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peter_m7uk

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Everything posted by peter_m7uk

  1. I measured the voltages, but they seemed to be about the right ballpark, so I left it for a while... Now the engine won't idle at all, never mind when it's cold! So probably not temperature-related and I've ended up ordering a brand new idle control valve for £35. I opted not to clean, as I cleaned the existing valve before and it's plumbed in without a connection to the cam cover, fresh air intake only. It's a 33 year old valve that had already done 100,000+ miles, so let's try a new one! Fingers crossed that does the job, anyway
  2. Hi all, to get E5 fuel for my standard 2.0 EFi Pinto, I'm now running on 98 or 99 octane fuel. Just wondered if anyone had tried advancing their timing with that set up? I wondered if the ECU and engine would be able to take advantage of the higher octane or not?!
  3. Update - I measured the coolant sensor voltage.. When cold, it was 4.4v. Just after I started the engine, it actually rose above 5v. Then when hot, it dropped to around 3.4v. This is obviously pretty different to the 3.5v cold and 0.5-0.8v hot in the article above! So I suspect that's the culprit, the voltages are way out of range. Now where do I buy a replacement?? Mine needs a spade connector, but a quick online search so far shows sensors with round connectors...
  4. Thanks, but the idle valve certainly doesn't seem to be stuck, I'm inclined to look elsewhere before I consider a new one. I will try measuring the voltages given on page 3 of Derek's article...
  5. Hi Ian, thanks for the suggestion. It's one thing I'd considered, but doesn't that valve work when the engine is hot as well? My thinking was that, if it was the idle valve, it would always idle badly, not just when cold.. As it's pretty easy, I will have a look anyway. Cheers
  6. Hi All, My Pinto 2.0 EFi idled absolutely fine when cold, until recently. I used to start it and it would automatically rev at about 1200-1500 rpm until it warmed up a bit, then drop to 800rpm, nice and stable. These days, I start it and it almost stalls, then the revs pick up for a few seconds, before it almost stalls again, then it finally settles into an 800rpm idle. Once it's hot the idle is fine, so what's going on specifically when cold? And where has my initial high idle speed disappeared to?? Thanks, Pete
  7. Hi, my seatbelts are TRS 4 point harnesses. which are fine but they can slip off my shoulders at times. I wondered, is there some sort of aftermarket strap or pad which can be added that connects the top 2 shoulder belts and sits across the chest? I just thought such an item would help to hold the shoulder belts together so they don't slip off and might make things a bit more comfortable and safer. I thought it would do a job like the cross-strap shown at this link - https://www.sickspeed.com/products/4-point-3-nylon-racing-harness-shoulder-pad-safety-seat-belt-buckle Cheers
  8. That's exactly the same as my existing one! Only thing is I bought it 2nd hand from eBay years ago and I don't know the history (the release bearing was new). It's probably absolutely fine, it's just that the engine and gearbox are out due to a clunking noise when I raise the clutch to bite point after everything has warmed up. I've had the gearbox rebuilt, I'm changing the spigot bearing in the end of the crank, so I thought why not a brand new clutch and release bearing to be definitely on the safe side! I collected an LUK clutch kit today, for the injection engine. It has the short spring "fingers" like the original and the Burton heavy duty one, so I'm very happy
  9. As my engine and gearbox are out at the moment, I've been looking for any other jobs to do. I decided to buy a new clutch kit, but I was faced with a choice of which engine type. Mine is N4A, as it's the 2.0 EFi, but the closest I was offered by the auto factor was N4B, which is the lower powered one with a catalyst. Now I'm unsure whether the clutch I already had one was the correct one anyway! And which one to buy now. Looking at my pic of the original donor clutch, which I binned, the central spring "fingers" are quite short, like the one here - https://www.onlineautomotive.co.uk/car-parts/Ford/Sierra/2.0L/Petrol/National-Auto-Parts/Transmission/Clutch-Kits-and-Parts/CK9001/1/497. Also, I notice that one has 4 large springs in the friction disc. The pressure plate looks more like this "heavy duty" one - https://www.burtonpower.com/helix-hd-clutch-cover-ford-sohc-pinto-2-0-215mm-60-2851.html Whereas my current clutch is more like this - https://www.burtonpower.com/luk-std-clutch-kit-ford-2-0-sohc-pinto-215mm-622017506.html - with longer "fingers" and 6 smaller springs in the friction disc. I'm wondering, did I fit the wrong clutch?! The non EFi engines only went up to 99hp, whereas my EFi has 114hp, so maybe it was supposed to have a heavier duty version??
  10. Aha, cheers! They're already in there from the original rebuild, I checked my old pictures, I just couldn't remember
  11. PS Do you see the 2 little white bits of plastic in the burton gasket kit? What are they supposed to be for??
  12. I'll see what I can do. The metal is relatively thin around the sump edge, though. Another thought I had was to loosen all the bolts off again without them coming out, so the whole sump drops several mill. Then smear a thin layer of gasket sealant, as Bob says, all the way around the gap and retighten.
  13. Thanks, Bob. The annoying thing is that, having inspected the cork seal that came off, I'm starting to think it was actually okay! I put that on when I fully rebuilt the engine, so I was able to turn the block upside down, get everything cleaned up and take my time over it to do a good job. Like I said, there were other small leaks above it (dipstick, oil pressure sensor, oil filter), so it was possibly just wet with oil because of those On the exhaust side of the engine, the sump gasket was bone dry.. My reasoning, though, was that "I've got the engine out now, so while I've got this chance, I might as well fit an improved gasket to be doubly sure". (On the Lightweight, there isn't space to take the sump off without taking the engine out!) I will really kick myself once I sort the dipstick etc leaks, if the new gasket decides to blow instead!!
