nelmo

I'm guessing you mean rounds 7 and 8 will be this weekend on July 20th and 21st?

Damn, that is sad, especially in the Midlands where so many of our members are. This is part of the reason why I recently sold my kit - there is no-one down South who seems interested in meeting up. I don't mind driving on my own but, occasionally, it would be good to meet others. I regularly see kit cars out on their own but they are mostly Caterham's who probably wouldn't be on here anyway. TBF, it's pretty much always been like that down here - sad to see it spreading up north though.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/trackace-laser-wheel-alignment-gauge-t-atag01/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptrpaqqq&istBid=t&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aDyfa30Sef_crhBZZOvfLMyD8z4CPXuhd5v6qMwZVYn4Yoq8Dyjo7hoCJVMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Gone up, £90 now...

Has it got normal tie rods ie. they're on a threaded arm? If so, just try get a proper alignment (and no, you can't do it by eye). Two methods; a dubious process using string and long pieces of wood (do a search on here) and better is to find someone with one of those home laser alignment kits (or buy your own - about £70 I think).

I believe this is quite common and is about Ackerman geometry that a car uses to go round corners. I don't understand the tech stuff but Wikipedia says this: Modern cars do not use pure Ackermann steering, partly because it ignores important dynamic and compliant effects, but the principle is sound for low-speed manoeuvres. Some race cars use reverse Ackermann geometry to compensate for the large difference in slip angle between the inner and outer front tyres while cornering at high speed. The use of such geometry helps reduce tyre temperatures during high-speed cornering but compromises performance in low-speed maneuvers. On other forums, someone said a wheel alignment fixed it for them? Also: THIS is why our tires shuffle sideways in low speed parking maneuvers. The colder or more worn the tire the more noticeable it is because there is less compliance in the tread. Check age/state of tyres?

Nooo - how are they going to train the dogs now?

actually, I bought my replacement toy back in October (19 year old Porsche Boxster) - I've been agonising over this decision ever since...didn't expect it to sell so quick tbh. I was sort of hoping it wouldn't sell and I'd be forced to keep it

Yup, Steve - many thanks for pointing him in my direction Keith - although, I'll be honest, right now, I'm feeling a bit low...not sure if I've done the right thing.

SOLD

Wowsers - was that recent?

I assume that is a typo and 'should' was supposed to be 'shouldn't'?

I don't think size is a problem (ooo-errr ) - mine is from a Polo and is smaller than yours is now.

Is your coolant overflowing from the header tank when it gets hot? I had that happen on my Zetec (which is setup like yours) and the problem for me was the cap on the header tank - it wasn't holding in the pressure, allowing the overflow. I just replaced the cap (£7) and it has been fine since. It could, as you say, be an airlock but if your header tank is the highest point of the system (it should be), then less likely to be that.

I'm sure there are sites that will tell you if your car will need e10 or e5. You'll have to put in the details of the donor for your kit (eg. Ford Sierra) because they wontbhave kits in the list. If you don't know the donor, I'd suggest finding a model of car that had your engine, roughly, and use that. Having said that, I'm fairly sure that any Ford engine before 2000 or so really needs e5 but don't quote me.

Kit spares: https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/all/products/robin-hood-front-wing-bracket-et35-os

Good work - glad we could all help I've said before, electrics are normally the thing you have to struggle through on your own...

Living in the Highlands will be your biggest issue but the market has never been very active. I've had mine up for a couple of weeks and not a single call Back in the day, kits had amazing performance - nowadays, many warm hatches can match them and they are getting old enough to cost the same amount as a kit. And of course, those pesky MX5s are down to £3k-5k. Tough competition...

I sometimes feel this sub-forum is pointless for kits - most kits have a completely unique electrical system and it's almost impossible to help remotely. My wiring loom is half of the GBS system and half my own design - no-one is going to work it out Having said that, a halogen and LED in the same unit? Don't LEDs use a lower voltage, so they should be on separate circuits? Also, LEDs are polarity sensitive- maybe 12v in the wrong polarity is keeping the LEDs on and preventing the halogen coming on? Dunno, I would get a multimeter on the wires and see what voltages you're getting...

Actually, you just need to keep an eye out for any runs, which are normally advertised on here in the 'Events' sub-forum. Some area secs may have started a WhatsApp group or will email but I think most just use forum posts.

Looking good - you should get yourself to the Malvern kit car show this weekend, that would be a fun run.

Aaahhhh, that makes sense, phew Mine is mounted outside the chassis (Zero) - if yours could be mounted outside the chassis, it could probably go the right way round. But I can understand why it works, shouldn't make any difference if it's rotated or not (the top input is still at a high point of the rad for airlock prevention). You definitely don't want the fan sucking air out as it would be competing with the normal airflow - you want to add to the existing airflow, not fight it. I've never heard of anyone doing that on purpose - when I first wired mine up, it was going the wrong way (50/50 guess on the fan wiring and I got the wrong one).

Sideways?! Over a hundred years of car design really suggests that 'at the front in the airflow' is best - surely you're going to have lots of heat problems? If you have to, it doesn't matter where you put the fan because you can get it to push or pull just by changing the wires to the motor. Whichever way, you want cold air blown over the rad IMO, so air from the outside pushed into the engine bay, I would say.

I have a similar setup but I bought the main GBS loom, so I don't know where those 3 smaller wires go to exactly. One thing I will warn you of, in case you haven't done this already; disconnect the battery before going anywhere near that thick wire. My first alternator died and I almost electrocuted myself trying to take that big wire off without disconnecting the battery. As it was, I literally burnt a groove in the old alternator body as I dragged that wire off the post- acted like an arc welder - scared the crap out of me

Sort of depends on how handy you are - done any car work before? Restoring an old kit is much harder than just starting from scratch; corroded parts, a completely unknown electrical system etc. £700 sounds pretty cheap to me - I paid more than that for just my gearbox...depends on the condition and how much work it will need. Got any pics?

Sadly, the time has come to part with my kit car - full details in the eBay listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176393840355?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JCyq5FiWQmK&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=JCyq5FiWQmK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL