AndyW

I've sent them on a PM. Good luck!

Oh dear! What readings did you get? You don’t need to take the engine out yet. On the T16 engine it’s fairly easy to undo the inlet and exhaust manifolds from the head intact, then able to take the cams and head off, leaving the block in the car. You can then see whether the problem is with the valves in the head or the pistons in the block. Been there, done that (twice now!) I’ve got Rover’s engine overhaul instructions if you need them.

Yes it does have a 10:1 ratio, but I've read that the compression on the T16 non-turbo engine should be around 170-180 psi. When I checked mine a couple of years ago I consistently got 240-250 psi, so don't know if my gauge was duff or what, although I did later find I had a lot of carbon build up. When you run the tests, clamp off the fuel hose or remove the fuel pump fuse, remove all 4 plugs, and crank with the throttle fully open until you get a stable reading. You're really looking for cylinders that are different from the others rather than absolute values.

Hi Ivan, according to my Rover T16 docs...

Also, don't drive the fan directly through the switch. Use a relay.

It's worth trying, but it might switch the fan at the wrong temperature. The Superspec radiator originally came from a Rover SD1 2L which was mounted horizontally, but in the Superspec it's vertical, albeit at an angle. That means in the Rover the thermostatic switch was at the top of the radiator in hot water. In the Spec it's going to be at the bottom where the cooler water exits.

Hi Daniel, you’re about an hour or so away from me in Bedford, so I’d be happy to drive over in my Superspec for you to look at. I’m free most daytimes so pm me if you want to make arrangements. The weather doesn’t look too good this coming week though.

And the cooling system diagram is here https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/47391-another-super-spec-cooling-question/&do=findComment&comment=391393

I fixed mine to the chassis tube on the right of the engine bay above the steering shaft on my Superspec. My bottle was a nice compact rectangular shape, not as large as yours though.

I'm not sure the part that Al has quoted is correct for the T-series engine, as that link is for the RR Evoque. I think it should be this one on the Rimmer page for the Rover 800 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID004682 Item no 4 on the diagram and in the list, p/n JZV1085 - Mounting-multi point injection throttle body flexible. But it's not a cheap bit of rubber!!

On my Superspec the fuel filter is a big metal canister mounted on the front of the pedal box. Not sure of its origins in the kit. And yes the pump is part of the level sensor in the Escort fuel tank

Try going for a short drive with MEMS logger running and make a note of the approx times into the journey when the misfire/hiccups occur. Then view the logfile in MEMSAnalyser to see if you can spot any anomalies on any sensors or graphs. When I want to mark events while driving, I'll dip the clutch and do a high rev throttle blip so I can later find the point in time on the rpm graph. Have you tried clearing the TPS fault code since you changed the TPS? Or does the error keep coming back after being cleared? If so try unplugging the TPS, spraying the terminals with contact cleaner, and replugging it a few times to clean the joints. One other thing, when the engine is switched off, MEMS needs to hold the voltage supply open for up to 30 seconds in order to reset the stepper motor to closed position and save learned values to memory. You say that when you turn off the key everything is dead - do you hear the stepper motor reset a few seconds after the engine stops? If not I suspect your battery isolation switch might be interfering with normal MEMS shutdown.

Check the cable and linkage on the throttle body, especially if you've been cleaning and playing around in that area. I had a similar high rpm problem that turned out to be the throttle cable not seated properly in the groove on the underside of the quadrant. My cable had a very small brass ferrule on the end, which had got lodged in the quadrant and was holding the cable off so the butterfly wouldn't shut properly. Also check that the butterfly is completely closed at idle and adjust the cable so there's just a touch of slack before the linkage moves. I found you only need a tiny amount of over-adjustment of the cable to slightly open the butterfly and increase the rpm.

My Superspec has got Gaz coilovers on the rear although they were already fitted when I got the car. So not sure if the previous owner modified the mounting. The bolt on the U bracket that goes through the dish of the trailing arm does sit at a very slight angle but this doesn’t seem to cause any problem. There’s a large 30mm washer under the Nyloc nut.

And as promised, this is the instrument panel wiring on my car. The wires in the Ford connectors were spliced to the Superspec loom as follows. White connector: 1 orange/blue to red - 12v from lights for panel illumination 2 purple/white to blue/white - main beam 3 black to black - earth for illumination 4 empty 5 black/yellow to black/yellow - brake warning 6 white/green to blue/green - temp sender 7 white to green/black - fuel sender 8 black to black - earth for fuel & temp gauges 9 empty 10 empty 11 empty 12 purple to green - 12v switched power for gauges Black or Blue connector: 1 black/red to black - earth for indicator warning 2 blue/yellow joined to green/red & green/white - indicator warning 3 empty 4 empty 5 empty 6 empty 7 blue to brown/yellow - alternator warning 8 black/green joined to both black - coil -ve and also white/black - ECU pin 25 9 white/green to black - earth for tacho 10 black/yellow to white/brown - oil pressure sender 11 empty 12 white/black to green - coil +ve Your wiring colours may be entirely different of course, but hope this helps track down your issue