nelmo

Sorry, yeah, I always forget the details...2L Zetec with FI. Looked around the diff area with the engine running and all looks fine - no leak, no signs of an old leak, all pipes and joins dry and no obvious smell after the engines been run for a while. Now, I did notice the HP fuel lines seem to have some slight cracks in them on a couple of the bends (FFS, 2 years old and R9 lines!! ) but there's no obvious leak or smell from them? I guess the smell could build up from them while the car is still maybe?

I definitely used those metal inserts but I must admit, I haven't checked the pipes round the diff as much as I could. But if it was a proper leak, I assumed I'd smell petrol all the time, even when I first opened the garage door?

I use my kit a lot, normally commuting to work most days. However, I find if I leave it for a week or more, when I next start up, there is a very strong petrol smell for the first 5 minutes of my journey. I can't see any leaks, all my fuel lines are pretty new and are RJ9 (sorry, can't remember the exact code but the latest stuff). Smelling my oil cap, it does smell a bit petrolly but not sure if it's exceptional. Any ideas?

Hmm, no link on there to their forum, which is sad and a serious oversight IMHO - the forum was invaluable to me when I was building and a USP of GBS. Sadly, it has been useless since Simon stopped working at GBS. He popped on their for a while afterwards but it has pretty much died a death. Just having to rely on phone support when building would be a real pain. I was speaking to Richard at Stoneleigh and he was saying that lots of their new buyers (mainly from the US) want the entire kit in one crate and are happy to pay more - many are buying all the blingy ATR stuff they sell and are paying £30k+ . So expect that Auriga (great name) to be expensive. I think GBS have a rosy looking future (in the US at least).

The Rainex never worked for me, I think because it's designed to allow water to slide off with the airflow but our screens are flat, so you don't get any airflow pushing the water off (well, I dont). The easiest way to swap the wipers over is just to buy new arms that face the other way - that's what I did . You will need 'right park' arms: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/stainless-steel-adjustable-right-park-wiper-arm

I hope I haven't put you off . When I built mine, I was also a complete novice - try reading the first few entries of my build blog (link in my sig below) and I've also got a page on there entitled 'So you want to build a kit car' which you may find useful.

Hi, do you not still have the magazine? There are 2 possible meets although i have no idea if they still actually happen: 1st Wed of every month, Helsby Arms, Helsby, WA6 0JE (however, can't see that pub on Google Maps any more, maybe the Hornsmill? ). You could try call Stephen Percival (07880 538343) who is down as the organiser? 2nd to last Sunday of the month, Phantom Winger, Broughton, Preston, PR3 5JE (no contact details). Hope that helps.

Never heard of anyone using that engine which means you will be breaking new ground and have very few people to help you. If you were more experienced, I'm sure you'd be okay but as a novice, stick with the MX5 route. Lots of people have used them , nice and cheap (I can imagine the price of MB spares) and you'll have loads of people able to help when you need it. Trying to squeeze the supercharger in would be a nightmare for starters Also, don't discount the Ford route - you don't need to buy a donor, you can just buy the bits you need. Lots of Zetec engines, MT75 gearboxes, suspension parts etc available on eBay or from GBS if you've got enough cash. Even more people with Fords so lots of help and they are arguably simpler engines - the MX5 had loads of variants, some with VVT, some without, 1.6 to 2.0l engines - very confusing

Hi Mike, sorry to hear you had problems - is it just as simple as gravel or something in the bell housing? I remember you said you don't have a dirt shield between engine and gearbox (like me), so maybe just got some crud in there? Otherwise, that's about the limit of my knowledge

This was me 5 minutes before my test was due to start: It was the hottest day of the year (32 degC), I'd just driven through 2 hours of London rush hour traffic, been pulled by the cops for no plate and then, 2 miles from the centre, the heat expanded my throttle pedal pivot bar so that it wouldn't return to off, so engine revving at 3k rpm!! Now THAT is stress !!

Hmmm, weird... my MT75 doesn't like going into 1st if I'm moving at anything above a snail's pace so I often end up pulling away in 2nd (luckily, engine torque with so little weight has no problem with that) but not had any heat-related issues.

Always avoid motorways - not what kits are for

No rule as such, as high as you can get it

Love that steering wheel - would love to have one like that but I wouldn't fit in the car if I had one that size

I know what you mean - I did electrical and electronic engineering at uni years ago and electrics still confuse me. I fitted a new USB socket recently and ever since then, my voltmeter gauge has been under-reading. Then, today, I plugged my mobile phone in to the USB and the voltmeter suddenly reads correctly!