nelmo

it's funny you say that - my loom is crimped everywhere because I asked on here before I started wiring it up and I got 3 pages of replies! The responses were 50/50 so I went crimp because I cannot solder to save my life. But on the way back from Stoneleigh, my alternator stopped charging (voltmeter dropped to 11v) and it was because one of my crimped connections had simply separated. I got it going again using gaffer tape and when I got home, I soldered the connection instead and started worrying about all the other crimped connections I have. Loose plugs is more of the problem, I think - every connection should be clipped to something solid before and after the plug and then it probably wouldn't matter whether crimped or soldered. Too late for me - any new builders, save yourselves now!!

Yeah, the guys at GBS said that too me numerous times - half the battle, they reckoned. For me, my tester was most impressed by my use of paint on the nuts, to check for movement. He seemed to think that meant I knew what I was doing (I didn't)

There's software in a fuel gauge? Surely they are all just a bit of basic voltage-sensing electronics? Software suggests a chip, transformer to get from 12v to 5v etc, etc...

Yes, trim needed on cycle wings - I just used the thick edge trim supplied by GBS. Does it say that in the manual? Unless it's changed in the last 2 years since my IVA, just the steering lock is enough (although even that wasn't checked during my IVA).

Emigrate?! Well done - I would just like to have a patch like yours in Hampshire - moving from one great place to another. Taking the boat to France? Is that the steam-driven thing (excuse my ignorance)? Can that go across the Channel?

I did have NGK and I've put them back but no difference. I haven't changed the map on purpose BUT I did start up the Emerald software to use the datalogger - wonder if I changed something by mistake? But I would have had to consciously save it, so I doubt it... I didn't touch the injectors Bob - but I had a misfire which seemed to resolve itself by just leaving the engine to idle for 10 minutes. The only other thing I have noticed is that the engine is running 5 -7 degrees hotter than before I changed all the leads etc. (and not just because of the warmer weather), if that means anything?

Yeah, I put the original coil pack and HT leads back - no difference. I haven't got the original plugs but they were 10 years old (from the crated engine) so doubt they were ever at their best. It seems to be temperature related - first thing in the morning is worst. This evening, it finally started after much cranking and, once the engine was warmer, started immediately after switching off (did it a few times). What the heck does that mean? (FI so no carb icing to worry about ). Edit: ah hold on, maybe some sort of air leak into the plenum which closes up when the engine warms up and expands? Is that plausible or utter rubbish?

I recently changed coil pack, HT leads and plugs (to try cure what turned out to be an injector problem). Ever since, I'm getting intermittent starting problems - the engine turns, I'm getting fuel through (I can smell it eventually and I've taken the fuel system apart to confirm all the pumps work and filters are not blocked) but it just won't fire. It fortunately only seems to be a problem when trying to start up first thing in the morning (so I've not been left stranded anywhere yet). When it does start, it drives fine (no misfires, stuttering, pops or bangs etc) and when I come to start up to come home from work, it's no problem either, although a bit more hesitant than it used to be before the new bits. Battery is fine (12.4v before starting) and I've just tried another set of plugs as the first set were put in by the AA and were all he had in his van at the time. The new set (from Halfords, one of the 4-prong jobs) don't seem to have made any difference one way or the other. I bought these HT leads - could they be the problem? Are they known to be rubbish? I also got this coil pack - again, ok? This is for a 2004/5 2L Blacktop Zetec, FI. Any help appreciated - I'm supposed to be going to Goodwood tomorrow - don't want to have to go in the tin top...

Really?! Is this like the 'no petrol engined cars by 2040' promise ie. *bleep*s? ! Will be interesting to see how our National Grid (already at 95% capacity or something) handles that, considering it seems to take them 20 years to build a single power station.

Great to hear - sadly, I'm doing badly, only having got to one about 5 miles down the road. I had planned to spend an extra day in Wales after my track day in May, with a list of 10 or so to do but a breakdown stopped that. Must do better...

Just give up on it and get a GPS speedo - I'm in the process of doing that (although it seems to be my gauge that's died, sensor is fine).

Identical to mine - good choice

Should you ever use rubber for brake lines? Won't they swell with the hydraulic force, losing your braking force? If that's not a problem and you mean the exposed brake hose to the caliper, it's probably recommended to have it braided. Exposed to the elements, you don't want a stone cutting the pipe and losing all your brakes

Ah, that's interesting because mine has never worked and I was wondering how strict they would be about it - guess it depends on the garage?

It's a bit of a vague question - did the 2B come with a build manual? I know my Zero did not - I relied on reading lots of blogs from other builders and talking to the factory. You could try asking GBS (they took over Robin Hood) - I know they have a factory build order for the Zero because they sent it to me (can't find it now).