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Everything posted by peter_m7uk

  1. Just an update after I called the DVLA. The answers were As the donor is 1989 and I'm looking to retain the original reg plate, I was advised to leave V55/5 "Date of registration" blank and put an explanatory note in with the forms to the DVLA For the V672/1, I was advised again to leave Current Registration Number blank and include an explanatory note Apparently, it's only in Northern Ireland where insurance or cover note is required before paying the tax. Sparepart, I used a magnificent invention called "a trailer" that you may have heard of...?
  2. Thanks! But I don't agree about the old posts. They definitely don't belong in the section dedicated to the Lightweight chassis problems. Would we keep posts on wiring in the mechanical section of the forum, for example? Yes, maybe no one spotted this error for a while, but it's not helpful to have a disorganised forum IMO
  3. Thanks all! Yes, I am one stubborn sod Obviously, I had time to do a lot of checking before the IVA
  4. After passing IVA yesterday I've been filling in the registration forms, but I'm not clear on a few things, if anyone could help, please! My kit car is based on Sierra running gear from a complete donor, for which I still have the V5 with 1989 registration date. I hope to get an old F reg age-related plate, definitely want to avoid a Q (I have receipts/photos etc). When I filled in the V55/5 registration application form, I needed to give "Date of original registration" and "Date of registration in the UK". I found something online saying I should use the IVA test date for both.
  5. I realise the Lightweight created some controversy in the past over the use of an aluminium monocoque, but I'm delighted to say mine passed the IVA at Gillingham yesterday My mods consisted of Steel plates at the lower seat belt mounting points The same steel plate inside the propshaft tunnel is used to mount the diff at the front A right angle bracket at rear of diff used to bolt the rear diff mounting point to top of the enclosed ali box Steel plates and sheet under all roll bar mounting points for load spreading into chassis Ali right angles added wherever
  6. Gents, I'm delighted to say that, after over FIFTEEN years, I finally passed the IVA yesterday at the first attempt! In that time, the test was renamed from SVA to IVA, I've had an operation on my heart to close a hole, I've made a bunch of mods and redesigned many parts of the car. But I've done it, wahey!! Now I can go drive and get on with the rest of my life! Thanks for all the advice over the years, Rhocar has been great Pete
  7. peter_m7uk

    Headlamp aim

    For those suggesting an MOT, thanks for the advice, but if I can build an entire car I insist that I can set a pair of headlamps by myself too !! I'm going to take the adjustable spanner I use for the headlamps to the IVA, but my understanding is that strictly speaking I won't be able to use it due to Covid rules....
  8. peter_m7uk

    Headlamp aim

    Thanks for the info, Ian! I've been reading around this more and I finally understand the percentages - They are a gradient. So the 1% line depends how far you are from the wall. For example, at 1m from the wall, the top of the beam must 1cm below the zero. At 7.62m from the wall, the top of the beam must be 7.62cm below the zero line. And so on. Now I understand the rules, I can work it all out on a wall regardless of distance, but I'll try to keep to the 25 feet mark if that's what they use at the IVA test
  9. peter_m7uk

    Headlamp aim

    Hello chaps, thanks for the answers. The thing is, if I do it outside my garage, I save all the hassle of trailering a car to an MOT (I'm not going to drive it there!), plus the usual £40-50 fee! Surely someone understands the regulations out there? If my description is right, I'm happy to do it that way
  10. peter_m7uk

