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Chris Scott

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by Chris Scott

  1. So…it’s been a long cold inactive winter. With a heavy(ish) heart I’ve sold the car/project. I’ve enjoyed it immensely but sadly a new job, new house and new baby have meant that it’s just not going to get the attention it deserves. I need the space and time! The good news is it’s been sold to a classic car enthusiast who plans to restore it fully and take it to Le Mans, which is great because it had been before! I am confident he’ll carry on my work and get it finished. I just want to finish by saying a massive thank you to this community, I have never ever met a group so helpful! Thanks for everything, all the best. Chris
  2. I have a feeling this is exactly what’s happened, the airlock is in/at the pump. Will Jack the front right up at the weekend
  3. Thanks both, Alan, the switch is in the radiator - previously the radiator got hot, i then changed the switch as a precaution - obviously losing coolant in the process - I’ve topped it up and this is the first time it’s run since. Hence why I think it could be airlock. Ian - yes I’ve seen about the water pumps - all I’ve read suggests I have right one - and it did seem to work before - but certainly something I will look at as well
  4. Brilliant thanks - that gives me a few things to check One day I’ll have a functioning car!
  5. Hi Alan, so this is my setup… Alternator is a modern denso one, that gets a 12v signal from ignition to fire into life - this is all working now The light is wired as per the generic loom instructions (which probably don’t take into account the smart alternator) which is 12v to one side from ignition* and then a wire to the “light” terminal on the alternator however as it’s the ignition that fires the alternator and not the light I suspect i need to change something - just not sure what??? *the light currently has a switched 12v from the ignition circuit….should it be direct to battery instead?
  6. Updated question - the alternator now appears to be functioning - I get 14v at the battery when running. However the charge light on the dash doesn’t go out…stays red! As far as I can tell it’s all wired correctly…any ideas?
  7. So, for every step of progress on my rebuild i seem to take two steps back! When my car (1.8 Zetec) runs the top radiator hose gets hot - I’m taking this to mean thermostat is working. However the radiator itself stays cold and the rad fan doesn’t come on - despite the engine approaching 100 i cracked the rad cap and coolant started to come out so the level is correct and it’s pressurising. Could this be as simple as airlock in the radiator? And if so any tips on how to cure it?
  8. Started on the button yesterday, but still on three cylinders Rev counter now works (bad earth), but alternator still doesn’t appear to be working!!! (Charge light doesn’t go out) A bit of investigation has answered the 3 cylinder mystery…a bit wet!
  9. For the first time in two years, it looks like a car again! Still a number of jobs to do but every one is a step closer!
  10. I’ve done some more digging, based on what’s been said on here and I think I have a 4 wire alternator like the picture. I have a 6mm and a 2mm wire for the alternator (both going to battery) and both attached to post on alternator(4). I have a warning light wire too(1) - so 3 wires only. I don’t have a switched live going to the alternator at all, do you think this could be the issue?
  11. Very helpful thanks! Both the block and bracket are painted so well worth looking at the earthing, I’ll also give the voltmeter check a go when revving.
  12. Hi all, I need some help! Car now runs, however the alternator is not charging the battery - I have no idea if it worked before tear down, so fighting blind…especially as I’ve rewired the car too. The wiring loom has two positive wires to the alternator, a 6mm (main charge) and a 2mm called ‘positive connection for charging’. Currently I have them both to the +ve post on the alternator but it’s not charging. Have I wired it right or wrong? Could the 2mm be a “battery sense” wire and need to go to the regulator? Could that be why it’s not charging? It’s a Zetec Silvertop. I’ve included the wiring guide and a diagram of the alternator plug (type 2 or 3)
  13. Time for another update - although not quite as positive as I hoped. Fired up again yesterday and now running nicely on 4 cylinders. However there are some problems! Couple of fairly significant oil leaks, hoping it’s just from the old rocker cover gasket (new one to be fitted when I paint the cover). A coolant leak which is hopefully the lower hose. An alternator that’s not charging - probably needs new as it was damp stored for years before I got it so could well be past saving. Coolant switch didn’t seem to work - need to remove it and test it with some boiling water as it’s brand new. Finally the rev counter didn’t work (assuming it’s wired correctly) is there a way to test whether it’s the rev counter that’s at fault?
  14. Again, been a while! Today was a big big day….despite only running on 3 (issue is plug lead), we have a running car! This is a big moment! First time it’s run since the day we bought it. IMG_4671.MOV
  15. Sorry for the late reply, this was so helpful!!! Now have a fully functioning wiper circuit
  16. Absolutely ace, thanks! I will use your diagram to have one final bash as I may have wired it wrong! But if not I’ll do the simple circuit described above
  17. This is really helpful thanks, but my limited knowledge of electrics still sees me stuck…but hope you can help… If I wanted to run a simple on/off switch to make this work on (let’s say) fast setting only - would I just need a switch between the feed from the ignition and the 53B terminal? Am I right in assuming the motor earths through the body and not any of the terminals?
  18. Essentially, from my limited knowledge, I believe the parking circuit is causing me the grief…just not sure how to cure the issue
  19. Hi all, this is a bit complicated to explain but here goes… I have a Sierra wiper motor, but doing away with Sierra column switches. When I switch ignition on the wiper motor makes a grinding noise and blows it’s fuse. If I wire directly to battery the motor is fine. My question is, if I want just a simple on/off for wiper motor how do I wire it? As loom has 5 wires and the feed from fuse is a permanent live…I assume the old column switch did some magic as you normally select a speed.
  20. Honestly - it really frightened me…I’m always very health and safety conscious…one lapse and Christ did i nearly pay for it! I’ve put the grinder away in the shed - never liked it and always scared of it!
  21. Update 2 is more akin to normality. Progress on the loom is excellent, I’ve built a lower dash for the hazard switch, ignition barrel and 12v socket. I’ve also built a new main dash which is on its way to being wired in. Initially I will paint the plywood black - then once the car proves it’s a runner I’ll cover in faux suede.
  22. So…a couple of updates since I last posted… Number 1 is semi-serious as I came close to never posting again. 4 days ago, and a couple of days after the birth of my 2nd child, I decided to quickly do some work on the car. After cutting a hole in the bulkhead I decided to use the grinder to smooth off the edges. As it was a tricky area I had to remove the guard (mistake 1), I also had shorts on (mistake 2). On the last pass with the grinder the disc grabbed, the jarring motion sent it into my leg, across my groin and jamming into my stomach! I walked off the pain, relived no one had seen my idiocy - when I looked down I saw the 5inch long, 1 inch gash in my leg! 6 hours in A and E resulted in the removal of part of the disc, stitches and a lesson learned - genuinely…6 inches higher and I may not be here to tell the tale!
  23. Thanks @nelmo - and for all the help so far! Hopefully nearly there with main electrics - then I’ll need to make an exhaust before starting it
  24. So sorry; the electrical questions are coming thick and fast! Just ordered a sensor for my temp gauge which has one terminal (it earths through the body) however my loom has a wire for earth to the gauge. Do I just earth to the chassis instead? I assume so…
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