nelmo

If you have a LP pump, you must have a swirl pot, no? Or is that built into the tank on a Mazda? (I have a Ford). I can't hear my LP pump either, except when low on fuel and it starts struggling. The Emerald ECU only runs the pumps for a few seconds if you just put the ignition on and then switches them off if it does not detect any attempt to start the engine. Maybe your ECU does the same, so by the time you go to measure the voltage, the pump is already off, hence 0v? If the engine is starting and running, the LP pump must be working otherwise how is petrol getting to the swirl pot? Can

Hi Nick, welcome to the club! Before you buy anything, please consider your experience and what you want from the car. Kit cars are great fun, they can be fast and they are very back-to-basics. However, they are mostly built by amateurs and while some of us are aircraft engineers and will do a very good job, kit cars are generally unreliable and will need you to get your hands dirty at some point (unless you can afford to take it to a garage every time it breaks). They are also noisy and uncomfortable - your wife/partner will almost certainly NOT want to go in it very often unless th

Wowsers!!! Yup, that is a bargain for something so new - well done! Enjoy...

Welcome to the club - good looking car - what sort of price, may I ask?

I built my Zero in 2017 and the all-in cost was around £17k. However, I could have made it cheaper - for example, I bought a new, crate engine which, with the lowered sump and re-conditioned MT75 gearbox came in at around £2k. You can buy all that lot second-hand off eBay for probably half that or less. I got most of my stuff from GBS, some from eBay but almost all was new or near to it (reconditioned). Because of that, I also got a new reg plate but if you're happy to go with some older bits, £15k sounds reasonable. Full details, including a cost breakdown, is in my blog (link below

Yeah, electrical problems like that are a pain for anyone to help you with - our cars are all wired up differently. Glad you got it sorted

Just back from a 5-day trip to Wales with a local kit car club, although my trip sadly ended early - full details here HUGE thanks go to club secretary and engineering wizard @richyb66, for saving my bacon and fixing my car and Jackie for feeding me bacon

Should you be interested, I managed to re-use the plastic piece I hacked off - I rotated it round so it points down, not up and then trimmed even more off the other piece (if you've seen the part, you'll know what I mean) and it works brilliantly. Obviously, I screwed my ECU settings (see other panic post) but all good now - thanks for your suggestions.

FFS - ok, panic over, all sorted. It seems that the ECU wasn't saving the TPS settings or I was somehow doing it wrong. After the last engine run, I noticed that it showed only 30% travel (in the Emerald software) when I was almost at full throttle. So I did one last reset and I had to come in to do some work. Went back out after work and started straight up, idling as normal. I dunno - might go again, probably at 4am when I need to leave for Wales Thank you all for your suggestions

I did 2 jobs; throttle cable and cleaned out fuel filter - after that, my problems started. The fuel filter is one of those glass ones with a plastic insert. First time, I took it apart (it is designed to be washable) and replaced the plastic bit with a new plastic piece from a second new filter I have. After my problems, I wondered if that plastic insert was different in some way and causing a problem, so I took it out, so there is no actual filter in the body of the filter, if that makes sense. I THINK I was very careful to make sure no crud got in it - it still looks very clear now.

I disconnected the cable at the pedal end (just easier to get to) and used the throttle body. I've also effectively removed the fuel filter (took the plastic bit out the middle) and car will idle, just. Initially, just at 700 rpm, eventually, as it warms up, up to almost normal 950 (why the increase as it warms up?). But, if I apply light throttle, the revs drop and the car will stall. Bigger throttle inputs and it revs ok, although hesitantly initially but will settle down at 3k rpm. If I turn it off for a couple of minutes, it takes ages to start (my previous hot-start issue).

Ahh, thats a very good point. I know I have to do that but I don't use the software that often and I was in a bit of a panic, trying to keep the engine running and fiddling with the laptop at the same time - maybe that's all that was (which is a good thing - ECUs aren't cheap). Would also explain why it made no difference when I did load it... I've ordered a new HP fuel pump anyway because I have been having some hot-starting problems, which is why I cleaned out the fuel filter but it may be the pump at fault? Worth a shot... My battery is also a little low on charge but would that b

Yeah, I did try enabling and disabling that and changed the values - no obvious difference. Like you say, the weirdest thing is how the map got cleared - worried I've trashed the ECU somehow

Thanks, I'll check that but I'd imagine it would just idle higher, no? It's running like a dog and won't idle until up to temperature at the moment.

Sorry to be panicky but I'm supposed to be going to Wales at the weekend for 5 days and I've just ruined my car!! All I did was re-jig the throttle cable at the body end (if you saw my other post) and now it won't run properly. I haven't changed the length of the cable or anything else, just found a way to stop it dropping out the slot. I did also clean out the HP fuel filter - it's clear so I can see fuel going through it. I started up and car wouldn't run without a decent amount of throttle. I had the Emerald software up and it showed nothing in the map! (I have had a trickle charg