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Hi George, Have a read through this post :- Hopefully it will give you a few answers to your question. Steve1 point
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Well, I really have to eat my words this month. I thought that with the season finishing and winter approaching that we would see a reduction in new members and an increase in the number of owners not renewing. As it turned out I couldn’t have been more wrong. Not only did we lose only 4 members but we gained an incredible 14 new members. It is really good to see all this new blood coming into the Club. So we welcome the following: (User name, location and Area Sec: Christopher Elmore Pontypool smpaarrkky James Davis Abingdon ThanasisPolitis Steven Nijenhuis Netherlands Me Jessica Price Liverpool Darrell Daniel Hildebrand Leighton Buzzard Me George Nottingham Andi Steve Potts Frome ThanasisPolitis Disco (Christopher) Torquay Robbie 2Bs Jakub Aldershot ThanasisPolitis Reg Mosey Derby Andi RevKev Glasgow Vacant Onewaydave Midlothian Vacant Richard Gutteridge Birminham richyb66 Daff (Alan) Pershore richyb661 point
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Could that be Hydrogen might be the solution?1 point
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Good Evening, I hope that you enjoyed your holiday. I will be there on Tuesday and hopefully a few others will turn out. Take care till then Allan1 point
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I've had problems with distributors in the past where the body of the distributor doesn't make good contact with the engine block (normally due to a bit of corrosion), and also there is usually a flexible wire from the points (sensor) mounting plate, connecting it to the body of the dizzy, which I have seen broken. A quick resistance check from the mounting plate in the dizzy to the negative of the battery should read pretty much short circuit - if it does then all's good and ignore my ramblings1 point
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Interference often happens when you've got a bad earth somewhere, trouble is it can be a real pain to find. I'd check any ground connections you can find. Don't forget the dizzy itself, you should have a good ground from it all the way back to the battery -ve but I've often found some resistance between the points (or module) and the block. Of course, now that I've said that it will probably be something totally different1 point
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Hi all, This will be at the George and Dragon in Meaford, Stone ST15 0PX. 7pm ish. Everybody is welcome kit or not. I might not be able to make this one. But we will see Map https://www.google.com/maps/place/George+%26+Dragon/@52.9162191,-2.1735143,1007m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x487a6f1e497e1e5b:0x53726cf3a32a2400!8m2!3d52.9157296!4d-2.1689576!16s%2Fg%2F1hc1cdm9c?authuser=0&entry=ttu Pub website https://www.thegeorgeanddragonmeaford.co.uk/?utm_source=gbp&utm_medium=Yext&y_source=1_MTQ0NTMyNjUtNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU%3D Andi1 point
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Hello everyone! Newby here so be gentle! I have a 1992 MR2 MK2 Turbo as the donor car, with the cheapest F430 body kit on it and I bought her 2 years ago with the kit on, planning on doing her up as I knew she needed some attention. Done a bit to her but the bit I am really struggling with …. I have no door handles just a 4 pin LED light push button momentary switch and trying to hook up to either: Universal car remote central locking kit - with actuators and has 7 coloured wires OR RF wireless remote control transmitter receiver with 5 ports - hooked to a Fuse Blade unit to fuse where I can and to have a main terminal to add other bits at a later date. I can hook up the universal locking system and the push button with relay, but when I lock the actuators with the remote, I can push the push button and the actuators will open. With the RF remote, I can lock and unlock with remote - all good I can lock and push the 4 pin button and it stays locked - great what I am looking for BUT when I hook up the 2nd one for the passengers side it does not work! After watching everything on line to hook up the different elements but not all together so been trying all sorts! It was working when I bought the car but had to press the push button twice to open the car door. The wiring was ridiculous so wanted to improve and upgrade it all …. Wishing I had not touch it now! Can anyone advise at all?????? Please!!!!!!!! hope the above make sense! I have had a retired auto electrician round too and he was not interested to help and all others will not touch old cars or they want me to take the car to them - hard when not road worthy yet!1 point
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Unfortunately, there are very few kit cars with doors and even fewer (any?) with remote locking. That was actually part of the appeal for me when building mine - I didn't want electric gimmicks. Electrics are sadly a real PITA at the best of times and, as you are finding, there are few pro's prepared to work on them because it can take hours with seemingly little progress, which makes it difficult to charge people. I would recommend trying to contact the manufacturer of the remote unit - they are your best bet. Sorry to not be of much help - good luck!1 point
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Hi there, where abouts are you? - stick your location on your profile and somebody close might be willing to come and have a look at it with you (for tea and biscuits of course). Also it might help if you can post up any drawings or pictures you have to help explain what you have. Hopefully some folks on here will have a few ideas for you to try.1 point
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Hello everyone, I wanted to share my journey of restoring my Tiger Cat E1 kit car, which I’ve named Eva. I’ve documented the entire process on my blog, and I hope it can inspire others who are interested in project cars or looking to take on similar restorations. From tackling extensive rust issues in the cooling system to refurbishing various components, I’ve chronicled each step of the journey, including the challenges I faced and the lessons I learned along the way. You can check out the blog here: A Tiger Called Eva. I’d love to hear your thoughts, and if you have any questions or tips, feel free to drop a comment! Looking forward to connecting with fellow car enthusiasts! Cheers, Thanasis1 point
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You can get some smaller size plates that are still legal so they are similar size to the nose cone and they do not protrude on the sides. Alternatively, you could get some stick-on number plates which I personally prefer. Have a look here for the available options: https://proplates.co.uk/collections/stick-on-number-plates1 point
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Tbh most of these bonnets were tweaked by the original builders around lampposts and trees to get a presentable fit, any reasonable sheet metal shop should sort it out especially as you’re not concerned about the mirror finish.1 point
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Hello all I have a 2ltr zetec as supplied in the kit from 12 years ago and I have removed the plugs for replacement and found them to be of two different types . Now I did not note which cylinders they came from so need to know if the replacements need to be 2 different types and if so what they need to be as the plugs are motocraft and which type goes in which cylinder Hope you can help Chris D0 points