AndyW

It’s not simply a case of only cutting pin 13. The EEPROM in the MEMS 1.6 ECU had to be reprogrammed first so it didn’t look for the security code signal coming from the 5AS immobiliser module fitted to Rover cars. This code was a fixed random number learned when MEMS and 5AS were first powered up together. Without the code MEMS would run the engine for a few seconds then kill it by turning off the fuel and spark. So if a different MEMS ECU was fitted it wouldn’t have the fix and would still be looking for the security signal. That maybe your situation. The pin was only cut internally afterwards to prevent inadvertent signals and accidental re-arming. I found this link to a chap who apparently can provide a module fitting service which overrides the immobiliser signal. Might be worth a contact? https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/mg-rover-land-rover-ecu-immobiliser-removal/

This company does very similar reversing and fog lights. https://www.classic-car-accessories.co.uk/collections/lights/products/cl056

If you've got a recent iPhone (don't know about Android phones) there is a method of using the built-in Shortcuts scripting app to set up a 'Resize Image' shortcut so you can do all this on your phone. You can set picture dimensions to say 640 pixel width or get it to ask each time, and get it to save the resized copy to the Recents photos album. Then select that reduced size photo for upload to the forum. Google for detailed instructions if you're not familiar with Shortcuts.

Welcome Michael to the world of Superspecs! There’s several owners (but not many builders) on the forum, so feel free to ask questions as you progress. My engine came without the Rover plate covering the spark plug valley, but I’ve never tried to replace it. I think it looks ok without, and less to remove when you change the plugs. 🙂 The nest of wires behind the dash is also typical of most Superspecs. The original part-Ford loom was too long so surplus loops of cable were often stuffed there. I spent a couple of weeks sorting mine out, identifying everything, removing unused wires and drawing up a wiring diagram. Has proved invaluable since. Andy

This is the RH supplied Rover column light switch if it matches yours? When you’ve checked all the fuses for the lights are ok, then check the wiring at this switch. No loom connector was supplied so you had to use small female connectors to wire directly to the exposed pins on the switch base. Mine were not very secure and on occasions came off or moved and touched each other. There are 2 groups of pins. On my car they were wired as follows: 3 pins for 12v power from flasher relay, to left & right indicators 6 pins for lights: 1: 12v for sides 2: to main beam 3: to sidelights 4 & 6: 12v for headlights 5: to dip beam Check yours are all intact.

In common uk wiring and the original part Ford loom supplied with the Superspec, blue/red is used for dipped beam, and blue/white for main beam, between the switch and the bulbs. But you said your front and rear side lights weren’t working. Those are a separate circuit to the headlights. They should be a solid colour red wire feeding all of those and the instrument illumination. Are you still using the original Rover column stalk switch for lighting?

If your car still has the original RH wiring loom, the side lights were all powered by a permanent live from the light stalk, which went to a 10a fuse and then out to all lights through red wires. Hopefully straight forward to track down.

Yes the injectors are 12v, powered through the MEMS ECU from its 12v relay supply. The ECU earths them to control the injector pulse length. So ECU gets 12v power to pin 28 (brown/pink) from ignition relay. Then I *think* it is passed inside the ECU to the injectors as a constant 12v but I'm not sure of the wiring connections or colours. The injector pulses are then controlled by the ECU earthing... Injector 1 to pin 24 (yellow/blue) Injector 2 to pin 23 (yellow/green) Injector 3 to pin 26 (yellow/white) Injector 4 to pin 1 (yellow/black) If you're only seeing 4.5v going to injectors then that doesn't seem right. 5v is what the ECU uses for the sensors. So have you got the correct wire? And did you have ignition turned on to power the relay to pin 28? Andy

It might be a bit late now you’ve started painting, but I had good results with Frosts Extreme Chassis Paint in satin black. I used it to brush paint my wishbones and hubs 3 years ago and still looks good now. I was put off using hammerite smooth as reviews suggested it chipped easily and came off in flakes.

That wouldn’t work as there is only one wire from the sender to the gauge. 🙂 There are 3 possible fixes mentioned in early forum posts: 1) rejig/bend the float arm so it operates on the other side of the sender, 2) invert the potentiometer on the sender so the float arm swipes the other way, or 3) unsolder the signal wire on the potentiometer and solder it onto the end of the coil.

When you replaced the fuel pump, was it just the pump, or did you replace the whole sender, float & pump? If it was the whole in-tank unit, then It’s likely your gauge is now reading back to front. As originally supplied the Superspec fuel gauge read in reverse - full when empty and vise versa. You had to swap the wires on the potentiometer to get the gauge to read correctly. Although there was an electronic Spiyda module you could buy to correct the calibration. Don’t know if the previous owner might have fitted one of those? It’s a bit difficult to tell from your photo, but the tank looks near empty to me. If it was 3/4 full you’d clearly see the petrol level a couple of inches from the top if you removed the sender unit. As Al says, you need to check your filler and vent pipes on the fuel tank and make sure there are no kinks or restrictions. I can fill my Superspec at pretty much normal speed, just have to slow down when it’s nearly full. I regularly put in 30-35litres and drive it for 200 plus miles until it gets down to a 1/4 again. The original tank takes 42 litres.

I had slow cranking on my Superspec with my original tired battery. It was helped by improving and cleaning all the earths. Best to have 3-way direct earth cables or straps - battery neg to starter mounting bolt, battery neg to chassis, and engine block to chassis.

And if he wants to look at lots of different kit cars, the Kit Car show is on at Malvern this weekend. Worth a look around if he can get to it.

Good news on the fuel pump. On my car, the tps wiring loom connector has: Term 1 (+) is the supply. yellow/purple goes to ECU pin 9. With ign on should be 5v Term 2 (o/p) is the wipe output signal. yellow/green goes to pin 8. With ign on and throttle closed should be 0.6v, throttle fully open should be 4.3v. Change should be progressive between. ECU idle position is determined by the 0.6v closed reading. Term 3 (-) is black/pink and goes to ECU sensors earth on pin 30 So your wiring seems ok. If you don’t get those voltages then the potentiometer may be suspect. My battery is a Varta C6 Silver 52Ah which is perfectly fine for cranking and starting. I had terrible hot cranking problems with my previous battery until I determined it was duff and replaced it.

The fuel pressure regulator on the end of the fuel rail operates at 2.3-3bar. If you remove the return hose from it, and turn the ignition on to get the initial 1 sec pump priming, then fuel should come out of the regulator (put a container underneath!). And definitely when you crank the engine. You should be able to hear the fuel pump whirring. If no whirr or no fuel comes out then the pump isn’t working. Make sure you tightly clamp the fuel hose afterwards. If you get fuel out ok, then remove spark plugs and crank again. You will get a strong smell of petrol if the injectors are working ok. However this all assumes your crank sensor is now working correctly.