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installing either universal door remote central locking or an RF remote transmitter receiver both with 4 pin momentary 12v push button switch


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Posted

Hello everyone! Newby here so be gentle!

I have a 1992 MR2 MK2 Turbo as the donor car, with the cheapest F430 body kit on it and I bought her 2 years ago with the kit on, planning on doing her up as I knew she needed some attention.

Done a bit to her but the bit I am really struggling with ….

I have no door handles just a 4 pin LED light push button momentary switch and trying to hook up to either: 

Universal car remote central locking kit - with actuators and has 7 coloured wires 

OR

RF wireless remote control transmitter receiver with 5 ports - hooked to a Fuse Blade unit to fuse where I can and to have a main terminal to add other bits at a later date.

 

I can hook up the universal locking system and the push button with relay, but when I lock the actuators with the remote, I can push the push button and the actuators will open.

With the RF remote, I can lock and unlock with remote - all good 

I can lock and push the 4 pin button and it stays locked - great what I am looking for BUT when I hook up the 2nd one for the passengers side it does not work! 

After watching everything on line to hook up the different elements but not all together so been trying all sorts! 

It was working when I bought the car but had to press the push button twice to open the car door. The wiring was ridiculous so wanted to improve and upgrade it all …. Wishing I had not touch it now! 

Can anyone advise at all?????? Please!!!!!!!! hope the above make sense!

I have had a retired auto electrician round too and he was not interested to help and all others will not touch old cars or they want me to take the car to them - hard when not road worthy yet! 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi there, where abouts are you? - stick your location on your profile and somebody close might be willing to come and have a look at it with you (for tea and biscuits of course).

Also it might help if you can post up any drawings or pictures you have to help explain what you have.

Hopefully some folks on here will have a few ideas for you to try.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Unfortunately, there are very few kit cars with doors and even fewer (any?) with remote locking. That was actually part of the appeal for me when building mine - I didn't want electric gimmicks.

Electrics are sadly a real PITA at the best of times and, as you are finding, there are few pro's prepared to work on them because it can take hours with seemingly little progress, which makes it difficult to charge people. I would recommend trying to contact the manufacturer of the remote unit - they are your best bet.

Sorry to not be of much help - good luck!

Edited by nelmo
  • Thanks 1
Posted

First off, like Nelmo says we don't see many questions like this. However there's no harm in asking the questions. If possible do you have any details regarding the manufacturer and model of the bits, any clues like part numbers or names on the bits ?... I sort of assume you do since you say that you have been watching "everything on line" ... so any links to what you have watched?.  One thing I notice on one of the hand crafted circuit diagram is that the actuaters appear to have one lead connected to earth. I think you will find that the two wires to the actuator are meant to be used as reverse polarity inputs. That is to say current through in one direction will lock and then reverse direction for unlock. So in the diagram showing a lead to earth the actuators are only going to operate to lock or unlock but not both, and judging by the written comment it looks like they only unlock.

Posted

Hi, 

All unbranded items as from e-bay and  wish.

My issue is that when I press lock and the actuator recedes, I press the push button and the actuator opens again. 

I had success using the RF transmitter as I could press lock on the remote and it locks even if I pressed the push button, the actuator stayed locked! My issue on this one was trying to add the 2nd push button. Could not get that to work at all.

Posted (edited)

So are they using the standard MR2 motors, or have they removed them for the universal? I've fitted 3 of those kits & always managed to get them to work, but some times they do take a lot of fiddling with 

Edited by phaeton
Posted

Problem is they are all different, the Shogun all I did was fit the unit in the back door, it was a simple matter of getting a permanent 12V there, then working out which was the 12V pulse to open & 12V pulse to close. The Jimny was a bit more work as you had to interrupt the switch on the drivers door lock otherwise you could only get it to lock or unlock can't remember which way. When I put it on the GTM K3 there was no CL existing unit & it fitted straight in.

But looking at your wiring diagram it doesn't make sense, the CL unit is only controlling 1 unit, which in turn controls the other unit, but in your hand drawn diagram you appear to be trying to control each separately?

Posted (edited)

I have a cunning plan. Would you go along with the idea of concentrating on each of the bits of kit in turn and in isolation?. The aim would be to deduce what each device is capable of, what function each of the connectors serves, and whether or not each device is working correctly. Then armed with this knowledge we should be able to work out a wiring diagram to achieve what you want to do, within the limits of the devices of course. This would mean you doing all sorts of tests using a multi-meter and reporting the results, which may in turn suggest further tests. I don't know how "electrics" savvy you are, so you might have to put up with what might seem patronizing questions occasionally. If you'd like to give it a go, then the first question is simple, will you list all the devices that you believe are involved in this project, I mean everything that has wires going to it or connectors on, for example "2 actuators, 1 push button, 1 key fob", don't include anything that you have added, as they might be red herrings. Oh and yes I assume you have a multi-meter, capable of measuring DC voltage in the 0-20V range and resistance in the 0-2K ohm range, if it also has an audible continuity function so much the better.

Edited by Sparepart
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