ThanasisPolitis

Hello everyone, I wanted to share my journey of restoring my Tiger Cat E1 kit car, which I’ve named Eva. I’ve documented the entire process on my blog, and I hope it can inspire others who are interested in project cars or looking to take on similar restorations. From tackling extensive rust issues in the cooling system to refurbishing various components, I’ve chronicled each step of the journey, including the challenges I faced and the lessons I learned along the way. You can check out the blog here: A Tiger Called Eva. I’d love to hear your thoughts, and if you have any questions or tips, feel free to drop a comment! Looking forward to connecting with fellow car enthusiasts! Cheers, Thanasis

Thanks for the shout Steve! Dan, you might want to speak with Ben (07584348665) at the RetroShed he is a fabricator. His workshop is in Rusper, Horsham, RH12

Thank you Derek! I am planning to change everything in the engine, so I can guarantee longevity and reliability.

Thank you very much for your replies!! I have taken the decision to overhaul the engine over the winter so hopefully Eva will be running again by Spring 2025. I think now it is time to break the news to my wife and explain how magically the 2025 holiday pot just…disappeared!

Thank you, I do not have an oil pressure gauge so I do not have that info, however, the oil light extinguishes after engine start and does not come back on while the engine is running.

I am using Halfords Classic 20w50

Hello, I’m experiencing a knocking noise in my Tiger, which seems to be originating from cylinder 3. I’ve attached a couple of videos that may help in diagnosing the issue. To provide some context, I recently had the engine tuned on a rolling road (~50 miles ago) and everything was running smoothly with no issues. Since the tune, I haven’t overrevved or raced the engine; I’m using a solid-state rev limiter set at 5400 RPM for safety. Prior to noticing the knock, I did have an issue with electromagnetic interference (EMI) affecting some sensors, so I replaced the spark plugs from NGK AP7FS (which was used during the tune) to NGK APR6FS. This resolved the EMI issue, and I drove it for about 15 miles before noticing the knocking sound. I then reinstalled the original NGK AP7FS plugs, but the knock persists. Both engine oil and coolant levels are normal, with no signs of consumption, and there’s no visible smoke from the exhaust. Any insights into what might be causing this knock would be greatly appreciated! Best regards, Thanasis

Thank you all for the recommendations! I have tried everything without any luck, I have added extra earth connections to the alternator and distributor, shortened the coil to dizzy lead, added ferrite cores to the cables… I spoke with the tuner and they said changing the spark plugs won’t affect the tune so I went ahead and bought the APR6FS ones and to my surprise, there is no interference anymore!!! Thank you all for your amazing help and support, much appreciated!

As Steve mentioned above, I am very happy with the cover, worth every penny! I am looking to invest in a tonneau too as I have seen occasionally condensation built up on the seats, but that’s to be expected if stored outside.

Thank you for the reply, very helpful! The dash light is a led one so it does not have enough current draw to excite the alternator, I think…

So, done some tests and it seems that the electronic rev limiter and it’s cabling is not the source of the interference. I started up the car and noticed that the tachometer was counting and stable until the l revved the engine above 2k rpm for the alternator to kick in —which it did — and then the tachometer stopped working all together and the temp gauge was fluctuating… I am now wondering if the source of interference is the alternator itself? It has two brown cables in the back of it, a thick and a thin one. As far as the ground, I get continuity between the block and the alternator as well as with other ground points around the car… Should the alternator have a dedicated ground cable instead of just relying on the connection with the block?

Hey there, I recently bought my Tiger Cat E1 for £5.5k, but yours seems to have a lot more engine work done. As long as the chassis and cooling systems are rust-free, I’d say the price is fair.

Very interesting… thank you all for your input, much appreciated! I think the culprit might be from the electronic rev limiter I have bolted in the back of the dashboard. I have run some two cables from the positive and negative of the coil across the engine bay following the path of the original wire loom. Now I need the rain to stop so I can go and test this.

Thank you! very interesting point, I do not think the dizzy has an earth wire… it earths through the engine block…

I just tuned the car in a rolling road and I am wondering if I go to the APR6FS will it throw the tune off?