    Headlamp aim

    Hi all, I've seen the IVA regs for headlamp aim, with the diagrams showing vertical and horizontal percentage tolerance bands. I understand that this can't be adjusted in the IVA test at the moment, due to Covid restrictions, so I have to get it right first time! First of all, I'm not sure I understand the definition of the tolerance bands, can anyone help? My educated guess is that the zero-zero point is measured at the centre point of the circular headlamps and halfway between the two? So if my headlamp centres are 680mm off the ground and 800mm apart, then the test equipm
  11. So not necessary to pass? Thanks for the tip, gents
  12. Hi, I'm about to fit the ali reg plate bracket to my nosecone, but wondered about expectations for IVA? If the usual GBS bracket is there but no reg plate, might it fail on sharp edges? Or if I just leave it off for the test, can I fail for not having a place to mount the reg plate?! Ta, Pete
  13. Hi all, thanks for your replies. I'm starting to be swayed by the number of people (on this forum and elsewhere) saying it's not necessary. I must admit, my initial reaction to the letter was to think "Can't the IVA examiner just check it during the test?" - That would make more sense... The statutory plate and stamp are complete, so I think I'll take the small risk that they say something about the confirmation signature at IVA! Cheers, Pete
  14. Magh, Maca, Nelmo, This is from a DVLA letter, in which I received the new VIN number for the chassis. It says very clearly that, before IVA, I need the VIN seen by a garage and signed off. Other people have said to me that it might not be necessary, but I'd rather not turn up for the IVA and be turned away for this! Pete
  15. Hello Alan, Thanks, sounds like a good option. I have a towbar on my daily car and access to a trailer if need be! Where is your mate, more exactly? Appreciated. Pete
  16. Hello all, I've been trying to follow the DLVA process where "a franchised dealer or local garage must stamp the DVLA VIN on the chassis or frame of the vehicle and complete the declaration". The problem is that no one will help, even though the stamp is already on the car and they just have to check it and sign I spoke to a few garages here on the South Coast and the response always tends to be "don't know anything about that, can't you ask someone else who does that sort of thing?". My nearest garage (10 minute walk away) at first said "can't you ask your local gar
  17. It's okay, chaps, all sorted. I cut a corner off the plastic cover then filled the hole with sealant and refitted to the gearbox. The clearance is fine now, similar or a bit more than shown in Peter Bell's photo
  18. Thanks for replies, chaps. It definitely doesn't fit properly, I had it on before, but it "knocks" against the tunnel side all the time. The tunnel is tapered and narrows at that point, causing the problem. I might just bite the bullet and start cutting that plastic cover down bit by bit and test fitting it to see how much I need to take off. It's reassuring to know that people have run it with no cover for years with no problem, that can be the last resort! I suppose a cover is a bit better than none, I can always try to plug the hole made in the plastic once I cut enough to stop th
  19. Hi, just a quick question about my Ford Type 9 gearbox. As you can see in the bottom left of the pic (not from my car), the clutch cable end is captured in the end of a lever which sticks diagonally out of the bottom of the box through a rectangular hole. Originally on the Sierra, the gearbox had a black plastic cover over that rectangular hole, with a bit of a "tube" to allow the cable into the cover. The gearbox is so close to the tunnel side in my car that the black plastic cover doesn't fully fit. If I'm going to use the cover, I'll have to cut it down then repair with another b
  20. For info, I spoke to a glass specialist and Rich Hall at GBS, in the end. The glass guy said he could cut, but there was a 50/50 chance of cracking it. Richard said it shouldn't be too hard to bend the ali frame, then if I made a wooden template for the glass and sent it to GBS, they'd send me a new pane to match. So my approach is to bend the frame and take the existing pane to the glass cutter. If he can cut without cracking it, result! If it does crack, I will have to go the wooden template route. For those who say "just fill the gap", "it's a lot of hassle to do that" etc,
  21. There's no "edit" option, I'm afraid! Some of my posts are over 10 years old, I think maybe with age I can no longer edit??
  22. Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I did have various ideas about "filling the gap". But my first preference is to adjust the frame and the glass - Anyone on here (Zero builders) got some ideas on that? Pete
  23. Hi, my windscreeen is quite old and was supplied by Robin Hood complete - You may not be surprised to learn that it doesn't quite fit! The curve of the scuttle and the curve of the windscreen bottom ali bracket are just a bit too different to cover with trim, so I think I need an adjustment! I would post a picture, but I seem to have used all my Rhocar attachment space and can't see how to remove anything.. Anyway, for those who have adjusted theirs, how did you bend the bottom bracket? It looks quite sturdy and I would be worried about cracking the ali if I need to apply serious for
  24. Great, thanks, Nicko and Nelmo. If I understand correctly, you cut the sides of the countersunk screws otherwise they wouldn't fit into the frame? And why use a hardboard screen? If you can take the glass out, can't you just drill into a bare frame? Cheers, Pete
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