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peter_m7uk

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About peter_m7uk

  • Birthday May 26

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  • Car type
    Robin Hood Lightweight with 2.0EFi Pinto engine
  • Full name
    Peter Martin

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  • Website URL
    http://community.webshots.com/album/412376112XIFvAZ

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brighton-based Geordie

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  1. Hi all, to get E5 fuel for my standard 2.0 EFi Pinto, I'm now running on 98 or 99 octane fuel. Just wondered if anyone had tried advancing their timing with that set up? I wondered if the ECU and engine would be able to take advantage of the higher octane or not?!
  2. Update - I measured the coolant sensor voltage.. When cold, it was 4.4v. Just after I started the engine, it actually rose above 5v. Then when hot, it dropped to around 3.4v. This is obviously pretty different to the 3.5v cold and 0.5-0.8v hot in the article above! So I suspect that's the culprit, the voltages are way out of range. Now where do I buy a replacement?? Mine needs a spade connector, but a quick online search so far shows sensors with round connectors...
  3. Thanks, but the idle valve certainly doesn't seem to be stuck, I'm inclined to look elsewhere before I consider a new one. I will try measuring the voltages given on page 3 of Derek's article...
  4. Hi Ian, thanks for the suggestion. It's one thing I'd considered, but doesn't that valve work when the engine is hot as well? My thinking was that, if it was the idle valve, it would always idle badly, not just when cold.. As it's pretty easy, I will have a look anyway. Cheers
  5. Hi All, My Pinto 2.0 EFi idled absolutely fine when cold, until recently. I used to start it and it would automatically rev at about 1200-1500 rpm until it warmed up a bit, then drop to 800rpm, nice and stable. These days, I start it and it almost stalls, then the revs pick up for a few seconds, before it almost stalls again, then it finally settles into an 800rpm idle. Once it's hot the idle is fine, so what's going on specifically when cold? And where has my initial high idle speed disappeared to?? Thanks, Pete
  6. Hi, my seatbelts are TRS 4 point harnesses. which are fine but they can slip off my shoulders at times. I wondered, is there some sort of aftermarket strap or pad which can be added that connects the top 2 shoulder belts and sits across the chest? I just thought such an item would help to hold the shoulder belts together so they don't slip off and might make things a bit more comfortable and safer. I thought it would do a job like the cross-strap shown at this link - https://www.sickspeed.com/products/4-point-3-nylon-racing-harness-shoulder-pad-safety-seat-belt-buckle Cheers
  7. That's exactly the same as my existing one! Only thing is I bought it 2nd hand from eBay years ago and I don't know the history (the release bearing was new). It's probably absolutely fine, it's just that the engine and gearbox are out due to a clunking noise when I raise the clutch to bite point after everything has warmed up. I've had the gearbox rebuilt, I'm changing the spigot bearing in the end of the crank, so I thought why not a brand new clutch and release bearing to be definitely on the safe side! I collected an LUK clutch kit today, for the injection engine. It has the short spring "fingers" like the original and the Burton heavy duty one, so I'm very happy
  8. As my engine and gearbox are out at the moment, I've been looking for any other jobs to do. I decided to buy a new clutch kit, but I was faced with a choice of which engine type. Mine is N4A, as it's the 2.0 EFi, but the closest I was offered by the auto factor was N4B, which is the lower powered one with a catalyst. Now I'm unsure whether the clutch I already had one was the correct one anyway! And which one to buy now. Looking at my pic of the original donor clutch, which I binned, the central spring "fingers" are quite short, like the one here - https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/car-parts/Ford/Sierra/2.0L/Petrol/National-Auto-Parts/Transmission/Clutch-Kits-and-Parts/CK9001/1/497. Also, I notice that one has 4 large springs in the friction disc. The pressure plate looks more like this "heavy duty" one - https://www.burtonpower.com/helix-hd-clutch-cover-ford-sohc-pinto-2-0-215mm-60-2851.html Whereas my current clutch is more like this - https://www.burtonpower.com/luk-std-clutch-kit-ford-2-0-sohc-pinto-215mm-622017506.html - with longer "fingers" and 6 smaller springs in the friction disc. I'm wondering, did I fit the wrong clutch?! The non EFi engines only went up to 99hp, whereas my EFi has 114hp, so maybe it was supposed to have a heavier duty version??
  9. Aha, cheers! They're already in there from the original rebuild, I checked my old pictures, I just couldn't remember
  10. PS Do you see the 2 little white bits of plastic in the burton gasket kit? What are they supposed to be for??
  11. I'll see what I can do. The metal is relatively thin around the sump edge, though. Another thought I had was to loosen all the bolts off again without them coming out, so the whole sump drops several mill. Then smear a thin layer of gasket sealant, as Bob says, all the way around the gap and retighten.
  12. Thanks, Bob. The annoying thing is that, having inspected the cork seal that came off, I'm starting to think it was actually okay! I put that on when I fully rebuilt the engine, so I was able to turn the block upside down, get everything cleaned up and take my time over it to do a good job. Like I said, there were other small leaks above it (dipstick, oil pressure sensor, oil filter), so it was possibly just wet with oil because of those On the exhaust side of the engine, the sump gasket was bone dry.. My reasoning, though, was that "I've got the engine out now, so while I've got this chance, I might as well fit an improved gasket to be doubly sure". (On the Lightweight, there isn't space to take the sump off without taking the engine out!) I will really kick myself once I sort the dipstick etc leaks, if the new gasket decides to blow instead!!
  13. Hi, I used a cork gasket on my Pinto sump, but wasn't happy with it as I thought it was a bit leaky. Hard to be certain, though, as I think I had other leaks above it! Anyway, as my engine is out at the moment for a different reason, I thought I'd take the opportunity to buy a "competition" sump gasket from Burton and give that a try instead - https://www.burtonpower.com/sump-gasket-set-heavy-duty-ford-sohc-pinto-ft793kc.html. Apparently, if there is a leak, oil makes the gasket material swell at that point and should stop the leak. Thing is, now I've fitted it, it seems quite thin and I can see a wave along the joint, particularly in one place. I ran a feeler gauge there and there was a small but definite gap in the seal. Has anyone else tried this gasket and how was your experience?? I realise that the sump edge material can bend, also the bolts can distort the material when tightened, both of which can compromise the seal. I had an idea to use a small piece of wood of the correct size, with a rubber mallet, then go right around the sump edge tapping it to try and close all the gaps - Anyone tried something like that? What are the chances that the blue gasket material can swell enough to close a gap? Pete
  14. I have heard others say that they left it off and never had a problem (one for 14 years!), so I am very tempted to remove it.. I will keep it, just in case fate teaches me a lesson and I decide that Ford got it right all along!
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