nelmo

I bought a steel strip, took it to a high street key shop and had the VIN number engraved on it. I tried to do it myself with a Dremel and stencil but it didn't work - maybe I had the wrong bits but they were too big for a stencil and my attempts at freehand were un-readable Got a local member from here to weld it on for me. I'd also tried to stamp it on the chassis directly but I literally made no impression and I felt if I hit it any harder, I would have damaged the chassis rail.

There are a few posts in my blog: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2018/03/underneath-arches-again.html Just the way I did it - there are other methods.

Seat width is a real problem - I have the GT chassis for my Zero (probably the widest you can get of any kit chassis?) and I struggled. Bucket seats are fine but anything with padding and especially recliner mechanisms are unlikely to fit. Be very careful when measuring and don't forget to allow for the seatbelt bolts - they stick out a fair way. In the end, I had to pay for Intatrim which are lovely and fit perfectly but £500 a pair

The throttle cable from GBS has a plastic section on the end which has to be trimmed - I obviously didn't take enough off. With the TPS calibrated to the butterfly, pushing the pedal as far as the cable will allow only opens the butterfly 77%, according to the Emerald software. I guess 100% would be nice but since I can happily spin the wheels in the first 3 gears, I'm not too bothered Does the map matter much if I have a wideband lambda? I thought the ECU based everything off that?

ah yes, that's a good call...thanks...

My throttle pedal is not able to open the throttle body (standard Ford part, GBS plenum, Zetec) all the way, due to the way I adapted the throttle cable originally. Never been a problem but I replaced the TPS and I needed to recalibrate the new one in the Emerald software. My question is, should I calibrate by manually turning the throttle body by hand (which will give a wider range) or use the throttle pedal with the shorter range? I've done it using the pedal and the car does feel a little bit jerkier and there seems to be a few more pops from the exhaust but I could be imagining it...

A tad last minute but as all the quarantine requirements have now been removed, I am sneaking off to the Alps for a week on July 19th, with a local German bloke I've been in touch with from the old GBS forum. If anyone is interested in a last minute adventure and would like to join us, drop me a message. Vague plan is: Eurotunnel to Dijon Dijon to Meirengen in Switzerland Meirengen to Albertville in France for 3 days. Albertville back home (returning July 25th).

Ah, right...all good then...

Ask GBS...

I haven't got that and went through IVA fine?

Well done, although a bit of a high idle you've got there and what's the liquid round the spark plugs?

In time-honoured tradition, I finally got round to clearing out my garage and found some bits to sell on. They're all on eBay so it's easier just to go there rather than me repeating all the details here. Links as follows: Headlight units Rear light clusters Seat runners Eazibleed brake bleeding system Front indicators Wing mirrors Faulty speedo

£450 is the normal price for an IVA test? At the moment you can't get through but, normally, they're pretty good in my experience. I argued about my Q plate they gave me initially, sent them through a letter from GBS to show my kit and all parts was new and got a new plate.

Zetec, not Vetec . Is that the OEM Ford exhaust manifold? Never realised you could even re-use that... Procedure I followed here in my blog, if it helps: https://zerolifebuild.blogspot.com/2016/08/a-beating-heart.html