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Chris Scott

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by Chris Scott

  1. So…after a couple of months of forum inactivity I thought I would update the community on my progress…as there has been some! The diff has been freed from its prison of corrosion, cleaned, resealed and refitted into a refurbished subframe. New stainless bolts and poly bushes have seen that looking so much better! The backing plates and drums have been cleaned and painted and are now back on the car. I have replaced the mounting plates for the subframe for thicker galvanised versions as well as patched the rear bulkhead. The drivers seat is now fitted to new runners. Finally, a friend has machined me a lovely ally plate to mount the new quick release for my steering wheel. Next job will be mounting the steering column.
  2. Thanks all, it’s all back together now - a pain to have the issues but a relief that it was only my carelessness not anything more serious!
  3. Don’t be so sure I accounted for this I removed this morning and looks like it was nearly all my fault I will say that in my defence the strange thing is the shafts have the LH and RH threads the wrong way round (IMHO) as it would seem they would undo themselves as the car drove.
  4. Evening all, weird one… I’ve had my hubs/driveshafts rebuilt (new bearings and gaiters) went to fit yesterday. RHS slid in and bolted up perfectly. Went to fit the LHS and it doesn’t fit, it slides into the diff, however the hub end is about 30mm away from the mounting point, it all binds up if I try to compress and bolt up. Any ideas? I assume maybe the CV has come apart inside or something?
  5. Now this interesting - because mine has an additional M12 bolt and the reinforcing plate - so maybe the other bolt is a little redundant. If that’s the case I’ll likely just go M12 for both
  6. Evening all, does anyone know the dimensions of the big bolts that hold the rear subframe to the chassis? I thought they were M12 but when they arrived the shouldered part seems too narrow. I’ve measured the old bolts and it seems to be 12.4mm diameter so slightly bigger than M12, any ideas?
  7. Thanks for the replies - sorry for my late reply. All sorted now luckily, just waiting on some parts then it’s time for the big reassemble
  8. Thanks, it’s 100% one long bolt so either 6.5 or 7 - wonder if it’s my mistake as when I checked it says Sierra/Cosworth on my listing - would Cossie be different?
  9. When I went to order wheel cylinders they were all wrong, apart from ones that fitted the 1.6 - also wondered what was different about the 1.6
  10. So I’ve had a bit of a nightmare - ordered a set of diff seals, popped them on the shelf - months later go to fit them and they are wrong! Is there any easy way to ascertain what Sierra diff I have? Is it a 6.5, 7 or 7.5? What does that measurement actually refer to? Or is it easier to just take the seals to a bearing/seal company and get them to identify/supply them? Thanks
  11. Yes, the crack is a concern but looking at the corrosion it’s is both superficial and old…hoping once bolt is out this is still the case There is certainly a spacer, but not sure why as the gearbox is as far back as it can go so assume it must be the prop that’s modified.
  12. Thanks - subframe is now out thank god! Issue I have is both trailing arms have a bolt seized in the bush and the diff has one bolt seized solid too! I think I’m defeated, will give it to my dad to see if heat will help it free off
  13. Interior was thrown in the skip about 6 months ago attack is the word though - Sunday it’s man vs car!
  14. Thanks, luckily that part of it is all sorted. I'm currently stuck removing the sub frame through the monocoque! Where the nut, bolt and bracket is seized I can't get it through the hole but also can't get a grinder in there! What fun :)
  15. Thanks Ian, this is very helpful. So far I’ve managed to take the big bolts out that go through the bush, a slightly smaller bolt that is next to it that goes through the subframe and yet it’s still not moving Tonight I need to grind some bolts away and see whats holding it still
  16. Like all best laid plans things always change in the world of kit cars… Whilst trying to remove the diff it became apparent that everything was seized and corroded solid! As a result I’ve decided that there is no point doing things by halves…the subframe and diff are coming out together for a full refresh. Currently it’s all unbolted…however it’s still not coming away from chassis so tomorrow’s plans are now sorted
  17. Thanks both, the aim is to get arms off this week to see what’s needed and what can be salvaged - that will govern what’s needed
  18. Oddly I’ve actually put the bike carbs back on this week! I want a known quantity for when I redo the electrics. It was running on bike carbs when I bought it However, long term webers is the goal, I have a number of friends that race engines with Webers so getting them set up should be a doddle.
  19. Evening all, has anyone got any sources for replacement rear trailing arm bushes for a Sierra? I can obviously find the power flex ones and the metal cosworth ones…but does anyone know if the standard rubber replacement ones can be sourced? My excellent local factors have drawn a blank Thanks
  20. This week’s focus has been on starting to investigate the rear end - having never even removed the rear wheels until now. After removing the fuel tank (and 20 years of attached grime) I started my investigation. I was aware of a diff leak, but also found the need for a pair of new wheel cylinders, new CV boots, new brake hoses and a rear wheel bearing. Nothing major, but more money and time The parts have been ordered, just need the time over the next few weeks to get it all done.
  21. Brilliant advice, thanks - I’m popping to local factors tomorrow to see what options are available
  22. Also - big thanks - advice worked! Now need CV boots and wheel bearings …one job always leads to 5 more
  23. Unbelievably helpful, thank you so much! Will try and use work printer tomorrow to make a hard copy.
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