nelmo

Yeah, electrical problems like that are a pain for anyone to help you with - our cars are all wired up differently. Glad you got it sorted

Just back from a 5-day trip to Wales with a local kit car club, although my trip sadly ended early - full details here HUGE thanks go to club secretary and engineering wizard @richyb66, for saving my bacon and fixing my car and Jackie for feeding me bacon

Should you be interested, I managed to re-use the plastic piece I hacked off - I rotated it round so it points down, not up and then trimmed even more off the other piece (if you've seen the part, you'll know what I mean) and it works brilliantly. Obviously, I screwed my ECU settings (see other panic post) but all good now - thanks for your suggestions.

FFS - ok, panic over, all sorted. It seems that the ECU wasn't saving the TPS settings or I was somehow doing it wrong. After the last engine run, I noticed that it showed only 30% travel (in the Emerald software) when I was almost at full throttle. So I did one last reset and I had to come in to do some work. Went back out after work and started straight up, idling as normal. I dunno - might go again, probably at 4am when I need to leave for Wales Thank you all for your suggestions

I did 2 jobs; throttle cable and cleaned out fuel filter - after that, my problems started. The fuel filter is one of those glass ones with a plastic insert. First time, I took it apart (it is designed to be washable) and replaced the plastic bit with a new plastic piece from a second new filter I have. After my problems, I wondered if that plastic insert was different in some way and causing a problem, so I took it out, so there is no actual filter in the body of the filter, if that makes sense. I THINK I was very careful to make sure no crud got in it - it still looks very clear now.

I disconnected the cable at the pedal end (just easier to get to) and used the throttle body. I've also effectively removed the fuel filter (took the plastic bit out the middle) and car will idle, just. Initially, just at 700 rpm, eventually, as it warms up, up to almost normal 950 (why the increase as it warms up?). But, if I apply light throttle, the revs drop and the car will stall. Bigger throttle inputs and it revs ok, although hesitantly initially but will settle down at 3k rpm. If I turn it off for a couple of minutes, it takes ages to start (my previous hot-start issue).

Ahh, thats a very good point. I know I have to do that but I don't use the software that often and I was in a bit of a panic, trying to keep the engine running and fiddling with the laptop at the same time - maybe that's all that was (which is a good thing - ECUs aren't cheap). Would also explain why it made no difference when I did load it... I've ordered a new HP fuel pump anyway because I have been having some hot-starting problems, which is why I cleaned out the fuel filter but it may be the pump at fault? Worth a shot... My battery is also a little low on charge but would that b

Yeah, I did try enabling and disabling that and changed the values - no obvious difference. Like you say, the weirdest thing is how the map got cleared - worried I've trashed the ECU somehow

Thanks, I'll check that but I'd imagine it would just idle higher, no? It's running like a dog and won't idle until up to temperature at the moment.

Sorry to be panicky but I'm supposed to be going to Wales at the weekend for 5 days and I've just ruined my car!! All I did was re-jig the throttle cable at the body end (if you saw my other post) and now it won't run properly. I haven't changed the length of the cable or anything else, just found a way to stop it dropping out the slot. I did also clean out the HP fuel filter - it's clear so I can see fuel going through it. I started up and car wouldn't run without a decent amount of throttle. I had the Emerald software up and it showed nothing in the map! (I have had a trickle charg

That's what GBS tell you to do and what I did for the 1st cable and this one - the problem is that the metal piece in my first pic was shorter on the old cable so it was ok. Now, even trimming the plastic down isn't enough.

Thanks guys - might try that Rich... Maca, I'm not worried about the cable snapping again (I know why it happened). Unfortunately, I've trimmed the cable to the exact length, so I have no free length to play with (unless I buy a new cable). So I just need a way to keep it secure and running freely at the throttle body end. My bodged attempt so far keeps un-hooking itself...

My throttle cable snapped (Zetec blacktop) recently and I bought a new one from GBS. When I came to fit it, it seems to have changed - below is a pic of roughly the throttle body I have (that is not mine - its a random pic off the internet) and, on the new cable, that yellow bit is longer, as shown by the red extension I've drawn on: This means I have much less travel than before. I have tried fixing (read 'hacked to pieces') the plastic end on the right of that pic to get more space but it hasn't worked. I thought about trimming down that yellow bit (on mine, it is metal) but

Looks like you all had a great time which, unfortunately, I couldn't make. Are there any budding writers out there who could produce a report for the club magazine on the weekends events? Doesn't have to be too long or Shakespeare... Please email to magazine@rhocar.org if you can... TIA.

Yeah, I got stopped by the police on the way - showed them the emails from IVA and insurance company and they were fine... A trailer may be a good idea but, for me, it was my first excuse to drive the car any decent distance (as opposed to up and down my road) and see if anything dropped off. As it happened, the heat from the drive caused the accelerator pedal to expand and get stuck on (2 miles from the test centre)! Spent the first 10 minutes of my test loosening it

Sorry, not clear which is the problem; the manifold itself or just the silencer/cat body? I had a similar problem with my silencer because I wanted the tailpipe to point down. But that way, the silencer wouldn't get anywhere near the support bracket. I just rotated the silencer so the tailpipe was horizontal (parallel to the ground) and it then fitted right, with about a 10mm gap between silencer and side panel. https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2016/08/exhausted.html IVA next week and you haven't got the silencer on yet? Very brave...

Yeah, if its on the front, it needs to push air through. Just reverse the wires...

Holy cow, that's a great idea! I've just refitted a new cable (the old one snapped) and I've got even less travel than before. I've been trying to think how to improve it and that seems a great idea. Sorry, I'm not helping you but can't see a problem with it being that way round.

I put armrests in my doors (it's a Caterham option, I believe) and it works brilliantly, although I do still get a little from where I didn't go quite far back enough: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2018/12/a-call-to-arms.html I do get a few drips through the door gaps and, yes, I forgot about a bit of spray from the rear in very bad conditions. I guess if you found it a problem, a mesh wind deflector at the back may be needed.

If you tested the wiring, what are you going to find if you take the loom out? And can you take the loom out? I'd have to dismantle my car to do that

I have a half-hood (Surrey top) and full length doors and, as Rich says, it keeps out 95% of rain, even at motorway speeds . With a half hood, there's enough airflow to make condensation a minor issue. I keep a chamois-on-a-stick in the passenger footwell for the odd occasion I need to wipe the screen (normally only in hot weather and rain which is a pretty rare combination in this country). I got my roof from Softbits and it is made to measure, so I'm sure they can accommodate hoops. In normal times, I do a 20 minute commute to work in all weather's, although not on the motorway, s

That's a shame - lack of advertising I guess? The cafe owner probably shut up early when he realised no-one was coming.

Phew, I don't envy you that at all - that's more of a restoration than a build . Is that engine OK? It looks like a museum piece

One of my (many) problems discovered while trying to fix my misfire was the wiring to the alternator - at one point, one of the wires dropped out of a spade terminal. However, not sure that would be the cause of a misfire - you'll just kill the battery. At idle, my battery gets about 13v and up to 14.2v when driving with revs. Too much is as bad as too little and 14.5v sounds a bit high (what I have discovered is that 0.1v is quite a lot in battery-speak ).

I made up some flat sheets, moulded round the support and then copious amounts of the panel gunk that GBS sell (same as Silkaflex?). First time I did this, I used light mesh which wasn't strong enough and one of my arches flew off after about a year, which is when I re-did it using ally sheet. Details in my blog here: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2018/03/underneath-arches-again.html