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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Photos from the weekend https://photos.app.goo.gl/jS4rdXC1SguZ5XWf9
  2. 3 points
    Finish 2017's winter mods
  3. 2 points
    Well it took a bit longer tan expected to get round to loading then longer video but here it is:
  4. 2 points
    Guess who didn't check the website until he got to the George & Dragon? See you next time Andi, and yes I'll check where it is first!
  5. 1 point
    Yeah still got them... happy to go £200 but that's about the best it gets, otherwise I'm going to keep them and use one of them for a gaming sim chair! Will have one for sale then
  6. 1 point
    To be honest, I feel like September is typically a more consistent month than July, but... yeah, willing to take a chance on that one
  7. 1 point
    I don't think you'll make it Terry
  8. 1 point
    Hi Andi, Sorry I cannot make this one, new job (week 2) and working in Dublin for 3 days. I will pass onto Staffs guys.
  9. 1 point
    Club membership numbers are increasing steadily throughout the year (a benefit of the rolling memberships introduced last year) which is a good thing and as a Committee, we thought it would be good to welcome new members on the forum. We also thought it would be useful if we could show what areas of the country they are based so people can see if there are new members in their area. As a quick reminder, if people can put their approximate location on the Members Map it can help organising events and seeing where there are groups of members – useful in our continued attempts to get more things done at an Area level. GDPR regulations somewhat limit what personal information we can post so we will just put very limited information as below. Initially I will try and do an update on a monthly basis at the start of the month but this will depend on who joins when. We are in the process of reviewing the layout of the forums and plan to add a dedicated welcome section but until we do, I’ll put the information here. The first welcome goes out to the following people who have recently joined, thanks for coming on board and supporting the club. David J Braintree, Essex Michael W Cannock, Staffs Matthew S Killamarsh, Derbys Ben P Kettering, Northants Robert D Lutterworth, Leics Some of these guys are already posting on the forum but for the others, feel free to join in and make your voice heard.
  10. 1 point
    Hi bob, once again thanks. I contacted CBS and they came through with a wiring diagram for me so i will hopefully be able to put things right at the weekend. I will let you all know how I get on.
  11. 1 point
    Hi Michael I'm in Penkridge so not too far away Andi
  12. 1 point
    Anyone else seen the lego TV advert Brill
  13. 1 point
    Por15 is the dogs dangly bits. They use it on oil rigs. Some of it is not uv stable so make sure you get the right one. Unless it's just the parts the sun don't see. I did my wishbones and mirrors with it years ago and it's like plastic coating still
  14. 1 point
    Well I’ve just made all new alloy panels to cover the trans tunnel and re covered them in nice new leather. Fitted new gaiters to handbrake and gear lever. Next jobs: 1: replace exhaust sleeve. Mine is dented. I removed the exhaust and stripped it tonight, new sleeve to be ordered tomorrow. 2: remove the rocker cover and spray it white. 3: paint the brake callipers to a decent standard. Paint the unswept area of the disks too. 4: Carbotech brake pads. 5: nose cone and arches re wrapped. 6: fit the boot cover properly. 7: new seats and belts. 8: finish fabricating an alloy header tank and swirl pot. Relocate the filler cap. Fab and fit expansion tank. 9: fit the fuel filler in the boot facing up so I can get fuel in the bugger!! 10: new fuel lines. 11: paint the wheels black. 12: some viper stripes.
  15. 1 point
    It's clinging on by the edge of it's synchros
  16. 1 point
    POR-15 (paint on rust) is a great base coat that needs no prep. then top coat with your favorite color (or is it colour?).
  17. 1 point
    Blue and black are the ends of a wire wound resistor. The third yellow wire is connected to a wiper than literally ‘wipes’ a carbon pad across the windings as it’s rotated to give a percentage reference/feedback to the ecu. Swapping the black and blue will change the polarity and is most likely rectify the problem as already pointed out.
  18. 1 point
    Core is AH fabrications extruded internal micro fin. Very efficient flow. Bar and plate is highly restrictive. End tanks designed on a flow bench to utilise the Coanda effect. Tested on a flow bench after build. Pipe work welded as much as possible. Stopping for a biscuit is most important.
