cb750

I had exactly the same thing when I bought my car. Although it ran fine at low revs and gave no indication that there was a problem, it struggled to get passed 2500 rpm. Checked it over and found the following: Valve clearances closed up with 2 cylinders having no clearance. Spark plugs had never been changed, 1 had the tip missing and 2 had a ball of carbon on the end Timing out of spec ignition leads breaking down I was amazed it ran at all! SO before you start pulling things apart I would recommend carrying out a full service and then go from there

Can you post a picture up so I can see what you are looking at as my 3A does not use extensions.

That's a slightly different one to the map shown on the Stoneleigh website. 73 is shown only as a small area on that one

If it is block 73 then that looks to be small!

Valvoline vr1 20w50. I understand that it has a high sulphur content that is good for cam protection.

I had straight tie bars on my 3A but replaced them with ones made from the ends of the antirollbar as the Duck said (thanks for the bar Stu). The straight bars restricted the turning circle due to my wider wheels and the Sierra based bars gave me a bit more clearance. With both set ups I had to fit rack stops to stop the wheels fouling but as I said, this is down to my wheels. I fitted a 50x25mm box section tube under the monocoque between the 2 tie bar box sections to spread the load.

I've got a 3A and mines comfortable. Have you got the shocks set too stiff and are you running the original anti-rollbar set up or changed to tie bars?

Taxed car Monday. Had a great ride out in the sunshine but don't think I'll be out again this week looking at the weather!

As richyb66 says, they are for the 2 side bolts at the front of the cam cover.

Is the pump installed correctly (it looks to be vertical)? Doesn't the R1 have the pump horizontal or am I thinking of another m/cycle?

My series 3 front top suspension "horns" are not like that, they are wider and cover the wishbones.

Looks great! I wrapped my sides and rear panel. As you say, it's straight forward enough, I did my 3A with the wheels etc still in place.

For known guaranteed quality items I use a local engineering fasteners suppliers as they will not deal in poor quality items for safety reasons. I've also used Namrick Ltd for UNF and odd size metric and found their service excellent. For stainless fasteners where I'm not too bothered as I use them mainly for cosmetic purposes I use eBay, someone like Kay's or bolt-world.

Arial Golden Arrow (Super Sport)? Looks really nice, one of my friends had one in the day. He loved laying down a smoke screen from the exhausts!

As this has an electric choke, has it been wired in correctly and does it work? I also agree about the cam, when I bought my engine it wouldn't run properly. I found that it had been fitted with a competition Rally cam which was never designed for road use. I changed it and the engine runs great.