AndyW

Yes I’ve read that Rover engines are particular about the type or make of lambda sensors. I put one of these in my Superspec last year. Seems to work well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143143384642

It sounds like you need to check your lambda sensor wiring. When using Al's MEMS logger, if you're not getting any output at all on the lambda plot, and the status drops to 0 after a minute or so, then the ECU isn't seeing the sensor. The voltage should start at 0.44 and then start cycling between 0.1 - 0.9 as it warms up. Even a duff O2 sensor usually gives some sort of output. When I first got my car the O2 sensor was wired incorrectly, and I've seen the same problem on many other Superspecs. Seems to be a common problem. This is the wiring from my car. You should check continuity to the ECU. Also, you could check you're using the right type of O2 sensor for the Rover T-series, as I believe some types don't work. Recommended is a NGK NTK OZA739-EE13 (96722) or the older OZA527-E9 (0498). Or a Bosch 0258003229. I've used both those NGK and Bosch sensors successfully, but I've also got another Ford one that won't give any output.

My car came to me without any wipers so I fitted mine from scratch. Bought stainless arms and matching 9 inch blades from Car Builder Solutions. The arms have a 5.8mm strip at the end which the blades slide and lock onto. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/stainless-steel-sprung-windscreen-wiper-blade-9

My seat bolts weren’t welded into the runners either. When I replaced the carpet on my Superspec I managed to undo the bolts with a combination of ring spanners and 1/4” drive thin walled sockets, while positioning the seats forwards and backwards to get at them. When I put the seats back in I used half height nuts to lock the bolts into the runners before I put the seats back in the car. Much easier to do the nuts up underneath single handed then.

Be good to hear if they stay shiny after you’ve driven the car again... whenever that will be!

Paint it black - the Stones

Hi Graeme, My exhaust headers have gone exactly the same as yours, and I've got a spare set that's also the same. I thought they were just mild steel, but was told by Richard Stewart himself that they are in fact stainless steel. I've found that the brown surface isn't really loose rust but more a discolouration, so I'm assuming they are some sort of ferritic stainless steel where it's the iron in the compound that is discoloring the surface. They are also slightly magnetic which confirms that. I don't really have any idea if it's possible to clean them up or get a shine back on them. I tried bluing remover and that didn't work, and a wire brush didn't do much other than remove some rust from the welds. I've covered my headers under the bonnet with exhaust wrap, so like you it's only the bit outside the body that's still showing. Let me know if you find a solution As to the twin tailpipes I just covered mine with two slip-on chrome pipe finishers.

I'm in as well please Peter.

I've sent them on a PM. Good luck!

Oh dear! What readings did you get? You don’t need to take the engine out yet. On the T16 engine it’s fairly easy to undo the inlet and exhaust manifolds from the head intact, then able to take the cams and head off, leaving the block in the car. You can then see whether the problem is with the valves in the head or the pistons in the block. Been there, done that (twice now!) I’ve got Rover’s engine overhaul instructions if you need them.

Yes it does have a 10:1 ratio, but I've read that the compression on the T16 non-turbo engine should be around 170-180 psi. When I checked mine a couple of years ago I consistently got 240-250 psi, so don't know if my gauge was duff or what, although I did later find I had a lot of carbon build up. When you run the tests, clamp off the fuel hose or remove the fuel pump fuse, remove all 4 plugs, and crank with the throttle fully open until you get a stable reading. You're really looking for cylinders that are different from the others rather than absolute values.

Hi Ivan, according to my Rover T16 docs...

Also, don't drive the fan directly through the switch. Use a relay.

It's worth trying, but it might switch the fan at the wrong temperature. The Superspec radiator originally came from a Rover SD1 2L which was mounted horizontally, but in the Superspec it's vertical, albeit at an angle. That means in the Rover the thermostatic switch was at the top of the radiator in hot water. In the Spec it's going to be at the bottom where the cooler water exits.

Hi Daniel, you’re about an hour or so away from me in Bedford, so I’d be happy to drive over in my Superspec for you to look at. I’m free most daytimes so pm me if you want to make arrangements. The weather doesn’t look too good this coming week though.