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AndyW

RHOCaR Member
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AndyW last won the day on December 22 2017

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About AndyW

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 07/28/1955

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    Robin Hood Super Spec, Rover 2L
  • Full name
    Andy Waller

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bedford

Contact Methods

  • E-mail
    andy@andywaller.me.uk

Recent Profile Visitors

8,775 profile views
  1. Hi Graeme, yes I fitted the Lucas wiper system a couple of years ago. Here's a photo of my setup taken from the passenger footwell. I mounted the motor on the inside of the firewall, and at an angle so that the bundy tube was lined up as much as possible with the wheel boxes.
  2. I don’t see how it would work without the bundy tubing. The tube provides the resistance and fixed distance to the wheel boxes for the motor to push and pull the cable through. Without it the motor would just straighten the arc of the cable and not move the wheel boxes. I have to admit I found it tricky to fit the bundy tubes. The lengths have to be correct and the ends of each section have to be flared to hold into the nut on the motor gearbox, and into the clamps on the wheel boxes. Curves have to be gentle and it’s easier if you bend the tube with the inner cable in place. And use lots of grease in the tube when you assemble it to reduce friction.
  3. My Superspec has the MT75 gearbox and a 3.92 diff. Seems to be the luck of the draw when the kit was bought as some other Specs came with the 3.62 diff. The 3.92 ratio does give better acceleration through the gears, although first gear is almost redundant. I often start off in 2nd. The downside is cruising on dual carriageways and motorways when it all gets a bit frenetic and buzzy with 70mph in 5th coming coming in around 3500rpm (speedo isn’t that accurate). We’ll certainly frenetic and noisy compared to cruising in my diesel car!
  4. Hi Graeme, I'm interested to know how long you've had your cover, and how it's standing up to wear. Like you, my car lives outside all year round. I've had 2 covers so far. First one from CBS lasted just over 2 years before it started ripping and letting water through the multi-layer fabric. Then I went for a Halfords cover which has lasted nearly 2 years so far, although the plasticised outer surface of the multi-layer fabric is starting to crack and perish, presumably from UV exposure and where I fix it to the car with bungy straps. It's still water tight, but I'm going to need a new one before winter. Both of those covers were mid-range £40-50, so I'm wondering if the more expensive covers would last longer? Anyone have any other recommendations?
  5. I’m pretty sure all Lucas 14W motors are interchangeable. The variations for manufacturers were 1 or 2 speed, sweep angle and length of tube and cable. Best to get a 2speed if you can. I don’t think you can tell the sweep angle from the outside as it’s marked on the gear under the cover SVC has lots of parts and some useful info at https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/wiper-systems/
  6. The Lucas 14W wiper motor was used on many British cars, so just find the cheapest you can. Parts are easy to get, and you can swap the gear wheel to change the sweep angle, or invert the wiper arm wheel boxes to change the handing. I fitted one on my Superspec. Can’t get out to measure it atm but I think my sweep angle is either 105 or 115 deg which is fine. But the gear wheel can be changed if you don’t like the sweep.
  7. You could try covering it with roll bar padding or sleeve.
  8. Ditto Richy. The paint on my roll bar was always chipping and flaking and looked a mess so I removed it all 2 years ago. Used a flapwheel in an angle grinder then finished off with satin wheels and scotchbrite pads to give a nice brushed finish. I've only had to go over it lightly once since to remove odd rust spots with a pad.
  9. Yes I’ve read that Rover engines are particular about the type or make of lambda sensors. I put one of these in my Superspec last year. Seems to work well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143143384642
  10. It sounds like you need to check your lambda sensor wiring. When using Al's MEMS logger, if you're not getting any output at all on the lambda plot, and the status drops to 0 after a minute or so, then the ECU isn't seeing the sensor. The voltage should start at 0.44 and then start cycling between 0.1 - 0.9 as it warms up. Even a duff O2 sensor usually gives some sort of output. When I first got my car the O2 sensor was wired incorrectly, and I've seen the same problem on many other Superspecs. Seems to be a common problem. This is the wiring from my car. You should check continuity to the ECU. Also, you could check you're using the right type of O2 sensor for the Rover T-series, as I believe some types don't work. Recommended is a NGK NTK OZA739-EE13 (96722) or the older OZA527-E9 (0498). Or a Bosch 0258003229. I've used both those NGK and Bosch sensors successfully, but I've also got another Ford one that won't give any output.
  11. My car came to me without any wipers so I fitted mine from scratch. Bought stainless arms and matching 9 inch blades from Car Builder Solutions. The arms have a 5.8mm strip at the end which the blades slide and lock onto. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/stainless-steel-sprung-windscreen-wiper-blade-9
  12. My seat bolts weren’t welded into the runners either. When I replaced the carpet on my Superspec I managed to undo the bolts with a combination of ring spanners and 1/4” drive thin walled sockets, while positioning the seats forwards and backwards to get at them. When I put the seats back in I used half height nuts to lock the bolts into the runners before I put the seats back in the car. Much easier to do the nuts up underneath single handed then.
  13. Be good to hear if they stay shiny after you’ve driven the car again... whenever that will be!
  14. Hi Graeme, My exhaust headers have gone exactly the same as yours, and I've got a spare set that's also the same. I thought they were just mild steel, but was told by Richard Stewart himself that they are in fact stainless steel. I've found that the brown surface isn't really loose rust but more a discolouration, so I'm assuming they are some sort of ferritic stainless steel where it's the iron in the compound that is discoloring the surface. They are also slightly magnetic which confirms that. I don't really have any idea if it's possible to clean them up or get a shine back on them. I tried bluing remover and that didn't work, and a wire brush didn't do much other than remove some rust from the welds. I've covered my headers under the bonnet with exhaust wrap, so like you it's only the bit outside the body that's still showing. Let me know if you find a solution As to the twin tailpipes I just covered mine with two slip-on chrome pipe finishers.
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