nelmo

You're putting it up for bidding - by definition, it will be worth whatever the highest bid is. Start it at the lowest you're prepared to accept and job done...

As to uniqueness, I did some maths the last time this topic came up: "You can just specify anything you want - to bore you with maths, there are 34^17 (assuming no letters I and O) possible combinations of numbers, which is about 100 million, million, million, million (1 followed by 26 zeroes)! That means every person on the planet could have 15,000 million million unique VIN numbers each So not much chance of getting a duplicate " https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/49660-documentation-and-vin-plates/&do=findComment&comment=405489

Not only can you just ask for it at any time (email the DVLA), you can also make up your own VIN. I wish I had known that, could have made something more interesting. BTW, this and many other questions have been asked many times before - worth doing a search before asking just to save you the 8 hour wait for an answer.

It was done while sitting on the bog Bottom half is the original circuit (I've always had a hidden switch in the starter circuit), top half is the new one. It actually runs from that 2nd pink wire, not the ignition directly, but electrically the same. The box top right is that panel with switch and button on it. If you could send me the economy map, that would be cool. I'll pm my email...

Very proud of the final result - the panel I bought included an on/off switch for the starter button, so i could use a much simpler circuit than suggested here (details in my blog) . Looks great and works a treat:

You were right in your PM - it was connected to 12v so I have used it and it works brilliantly - details in my blog... (once I've updated it).

Ha - called GBS - seems that 2nd pink wire is useless - they're not even sure where it goes (they don't make the looms themselves). Wonderful...

When the key is turned against the spring to power the starter motor, didn't that originally effectively switch off the power to everything else (headlights, accessories etc)? If I use the above circuit (or similar), is it a problem if that doesn't get done (I'm assuming it won't be)?

Very annoying that GBS decided to switch off the GBS Owners Club forum - this question was asked and answered on there loads of times The GBS main loom had 2 pink wires, one for the starter motor and the other was, I think, labelled 'starter button'? I never used it but I am now planning on adding a starter button - does anyone know if this 2nd pink wire is basically just a duplicate of the first ie. goes to the 12v feed of the starter motor?

Ha, that's embarrassing - just looked at my wiring schematic for my car and I do indeed have an alternator light but I don't recall ever seeing it lit . It's connected to pin 3 of the dash plug from the GBS main loom so not sure what's happening there. Most likely, as the light is an LED, I've wired it the wrong way round

Sounds plausible, many thanks guys. Only thing is I don't think I have an ignition light (sitting in my lounge, I can't remember what my dash has) but I guess just the exciter wire to the alternator? I had a thought to do it from the handbrake wire - but not as good as the alternator, certainly. Having said that, I have since seen a nice carbon fibre starter panel, with a switch under one of those fighter plane-style protectors which enables the starter button. A faff to start the engine but will look cool... I'll have a think.

I'm considering putting a starter button in my car but I was wondering if anyone knows how to wire it so it won't do anything if pressed with the engine already on? My horn and headlight flash button are on the same aux panel as I plan to put the starter button and I can see myself pressing the starter button by mistake.

Double echo Sparepart - that is great advice and a really good way to find out more Not only did I do A-level Physics, I also did Electrical and Electronic Engineering at Uni - and I'm still rubbish at electrics . I was only interested in the computer programming bits of my course, in my defence and I only started building my car 25 years after graduation, so my knowledge was a bit patchy (and it shows in my car ).

Depends on your definition of 'basic skills' and how big your wallet is. Bottom line - no engine change is easy, especially when you're changing the engine type like you are. The most common ECU we use is Emerald but it 'aint cheap - around £750. There are others but fairly similar price, I think. Very rare to see them come up 2nd hand... When you say a wiring harness, is that just for the engine and the standard harness? I literally removed everything from that and just used the existing injectors wiring, along with the long, thin black case (see my blog for details: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2016/02/inching-on.html ). I'm not familiar with the EFi engine - is the exhaust on the same side? You will probably have to re-do the engine mounts. What gearbox do you have? For Zetec, need a type 9 or MT75 - anything else will require some extra customisation, if it is possible. Probably lots of other stuff - good luck!

Yeah, gave it a few whacks with the rubber mallet - no joy. An online video showed one guy de-soldering the main pins to get the other end off but even he had other screws to undo. I guess it's the heat that has caused the problem? Although the motor is down the bottom of the engine, a decent distance from the exhaust manifold and in a bit of airflow coming under the car. Might try some sort of heatshield/wrap for the next one.... Any recommendations for a starter motor?

You'd think there'd be a screw there but no... What are my chances of improving the solenoid? The whole thing is only 2 years old - what could have caused it to get sticky in the first place and is there anything I will be able to do to prevent it happening again in 6 months time?

I'm having some starting problems and cleverer people than me told me it is a sticking starter motor solenoid and I should be able to strip and clean it up. However, I've taken it off today and I cannot see how to get the solenoid apart. It is a RTX model and I have removed the one screw that seems to be involved but I cannot get the body off, even with a mallet. Pics in this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/z9ymMNQqWdDvkz469 Any ideas or is this a sealed unit and all I can do is get a new motor?

There are probably books you can buy (I know there is an advert for one in CKC magazine) but no idea how good they are. Personally, I was lucky enough to get a lot of initial help from a guy who used to work at GBS - I think he enjoyed the electrics side so was happy to help. After that, it was just a matter of joining wires. It also helped having the main loom from GBS and I only had to make up my own dash and engine loom myself. Be aware that, IMO, electrics are the single most troublesome part of a kit so if you're buying, try get something that looks good and works. With wiring, 'good' means well covered (tape, conduit) wires, firmly clipped/cable tied (so not free to vibrate loose) and sensibly routed (away from heat sources etc). Look at pics of factory build cars - as close to that as you can.

1038kg?! That can't be right, surely? At IVA, my Zero was weighed at 620kg although that was without the windscreen and wiper bits.

...and me...

Only right and fair... I've just been at the British motor show at Farnborough today and I'm pretty sure that black Lambo was there: Truly evil car from all angles...

Sounds like something I'd do - just goes to show how good IVA is..

Someone used that Trackace on my car in a pub car park - worked a treat! Not sure why it would need underfloor clearance - I don't recall any part going below the car?

My knackered bearings made a knocking noise but it's a Zetec so maybe different to a Pinto?

Urghhhh, I'm having flashbacks.... I spent 3 months trying to diagnose and fix an engine rattle. I was told on day one by someone on here it was big-end bearings but I thought that was a huge, engine out job to fix, so I looked desperately for another answer. Wasted 3 months - it was the bearings and it took a day to fix. Not saying yours is the same but feel free to read the whole sorry tale on my blog, starting here: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2018/05/death-rattle.html Some tests you can do here (test no. 3 was the clincher for me): https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2018/08/not-under-pressure.html Fixing it is only half the problem - you need to find the cause otherwise it will just happen again. If it is the bearings, as someone said, you need to check your oil pressure as too low is most likely the cause.