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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/17/2020 in all areas

  1. I have, although it’s yet to be tested and will probably be tweaking the bracket. I used an mx5 slave cylinder. Can see how I did it below:
    2 points
  2. Last Week of November and 2 very nice deliveries turned up. The new pedal box and throttle bodies. Very excited with both. The pedals are from Compbrake and look awesome. Look very well built and hope they make the pedals feel better than the GBS pedal box, which has never really been something I was happy with as the clutch and brake pedals bind causing the clutch or brake to move when the other pedal is operated. I also need to make the changes due to the hydraulic clutch, so it all seemed like a good idea. This was the box when I opened it and it also has the bias adjuster.
    2 points
  3. Hi All, I hope everyone is staying safe in these crazy times! I though it was about time i joined everyone into what i have been up to with my Zero. I have been keeping a personal `diary' of my progress which has been anything but straight forward. I will update every few days or so. This will allow you to all catch up. As a brief introduction the plan was a quick engine swap and have the kit back on the road within 6 months! Oh how i misjudged that time scale!! What i will say is that i have had a lot of help from club members. My day job means i am sat at a laptop all
    1 point
  4. Interesting rule change! Of course, fitting LED bulbs does not necessarily equate to dazzling headlights, as a well engineered LED device would replicate, or better, the bulb it is intended to replace. I have Philips LED bulbs in my kit which, although bright, easily met the criteria of no light in the dazzle zone in previous MOTs. Actually, the tester noted that the horizontal cut-off was way better than that of H4 filament bulbs in similar headlights. I believe the burning question is: what dictates an "existing halogen headlamp unit"?
    1 point
  5. Below is the video recording Stu did of the first start! Not the best quality as he was recording me through his webcam via a remote dial in IMG_4681.mov
    1 point
  6. The Superspec has 2 independent temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. The ECU feed gives me an exact temperature reading, and over the last few years I have been able to use that to calibrate the gauge. Before this event I could see that the fan switched on at 95C, which equates to the ‘O’ of the word NORMAL on the gauge. So these 3 independent sources give me a very good handle on how the cooling system I’d doing.
    1 point
  7. shhh don't tell the wife just see the look on her face now ---- you and your toys
    1 point
  8. Hi Alan, As Ian says - what I think they are showing you how to modify an existing horn circuit, using the top switch to give the option of original horn or air horns and the other switch to disable the air horns. If you already have (or had) a working air horn set up on your car I would think you could simply replace your old compressor & horns with the new one. You should then only need to take the wires that went to the old compressor and connect them to your new one. Good luck, Steve
    1 point
  9. What is this meant to be ............... The stearing wheel. not a fuse. I would expect to wire a fuse between the battery positive and the relay pin 30. I am not sure what the power of the compressor is but 15A or 30A would be my guess. The old horn normally uses its mechanical mounting to be its earth (-ve) connection. I am guessing that the stared switch is to disable the air horns. I hope that this helps.
    1 point
  10. Well, that was an unintended long break but I'm back, with not one but TWO new videos from DuckSport? Thats right! The main video is a more typical DuckSport video and gives updates on what I have been doing more recently. The second video is a video I was working on before I ended up in hospital, and I felt wasn't going to work properly as a normal DuckSport video now but figured some of you might still want to see what I had been up to, so here it is. As always, thank you for watching and all of y
    1 point
  11. If the stat opens at 85 then that is the bottom end of the operating range. I would have thought 95 would be fine, after all you only want to stop it from boiling and that won't happen until over 100 due to the coolant being under pressure. That's how my red top is set up and it works fine
    1 point
  12. I mostly agree with the above, when you get the V5C and registration number the car will have an official date of first registration. This will normally be around the date of your IVA pass, and I believe the first MOT is then due three years after that. However, you should not use the car on the road without insurance. Anyone that needs to take a car for an MOT must have it insured, third party insurance allows you to drive TO a station for a definite timed appointment by the most direct route. My car is on SORN at the moment. It must be insured to take it for an MOT before I can tax it again
    1 point
  13. By luck, one of our members is telling us all about his conversion right now - take a look here:
    1 point
  14. Erm, no. I don't like the colour.
    1 point
  15. I think it’s safe to say that the water pump is not doing what it’s supposed to do the reason the switch does not come one till around 10mins after is due to thermo siphon effect. a Davis Craig type pump will do the job but fit it with its controller i have one fitted to my zero from when I built it ~ I removed the impeller from the pump and never had a problem
    1 point
  16. project for the new garage richy ?
    1 point
  17. Just need the jump leads and the Easy Start.
    1 point
  18. Thanks Richy yes, I take your point, not insurmountable but a little more difficult, been having a look today and had a few ideas regarding the cable set up and rigged it up to try a couple of different pedal ratios and liked the feel of less travel at the pedal. I think a re-design to incorporate cable adjustment and a ratio change will be the way to go.
    1 point
  19. Ok LED lights can be a nightmare. Because they work on such little currents the slight currant back feed through the switch can make them work where a normal bulb will pass the current but not shine. as a temp measure put standard bulbs back in while you check your wiring once your happy everything is working swop one bulb at a time. You might need resistors in the indicators or the headlights might need a relay so they only get currant from one feed. I have had friends fit LED headlights etc and seen exactly this problem on OEM cars. all manner of strange things started to happ
    1 point
  20. what switches have you got fitted tony because there are different ones from sierras, one is -ve earth on certain pins and different on others I have some good diagrams for ford stalks if you need them, also LED bulb in ign light savage switch was not enough to excite alternator, I had to put lamp under bonnet between alternator and lamp
    1 point
  21. great looking forward to your updates sounds complicated
    1 point
  22. As well as retarding the ignition for a cold engine, the temperature is used to apply choke, and turn on the manifold heater. So it's pretty important.
    1 point
  23. I have the luxury of a copy of the Haynes Service and Repair manual .... I found a copy on line some time ago... I am rebuilding using the original Sierra Gia model loom that had ALL the bells and whistles. I don't need most of the wire, but I am too cheap to just throw it away and buy a new purpose built loom. So I have been pruning literally pounds of weight out of the mass of wires, and in doing so have had to take care not to remove something I need. So to get to your questions. The manual says the Power Hold relay allows the stepper motor (it's what operates the choke) to operate for a sh
    1 point
  24. Give A Plan a call or message them they are always very helpful or have been for me Good LUCK, Steve
    1 point
  25. I have my Brooke kit car in storage, and the inurance is due for renewal. Does anyone have details of recommended insurers that provide good rates for both storage and on the road coverage ? Thanks v m.
    1 point
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