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IanS

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Everything posted by IanS

  1. Don't most of those parts come attached to the brake shoes?
  2. https://nw.rhocar.org/buildtips/tiebars.htm Are these what you have Dave Andrews had more details but his site http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/
  3. The Exmo front suspension was always Sierra track control arms, sierra ARB and sierra steering rack with sierra uprights. It used custom struts of unknown origin with Robin Hood adjustable spring seats. At the back there was the option of standard sierra rear springs and shock OR an adjustable RM adapted mini rear shock modified to coil over.
  4. Further to the fuel sender. The top of the tank can be reached by removing the boot lining. How to line the boot was left to the imagination of the builder so every one will be different.
  5. Alternator light on no charge = dead alternator most probably brushes and slip rings oxidized due to long lay up. If made with cut down sierra dash (instruments showing in dash between seats) then also oxidization of multi plug a possibility. Try squirting switch cleaner over contacts whilst connecting and disconnecting plug several times. Fuel tank is across back of car. Filler is on right side into top and sender is on left hand side also on top. To get at drop tank. Be careful removing sender as resealing can be hard. Filler is cut down sierra into standard sierra rubber gasket/sealing ring. Where are you?
  6. Great run out. Daughter also enjoyed being a passenger for once.
  7. Vacuum advance is mostly an economy system. At full power it does nothing as there is no vacuum in the inlet manifold with the throttle fully open. As you close the throttle inlet vacuum increases and the fuel/air charge entering the cylinder reduces. This reduces the pressure in the cylinder at the end of the compression stroke. The flame front of the burning fuel/air moves faster with high pressure and slower with low pressure so ignition advance curves attempt to get full burn happening at or soon after TDC to extract maximum power. If full burn comes later then engine efficiency falls.
  8. A couple of thoughts. 1 oil level a bit high or windage plate missing in the sump leading to frothing of the oil so there is air in the oil and this limits oil pump as it is now pumping oil and air. Have you got the standard sump or has it been modified? 2 oil not draining back to the sump and sitting on top of the cylinder head. take cover off and check that drain holes are clear.
  9. Do not forget that the float displaces fuel in order to float (Archimedes principle) so with the float in the fuel the level will be higher.
  10. Rust in the head. How far can in can you push a 7mm drill? Is it far enough to take the new sender? If so you could use a 8mm drill bit turned by hand to clear the *bleep* out.
  11. Yes rears should be able to lock, Have you got a limiting valve in the rears?
  12. Front brakes should always lock first. IVA fail if rears lock first.
  13. One front wheel locking before the other can be due to corner weight problems. The spring platforms are I assume adjustable. It can be that one diagonal takes more weight than the other diagonal so the weight on each front wheel is different.
  14. Is there any chance that this is a 6V or 24V alternator? If not then it looks to be bust.
  15. I appear to have a pass out, fingers crossed that the car starts.
  16. LEDs for cars use 12V. Polatity can be an issue.
  17. Fuse box would be my next check. A lot of cars have 4 fuses for the headlights Left Main, Left Dip, Right Main & Right Dip. If you do not know which fuse systematicaly remove one at a time to check if blown put good fuse back and check the next one.
  18. Most alternators use light to give early charging at engine start but most will self start charging when engine revs hit about 2000 rpm. Once charging the alternator only drops out when stopped. Some folk want something diferent when they build
  19. Starter solonoid is low current and will not need a relay. Alternator main output is normally permently connected to the battery, it has 3 phase rectifiers (diodes) installed which stop the alternator discharging the battery when stopped. Second wire is to the bulb in the dash. Normally a relay (70A?) from the ignition switch powers the live line of the most of the fuses, side lights and hazard lights have to work with ignition off and are the exception. It does not matter which way the alternator power line runs main relay-battery or battery-main relay, the one that uses least cable is normally chosen.
  20. Unless I am mistaken that is a zimeride (did I spell that right?) which were a robin hood modification of shock fitted to rubber suspension minis (British Leyland version not BMW version) Why there is a double spring fitted I dont know but it appears strange. As for sliding pillar I understand that they were stripped out of the doner front struts, I think that there are Utube 2B build videos showing how to do this allong with all the rest of the build. Richard S certainly did everything he could to keep build costs down. Ian
  21. The 2B is large for a severn inspired car. I suspect that the panels will end up not fitting, if you have a 2B then check things like rear panel width against equinox panels.
  22. Weather permitting I am with you.
  23. Look up the MOT history on the gov.uk website. This will give you milage going back several years. I have forgotten when leaded was phased out but 20 years ago is the right ball park. If the engine is still running after all this time then valve seat regression is not a problem. My 2l pinto has an early head that ford says needs leaded petrol, I decided to see what happened and just ran it on unleaded 70,000 miles later it still runs.
  24. When you say heater I take it to be a standard car heater where the waste head from the engine is transfered to the car through a small water radiator and a fan so 2 to 5 amps depending on fan speed. Lighting 5 amps for each headlight bulb plus 2 amps for everything else less if you have LED bulbs. so 12A. Everything else you mention less than 5A. total. So before electrical heated seats 20 to 25A max. Electrical heated seats are about 10A per seat though some have a higher initial setting for quick heatup but would only be at that setting for short times unless you live in siberia. 10A gives 120W try touching an old 100W bulb in your house after only a short time you get burnt. So I recon that 40A just about does you at night on a cold rainy day.
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