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Everything posted by nelmo

  1. Sort of depends on how handy you are - done any car work before? Restoring an old kit is much harder than just starting from scratch; corroded parts, a completely unknown electrical system etc. £700 sounds pretty cheap to me - I paid more than that for just my gearbox...depends on the condition and how much work it will need. Got any pics?
  2. Sadly, the time has come to part with my kit car - full details in the eBay listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176393840355?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JCyq5FiWQmK&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=JCyq5FiWQmK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL
  3. Have you tried Kit Spares/GBS? Pretty sure they still sell the proper panels for a 2B?
  4. I'll repeat what I said on your FB post; having a screen without wipers is worse than no screen at all. So you might pass your MOT but if you dont/can't fit wipers (you don't need demisters, I've got through MOTs without them), then leave the screen off and fit an aero screen and wear a helmet. My wipers stopped working on a day out when it started raining and I couldn't see a thing, I literally had to lean out the car to see. You'd think the airflow would blow the water off a little but I think because our screens are flat, that just doesn't happen.
  5. Need more detail; what engine, when does the noise happen (at idle, revving etc), does it change as you rev? I had something like that a few years back - this post below lists some tests that will help: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2018/08/not-under-pressure.html
  6. Unless I've got the scale wrong, that is tiny - wouldn't stop a go-kart
  7. Ah man, that is a BEAUTIFUL part of the world to have a kit car in - I did an RV tour around BC back in 1997 and we went through Revelstoke....awesome area! BUT... putting an electric motor in a kit car (or any car)?! Sacrilege...don't do it....
  8. I've got the GBS remote oil reservoir (similar thing) and I did use the Eazebleed system but it was hardly necessary - I could have easily done it by simply pumping the brake pedal by hand. What was useful from the Eazebleed system is a short pipe with a one-way valve on it. Attach that to each bleed nipple in turn and just pump the brake pedal until fluid runs clear without bubbles. Repeat for the other 3 calipers. My system has been like that for 7 years and 22k miles without any hassle (although it sadly doesn't look as clean and shiny now ).
  9. Yes, I have to agree - Mazda a much better engine and the gearbox is particularly good - far better than the Type 9 or MT75 that Ford's use. However, it's always going to be tricky on a tight budget and, personally, I would hate to have to start with someone else's half-finished project. I guess suggesting you buy a 2nd hand chassis (often come up on eBay etc) and start from scratch is a non-starter? You could re-use anything decent on the S7 (suspension, brakes etc?) but then you get a modern chassis and you can re-do everything the way you want it?
  10. You were going to powder coat stainless steel? Is that even possible? Or is that way to effectively paint it? Surely that can be straightened out? If not by them, they should pay for someone else to. Best bet is to call Kit Spares - they may be able to help.
  11. nelmo

    Spring 2024 magazine

    Got mine - works well for me
  12. Nice one - I haven't done that run for a couple of years now but I remember that Alfa Montreal - he still has those horrendous, modern black wheels on it!
  13. Get the wheel alignment done - I had zero re-centering before I had mine done and only just squeezed through IVA due to a very kind tester. Not dangerous really, just ruins your tyres quicker. Unfortunately, most normal alignment places won't be able to do a kit because their equipment won't fit under the wheelarches. I had a mate with one of those home laser alignment tools - did mine in a pub car park one evening
  14. nelmo

    SVA/IVA or not?

    Yes, I did think that was possible but I wasn't sure...
  15. nelmo

    SVA/IVA or not?

    No, if the V5 looks OK, no need for an IVA (SVA is the old system that IVA replaced). Only needs a new IVA if you change the chassis/body in some way - changing the engine is fine but you need to tell the DVLA because it may affect what emissions you need to be tested for at MOT time. Engine number is irrelevant these days - mine is blank because my engine was brand new from the warehouse and they don't stamp codes on them until they get to the factory.
  16. Darn, booked up that weekend, looks fun...
  17. Where are you, Paul? I'm in Reigate... I'm the area sec for the SE but it's been hard to get anyone out - we had a couple of meets last year but even then, I was the only one with a working kit . The weather is improving, so I'll try arrange something soon...
  18. Are you sure you called the right place - not GBS, GBC: https://www.facebook.com/GBC.Autos.Tamworth/?locale=en_GB
  19. Why on earth would you do that? Most people convert TO FI, not the other way round Sounds to me like you're not running on all cylinders ( I mean the engine but I'm not sure about you either ). Check you're getting a spark to all cylinders? And carb setup but I know nothing about carbs...
  20. Do you know roughly what needs doing? Could it be driven to an IVA test? Might be worth taking it, failing but getting a list of fail points so you can show it to someone and they can quote you to fix it. An IVA retest is only £95. Richy on here runs a garage called GBC (?) Autos in Tadworth. Give him a list and he should be able to give you a quote.
  21. A seal will only work well if both mating surfaces are flat and smooth - I'm guessing yours aren't? Probably why there is sealant there from before? Not sure if you can get petrol resistant sealant but that seems to be the way forward?
  22. I got mine done at this place: https://www.varatechnik.com/ ....when John Lamsley worked there (ex-Emerald employee) but I'm not sure if he still works there (he's not listed on the website). John has a FB group called 'Emerald ECU tuning tips and advice' - you can ask him on there where he works? EDIT: ah sorry, just realised you said 'Herefordshire' - I read it as 'Hertfordshire'
  23. I have no experience of Pinto engines, I'm afraid. My Zetec starts off very high when cold (700+ kPa) and then settles to around 3-400 when up to temp, which I believe is normal for a Zetec...
  24. Looks very good - my blacktop Zetec is like that at idle and I always thought the Pinto's were supposed to be lower? As an England fan, damn right - I was worried about the wooden spoon for us before the start. Beating Ireland was miraculous! Really good competition this year - so many unexpected results (except for Ireland, of course)...looking forward to the Autumn Internationals because I'd imagine we'll get hammered by the SH teams - but need to play those games to improve... I'd be interested to know what you guys thought of the 6N - some of the Welsh play, for example, was downright embarrasing last weekend
  25. Pull the HT leads one at a time - if the knocking stops, you know its the engine and which cylinder.
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