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peter_m7uk

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About peter_m7uk

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday May 26

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Building a Lightweight with 2.0EFi Pinto engine
  • Full name
    Peter Martin

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://community.webshots.com/album/412376112XIFvAZ
  • E-mail
    peter_m7uk@yahoo.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brighton-based Geordie

Recent Profile Visitors

4,925 profile views
  1. So not necessary to pass? Thanks for the tip, gents
  2. Hi, I'm about to fit the ali reg plate bracket to my nosecone, but wondered about expectations for IVA? If the usual GBS bracket is there but no reg plate, might it fail on sharp edges? Or if I just leave it off for the test, can I fail for not having a place to mount the reg plate?! Ta, Pete
  3. Hi all, thanks for your replies. I'm starting to be swayed by the number of people (on this forum and elsewhere) saying it's not necessary. I must admit, my initial reaction to the letter was to think "Can't the IVA examiner just check it during the test?" - That would make more sense... The statutory plate and stamp are complete, so I think I'll take the small risk that they say something about the confirmation signature at IVA! Cheers, Pete
  4. Magh, Maca, Nelmo, This is from a DVLA letter, in which I received the new VIN number for the chassis. It says very clearly that, before IVA, I need the VIN seen by a garage and signed off. Other people have said to me that it might not be necessary, but I'd rather not turn up for the IVA and be turned away for this! Pete
  5. Hello Alan, Thanks, sounds like a good option. I have a towbar on my daily car and access to a trailer if need be! Where is your mate, more exactly? Appreciated. Pete
  6. Hello all, I've been trying to follow the DLVA process where "a franchised dealer or local garage must stamp the DVLA VIN on the chassis or frame of the vehicle and complete the declaration". The problem is that no one will help, even though the stamp is already on the car and they just have to check it and sign I spoke to a few garages here on the South Coast and the response always tends to be "don't know anything about that, can't you ask someone else who does that sort of thing?". My nearest garage (10 minute walk away) at first said "can't you ask your local gar
  7. It's okay, chaps, all sorted. I cut a corner off the plastic cover then filled the hole with sealant and refitted to the gearbox. The clearance is fine now, similar or a bit more than shown in Peter Bell's photo
  8. Thanks for replies, chaps. It definitely doesn't fit properly, I had it on before, but it "knocks" against the tunnel side all the time. The tunnel is tapered and narrows at that point, causing the problem. I might just bite the bullet and start cutting that plastic cover down bit by bit and test fitting it to see how much I need to take off. It's reassuring to know that people have run it with no cover for years with no problem, that can be the last resort! I suppose a cover is a bit better than none, I can always try to plug the hole made in the plastic once I cut enough to stop th
  9. Hi, just a quick question about my Ford Type 9 gearbox. As you can see in the bottom left of the pic (not from my car), the clutch cable end is captured in the end of a lever which sticks diagonally out of the bottom of the box through a rectangular hole. Originally on the Sierra, the gearbox had a black plastic cover over that rectangular hole, with a bit of a "tube" to allow the cable into the cover. The gearbox is so close to the tunnel side in my car that the black plastic cover doesn't fully fit. If I'm going to use the cover, I'll have to cut it down then repair with another b
  10. For info, I spoke to a glass specialist and Rich Hall at GBS, in the end. The glass guy said he could cut, but there was a 50/50 chance of cracking it. Richard said it shouldn't be too hard to bend the ali frame, then if I made a wooden template for the glass and sent it to GBS, they'd send me a new pane to match. So my approach is to bend the frame and take the existing pane to the glass cutter. If he can cut without cracking it, result! If it does crack, I will have to go the wooden template route. For those who say "just fill the gap", "it's a lot of hassle to do that" etc,
  11. There's no "edit" option, I'm afraid! Some of my posts are over 10 years old, I think maybe with age I can no longer edit??
  12. Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I did have various ideas about "filling the gap". But my first preference is to adjust the frame and the glass - Anyone on here (Zero builders) got some ideas on that? Pete
  13. Hi, my windscreeen is quite old and was supplied by Robin Hood complete - You may not be surprised to learn that it doesn't quite fit! The curve of the scuttle and the curve of the windscreen bottom ali bracket are just a bit too different to cover with trim, so I think I need an adjustment! I would post a picture, but I seem to have used all my Rhocar attachment space and can't see how to remove anything.. Anyway, for those who have adjusted theirs, how did you bend the bottom bracket? It looks quite sturdy and I would be worried about cracking the ali if I need to apply serious for
  14. Great, thanks, Nicko and Nelmo. If I understand correctly, you cut the sides of the countersunk screws otherwise they wouldn't fit into the frame? And why use a hardboard screen? If you can take the glass out, can't you just drill into a bare frame? Cheers, Pete
  15. Hi Ian, thanks for your reply. Was there any particular aesthetically-pleasing head on the screw, do you have a picture? Are others using the self-tapping screw method on the Zero, for example?
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