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It's actually this car that I've bought from Andrew shutt: Here's her last night about to leave Andrews care.

Just to finish this off. My car is started and running well. Although the gunge in the fuel filter would not have helped, the main problem turned out to be the battery - which I had some doubts about! - it no longer had enough oomph to turn the engine enough, to get the mechanical pump to drag the fuel through. I have also fitted a none return valve, but too soon to tell if this made any difference yet. There were other useful benefits of this investigation and fitting seat runners: It made me spot the broken earth from the windscreen washer pump (MOT failure) It made me spot how bad a length rubber fuel pipe was - looked fine but was crumbling away - must check any hidden under the car now. Found a really easy to access and available, ignition controlled live, to power an auxiliary socket - yippee, I thought this would be a nightmare.

Well it's now sat on my driveway having been collected last night. So many things that need attention on it but we'll start by getting the engine running (hopefully) then move on from there. Cheers Jon

Yes I should have explained better. My photo shows how some Superspecs (not mine) have the fuel hoses simply pushed into the pump connectors. My car actually has the proper elbows as Al describes, though I didn’t have a clear photo to show them. I would think the plastic elbows give a more secure and rigid connection, and also have the added advantage that they reduce the height of the hoses curving above the tank and hence the risk of kinking the fuel hoses with boot boxes or anything else on top.

You won't be surprised to hear that the are actually 2 methods of attaching the fuel pipes, the 'official' Ford one and the 'unofficial' Robin Hood method. Andy's photo shows the Robin Hood method where the pipes are simply pushed into the connectors. The official method uses two hard plastic plugs that go into the connector and then the fuel pipes are pushed on. In fairness to Robin Hood, most of the Superspecs used the 'unofficial' method and have worked satisfactorily for years. When I replaced my fuel pump (Coincidently Andy and I both had fuel pump failure within a few months of each other} I found it impossible to remove the red pipe and had to resort to cutting the fuel line. So I used the opportunity to use the official method. So I have a hybrid solution where the red line uses the 'official' method and the white line uses the Robin Hood method

Hi, and welcome to the club. I'm assuming you've got Sierra based donor parts and so the original tyres size would probably have been 165R13 which would be roughly the same diameter as 205/50 R 15. From your other post I see you are starting from scratch so it will depend on what speedo you decide to go with. You will soon discover that there is no standard way of doing things on a 2B and it is very much up to the builder. You can build it to suit yourself as long as you comply with all the IVA rules and requirements, and you'll have a car that's unique to you. Good luck, there's loads of members on here who'll be willing to help a fellow member. Steve

Update. Looks like I have sourced a replacement from eBay. Old one is off after a bit of struggling so fingers crossed it is not knackered like mine.

Hi Mick, Alan's link looks like it should work but appears to have an extra nw.rhocar.com in it. Try this - https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm Steve

In all the time I’ve had my RH Series 2, it’s always taken a long time to start it when doing so from cold and yet when warm, it’s fine. I always attributed this to being something to do with carb balance or something up with the choke assembly… I have been helping a friend troubleshoot an issue with his Bentley Arnage where it seems to be suffering from fuel starvation on startup. Having looked extensively into the cause of the issue, the part in question is a dodgy non return valve in the fuel line shortly before the fuel filter. It was at this point that I suddenly had a brain wave… It dawned on me that mine was never built with a non return valve in the fuel line, and so it was in my mind feasibly very possible that inevitably the fuel in the lines before the carb would simply dribble its way back towards the tank the longer it sat there, hence the long long time cranking as being a mechanical fuel pump, there is no priming and the fuel has to find its way along the length of the car before it reaches the carb. I have just spliced in my non return valve just before the fuel filter which means that a little reserve of fuel sits in the filter basically and is ready even after the car has sat for a while. If you haven’t done this and you’re having slow starting with your carb based pinto, do it! Mine is more or less an instant start from cold every time now! Soon going to be popping my FAJS throttle bodies on this thing so that it becomes fuel injected. The car just keeps getting better and better

I think that the small bore pipe is for the dipstick. The Large bore is oil fill.

Good news, well done. I can safely say I would never have figured that out. Now we just need to find out why he did it (and fix your lambdas sensor heater)

Just booked my ticket - all I've got to do now is actually make it all the way there this year .......................... fingers crossed

Just heard back from the Kimbolton organiser. Based on last years turnout (I think they were checking upon us ) she has booked us a Club Stand for 8 cars. That should be OK at the moment as we have the following attendees: Foz LeicsJim3a Keith & Becky AndyW Me So we have 3 spare slots. If anyone wants to attend as well then please let us know. If it turns out we need more than 8 slots I can probably get an increase. Don't forget to book your tickets at https://kimboltoncountryfayre.com/tickets/ , £10 for kit car & driver (£2.50 for a passenger)

Here is a video on how to balance your weber carbs.

I used to have ITG filter socks on my ZX6R carbs. They were tested on and off on a rolling road with no difference in power. We did this because the tester said the majority of socks steal power. And ITG socks look great too. Andi

I've got around to fitting the alternator - it seemed like an almost direct swap for my old alternator, but I wanted to drop it a bit lower to move it away from the exhaust, so I made some new brackets to utilise the bottom alternator mounting holes on the block rather than the top ones. Pulley was a direct swap from my old alternator. rose jointed bottom bracket bakewell aided design top bracket progress top bracket finished fitted. I've ordered a shorter belt to give a bit more clearance to the steering column. Andy