Electrics

Hi have had a prob with the starter over heating when the engine is hot the exhaust is almost touching the starter motor ( it did at first so re spaced exhaust ) so had to replace the motor i contacted the firm on e bay who sold me a Denso alternator customising it with a different pulley. talked through my prob with heat and exhaust near the solenoid they suggested an item from an auto has the starter mounted on the other side of engine and if fitted would move it down out of the way. this has more amps as well prob was it was longer and would not fit So the customised one for me taking the mount from an auto and the motor and solenoid from a Mondeo which gives more amp…

Hi All, I’ve still got a non running super spec after several months of tinkering. I am left with one final issue which is stopping it firing up. No Injection of fuel - the ecu isn’t telling the injectors to open. There is fuel pressure at the rail and power to the injectors but no injection. I watched a YouTube vid of a guy removing the immobiliser from a men’s 1.6 ecu by recoding a chip then cutting pin 13 inside the ecu box. I’ve checked my ecu and pin 13 has not been cut. The car has not run for me or the previous owner so I’m wondering if the ecu has been replaced at some point to fix a problem but without the immobiliser removed. Does anyone know if Robin Hoo…

Hello all and a merry xmas The car has been off the road for a cam change after the last one wore itself to bits, that was all done ok, come to start it up for running in and its dead. The edis ignition sys produces 1 spark on cyl1 when cranking then nothing, The VR signal is fine and very clean. All the terminals are clean, even tried multiple edis units all with the same reults, and multiple coil packs! Cleaned the Edis connector -no corrosion there.. We thought it might be a problem with part of the ign loom, so we tried connecting the edis+coils direct to the battery terminals, and had the same 1 spark and nothing.. wondering if it coul…

I'm losing power on aux1 when I crank the engine over, but this does not seem to affect power to Aux 2. Is it likely a faulty switch? I want to run my Emerald ECU Pin 11 from Aux 1 and then the ECU Relay supply to Pin 28 (triggered from Aux 2). This should allow my cooling fan relay to keep running until lower limit is reached, provided the key remains at position 1. Works fine if I run a permanent feed to Pin 11, or join 11 and 28 to Aux 2. What have others done here?

Hi all, Here comes the second question of what is going to be many over the winter. It looks like the car I have brought only has two GPS speedos fitted so I have no record of mileage on the engine. This is presenting me with two issues. The insurance company have asked me for proof of mileage for the policy as I am on a limited (4k) per annum policy. I will be calling them in the morning to discuss what I can do. My main concern is when it comes round to the MOT at the end of Feb, what do I do for this?? There was another speedo fitted but have tried 12v directly onto it and it doesn’t light up so guessing this is goosed and that’s why the…

So - what's everyone using? I have a Megajolt/EDIS4 combo on a C20XE with wasted spark (Ford style coil pack). Have been chasing gremlins and suspect the EDIS 12 pin connector at this point, but can't find new connectors or pins to recon the one I have, and looking at forums, I'm not the only one with this headache. Looking for a more modern replacement, so what's everyone using? It's a road car which I'm dailying, but also some track/race use, so I'd favor reliability over multiple map options etc. Ignition only for now. I'm looking at: * NODIZ Pro: looks like a great plug and play unit, but have seen people poo poo them saying it's cheap for a reason - b…

Let me start with a Caveat, I have completely rewired the car, stripped out all the old 1989 factory harness & replace it with my own, so potentially there is nothing wrong with the alternator & the fault is in my wiring, however I don't think it is & will go onto explain why. The car is based on a 1989 Skoda Rapid 136, when I got it back (owned 17 years ago) the wiring was not in the best state, corroded connections, relays that had clearly had water in, when I got the car started the alternator would not put out more than 13.2V & looked worse for wear. I took it to the local shop who did a refurb on it, new bearings, new bushes, cleaned up the comm,…

Hi all, Has anyone any recommendations for any particular make of electronic ignition for a 2.0l Pinto engine Tiger Supercat please? Anyone fitted one for this engine and been pleased with the results? Anyone had bad experience with electronic ignition, and if so, what caused it please? I'm too old now to be fiddling about with points frequently and the potential problems, the idea of more reliable ignition appeals greatly. Cheers. Phil.

Rewiring the car as the existing 1989 Skoda wiring loom was past it's best, brought all the wiring forward from the rear in an engine loom & a lighting loom. Got the indicators working on the bench, with simple switches a on/off as the ignition & a on/off/on as each side, I have them wired as Pin 49 + Switched Live (will be via ignition) Pin 49A Load going to on/off/on switch (stalk replacement) Pin 31 - going to battery earth Switch ignition on, switch the on/off/on in either direction works as expected. Now onto the hazards, I want to get them working on a simple on/off switch, I tried to instal a changeover relay in the 49A feed to bypa…

Morning all, I'm new here. So out of the blue, the car will fire up on demand, but will cut out when the key is released. Ive seen a couple of previous posts with similar issues, but can't find again now. I have fuel pressure (for 2 secs tops which is correct) when the rail is being primed and then when it fires the fuel pressure increases to 3bar. But when I let go of the key, the engine stops. Im based in Plymouth. Car is really stressing me out now.

