!

Valvoline vr1 20w50. I understand that it has a high sulphur content that is good for cam protection.

I had straight tie bars on my 3A but replaced them with ones made from the ends of the antirollbar as the Duck said (thanks for the bar Stu). The straight bars restricted the turning circle due to my wider wheels and the Sierra based bars gave me a bit more clearance. With both set ups I had to fit rack stops to stop the wheels fouling but as I said, this is down to my wheels. I fitted a 50x25mm box section tube under the monocoque between the 2 tie bar box sections to spread the load.

I've got a 3A and mines comfortable. Have you got the shocks set too stiff and are you running the original anti-rollbar set up or changed to tie bars?

Taxed car Monday. Had a great ride out in the sunshine but don't think I'll be out again this week looking at the weather!

As richyb66 says, they are for the 2 side bolts at the front of the cam cover.

Is the pump installed correctly (it looks to be vertical)? Doesn't the R1 have the pump horizontal or am I thinking of another m/cycle?