  14. Hi, I used a cork gasket on my Pinto sump, but wasn't happy with it as I thought it was a bit leaky. Hard to be certain, though, as I think I had other leaks above it! Anyway, as my engine is out at the moment for a different reason, I thought I'd take the opportunity to buy a "competition" sump gasket from Burton and give that a try instead - https://www.burtonpower.com/sump-gasket-set-heavy-duty-ford-sohc-pinto-ft793kc.html. Apparently, if there is a leak, oil makes the gasket material swell at that point and should stop the leak. Thing is, now I've fitted it, it seems quite thin and I can see a wave along the joint, particularly in one place. I ran a feeler gauge there and there was a small but definite gap in the seal. Has anyone else tried this gasket and how was your experience?? I realise that the sump edge material can bend, also the bolts can distort the material when tightened, both of which can compromise the seal. I had an idea to use a small piece of wood of the correct size, with a rubber mallet, then go right around the sump edge tapping it to try and close all the gaps - Anyone tried something like that? What are the chances that the blue gasket material can swell enough to close a gap? Pete
  15. I have heard others say that they left it off and never had a problem (one for 14 years!), so I am very tempted to remove it.. I will keep it, just in case fate teaches me a lesson and I decide that Ford got it right all along!
  16. I have my gearbox out at the moment, as I'm going for a rebuild and higher 1st gear. Anyway, it made me think about the rear mounting point, which I know is the lowest point on the car after going over speed bumps! I kept it as on the Sierra, where a bolt with a long hexagonal end goes through a bell-shaped "washer", then the earth strap is screwed to the end of this hexagon. My question is why the need for this bell-shaped washer? Can't you just leave that off and put an ordinary set screw through the earth strap ring terminal and on into the gearbox? This would significantly raise the lowest point on the car, while still mounting the gearbox and creating an earth... Pete
  17. Hi Bob, are you saying the E6 is a 6-speed box? Would you mind saying what that cost? And how long you had to wait for it? I'm not looking to spend thousands and wait months, I was hoping to spend under a grand and get it quickly so I can go driving through the Spring
  18. Hi all, I'm about to whip my engine out as I think the spigot bearing may have gone. Not 100% about that, it could be gearbox related instead. So I was thinking, while I'm doing a major job, should I change the gearbox as well.. It came out of a 100,000 mile donor Sierra, all I did was clean and paint it, change the oil and output shaft seal. I thought it was okay, but it would be good to have a box that I can trust completely. Anyway, I looked at my options and found this company - https://www.firstmotion.co.uk/ford-type-9-close-ratio-2/ - who will do an exchange or rebuilt gearbox, with options for different ratios. The standard Type 9 has a 3.65:1 first gear and 1.97:1 second gear, which are obviously very different! Have any of you tried the 2.98:1 first gear? That is an option from First Motion. The idea is that you can hold first for longer when you accelerate, as the standard box means you have to go into 2nd quickly and then it's much higher than 1st, so it isn't so smooth through the gears. First Motion do other options, but it gets expensive pretty quickly! Opinions welcomed
  19. Hello chaps. Yes, it's straightforward to remove the propshaft on the Lightweight, you just take the tunnel top cover off and access is easy. However, I've measured it up and I think I can get the engine out first without moving the gearbox! It may turn out differently when I come to actually do it, but I think if I take the pump and thermostat housing off the front of the engine to allow it to move forwards, I can get enough movement to release the gearbox input shaft. Then I just lift. We shall see!
  20. I am facing up to the fact that, whatever the cause, this is probably an engine-out (or even gearbox) job I've never done that in a complete car, so just wondering about any tips?? It's bloody tight in a Seven, so I'm giving it some thought. Obviously, I disconnect exhaust, fuel lines, electrics. Removing the engine+gearbox together seems extremely difficult in a Lightweight, involving scuttle and battery tray removal, so I definitely want to avoid that. Separating the engine and gearbox also looks tough! I suspect, after removing the propshaft and gearbox rear mounting bolt, I need to jack the box up underneath, support the engine and bellhousing and remove the bellhousing-to-engine bolts. Then try to move the gearbox backwards up the tunnel until the gearbox input shaft separates from the engine. At this point, with engine mounts off, I can freely hoist the engine up? Cheers
  21. It's a brand new clutch, Rich, so that's very unlikely and it feels nice and strong, but thanks for the suggestion
  22. Thanks, Sparepart, I will try that. The suggestion I'm getting on another forum is the spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft - A guy said he had the same symptoms when his seized. I suspect, whatever it is, it's not a fun fix
  23. To clarify, the noise seems to happen at the point of clutch bite as the pedal is raised, whether in neutral or in gear.
  24. My Robin Hood is running a 2.0i Pinto with Type 9 box. I'm finding that everything is fine and smooth when cold and warming up, but once hot, the gearchange can become notchy and releasing the clutch makes a worrying clunk! When I'm changing gear after about 20-25 mins of driving (nice and hot), it decides to clunk, particularly from 1st-to-2nd and 2nd-to-3rd. If I stop the car, put it in neutral with engine running and move the clutch pedal in and out, there's a clunk when I release the pedal. With the engine off, no clunk. It seems strange that the problem takes so long to appear, so it seems heat-related. I shielded the clutch cable so it can't get hot and expand. I adjusted the clutch so it's definitely disengaging gears when hot if I press the pedal halfway and beyond. The Type 9 had done 100,000 miles when I took it out of the donor with no gearbox problems. All I did was change the oil, change the output shaft oil seal and fit a new clutch release bearing. Any ideas, folks?
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