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Chris Scott

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by Chris Scott

  1. I’ve done some more digging, based on what’s been said on here and I think I have a 4 wire alternator like the picture. I have a 6mm and a 2mm wire for the alternator (both going to battery) and both attached to post on alternator(4). I have a warning light wire too(1) - so 3 wires only. I don’t have a switched live going to the alternator at all, do you think this could be the issue?
  2. Very helpful thanks! Both the block and bracket are painted so well worth looking at the earthing, I’ll also give the voltmeter check a go when revving.
  3. Hi all, I need some help! Car now runs, however the alternator is not charging the battery - I have no idea if it worked before tear down, so fighting blind…especially as I’ve rewired the car too. The wiring loom has two positive wires to the alternator, a 6mm (main charge) and a 2mm called ‘positive connection for charging’. Currently I have them both to the +ve post on the alternator but it’s not charging. Have I wired it right or wrong? Could the 2mm be a “battery sense” wire and need to go to the regulator? Could that be why it’s not charging? It’s a Zetec Silvertop. I’ve included the wiring guide and a diagram of the alternator plug (type 2 or 3)
  4. Time for another update - although not quite as positive as I hoped. Fired up again yesterday and now running nicely on 4 cylinders. However there are some problems! Couple of fairly significant oil leaks, hoping it’s just from the old rocker cover gasket (new one to be fitted when I paint the cover). A coolant leak which is hopefully the lower hose. An alternator that’s not charging - probably needs new as it was damp stored for years before I got it so could well be past saving. Coolant switch didn’t seem to work - need to remove it and test it with some boiling water as it’s brand new. Finally the rev counter didn’t work (assuming it’s wired correctly) is there a way to test whether it’s the rev counter that’s at fault?
  5. Again, been a while! Today was a big big day….despite only running on 3 (issue is plug lead), we have a running car! This is a big moment! First time it’s run since the day we bought it. IMG_4671.MOV
  6. Sorry for the late reply, this was so helpful!!! Now have a fully functioning wiper circuit
  7. Absolutely ace, thanks! I will use your diagram to have one final bash as I may have wired it wrong! But if not I’ll do the simple circuit described above
  8. This is really helpful thanks, but my limited knowledge of electrics still sees me stuck…but hope you can help… If I wanted to run a simple on/off switch to make this work on (let’s say) fast setting only - would I just need a switch between the feed from the ignition and the 53B terminal? Am I right in assuming the motor earths through the body and not any of the terminals?
  9. Essentially, from my limited knowledge, I believe the parking circuit is causing me the grief…just not sure how to cure the issue
  10. Hi all, this is a bit complicated to explain but here goes… I have a Sierra wiper motor, but doing away with Sierra column switches. When I switch ignition on the wiper motor makes a grinding noise and blows it’s fuse. If I wire directly to battery the motor is fine. My question is, if I want just a simple on/off for wiper motor how do I wire it? As loom has 5 wires and the feed from fuse is a permanent live…I assume the old column switch did some magic as you normally select a speed.
  11. Honestly - it really frightened me…I’m always very health and safety conscious…one lapse and Christ did i nearly pay for it! I’ve put the grinder away in the shed - never liked it and always scared of it!
  12. Update 2 is more akin to normality. Progress on the loom is excellent, I’ve built a lower dash for the hazard switch, ignition barrel and 12v socket. I’ve also built a new main dash which is on its way to being wired in. Initially I will paint the plywood black - then once the car proves it’s a runner I’ll cover in faux suede.
  13. So…a couple of updates since I last posted… Number 1 is semi-serious as I came close to never posting again. 4 days ago, and a couple of days after the birth of my 2nd child, I decided to quickly do some work on the car. After cutting a hole in the bulkhead I decided to use the grinder to smooth off the edges. As it was a tricky area I had to remove the guard (mistake 1), I also had shorts on (mistake 2). On the last pass with the grinder the disc grabbed, the jarring motion sent it into my leg, across my groin and jamming into my stomach! I walked off the pain, relived no one had seen my idiocy - when I looked down I saw the 5inch long, 1 inch gash in my leg! 6 hours in A and E resulted in the removal of part of the disc, stitches and a lesson learned - genuinely…6 inches higher and I may not be here to tell the tale!
  14. Thanks @nelmo - and for all the help so far! Hopefully nearly there with main electrics - then I’ll need to make an exhaust before starting it
  15. So sorry; the electrical questions are coming thick and fast! Just ordered a sensor for my temp gauge which has one terminal (it earths through the body) however my loom has a wire for earth to the gauge. Do I just earth to the chassis instead? I assume so…
  16. That is incredibly helpful - thank you!!!
  17. Another question! I have an Autosparks loom and a Trigger Wheel ECU loom. The loom instructions say “the positive coil feed can be used as switched ignition for ECU.” The TW loom instructions says one of the wires is “12v first click ignition” Do I need to connect these? (Sorry if it’s a silly question) I’ve attached pics… Thanks
  18. Question 2 I have a Zetec Silvertop, not sure what the alternator is off….possibly Escort It has a post for the positive leads but a three pin plug for the charger light. Is there any way (or process I can follow) to work out which pin I need? Thanks
  19. Thanks, I’ve got the aftermarket coolant rail and bike carbs on a custom inlet. Ideally I just need the temp gauge one to work as I’m going to have the coolant fan on a switch.
  20. So, having started the electrics, here comes the first of many (I suspect) questions! The engine (Zetec Silvertop) has two sensors, does anyone know which is which - I assume one is gauge and one rad fan switch? Also, both have 2 pins but only one wire, so I assume one pin just goes to earth? Finally, do the sensors have a pos and neg or does it not matter? Thanks in advance
  21. Thanks both, I’ve got some proper fabric loom tape coming to neaten up and protect further - will look into some tubing as well. It’s a brand new Autosparks loom, I’m no electrician so needed something that was plug and play(ish) - now I have a starting point I’m hoping it won’t be too bad to wire up!
  22. So after weeks of procrastinating (through fear of the task) I finally started on the electrics today. Having had several aborted attempts, I finally decided that the sensible path was to install the fuses and ecu first. I have built a small shelf to house the units (which sits above the passengers feet. I would love to have made it from metal but don’t have the tools or materials - but painted plywood looks good and should do the job.
  23. that’s ok, I won’t hold it against you! I do think those double crimps look to be the way to go, and given the other advice it’s the best (and easiest) method for me. Thanks again, Chris
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