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About peter_m7uk

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday May 26

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  • Car type
    Robin Hood Lightweight with 2.0EFi Pinto engine
  • Full name
    Peter Martin

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  • Location
    Brighton-based Geordie

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  1. Hi, my seatbelts are TRS 4 point harnesses. which are fine but they can slip off my shoulders at times. I wondered, is there some sort of aftermarket strap or pad which can be added that connects the top 2 shoulder belts and sits across the chest? I just thought such an item would help to hold the shoulder belts together so they don't slip off and might make things a bit more comfortable and safer. I thought it would do a job like the cross-strap shown at this link - https://www.sickspeed.com/products/4-point-3-nylon-racing-harness-shoulder-pad-safety-seat-belt-buckle Cheers
  2. That's exactly the same as my existing one! Only thing is I bought it 2nd hand from eBay years ago and I don't know the history (the release bearing was new). It's probably absolutely fine, it's just that the engine and gearbox are out due to a clunking noise when I raise the clutch to bite point after everything has warmed up. I've had the gearbox rebuilt, I'm changing the spigot bearing in the end of the crank, so I thought why not a brand new clutch and release bearing to be definitely on the safe side! I collected an LUK clutch kit today, for the injection engine. It has the s
  3. As my engine and gearbox are out at the moment, I've been looking for any other jobs to do. I decided to buy a new clutch kit, but I was faced with a choice of which engine type. Mine is N4A, as it's the 2.0 EFi, but the closest I was offered by the auto factor was N4B, which is the lower powered one with a catalyst. Now I'm unsure whether the clutch I already had one was the correct one anyway! And which one to buy now. Looking at my pic of the original donor clutch, which I binned, the central spring "fingers" are quite short, like the one here - https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk
  4. Aha, cheers! They're already in there from the original rebuild, I checked my old pictures, I just couldn't remember
  5. PS Do you see the 2 little white bits of plastic in the burton gasket kit? What are they supposed to be for??
  6. I'll see what I can do. The metal is relatively thin around the sump edge, though. Another thought I had was to loosen all the bolts off again without them coming out, so the whole sump drops several mill. Then smear a thin layer of gasket sealant, as Bob says, all the way around the gap and retighten.
  7. Thanks, Bob. The annoying thing is that, having inspected the cork seal that came off, I'm starting to think it was actually okay! I put that on when I fully rebuilt the engine, so I was able to turn the block upside down, get everything cleaned up and take my time over it to do a good job. Like I said, there were other small leaks above it (dipstick, oil pressure sensor, oil filter), so it was possibly just wet with oil because of those On the exhaust side of the engine, the sump gasket was bone dry.. My reasoning, though, was that "I've got the engine out now, so while I've got this
  8. Hi, I used a cork gasket on my Pinto sump, but wasn't happy with it as I thought it was a bit leaky. Hard to be certain, though, as I think I had other leaks above it! Anyway, as my engine is out at the moment for a different reason, I thought I'd take the opportunity to buy a "competition" sump gasket from Burton and give that a try instead - https://www.burtonpower.com/sump-gasket-set-heavy-duty-ford-sohc-pinto-ft793kc.html. Apparently, if there is a leak, oil makes the gasket material swell at that point and should stop the leak. Thing is, now I've fitted it, it seems quite th
  9. I have heard others say that they left it off and never had a problem (one for 14 years!), so I am very tempted to remove it.. I will keep it, just in case fate teaches me a lesson and I decide that Ford got it right all along!
  10. I have my gearbox out at the moment, as I'm going for a rebuild and higher 1st gear. Anyway, it made me think about the rear mounting point, which I know is the lowest point on the car after going over speed bumps! I kept it as on the Sierra, where a bolt with a long hexagonal end goes through a bell-shaped "washer", then the earth strap is screwed to the end of this hexagon. My question is why the need for this bell-shaped washer? Can't you just leave that off and put an ordinary set screw through the earth strap ring terminal and on into the gearbox? This would significantly raise the l
  11. Hi Bob, are you saying the E6 is a 6-speed box? Would you mind saying what that cost? And how long you had to wait for it? I'm not looking to spend thousands and wait months, I was hoping to spend under a grand and get it quickly so I can go driving through the Spring
  12. Hi all, I'm about to whip my engine out as I think the spigot bearing may have gone. Not 100% about that, it could be gearbox related instead. So I was thinking, while I'm doing a major job, should I change the gearbox as well.. It came out of a 100,000 mile donor Sierra, all I did was clean and paint it, change the oil and output shaft seal. I thought it was okay, but it would be good to have a box that I can trust completely. Anyway, I looked at my options and found this company - https://www.firstmotion.co.uk/ford-type-9-close-ratio-2/ - who will do an exchange or rebuilt gearb
  13. Hello chaps. Yes, it's straightforward to remove the propshaft on the Lightweight, you just take the tunnel top cover off and access is easy. However, I've measured it up and I think I can get the engine out first without moving the gearbox! It may turn out differently when I come to actually do it, but I think if I take the pump and thermostat housing off the front of the engine to allow it to move forwards, I can get enough movement to release the gearbox input shaft. Then I just lift. We shall see!
  14. I am facing up to the fact that, whatever the cause, this is probably an engine-out (or even gearbox) job I've never done that in a complete car, so just wondering about any tips?? It's bloody tight in a Seven, so I'm giving it some thought. Obviously, I disconnect exhaust, fuel lines, electrics. Removing the engine+gearbox together seems extremely difficult in a Lightweight, involving scuttle and battery tray removal, so I definitely want to avoid that. Separating the engine and gearbox also looks tough! I suspect, after removing the propshaft and gearbox rear mounting bolt, I
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