nelmo

Unfortunately, there are very few kit cars with doors and even fewer (any?) with remote locking. That was actually part of the appeal for me when building mine - I didn't want electric gimmicks. Electrics are sadly a real PITA at the best of times and, as you are finding, there are few pro's prepared to work on them because it can take hours with seemingly little progress, which makes it difficult to charge people. I would recommend trying to contact the manufacturer of the remote unit - they are your best bet. Sorry to not be of much help - good luck!

Good blog, well done. I particularly like all the decals - looks great

Fit a screen and you don't need helmet or glasses and you can then get doors and a roof so it is semi-practical all year round. After years on bikes, I never wanted a car that needed a helmet. Also, having doors does put people off just leaning in and releasing the handbrake - I've watched people looking very confusedly at my doors I fitted a switch in the ignition circuit (in plain view on my dash but labelled as a fan ) so even if you had the key, it wouldn't start if the switch wasn't pushed in. This actually caught me out on the first time I tried to start my engine - couldn't work out why it wouldn't turn over until I realised I hadn't pushed the switch in TBH, unless you have a new, shiny Caterham, I don't think our cars are in the least interesting to a car thief - the parts are almost worthless, the market is very small and our cars are too unique to be able to just sell them on - I never worried about it.

No, you won't for that budget but you can get a good pinto-engined kit for that.

Pinto definitely - much more common, so easier for parts and lots of people on here have/had them, so lots of experience. However, Zetec or Mazda MX5 is better still, if you can stretch to it.

Any pics? I believe the new owner of my kit was there (Steve?)?

I had this on and off for 6 months - finally tracked it down to the wiring to my TPS which had come loose. Found it using the data logger in the Emerald software (if you have an Emerald ECU?).

I've only ever had one car with a carb (an old VW Polo) and I had to once remove the fuel pump to fix a leaking O-ring. When I refitted the pump, I stupidly put the pipes on the wrong way round, so it was pumping petrol out of the carb and back to the fuel tank Ran for about 60 seconds before gently switching off

I'm guessing you mean rounds 7 and 8 will be this weekend on July 20th and 21st?

Damn, that is sad, especially in the Midlands where so many of our members are. This is part of the reason why I recently sold my kit - there is no-one down South who seems interested in meeting up. I don't mind driving on my own but, occasionally, it would be good to meet others. I regularly see kit cars out on their own but they are mostly Caterham's who probably wouldn't be on here anyway. TBF, it's pretty much always been like that down here - sad to see it spreading up north though.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/trackace-laser-wheel-alignment-gauge-t-atag01/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptrpaqqq&istBid=t&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwp4m0BhBAEiwAsdc4aDyfa30Sef_crhBZZOvfLMyD8z4CPXuhd5v6qMwZVYn4Yoq8Dyjo7hoCJVMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Gone up, £90 now...

Has it got normal tie rods ie. they're on a threaded arm? If so, just try get a proper alignment (and no, you can't do it by eye). Two methods; a dubious process using string and long pieces of wood (do a search on here) and better is to find someone with one of those home laser alignment kits (or buy your own - about £70 I think).

I believe this is quite common and is about Ackerman geometry that a car uses to go round corners. I don't understand the tech stuff but Wikipedia says this: Modern cars do not use pure Ackermann steering, partly because it ignores important dynamic and compliant effects, but the principle is sound for low-speed manoeuvres. Some race cars use reverse Ackermann geometry to compensate for the large difference in slip angle between the inner and outer front tyres while cornering at high speed. The use of such geometry helps reduce tyre temperatures during high-speed cornering but compromises performance in low-speed maneuvers. On other forums, someone said a wheel alignment fixed it for them? Also: THIS is why our tires shuffle sideways in low speed parking maneuvers. The colder or more worn the tire the more noticeable it is because there is less compliance in the tread. Check age/state of tyres?

Nooo - how are they going to train the dogs now?

actually, I bought my replacement toy back in October (19 year old Porsche Boxster) - I've been agonising over this decision ever since...didn't expect it to sell so quick tbh. I was sort of hoping it wouldn't sell and I'd be forced to keep it