Car stopped charging while out on a run, I managed to get home but when I checked voltage across battery without car running and with the car running was the same, 12.35 volts. To lazy to check wiring I ordered a new alternator, fast forward 3 days and in the garage with the new alternator fitted and checking voltage across battery to find exactly the same readings. I walked back into the kitchen because everything looks better with a cup of tea, 15 minutes later when I started checking wiring. I found a connector at the alternator end burned out as the wire had come loose. Great I thought easy but being the person I am and 3 years ago I completely rewired the c…

Hi, I’m sure this has been done to death by now, however after searching the forum most of links are not invalid due to the age of the posts. There must be an efi wiring diagram for these somewhere but I can’t find one. can anyone assist with the efi wiring please what do I cut what to keep? Thanks

How do I know if my column switches are positive or negative switching originally? I’ve the type with a circular hazard button and steering wheel horn push. My dip wire (56b Brn/wt) seems to have permanent continuity with earth regardless of switch position. Im fitting two relays for headlight and main beam so ideally I want to positive switch them.

Hello new member here Help please I am running a 2L Pinto in a Q plate 100e. with an electrical misfire. The Original jack shaft and distributor gears were like razor blades causing backlash so they were changed. A new electronic distributor and jack shaft were fitted with a black box, Misfire still there. I have noted that the new distributor wobbles when trying to adj the timing. (Don't know why but could account for the worn gears and misfire) Time to bite the bullet and do away with the distributor but as always I am on a Budget and cant afford to buy new Does any one have a spare Pinto trigger kit (or parts off) also an EDIS4 module with plug …

As part of fuel outlet fix in my 2Bs standard stainless tank the sender unit has failed (was working fine until I had to take it out of the tank). Its the original Sierra sender from the donor tank but I cant find a replacement anywhere except second hand at £250!!! Has anyone found a drop in equivalent? There are plenty of universals but the flanges are too small.

Help, I am struggling to source one of these ignition switches... anyone know how / where I can source one from? IMG_6545.HEICIMG_6544.heic

Well she failed her MOT very quickly today. So quickly in fact that I didn’t get charged thankfully. Headlights come on but no sidelights and no rear lights. Fogs work, indicators work, main beam works, no side or rear.

Since I have replaced the fuel pump in my Superspec I have had doubts about the reading to the fuel gauge (which previously has worked perfectly). My doubts arise because, while I rarely get chance to use the car, I have been on a couple of reasonable length journeys and yet the fuel gauge still reads 3/4 full, which I sincerely doubt. I have read that some of these pumps give backwards readings, so it could be 1/4 full. I am hoping that someone can look at this picture of the inside of my tank and give me a rough estimate if it looks pretty empty or pretty full. The ideal way to diagnose this would be to fill the car full and see what the gauge says …

My alternator developed a death rattle at the weekend while on a run out. It's a standard Pinto alternator that I've fitted with a multi vee pulley so I can use it with my serpentine drive belt. The pulley was always a bit big for the shaft so I'd shimmed it out to fit and it'd been OK for nearly 10k miles despite the fact that the auto tensioner puts a massive radial load on the pulley and shaf.. On initial inspection the pulley appeared to be tight (but not running dead true) and the fan could be turned on the shaft. I removed the pulley and then saw that the keyway in the shaft was a bit munched up and the pulley had been moving on the shaft causing it to …

Hi guys, I hope someone will answer me, i rebuilt a fiesta rs1800 and i installed an omex 600, the car don’t start and i think there’s something wrong with the map of the ecu somebody got a file with a map running for that? thanks a lot

I have a 1 year old Yuasa 3000which gives 45ah and 440A (which I believe is the cold crank rating). all winter the only way to get the car started is to jump it but then I’m not able to drive far incase it stops. So I am thinking perhaps just needs a bigger battery, but this surely is big enough for the light requirements (no alarm or immobiliser) of a 2.0 N/A Superspec. what do you use?

I was given a Robin Hood a couple of months back, the onlythign stopping it from being on the road is a lack of charging. Pinto 2.0 I replaced the Regulator and rectifier with no improvement. A "New" one gave no charge either. The space in the hood is tight a larger alternaor fouls the steering column. Anyone got an idea on an easy fit replacemtn that's the same or smaller size? Cheers Rob

Hi all I've just changed my front indicators to more compact units and now the both direction flash fast, all indicators are working, swap back to old units and they flash normal speed, as I'm rubbish with electrics this could probably be an easy fix but I'm not sure where to start Can anyone help me out and give me direction ( pardon the pun )

Greetings fellow merry men Have just purchased a Robin Hood widebody for some summer open top fun All good apart from no wipers ( I have read all threads to-date on this topic but would like further help) The current stalk fitted states Escort: 1-The lights work correctly on the left stalk 2-The right stalk has the wipers controlled by up & down movement (not twist) & washer button on the end - despite a live feed into the plug wipers & washer do not work 3-I took a feed directly onto the washer pump & this works fine 4-I will need to do the same to the wiper motor & check the fuse box (both difficult to access but old clips of Houdini will help…

Hi all, I need some help! Car now runs, however the alternator is not charging the battery - I have no idea if it worked before tear down, so fighting blind…especially as I’ve rewired the car too. The wiring loom has two positive wires to the alternator, a 6mm (main charge) and a 2mm called ‘positive connection for charging’. Currently I have them both to the +ve post on the alternator but it’s not charging. Have I wired it right or wrong? Could the 2mm be a “battery sense” wire and need to go to the regulator? Could that be why it’s not charging? It’s a Zetec Silvertop. I’ve included the wiring guide and a diagram of the alternator plug (type 2…