Chris Scott

So…it’s been a long cold inactive winter. With a heavy(ish) heart I’ve sold the car/project. I’ve enjoyed it immensely but sadly a new job, new house and new baby have meant that it’s just not going to get the attention it deserves. I need the space and time! The good news is it’s been sold to a classic car enthusiast who plans to restore it fully and take it to Le Mans, which is great because it had been before! I am confident he’ll carry on my work and get it finished. I just want to finish by saying a massive thank you to this community, I have never ever met a group so helpful! Thanks for everything, all the best. Chris

I have a feeling this is exactly what’s happened, the airlock is in/at the pump. Will Jack the front right up at the weekend

Thanks both, Alan, the switch is in the radiator - previously the radiator got hot, i then changed the switch as a precaution - obviously losing coolant in the process - I’ve topped it up and this is the first time it’s run since. Hence why I think it could be airlock. Ian - yes I’ve seen about the water pumps - all I’ve read suggests I have right one - and it did seem to work before - but certainly something I will look at as well

Brilliant thanks - that gives me a few things to check One day I’ll have a functioning car!

Hi Alan, so this is my setup… Alternator is a modern denso one, that gets a 12v signal from ignition to fire into life - this is all working now The light is wired as per the generic loom instructions (which probably don’t take into account the smart alternator) which is 12v to one side from ignition* and then a wire to the “light” terminal on the alternator however as it’s the ignition that fires the alternator and not the light I suspect i need to change something - just not sure what??? *the light currently has a switched 12v from the ignition circuit….should it be direct to battery instead?

Updated question - the alternator now appears to be functioning - I get 14v at the battery when running. However the charge light on the dash doesn’t go out…stays red! As far as I can tell it’s all wired correctly…any ideas?

So, for every step of progress on my rebuild i seem to take two steps back! When my car (1.8 Zetec) runs the top radiator hose gets hot - I’m taking this to mean thermostat is working. However the radiator itself stays cold and the rad fan doesn’t come on - despite the engine approaching 100 i cracked the rad cap and coolant started to come out so the level is correct and it’s pressurising. Could this be as simple as airlock in the radiator? And if so any tips on how to cure it?

Started on the button yesterday, but still on three cylinders Rev counter now works (bad earth), but alternator still doesn’t appear to be working!!! (Charge light doesn’t go out) A bit of investigation has answered the 3 cylinder mystery…a bit wet!

For the first time in two years, it looks like a car again! Still a number of jobs to do but every one is a step closer!

Bit of cosmetic work today!

I’ve done some more digging, based on what’s been said on here and I think I have a 4 wire alternator like the picture. I have a 6mm and a 2mm wire for the alternator (both going to battery) and both attached to post on alternator(4). I have a warning light wire too(1) - so 3 wires only. I don’t have a switched live going to the alternator at all, do you think this could be the issue?

Very helpful thanks! Both the block and bracket are painted so well worth looking at the earthing, I’ll also give the voltmeter check a go when revving.

Hi all, I need some help! Car now runs, however the alternator is not charging the battery - I have no idea if it worked before tear down, so fighting blind…especially as I’ve rewired the car too. The wiring loom has two positive wires to the alternator, a 6mm (main charge) and a 2mm called ‘positive connection for charging’. Currently I have them both to the +ve post on the alternator but it’s not charging. Have I wired it right or wrong? Could the 2mm be a “battery sense” wire and need to go to the regulator? Could that be why it’s not charging? It’s a Zetec Silvertop. I’ve included the wiring guide and a diagram of the alternator plug (type 2 or 3)

Time for another update - although not quite as positive as I hoped. Fired up again yesterday and now running nicely on 4 cylinders. However there are some problems! Couple of fairly significant oil leaks, hoping it’s just from the old rocker cover gasket (new one to be fitted when I paint the cover). A coolant leak which is hopefully the lower hose. An alternator that’s not charging - probably needs new as it was damp stored for years before I got it so could well be past saving. Coolant switch didn’t seem to work - need to remove it and test it with some boiling water as it’s brand new. Finally the rev counter didn’t work (assuming it’s wired correctly) is there a way to test whether it’s the rev counter that’s at fault?

Again, been a while! Today was a big big day….despite only running on 3 (issue is plug lead), we have a running car! This is a big moment! First time it’s run since the day we bought it. IMG_4671.MOV