  19. 1 point
    Pictures of manifold, down pipe during manufacture, and lines etc
  20. 1 point
    I have fitted turbos to tens of cars, a few for my self and a lot for friends. Parts list would look like this: Turbo and actuator exhaust manifold or adapter to turbo Exhaust header to turbo Air filter ideally fed from outside of the engine bay oil lines, feed and return water lines, feed and return some vacuum and pressure lines for boost control, EBC if you desire, or a VSV switched on a duty cycle via the ecu intercooler/chargecooler if you run over 7psi boost and a BOV/Dump valve, recirculating if you have a MAF, recirculating or atmospheric if you go MAP Intercooler pipe work and clamps, V band clamps if the wallet allows with Mikalor clamps on the flexi hoses to decouple it from the engine movement. All Mikalor clamps if not V band A MAP sensor ideally over MAF to control fueling. Bigger injectors or a fifth injector on boost. A plenumn chamber is the usual choose over throttle bodies if you have those, ITBs take boost incredibly well but it’s harder to manufacture parts and tune trumpet lengths, room is also our enemy here. If if you love loud noises as much as me a screamer pipe is glorious. You can use a separate silencer like the Ferrari F40 or raw noise to the ears Some people have valves to switch between screamer and recirculating. Tou will obviously need time, tools, fasteners, fabrication skills.
  21. 1 point
    Will give Florin a wipe over with a damp rag, check oil,water & tyres & leave ready for some fine winter's day motoring. She's still burning oil but that's still affordable & I can still see whose following.
  22. 1 point
    Some non-essential "like to do's" but I doubt realistically I'll get time : Pull front suspension off and get the wishbones ceramic coated Install the 3J diff Pull the gearbox and rebuild it
  23. 1 point
    That's exactly what I said
  24. 1 point
    I will start; 1. Replace sump 2. Fit nitrous kit 3. Fit ME100 ECU 4. Repair trailer tent and fit tow hitch
  25. 1 point
    Here's a photo of mine to give you an idea of what it needs
  26. 1 point
    Process would be slightly different due to us using the st170 bottom end with the blacktop head but we went from bike carb to injection plus turbo for around £1500-2000 pretty easy to do though. If you already have injection you can save nearly £1000
  27. 1 point
    In California you get a 3 month temporary permit once you have 'brake & light" inspection and CHP (California Highway Patrol) gives you a VIN # completed. They expect you to get everything else done within the 90 days. DMV gets very uppity if you are not done in 90 days. Ask me how I know. But you do have full driving ability. So moving to California is an option, but not a very good one.
  28. 1 point
    Are you on a crusade to try kill off the show? Was it you earlier this year suggesting some classic car show (coincidentally down the road from your house) was a better show? I subscribe to CKC (are there any other kir car mags?) and no mention in there of anything.... the show seemed as busy this year as it did the 2 years before, so I'd be surprised if they were going to stop it. Their FB page confirms dates - a week earlier than normal because of the VE day holiday. I hope to God it doesn't stop - if that show goes, the whole industry is in trouble and our hobby.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks Dan - That's my reading (well hoping) of it too. I'm gonna forget it for now and just stick it in for IVA next year and just see what they say. Thanks as always Cheers Tony
  30. 1 point
    It comes down to what is easier for you to do, the engine swap or making the car nicer. For me it would be the engine swap.
  31. 1 point
    I can see the problem the steering wheel is on the wrong side
  32. 1 point
    The Zetec isn't a *straight* swap, no. One major difference is that the inlet/exhausts are on opposite sides of the engine between Zetec and Duratec. I'm fairly sure the bellhousing won't be a straight swap either.
  33. 1 point
    The Zetec design is 20 years newer than the Pinto and, with all respect to the many owners on here who still have a Pinto, it should be more reliable and has more power out the box, hence why any kits you see for sale will be more expensive with a Zetec. Duratecs are newer and more powerful still. Mazda MX5 engines are increasingly popular, although seem to be a little more complex to setup if you get VVT versions and slightly less power than Zetecs in standard form.
  34. 1 point
    I second that. This was without doubt the best event we have put on, and all down to the tireless effort and promotion from a handful of lovelies (you know who you are). Thanks to all who made it happen and all who attended. I've a feeling next year will be huge. It has been commented by some non members as better than Stoneleigh. Now that's a compliment Andi
  35. 1 point
    1 - Any sticky road tyre, thinking along the lines of Toyo R888 etc 2 - Drag slicks would be the best, and they are most commonly found in 15" so a spare set of 15s to fit the zero would be the way to go. They tend to be tall sidewalls though, so would have to make sure you got some that would fit under the arches, or setup so you can remove and refit arches easily to swap between wheels. I would think option 1 would be the most sensible, mainly because with the amount of grip you would have available on launch with a drag slick you are probably going to start breaking things.
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